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Debbie starts with ...
Has anyone used fruit fly traps/lures with success? How well do they work? For example, if I buy a fig tree and put two fruit fly lures around the tree to trap the male fruit fly, will this protect my whole crop from being stung? Or do you think I will need to to use 2mm netting as well to stop fruit fly (as well as birds).
Just wondering how effectively these traps/lures work in controlling fruit fly!
Has anyone used fruit fly traps/lures with success? How well do they work? For example, if I buy a fig tree and put two fruit fly lures around the tree to trap the male fruit fly, will this protect my whole crop from being stung? Or do you think I will need to to use 2mm netting as well to stop fruit fly (as well as birds).
Just wondering how effectively these traps/lures work in controlling fruit fly!
Debbie
Ipswich
25th June 2007
Grant says...
Debbie.
From my understanding the fruit fly traps are purely a means of detecting wether you have fly around or not. The bait is a sex attractant to the male fly.You monitor the fly numbers by the amount of dead male fly near the trap.It is up to you to do the controlling.
You may have to keep the little guys off your fruit by netting or spraying .
Debbie.
From my understanding the fruit fly traps are purely a means of detecting wether you have fly around or not. The bait is a sex attractant to the male fly.You monitor the fly numbers by the amount of dead male fly near the trap.It is up to you to do the controlling.
You may have to keep the little guys off your fruit by netting or spraying .
Grant
Gympie
25th June 2007
Kath says...
We have been trialling the organic fruit fly product eco-naturalure here at the nursery with great success. It is an attractant and insecticide all in one. There is no need to spray it onto the fruits themselves meaning that your fruits will not have any sprays on them and they will be free of grubs. We spray the underside of the leaves on certain trees around the orchard once a week throughout the year. We enjoyed a bumper crop of feijoas last year which we felt was a good indication that the spray is working.
We have been trialling the organic fruit fly product eco-naturalure here at the nursery with great success. It is an attractant and insecticide all in one. There is no need to spray it onto the fruits themselves meaning that your fruits will not have any sprays on them and they will be free of grubs. We spray the underside of the leaves on certain trees around the orchard once a week throughout the year. We enjoyed a bumper crop of feijoas last year which we felt was a good indication that the spray is working.
Kath
Cawongle
26th June 2007
ben silver says...
Feijoas may not be a good test. fruit fly love golden delicious apples and late peaches such as "Golden queen". Professor of fruit fly biology at sydney university is rather dismissive of these lately developed sprays . If you are in an isolated area my experience is thAt male lures are sufficient for figs but not for the highly attractive fruits mentioned . Place male lures in an encircling pattern at say 20metres from fig in order to intercept males entering from periphery.
Feijoas may not be a good test. fruit fly love golden delicious apples and late peaches such as "Golden queen". Professor of fruit fly biology at sydney university is rather dismissive of these lately developed sprays . If you are in an isolated area my experience is thAt male lures are sufficient for figs but not for the highly attractive fruits mentioned . Place male lures in an encircling pattern at say 20metres from fig in order to intercept males entering from periphery.
ben silver
sydney
30th July 2007
Scott G says...
I have used 'Wild May' fruit fly bait to attract the males flies. The trap caught lots but my fruit was still infested. I had read that the male traps don't have much effect in an suburban area where fertilized female fruit flies can still find their way to your trees from neighboring properties.
I had a couple of attempts with vegemite & yeast etc. Those traps caught a few house flies but not much else.
The only thing that I have tried that was 100% successful was to cover the tree (approx' 2m tall by 2m wide) with a big mozzie net. Hand sown from the cheapest lace curtain fabric from a Spotlight store. I am not sure how many seasons the net will handle before deteriorating so much that it is unusable. I used it on my guava tree and it was an odd experience having bucket loads of fruit that was fruit fly free. It could even be accidentally left on the tree until it was overripe and nothing ate it.
Incidentally I have a small fig tree and it hasn't had a problem with fruit flies at all.
I have used 'Wild May' fruit fly bait to attract the males flies. The trap caught lots but my fruit was still infested. I had read that the male traps don't have much effect in an suburban area where fertilized female fruit flies can still find their way to your trees from neighboring properties.
I had a couple of attempts with vegemite & yeast etc. Those traps caught a few house flies but not much else.
The only thing that I have tried that was 100% successful was to cover the tree (approx' 2m tall by 2m wide) with a big mozzie net. Hand sown from the cheapest lace curtain fabric from a Spotlight store. I am not sure how many seasons the net will handle before deteriorating so much that it is unusable. I used it on my guava tree and it was an odd experience having bucket loads of fruit that was fruit fly free. It could even be accidentally left on the tree until it was overripe and nothing ate it.
Incidentally I have a small fig tree and it hasn't had a problem with fruit flies at all.
Scott G
Gold Coast
30th July 2007
ben silver
sydney
31st July 2007
Kath says...
I use wild may to monitor how active fruit flies are in my orchard. If I am catching 30 male flies in a week then I know that there are a lot of fruit flies in my orchard that will damage my precious fruits. Last year I protected my nectarines with exclusion bags from Green Harvest
www.greenharvest.com.au
These worked beautifully for me and I harvested my first crop of grub free nectarines as a result. Amazingly the birds did not eat any of the bagged fruits until they had eaten all the unbagged fruits first. I am not sure how good their memories are and whether or not they will realize that the best fruits are inside the bags this year.
I use wild may to monitor how active fruit flies are in my orchard. If I am catching 30 male flies in a week then I know that there are a lot of fruit flies in my orchard that will damage my precious fruits. Last year I protected my nectarines with exclusion bags from Green Harvest
www.greenharvest.com.au
These worked beautifully for me and I harvested my first crop of grub free nectarines as a result. Amazingly the birds did not eat any of the bagged fruits until they had eaten all the unbagged fruits first. I am not sure how good their memories are and whether or not they will realize that the best fruits are inside the bags this year.
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 | ||
Kath
Cawongla
1st August 2007
ben silver says...
The only qualitatively new male trap is smething called AMULET Cue lure. The makers claim that the insecticide fipronil has a delayed action so that females that mate with contaminated males get killed a lot of the time . It costs about $60 to find out if this is true. Incidently the substance Cue lure, if you can obtain it, is really cheap because only 1ml is used in a trap for the male fly Add 2ml of insecticide and total cost $1 tops . Plant a label on it and call it FlY RID and sell $13 a piece.
The only qualitatively new male trap is smething called AMULET Cue lure. The makers claim that the insecticide fipronil has a delayed action so that females that mate with contaminated males get killed a lot of the time . It costs about $60 to find out if this is true. Incidently the substance Cue lure, if you can obtain it, is really cheap because only 1ml is used in a trap for the male fly Add 2ml of insecticide and total cost $1 tops . Plant a label on it and call it FlY RID and sell $13 a piece.
ben silver
sydney
9th August 2007
brian says...
I recently read and ancient gasrden magazine where an old fellarecons that by putting bganana skins in the ground under fruit trees it will stop fruit fly strike, if im correct ,females lay their eggs in the ground and hatch out to meet the males so aybe something in this old wives tale, any one else heard of this. brian
I recently read and ancient gasrden magazine where an old fellarecons that by putting bganana skins in the ground under fruit trees it will stop fruit fly strike, if im correct ,females lay their eggs in the ground and hatch out to meet the males so aybe something in this old wives tale, any one else heard of this. brian
brian
newcastle
13th August 2007
Andy says...
I've done some work on Wild May, Naturalure, exclusion bags, other baits and traps. They all work but in different ways. Wild May, Amulet, cuelure in Dakpots, etc attract only the males. In low fruit fly population areas (e.g. inland with cold winters or in well-managed orchards) it is possible over the years to get rid of the females too. No males then no females. But this won't work in coastal regions with high fruit fly populations that move around a lot. Traps with vegemite, yeast etc are O.K. for a day or two and may trap females and males but the solution goes off and actually repels fruit flies and attracts blowflies. Adding preservative to the mixture tends to reduce the trap's efficacy. Exclusion bags and netting enclosures are great - time consuming, yes. As long as desperate birds (koels and rainbow lorikeets seem to be the worst) don't force there way in! Splash baits like Naturalure are good too. It's approved for organic control and is used all over the World now. However you must keep the applications up - like once a week and after rain - as it attracts flies into small orchards from a fair distance.
I've done some work on Wild May, Naturalure, exclusion bags, other baits and traps. They all work but in different ways. Wild May, Amulet, cuelure in Dakpots, etc attract only the males. In low fruit fly population areas (e.g. inland with cold winters or in well-managed orchards) it is possible over the years to get rid of the females too. No males then no females. But this won't work in coastal regions with high fruit fly populations that move around a lot. Traps with vegemite, yeast etc are O.K. for a day or two and may trap females and males but the solution goes off and actually repels fruit flies and attracts blowflies. Adding preservative to the mixture tends to reduce the trap's efficacy. Exclusion bags and netting enclosures are great - time consuming, yes. As long as desperate birds (koels and rainbow lorikeets seem to be the worst) don't force there way in! Splash baits like Naturalure are good too. It's approved for organic control and is used all over the World now. However you must keep the applications up - like once a week and after rain - as it attracts flies into small orchards from a fair distance.
Andy
Gosford
17th August 2007
Renato Morandini says...
re. fig tree fruits. I have a figtree that bears heavily every year but cannot taste any ripened -on -tree fruit because ,due to the humidity ???--,they ferment and go bad .
I live on the Gold Coast ,close to the salt water ,has anybody in similar location, got a variety of figtree that
doesnot suffer from this problem ?
re. fig tree fruits. I have a figtree that bears heavily every year but cannot taste any ripened -on -tree fruit because ,due to the humidity ???--,they ferment and go bad .
I live on the Gold Coast ,close to the salt water ,has anybody in similar location, got a variety of figtree that
doesnot suffer from this problem ?
Renato Morandini
gold coast
27th September 2007
Rev says...
im going to give some of these ideas a go - one more time
im using econature lure but with all the wild peaches out here its pushing the cart uphill
lebaycid works very well. but i dont like using it
ill try physical exclusion if that doesnt work all the trees will get the chop
qld fly is a menace compared to the medfly. if you get it in early it takes your chilli and tomato crop too
im going to give some of these ideas a go - one more time
im using econature lure but with all the wild peaches out here its pushing the cart uphill
lebaycid works very well. but i dont like using it
ill try physical exclusion if that doesnt work all the trees will get the chop
qld fly is a menace compared to the medfly. if you get it in early it takes your chilli and tomato crop too
Rev
Tabulam
19th November 2007
natasha compton says...
i have an apricot tree that has fruit fly i have tried different traps the most succsesful one that i have found is the 2 litter bottle trap with womans urine in is the best in half a day i had 20 fruit fly in it by the next morning i have about 50 fly i know it sounds strange but it really works
i have an apricot tree that has fruit fly i have tried different traps the most succsesful one that i have found is the 2 litter bottle trap with womans urine in is the best in half a day i had 20 fruit fly in it by the next morning i have about 50 fly i know it sounds strange but it really works
natasha compton
perth
24th November 2007
Julie says...
Scott, your 'mossie net' will last longer if you erect a frame made of 2" black polypipe, so the branches don't snag. Just take the net down when you have finished picking, and it should last quite a while. Two lengths in a sort of cross shape at the top (may have to tie with wire)should do the trick. Sorry I can't do a drawing - hope this is clear.
Scott, your 'mossie net' will last longer if you erect a frame made of 2" black polypipe, so the branches don't snag. Just take the net down when you have finished picking, and it should last quite a while. Two lengths in a sort of cross shape at the top (may have to tie with wire)should do the trick. Sorry I can't do a drawing - hope this is clear.
Julie
Roleystone WA
25th November 2007
natasha compton
perth
26th November 2007
Anonymous says...
well there was that post i saw about the place regarding increased attarcation to ammonia
and stale urine will break down to give of ammonia
So youd be dealing with the meditteranean fruit fly over there in WA as they successfully eradicated the qld fly few years back
having dealt with both, (and none in SA - what a dream!), i find the qld fly more pernicious
so glad we dont have the melon/papaya fly of asia or we could kiss goodbye to all curcurbits too
well there was that post i saw about the place regarding increased attarcation to ammonia
and stale urine will break down to give of ammonia
So youd be dealing with the meditteranean fruit fly over there in WA as they successfully eradicated the qld fly few years back
having dealt with both, (and none in SA - what a dream!), i find the qld fly more pernicious
so glad we dont have the melon/papaya fly of asia or we could kiss goodbye to all curcurbits too
Anonymous
27th November 2007
Andy
Gosford
27th November 2007
ben silver
Sydney
28th November 2007
Andy
Gosford
28th November 2007
Correy
Woolloongabba
28th November 2007
Andy says...
Correy
The previous picture shows some aluminium and mesh cages that house about 20,000 Queensland fruit flies in each. In the picture I have pears sitting on top of the cages to be infested with female fruit fly eggs. I then take the newly infested fruit off the cages and then treat them. The results are used to develop new quarantine treatments for exports to other countries and States. We are working on cold and heat treatments at the moment. I'm also looking at fruit fly trapping methods. The pictures show a NZ Lynfield trap (looks like a bucket), a Bugs for Bugs lure and an Amulet CL pad (cardboard). But there are many, many more types around.
Correy
The previous picture shows some aluminium and mesh cages that house about 20,000 Queensland fruit flies in each. In the picture I have pears sitting on top of the cages to be infested with female fruit fly eggs. I then take the newly infested fruit off the cages and then treat them. The results are used to develop new quarantine treatments for exports to other countries and States. We are working on cold and heat treatments at the moment. I'm also looking at fruit fly trapping methods. The pictures show a NZ Lynfield trap (looks like a bucket), a Bugs for Bugs lure and an Amulet CL pad (cardboard). But there are many, many more types around.
Andy
Gosford
28th November 2007
Andy
Gosford
28th November 2007
Correy
Woolloongabba, QLD
28th November 2007
bsilver
sydney
29th November 2007
Scott G says...
Thanks Julie, that is a good idea about the simple frame. I had been told a frame would increase the lifespan of nets but hadn’t gotten serious about making one because of how serious a structure I had pictured in my head.
Both nets have just finished duty stopping fruitfly and parrots/bats on the Nectarine and Peach. They worked very well but they got a tear or 2 from the thicker branch ends that poked out to the extreme of the dripline as a result of pruning. These trees filled the nets so inserting a frame wouldn’t really have held the net away from the tree much. But I will be covering the Guava in a month and I have pruned it smaller so a frame should be an advantage there. I also pruned it anticipating the net so that the tree will have a chance to grow some smaller, soft new shoots at the end of the pruned branches by the time the net goes on. Thus (I am hoping) this will stop the hard branch ends rubbing on the net. Another thing to consider is during the time the trees are growing fruit they grow a considerable amount of new foliage and in the case of the Nectarine and Peach this was about 40cm in every direction. This extra growth had the advantage of holding the net off the fruit so it was less attractive to all the things that wanted a nibble.
I will strongly consider a polypipe frame.
One net (made from curtain lace) had been used last season on the guava and it is showing signs of weakening due to exposure.
The net on the Peach tree didn’t stop an infestation of Rutherglen bugs. The were small enough to get through it.
Below is a picture of one of the 2 nets my girlfriend made. This one is from heavily discounted curtain lace bought at Spotlight. The other is from mosquito netting. Both cost about $2 or $3 per metre and each net used 10m so $20-$30 per net. They are basically cut and sewn into a cube with the bottom missing. The dimensions were dictated by the width of the roll of the fabric (about 2m). The fabric was also chosen to let the maximum light through. The net shown has about 4 bricks on the ground holding it down. Completely sealing the net to the ground doesn’t appear too necessary as long as the gap isn’t too big (perhaps 50mm??) The other net on the peach was tied and pegged together around the trunk.
Thanks Julie, that is a good idea about the simple frame. I had been told a frame would increase the lifespan of nets but hadn’t gotten serious about making one because of how serious a structure I had pictured in my head.
Both nets have just finished duty stopping fruitfly and parrots/bats on the Nectarine and Peach. They worked very well but they got a tear or 2 from the thicker branch ends that poked out to the extreme of the dripline as a result of pruning. These trees filled the nets so inserting a frame wouldn’t really have held the net away from the tree much. But I will be covering the Guava in a month and I have pruned it smaller so a frame should be an advantage there. I also pruned it anticipating the net so that the tree will have a chance to grow some smaller, soft new shoots at the end of the pruned branches by the time the net goes on. Thus (I am hoping) this will stop the hard branch ends rubbing on the net. Another thing to consider is during the time the trees are growing fruit they grow a considerable amount of new foliage and in the case of the Nectarine and Peach this was about 40cm in every direction. This extra growth had the advantage of holding the net off the fruit so it was less attractive to all the things that wanted a nibble.
I will strongly consider a polypipe frame.
One net (made from curtain lace) had been used last season on the guava and it is showing signs of weakening due to exposure.
The net on the Peach tree didn’t stop an infestation of Rutherglen bugs. The were small enough to get through it.
Below is a picture of one of the 2 nets my girlfriend made. This one is from heavily discounted curtain lace bought at Spotlight. The other is from mosquito netting. Both cost about $2 or $3 per metre and each net used 10m so $20-$30 per net. They are basically cut and sewn into a cube with the bottom missing. The dimensions were dictated by the width of the roll of the fabric (about 2m). The fabric was also chosen to let the maximum light through. The net shown has about 4 bricks on the ground holding it down. Completely sealing the net to the ground doesn’t appear too necessary as long as the gap isn’t too big (perhaps 50mm??) The other net on the peach was tied and pegged together around the trunk.
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 | ||
Scott G
Gold Coast
29th November 2007
Rod Browne says...
I have been using eco-naturalure since flower drop . I have been putting it on a piece of plastic coated board about one metre square , which I first hung on the 6 foot galvabond fence directly behind the tree , about 1 metre away from the tree , then hung it inside the tree. This was one method suggested somewhere in the instruction.Some fruit is beginning to drop from the tree and all are infected with fruit fly (I think) grubs.
The fruit on the tree seems to be Ok , I cut a couple and found no grubs. The fruit is hard and very red , and nice and perfumed ,but not ripe . I would like to ripen the fruit on the tree , but think I may pick the fruit and let it ripen inside , in case the fruit is being stung as it ripens
any comments please
Rod
I have been using eco-naturalure since flower drop . I have been putting it on a piece of plastic coated board about one metre square , which I first hung on the 6 foot galvabond fence directly behind the tree , about 1 metre away from the tree , then hung it inside the tree. This was one method suggested somewhere in the instruction.Some fruit is beginning to drop from the tree and all are infected with fruit fly (I think) grubs.
The fruit on the tree seems to be Ok , I cut a couple and found no grubs. The fruit is hard and very red , and nice and perfumed ,but not ripe . I would like to ripen the fruit on the tree , but think I may pick the fruit and let it ripen inside , in case the fruit is being stung as it ripens
any comments please
Rod
Rod Browne
Greystanes
3rd December 2007
Julie says...
Rod,fruit fly sting when the fruit is still green. If it has been stung, bringing it inside won't make any difference - it will still develop.
I knew an orchardist who picked fruit before it was ripe, put in the coolroom for two weeks, then brought it out to ripen. I had no success with this - as soon as the fruit was warm again the maggots developed. I now use recycled mushroom bags on my peaches - it's a bit fiddly, but I get to eat ripe(organically-grown) fruit.
Plums I lose to birds (rubber snakes on a few branches, moved every few days helps) and apricots I make into delicious jam when they are under-ripe.I could avoid all this if I used Lebaycid, but don't fancy it.
My current strategy is to grow fruit in bonsai bags to keep them small.I then plan to mossie net the whole area (with a polypipe frame) which won't be too large. That's the plan, anyway!
Rod,fruit fly sting when the fruit is still green. If it has been stung, bringing it inside won't make any difference - it will still develop.
I knew an orchardist who picked fruit before it was ripe, put in the coolroom for two weeks, then brought it out to ripen. I had no success with this - as soon as the fruit was warm again the maggots developed. I now use recycled mushroom bags on my peaches - it's a bit fiddly, but I get to eat ripe(organically-grown) fruit.
Plums I lose to birds (rubber snakes on a few branches, moved every few days helps) and apricots I make into delicious jam when they are under-ripe.I could avoid all this if I used Lebaycid, but don't fancy it.
My current strategy is to grow fruit in bonsai bags to keep them small.I then plan to mossie net the whole area (with a polypipe frame) which won't be too large. That's the plan, anyway!
Julie
Roleystone WA
31st December 2007
Patricia says...
Is it true f.fly live in the ground from one season to next. If so can we kill them at his stage. We have only one tree but we have harvested about six large chaff bags of apricots which have all gone to the dump, we have sprayed and used baits and have managed to enjoy about 20 apricots. Over the last 15 years we have tried every method and spray on (and off) the market. We only have two options left - the chain saw or a net.
Is it true f.fly live in the ground from one season to next. If so can we kill them at his stage. We have only one tree but we have harvested about six large chaff bags of apricots which have all gone to the dump, we have sprayed and used baits and have managed to enjoy about 20 apricots. Over the last 15 years we have tried every method and spray on (and off) the market. We only have two options left - the chain saw or a net.
Patricia
Mudgee
3rd January 2008
Rod Browne says...
The last two years have been a total loss
In 2004 we got a good crop of well flavoured fruit
As I said I used naturelure this year and had a very minor success , after fairly consistant application . not worth the cost
maybe too much contamination in my area
Will look at leybacid next year ,
or maybe give the mossie net ( I assume it is cotton and you get this from from spotlight )a try as we only have a small tree
The last two years have been a total loss
In 2004 we got a good crop of well flavoured fruit
As I said I used naturelure this year and had a very minor success , after fairly consistant application . not worth the cost
maybe too much contamination in my area
Will look at leybacid next year ,
or maybe give the mossie net ( I assume it is cotton and you get this from from spotlight )a try as we only have a small tree
Rod Browne
Greystanes
3rd January 2008
Andy says...
Patricia, generally fruit flies over winter as adults in the orchards and nearby non-deciduous trees and shrubs. But some pupae survive in the ground if the chooks, other birds, earwigs, cultivation, etc don't destroy them. Also some of those pupae will be infested themselves with parasitic wasps. Early season approaches against fruit flies help reduce the initial spring population - traps, bait sprays like Naturalure are good - but must be applied from August / September onwards. Well before fruit set and ripening. Netting sounds good. Best lof luck!
Patricia, generally fruit flies over winter as adults in the orchards and nearby non-deciduous trees and shrubs. But some pupae survive in the ground if the chooks, other birds, earwigs, cultivation, etc don't destroy them. Also some of those pupae will be infested themselves with parasitic wasps. Early season approaches against fruit flies help reduce the initial spring population - traps, bait sprays like Naturalure are good - but must be applied from August / September onwards. Well before fruit set and ripening. Netting sounds good. Best lof luck!
Andy
Gosford
3rd January 2008
Anonymous
3rd January 2008
Bsilver
sydney
3rd January 2008
Rod Browne says...
I have just got a publication recommending a new fruit fly control by Yates
It attracts the fly and then kills it
went to the yates site for more info
http://www.yates.com.au/Products/PestControl/InsectsConcentrates/NaturesWayFruitFlyControl.asp
maybe worth a try , works on same principal as Success , which works for me on other pests
I have just got a publication recommending a new fruit fly control by Yates
It attracts the fly and then kills it
went to the yates site for more info
http://www.yates.com.au/Products/PestControl/InsectsConcentrates/NaturesWayFruitFlyControl.asp
maybe worth a try , works on same principal as Success , which works for me on other pests
Rod Browne
Greystanes
6th January 2008
Julie
Roleystone WA
10th January 2008
TJ says...
I started applying Eco-naturalure (same as Yates but cheaper) to 1m square area of milk/juice bottles with the side cut out on posts – 1 per fruit tree – on 2/10/07. Peaches that were ripe by early Dec had hardly any fruit fly – but peaches and tomatoes that are ripe now are full of fruit fly. All infected fruit has been placed in a sealed bin full to the top with water (seemed to drown them all last year).VERY DISAPPOINTED. Think the sun, wind and heat has dried the Eco-naturalure out too quick. Have been told would be better applied to a more porous surface and placed in the shade eg pieces of wood in the tree etc. Found sooty mould developed easy – so would be wary about spraying it in the same place on the actual tree repeatedly.
Recently given a recipe from an older fellow who lived near a commercial orchard. Apparently he didn’t have any fruit fly problems, but the orchard always did. Vegemite and malathion mixed into a thick paste and painted on boards in or near the fruit trees/garden. He also hung bottles with holes cut in the side of them containing about 2 inchs of the following mix: 1 tbl sp cloudy ammonia, 1 tbl sp vanialla ess, ½ cup brown sugar, 1 litre water. He spooned the dead fruit fly out and topped up the liquid regularly.
Have just covered the capsicum plants with frost guard white fabric (<$3m at Mitre 10) over a frame made from poly pipe. Am also going to try covering the tomato plants that have just started flowering with mozzie net, curtaining, tuille or whatever I can get cheap. Will probably put some Eco-Naturalure on something protected by sun and wind a bit - if I think of something as veg garden completely exposed.
Last year I tried a PestGuard bag from Green Harvest, but found it was ripped etc by the wind before the fruit was ripe. Another prob with these is because you can’t see through them you have to keep undoing to check if fruit is ripe.
Any thoughts?
I started applying Eco-naturalure (same as Yates but cheaper) to 1m square area of milk/juice bottles with the side cut out on posts – 1 per fruit tree – on 2/10/07. Peaches that were ripe by early Dec had hardly any fruit fly – but peaches and tomatoes that are ripe now are full of fruit fly. All infected fruit has been placed in a sealed bin full to the top with water (seemed to drown them all last year).VERY DISAPPOINTED. Think the sun, wind and heat has dried the Eco-naturalure out too quick. Have been told would be better applied to a more porous surface and placed in the shade eg pieces of wood in the tree etc. Found sooty mould developed easy – so would be wary about spraying it in the same place on the actual tree repeatedly.
Recently given a recipe from an older fellow who lived near a commercial orchard. Apparently he didn’t have any fruit fly problems, but the orchard always did. Vegemite and malathion mixed into a thick paste and painted on boards in or near the fruit trees/garden. He also hung bottles with holes cut in the side of them containing about 2 inchs of the following mix: 1 tbl sp cloudy ammonia, 1 tbl sp vanialla ess, ½ cup brown sugar, 1 litre water. He spooned the dead fruit fly out and topped up the liquid regularly.
Have just covered the capsicum plants with frost guard white fabric (<$3m at Mitre 10) over a frame made from poly pipe. Am also going to try covering the tomato plants that have just started flowering with mozzie net, curtaining, tuille or whatever I can get cheap. Will probably put some Eco-Naturalure on something protected by sun and wind a bit - if I think of something as veg garden completely exposed.
Last year I tried a PestGuard bag from Green Harvest, but found it was ripped etc by the wind before the fruit was ripe. Another prob with these is because you can’t see through them you have to keep undoing to check if fruit is ripe.
Any thoughts?
TJ
Dubbo NSW
13th January 2008
Anonymous says...
i used Eco naturelure from flower drop
on my 2007 necterine and peach tree
crop
it certainly is an attractant lost the
entire crop of both trees to fruit fly
have also lost the plums which split
with the heavy consistant recent rains
no luck here maybe the citrus trees
will come good later on. also tried
pest bags from green harvest in 2006
but they offer no protection against
strong winds or the parrots and bats
who know when the fruit is ready
before i do . however had my first
grapes from the vines planted 18mths
ago so all is not lost after all.
i used Eco naturelure from flower drop
on my 2007 necterine and peach tree
crop
it certainly is an attractant lost the
entire crop of both trees to fruit fly
have also lost the plums which split
with the heavy consistant recent rains
no luck here maybe the citrus trees
will come good later on. also tried
pest bags from green harvest in 2006
but they offer no protection against
strong winds or the parrots and bats
who know when the fruit is ready
before i do . however had my first
grapes from the vines planted 18mths
ago so all is not lost after all.
Anonymous
bilambil hgts
17th January 2008
Bsilver
sydney
2nd February 2008
Julie
Roleystone WA
11th February 2008
bsilver
12th February 2008
mal says...
we have a neighbour, old lady with ten peach trees and she never does anything with them, so fruit fly is rampant here. swarms.
i grow lots of different chilli's, and all get stung, but the rocoto gets stung say 50 times on every single fruit? you can have a big fat tomato right beside the rocoto and it won't get stung at all. and the grubs never develop. best thing yet.
rocotillo a long second, then other chillis bout the same as tomato.
just like a vacuum cleaner for fruit fly.
we have a neighbour, old lady with ten peach trees and she never does anything with them, so fruit fly is rampant here. swarms.
i grow lots of different chilli's, and all get stung, but the rocoto gets stung say 50 times on every single fruit? you can have a big fat tomato right beside the rocoto and it won't get stung at all. and the grubs never develop. best thing yet.
rocotillo a long second, then other chillis bout the same as tomato.
just like a vacuum cleaner for fruit fly.
mal
toowoomba
12th February 2008
Scott G
The Gold Coast
12th February 2008
Andy says...
Trap crops or refuge crops (e.g. the old fashioned castor oil plant acts as a refuge for Melon fly in Hawaii and can be sprayed with baits to get rid of flies out of adjacent melon crops) have been looked at overseas with varying success. If the fly larvae escape from the chillies and pupate in the soil then there will be more flies coming out for future infestations. If the new come out after the tomato crop is finished - OK - but next season (or next crop) they'll be there if the winter doesn't kill them.
The gourds and luffas may be attracting another fruit fly species, the Cucumber fly, which has a yellow spot in the middle of its back (which the Qld fruit fly doesn't have).
Trap crops or refuge crops (e.g. the old fashioned castor oil plant acts as a refuge for Melon fly in Hawaii and can be sprayed with baits to get rid of flies out of adjacent melon crops) have been looked at overseas with varying success. If the fly larvae escape from the chillies and pupate in the soil then there will be more flies coming out for future infestations. If the new come out after the tomato crop is finished - OK - but next season (or next crop) they'll be there if the winter doesn't kill them.
The gourds and luffas may be attracting another fruit fly species, the Cucumber fly, which has a yellow spot in the middle of its back (which the Qld fruit fly doesn't have).
Andy
Gosford
14th February 2008
Bsilver
sydney
15th February 2008
Scott G says...
Andy: Thanks for telling me about the Cucumber Fly. I will try to determine what I have in my garden.
I got some info from QLD DPI about the Melon Fly (Cucumber Fly). They are concerned about it getting established in Australia and so want to be notified if it is seen.
They list the visible differences between Melon Fly and QLD Fruit Fly as follows.
The distinctive features of melon fly include:
- a yellow stripe in the middle of the thorax between the wings
- a black (often incomplete) T-shaped marking on the abdomen (the rear body section)
- additional dark patches towards the outer edge of the wings
Andy: Thanks for telling me about the Cucumber Fly. I will try to determine what I have in my garden.
I got some info from QLD DPI about the Melon Fly (Cucumber Fly). They are concerned about it getting established in Australia and so want to be notified if it is seen.
They list the visible differences between Melon Fly and QLD Fruit Fly as follows.
The distinctive features of melon fly include:
- a yellow stripe in the middle of the thorax between the wings
- a black (often incomplete) T-shaped marking on the abdomen (the rear body section)
- additional dark patches towards the outer edge of the wings
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 | ||
Scott G
The Gold Coast
18th February 2008
Julie says...
The idea of using organic insecticides is that they kill/repel the insect but have been broken down by the time you eat the fruit, so you are not eating poisons.
It's a bit of a drawback in some ways, because you have to keep reapplying them. Don't know of any systemic ones apart from Neem oil which is supposed to act systemically.
The idea of using organic insecticides is that they kill/repel the insect but have been broken down by the time you eat the fruit, so you are not eating poisons.
It's a bit of a drawback in some ways, because you have to keep reapplying them. Don't know of any systemic ones apart from Neem oil which is supposed to act systemically.
Julie
Roleystone WA
21st February 2008
Scott G says...
It seems I got the Cucumber Fly mixed up With the Melon Fly (I suppose that's the problem with 'common' names)
Andy: I have identified the insect I saw today on a Luffa. It is a Cucumber fly (Dacus Cucumis). It is native to Australia. DPI Page: www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5368.html
I had no idea there was another insect so similar to QLD Fruit Fly around here. I wonder how many times I have misidentified them.
It seems I got the Cucumber Fly mixed up With the Melon Fly (I suppose that's the problem with 'common' names)
Andy: I have identified the insect I saw today on a Luffa. It is a Cucumber fly (Dacus Cucumis). It is native to Australia. DPI Page: www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5368.html
I had no idea there was another insect so similar to QLD Fruit Fly around here. I wonder how many times I have misidentified them.
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 | ||
Scott G
The Gold Coast
22nd February 2008
Andy says...
Hi Everyone
I'm now with the UN in Vienna working on suppressing fruit flies in Member States so they have more fruit and vegetables for themselves and for exort.
Scott G - yes the cucumber fly is a pest of melons, zucchinis, etc from the far North Coast of NSW and into SE Qld. There's no traps like dak Pots, etc able to attract them so you often don't know they are around until you see the maggots in the fruit. Traps with vegemite (or other protein based stuff -like beer or ammoniated liquids like cloudy ammonia) will attract some (but also a lot of other insects so can get messy). Bait sprays applied early will help unless the fly population is too large.
Mal: sometimes fruit can withstand fly strike because the skin is too slippery for the flies to puncture. Maybe your flies preferred the softer skins of the chillies to the fat shiny tomato. Cherry tomatoes are generally resistant to fruit flies for this reason (but can get stung if they dry out and shrivell slightly or start to split or if they get damaged by bird pecks, etc).
Best of luck everyone.
Hi Everyone
I'm now with the UN in Vienna working on suppressing fruit flies in Member States so they have more fruit and vegetables for themselves and for exort.
Scott G - yes the cucumber fly is a pest of melons, zucchinis, etc from the far North Coast of NSW and into SE Qld. There's no traps like dak Pots, etc able to attract them so you often don't know they are around until you see the maggots in the fruit. Traps with vegemite (or other protein based stuff -like beer or ammoniated liquids like cloudy ammonia) will attract some (but also a lot of other insects so can get messy). Bait sprays applied early will help unless the fly population is too large.
Mal: sometimes fruit can withstand fly strike because the skin is too slippery for the flies to puncture. Maybe your flies preferred the softer skins of the chillies to the fat shiny tomato. Cherry tomatoes are generally resistant to fruit flies for this reason (but can get stung if they dry out and shrivell slightly or start to split or if they get damaged by bird pecks, etc).
Best of luck everyone.
Andy
Gosford
23rd July 2008
Anonymous
Sydney
23rd July 2008
John
Perth
29th July 2008
Anonymous
31st July 2008
Anonymous
16th August 2008
Scott G
The Gold Coast
17th August 2008
TJ says...
Big W have an actually mozzie net ready to hang from a hook on ceiling above a bed. Just bought one for $10. Hoping will cover one tree. If not will cut up and use the netting of it. Think the quantity of netting in it would be cheaper than buying off the roll at Spotlight.
The curtain remnant basket at Spotlight is a good place to look to - often only about $1.50 a metre.
Has anyone had problems with fruit fly getting in a netted tree when picking ripe fruit etc. Wondering if better to net sections of a tree or individual branches/fruit???
Also has anyone heard of "solarising" - apparently some put black plastic on ground under fruit trees to kill last seasons fruit fly still in the ground??? Does anyone know anything about this??????
Big W have an actually mozzie net ready to hang from a hook on ceiling above a bed. Just bought one for $10. Hoping will cover one tree. If not will cut up and use the netting of it. Think the quantity of netting in it would be cheaper than buying off the roll at Spotlight.
The curtain remnant basket at Spotlight is a good place to look to - often only about $1.50 a metre.
Has anyone had problems with fruit fly getting in a netted tree when picking ripe fruit etc. Wondering if better to net sections of a tree or individual branches/fruit???
Also has anyone heard of "solarising" - apparently some put black plastic on ground under fruit trees to kill last seasons fruit fly still in the ground??? Does anyone know anything about this??????
TJ
Dubbo
16th September 2008
Kath says...
Just a note on the solarising, doing this under your fruit tree will also risk killing the roots of your tree, it is much better to maintain high levels of hygiene in your orchard. Pick up and dispose of all fallen fruit, do not leave it under your trees. Make sure all netting it stretched tightly and if covering the whole tree it will need to be pegged down. Loose nets can catch and kill, birds, bats and lizards. Green harvest has a range of pest exclusion bags that you can have a look at and then design your own to suit your tree.
www.greenharvest.com.au
Just a note on the solarising, doing this under your fruit tree will also risk killing the roots of your tree, it is much better to maintain high levels of hygiene in your orchard. Pick up and dispose of all fallen fruit, do not leave it under your trees. Make sure all netting it stretched tightly and if covering the whole tree it will need to be pegged down. Loose nets can catch and kill, birds, bats and lizards. Green harvest has a range of pest exclusion bags that you can have a look at and then design your own to suit your tree.
www.greenharvest.com.au
Kath
Cawongla
16th September 2008
Scott G says...
I have had no problems with fruitfly getting past my nets even when the nets weren't completely sealing the tree near the ground.
I havent had any thing get by the net while I was picking. I just get under the net with the tree and pick the fruit off into a big bowl. It's too tricky to get the nets on and off the trees.
I hold my nets down with a few bricks. On top of what Kath said they need to be held down well to stop them blowing away in strong wind.
That Mozzie net at BigW is the cheapest I have heard of them selling for. That would be cheaper than making them from 10m of spotight fabric.
Trying to kill fruitfly in the ground would only be of help if they were the only source of fruitfly in your area. Otherwise you would still get fruitfly from your neighbours' trees.
I have had no problems with fruitfly getting past my nets even when the nets weren't completely sealing the tree near the ground.
I havent had any thing get by the net while I was picking. I just get under the net with the tree and pick the fruit off into a big bowl. It's too tricky to get the nets on and off the trees.
I hold my nets down with a few bricks. On top of what Kath said they need to be held down well to stop them blowing away in strong wind.
That Mozzie net at BigW is the cheapest I have heard of them selling for. That would be cheaper than making them from 10m of spotight fabric.
Trying to kill fruitfly in the ground would only be of help if they were the only source of fruitfly in your area. Otherwise you would still get fruitfly from your neighbours' trees.
Scott G
The Gold Coast
17th September 2008
Anonymous
18th September 2008
Scott G
The Gold Coast
18th September 2008
Kath
Cawongla
18th September 2008
GVV
Maryborough
30th September 2008
Scott G
The Gold Coast
1st October 2008
GVV says...
Scott
Can't remember the web address but her email address is angelina@mostique.com.au.
I have just ordered another roll 200m x 6m as some of my trees are quite large. On the first order I had it in 6 days as I needed to get the trees covered as some had fruit set.
When calculating out, including sea freight from China, it is cheaper than what I bought in Big W. Also buying in a 4 or 6 m wide roll it is less hassle on larger trees.
Quality is very good
Obviously if it is airfreighted the cost is higher.
Scott
Can't remember the web address but her email address is angelina@mostique.com.au.
I have just ordered another roll 200m x 6m as some of my trees are quite large. On the first order I had it in 6 days as I needed to get the trees covered as some had fruit set.
When calculating out, including sea freight from China, it is cheaper than what I bought in Big W. Also buying in a 4 or 6 m wide roll it is less hassle on larger trees.
Quality is very good
Obviously if it is airfreighted the cost is higher.
GVV
Maryborough
1st October 2008
TJ says...
Thanks for info on solarising - confirmed my thoughts that might be damaging to the trees. Have been trying to pick up any fruit in previous seasons and drowning them. How long do they survive in the ground for as this is only our 3rd season here?
Was worried that any might come up from the ground under the tree and straight into the netted tree.
GVV - would love some pictures of your frames and netted trees.
Does colour of netting make any difference to fruit fly and bats? White netting seems to deter birds much better than black - currently trialing pink and purple.
Thanks for info on solarising - confirmed my thoughts that might be damaging to the trees. Have been trying to pick up any fruit in previous seasons and drowning them. How long do they survive in the ground for as this is only our 3rd season here?
Was worried that any might come up from the ground under the tree and straight into the netted tree.
GVV - would love some pictures of your frames and netted trees.
Does colour of netting make any difference to fruit fly and bats? White netting seems to deter birds much better than black - currently trialing pink and purple.
TJ
Dubbo
2nd October 2008
Shaz says...
Love this forum. Thank you so much. Talking about netting I am thinking about netting the fruit trees on the new property that we have just moved into and am quite interested in how the crop nets are used. we have just moved back from WA and in Carnarvon they use crop nets over most of their orchards, mainly for wind, but my thoughts are that it could also exclude fruit fly and birds from attacking the fruit. Do you think this would work? They usually use shade cloth so a nice light coloured shade cloth could work just as well as a mozzie net couldn't it?
Love this forum. Thank you so much. Talking about netting I am thinking about netting the fruit trees on the new property that we have just moved into and am quite interested in how the crop nets are used. we have just moved back from WA and in Carnarvon they use crop nets over most of their orchards, mainly for wind, but my thoughts are that it could also exclude fruit fly and birds from attacking the fruit. Do you think this would work? They usually use shade cloth so a nice light coloured shade cloth could work just as well as a mozzie net couldn't it?
Shaz
Atherton Nth Qld
4th October 2008
GVV says...
TJ
I work in India and will not be back home on R&R until 28 Oct. Will talk soon after then and can show you my framing. It is quite easy to put them up. I use 1/2 inch electrical conduit each 4m in length. Each one has a female end so very easy to join. Also easy to cut with a hacksaw. Depending on the size of the tree governs how long one hoop is. I put two hoops to each tree and use an electrical tie to hold them fast at the top.I drive 4x1/2m lengths of reinforcing steel into the ground on a slight angle and the conduit goes down over the steel peg.
The cost of one length of conduit is expensive but I bought 100 lengths and it worked out at a 60% reduction.
I keep around the base of the trees clean and put all the cuttings from the grass around them. I am always careful not to let the green grass lay up against the tree trunk.
My netting is blue and I have just ordered a black roll.
Will speak again to you at the end of the month
Cheers
PS I know I will have a good crop this year
TJ
I work in India and will not be back home on R&R until 28 Oct. Will talk soon after then and can show you my framing. It is quite easy to put them up. I use 1/2 inch electrical conduit each 4m in length. Each one has a female end so very easy to join. Also easy to cut with a hacksaw. Depending on the size of the tree governs how long one hoop is. I put two hoops to each tree and use an electrical tie to hold them fast at the top.I drive 4x1/2m lengths of reinforcing steel into the ground on a slight angle and the conduit goes down over the steel peg.
The cost of one length of conduit is expensive but I bought 100 lengths and it worked out at a 60% reduction.
I keep around the base of the trees clean and put all the cuttings from the grass around them. I am always careful not to let the green grass lay up against the tree trunk.
My netting is blue and I have just ordered a black roll.
Will speak again to you at the end of the month
Cheers
PS I know I will have a good crop this year
GVV
Maryborough
5th October 2008
anonymous says...
Si
It looks as if there is no alternative to netting my 125 fig trees.
The F.Fly was bad last year despite using naturalure.
What is the verdict on colour?
I just priced the stiff netting from spotlight - $1.99/m but only 1.35m wide. would have to sew together.
Plan to put in 4 star pickets topped with 2 lengths of corner to corner poly pipe.
Has anyone tried that?
great forum.
cheers
Si
It looks as if there is no alternative to netting my 125 fig trees.
The F.Fly was bad last year despite using naturalure.
What is the verdict on colour?
I just priced the stiff netting from spotlight - $1.99/m but only 1.35m wide. would have to sew together.
Plan to put in 4 star pickets topped with 2 lengths of corner to corner poly pipe.
Has anyone tried that?
great forum.
cheers
anonymous
10th October 2008