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soil toxins

    23 responses

joy starts with ...
A while back some people were concerned about organochlorines (termite sprays) used in the past contaminating food grown in such soil. April 2011 0f Organic Gardening which I happened to come upon ,states that fruit trees are safe from contamination but root crops are not --which makes sense.It seems unlikely that an alien substance such as an organochlorine would be transported by plant vasculature and be deposited in fruit whereas in root crops there would be simple diffusion into the growing tissue.
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joy4
katherine
12th May 2012 4:43pm
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MaryT says...
Thanks for the science, joy but I guess some of us would still be wary about growing food of any kind in contaminated soil. I wonder, if a root crop can absorb contaminants, can a super crop be developed to take out the toxins? What methods do they use now to de-contaminate the soil?
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MaryT
Sydney
13th May 2012 6:57am
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Brendan says...
Hi joy & MaryT, gypsum, liquid or powder, will open up the contaminated soil and help displace the toxins.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
13th May 2012 7:51am
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amanda says...
I wonder if there are any scientific papers on the issue? Might be worth a Google..
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amanda19
Geraldton. 400km north of Perth.
13th May 2012 11:34am
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Jantina says...
I reckon there are Amanda, I read something not that long ago on bacteria that could detoxify contaminated soil.
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Jantina
Mt Gambier
13th May 2012 3:38pm
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Xiem says...
I have absolutely no scientific basis for saying this, but I think that if anything helps to detoxify soil it would be bacteria. I saw a program a little while back about India and how the Ganges, which takes the crap and waste from a billion people, cleans itself with bacteria and oxygen. So who knows what the bacteria from buried (organic) waste can do to the soil. PERHAPS if microbic critters can survive the contamination directly, we can survive from the produce.
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Diego
 
13th May 2012 3:58pm
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Mike says...
Xiem I think bacteria and other living composers help break many toxic 'chemicals' down to less toxic by products.Heat,water,humus,colloids,and particular soil additives will always assist the soil biological activity.When you look at particular toxins some are very persistent.
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Cairns
13th May 2012 4:08pm
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joy says...
It seems that if unsure it is better to grow treecrops rather than root crops.
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joy5
katherine
13th May 2012 6:26pm
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Julie says...
Have a look at what these French farmers are doing.

http://www.care2.com/greenliving/new-fertilizer-revolutionizes-french-agriculture.html#ixzz1ttLICdyM

It doesn't give you the name of the product, but it could be this:

http://www.fungi.com/mycrogrow/index.html
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Julie
Roleystone WA
13th May 2012 7:32pm
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Speedy says...
fungi can break down just about anything organic incluting nasties like DDT, dieldrin, petro-chemicals, PAH's , you name it and there'll be a fungi that can biologically tear the molecules apart and turn it into something either benign or even beneficial.

using a blanket of mulch over the soil will provide food for the fungi to grow and a place for them to live while they devour it and anything else that gets in their way.
better still is to get some matured compost (made via aerobic hot-composting method) and dig it into the soil.

Heavy metals (Arsenic, Lead, Mercury, Cadmium, Uranium etc.) cant be broken down in soils and can persist without removal via leaching or physically taking it away.
some fungi and plants are bioacumilators of specific heavy matals and could be used to 'mop up' these elements and through harvesting the plants or fungi and disposing of as toxic waste, thereby detoxifying the soil without total removal.
some heavy metals can be biologically or chemically complexed in soils to form less harmful (less bio-available) substances.
Bringing pH from very low to closer to neutral can also lessen mobility of heavy metals in soils to a point where it is acceptable.
...That all said, unless a site is really badly contaminated, you're likely to inhale/ingest more toxins from fallout of industry if you're anywhere near a city, refinery or powerstation.
soil health, balance and good soil biology is the best buffer against it.

If you're really concerned about it , there are labs that can test for specific toxins.

hot compost , fungi, mulch

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Speedy
Nthn Vic
15th May 2012 9:24am
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Speedy says...
there's a West Aus. company that makes a product as good as mycogrow.
http://www.maiaustralia.com.au/

I use Mycoapply defence for my potplants, seedlings and cuttings.
A good product.

https://www.maiaustralia.com.au/store/store.php
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Speedy
Nthn Vic
15th May 2012 9:28am
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amanda says...
Nice one Speedy!? Some good leads there...Must admit - I will be checking out the soil of the next property we buy.

I have always felt so great about mine here...as the land was fallow for maybe 20yrs all up. I also know it's history for the 20yrs previous to that even!?
Very lucky really.

When folk have bought n sold land in the past - this issue was not a blip on the radar really...?

Maybe one day the Soil Test will be as important as the Termite Inspection hey..? ;-)

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amanda19
Geraldton. 400km north of Perth.
15th May 2012 7:21pm
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Julie says...
Thanks for that Speedy. Good to know there is a local product.But I couldn't get onto 'online store' to check the price. Will try again tomorrow.

From what I remember from reading 'The Living Soil' by Lady Eve Balfour, compost is full of mycorrhizae (sp?). But I don't make compost any more (back problems), so I use a lot of potting mix.

I do add Eco Bokashi, and grow everything in containers. I am always looking for anything that will improve the health of my plants.

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Julie
Roleystone WA
15th May 2012 8:44pm
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Speedy says...
yes, when compost is made properly and has a period of maturation after the heat has gone out of it will allow the fungi to develop.
the mycorrhizae in compost is endomycorrhizae, like the type in the Mycoapply Defence.
it will attach to the roots of, and benefit most plants that youd grow in a garden, the exceptions being members of the beet, amaranth and poppy families.
ok for most fruit trees except walnuts.
Blueberries and relatives have Ericoid mycorrhizae.
some other trees eg. pecans will also team up with ectomycorrhizae.

the mycoapply defence also has Trichoderma spp. , fungi that feeds on other fungi and is employed as a defence against pathogenic fungi.

Myco apply Defence ...smallest pkt is 1kg and is about $60 from memory.

I'm guessing that Bokashi in mainly Lactobacilli and simmilar organisms, rather than fungi...still good for dealing with food scraps etc. but different to fungi and could both be used together ok.
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Speedy
Nthn Vic
15th May 2012 10:27pm
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MaryT says...
Thanks Speedy that's good information. Julie do you make your own bran for the Bokashi? I gave up buying it and now just use my compost bins. I don't have enough organic material to make hot compost but they just take whatever I can give them and never fill up so at least I'm not sending anything to landfill. They're the cheap ones with plastic panels tied together for sides and a lid. The panels have lots of openings; there's never any smell.
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MaryT
Sydney
16th May 2012 7:14am
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Julie says...
Make my own bran? I wouldn't know where to start Mary!

I buy a 3kg bag for $18, and it lasts me about a year. That's around $1.50 a month, which is good value for what it does.

More bulky organic material, like weeds, are just thrown back under the fruit trees. Along with leaves from a couple of deciduous trees, that's my mulch, which turns into compost over winter.
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Julie
Roleystone WA
16th May 2012 8:25pm
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MaryT says...
Julie I think I used to go through the Bokashi bran a lot quicker than you; I don't remember what I paid but I don't have a car so it's either having it delivered or go somewhere and cart it home by bus. I find the compost bin easier, I guess.
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MaryT
Sydney
16th May 2012 9:03pm
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Julie says...
Yes, 3kg can be heavy to carry around. My son picked up the last lot for me and brought it on his motor bike.

He found the backpack a bit heavy for a 30 minute drive - and he is a big, strong lad!

Mary, initially I didn't use enough, and the bucket got a bit stinky. I was advised to use more, but it still lasts me a while. I have started juicing lately (proud new owner of an Oscar Vitamax) which makes even more waste, so I'll see how it goes.
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Julie
Roleystone WA
17th May 2012 7:51pm
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Julie says...
To go back to joy's original post re soil toxins, this is what friends did some years ago.

They started an organic market garden (in Osborne Park WA), which had previously grown conventional vegetables, so was quite contaminated.

Working with the University of WA, they grew carrots, which removed the toxins. They were allowed to sell the carrots as conventional produce, as the level of organochlorines was still acceptable.

Eventually - I don't remember how long - the land was declared clean and was certified as suitable for organically-grown produce.

This may not be appropriate for a home gardener, but is stil worth knowing.

You could of course burn the carrots and not eat them!

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Julie
Roleystone WA
17th May 2012 8:04pm
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Original Post was last edited: 17th May 2012 8:07pm
MaryT says...
That is good to know Julie but I guess growing carrots would not be enough to remove some types of toxins? Speedy said "Heavy metals (Arsenic, Lead, Mercury, Cadmium, Uranium etc.) cant be broken down in soils and can persist without removal via leaching or physically taking it away."
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MaryT
Sydney
18th May 2012 5:59am
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Julie says...
True Mary, but the first post made mention of organochlorines, so that was what I was responding to.

I wouldn't even want to try growing anything edible in soils with heavy metal contamination.
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Julie
Roleystone WA
18th May 2012 7:49pm
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MaryT says...
Yes, Julie. I wouldn't know why anyone would want to, though most of us wouldn't know what's in our soil.
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MaryT
Sydney
18th May 2012 8:44pm
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amanda says...
And - that's why good soil stewardship is so important.. ;)

U are passing the soil down thru the generations.
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amanda19
Geraldton. 400km north of Perth.
20th May 2012 11:45pm
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Soiltest says...
Thanks for sharing such information.As we all know that quality of the soil plays a vital role in making good plant productivity. So, for that you need to identify the features of the soil to determine its ability to support your plants growth and makes better productivity. Soil Fertilizer Test and Soil testing enables you to judge the soil suitability, providing you with data for informed decision making and planning for the next crop
Get More on: http://soiltest.in/soil-water-testing-services.php
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Soiltest
Soiltest
30th April 2015 4:34pm
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