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Tiara starts with ... Hi everyone, I have been searching for an answer for my particular mango tree until I found this forum, so I hope I'm not being too rude for jumping into this forum and fire some questions straightaway. Attached are some pics of grafted mango tree which I bought about 8 months ago, The tree has only one branch which going up diagonally, so I'm worry it will affect the balance as the tree starts leaning toward one side. I would welcome any comments or suggestions from the forum. By the way this is Nam doc mai variety and it starts flowering for the 2nd time. Best Regards, Tiara
| About the Author Tiara Perth 12th April 2013 8:11pm #UserID: 7897 Posts: 15 View All Tiara's Edible Fruit Trees |
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People who Like this Question Raycp1 Original Post was last edited: 13th April 2013 1:53am | |||||||
David_WM says... Hi Tiara At this stage you want to be establishing good tree shape. Ideally you want 3 branches coming from the main trunk. You don't want it trying to carry fruit at this age or all of its energy will go into the fruit and not into growing. I see 2 possible pruning points. I would prefer to cut it at B and encourage strong shooting under there( I like to keep the trunk short so the fruit isn't too high later on)...at at this time of the year it may be better to cut it at A and stake the branch up straight (in line with the main trunk), leaving more leaves on the tree as it will need them over the winter. The new shoots will then come on the sloping branch, which will be straight after staking.
| About the Author DavidWM1 Perth 13th April 2013 1:55am #UserID: 7278 Posts: 30 View All DavidWM1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Tiara says... Hi David, Thanks for taking the effort and time for answering my question, I really appreciate it. But I'm a bit confused, so should I better cut it at B position or A position ?. And what do you mean by cutting at A and stake the branch up? It might sound silly but how do i do it?. Actually I prefer your B solution but is it to risky doing it close to winter?. Regards, Tiara | About the Author Tiara Perth 13th April 2013 12:34pm #UserID: 7897 Posts: 15 View All Tiara's Edible Fruit Trees |
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David_WM says... Hi Tiara I would normally cut it at B, but once winter arrives in Perth Mangoes don't grow much and with the cool wet winter they are vulnerable to disease. I was thinking that the tree would not have much time to grow more leaves before before winter, so its probably safer to prune minimally, ie at A. By staking it I mean getting a wooden stake, bamboo is good, and driving it into the ground parallel to the trunk. Not too close to the base of the trunk, you don't want to damage roots. Then use some soft twine, and tie the stake to the trunk. The way I use stakes is to tie the twine firmly to the stake and then do a loose knot around the trunk so you are not strangling the trunk. If you do a couple of ties below the branch and then a couple above it so that you pull the branch vertical in line with the trunk. You don't need to straighten out the branch on the join otherwise you may break it off. Just get the tip of the branch to be in line with the trunk. It may look a bit bent but over time it will grow straight and just look like a part of the trunk. Regards, David
| About the Author DavidWM1 Perth 14th April 2013 12:43am #UserID: 7278 Posts: 30 View All DavidWM1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Anonymous says... Hi David, Thanks for your detailed instruction there. I have decided to cut it at B, I now it's risky but I'll bite the bullet hoping it will grow into better shape. Now what I need is to find out what to do so the tree will survive this winter. Once again thanks for your help. Cheers, Tiara | About the Author Tiara 14th April 2013 4:02pm #UserID: 7897 Posts: 15 View All Tiara's Edible Fruit Trees |
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M Nash says... I think David was telling you it needed its leaves to survive winter. You should have cut wire A ,,,,,,, BOOM :) Why did you ask if you were just going to cut the branch off anyway? Next growing season it would have sprouted several new branches in all directions and then you would cut wire B. Hope it works out for you | About the Author MNash1 14th April 2013 7:29pm #UserID: 2892 Posts: 292 View All MNash1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Anonymous says... Ooops..! Nash are you saying that David was telling me to cut at A this season then cut at B next season? I thought David suggested to cut at A then just stake the branch up. I posted this topic because before I didn't even know what to do with my mango tree. David gave me some good advice. So my understanding is David suggested two options : 1. safer option : cutting at A and stake it up, 2. riskier option : cutting at B. If I to cut at A why would I need to cut again at B next season ?. | About the Author Tiara 14th April 2013 10:53pm #UserID: 7897 Posts: 15 View All Tiara's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 15th April 2013 12:05am | |||||||
M Nash says... Because the top of the central stem will sprout new branches in all directions. If that single branch is still a problem, then remove it. Doesnt matter now. It should come back with even branching in the next warm season,,,, We hope. Not sure what your winter is like? But if it gets below 7C Id wrap some plastic around some steaks to help keep it from frost and wind. | About the Author MNash1 15th April 2013 1:21pm #UserID: 2892 Posts: 292 View All MNash1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Tiara 15th April 2013 7:35pm #UserID: 7897 Posts: 15 View All Tiara's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Tiara 15th April 2013 7:37pm #UserID: 7897 Posts: 15 View All Tiara's Edible Fruit Trees |
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David_WM says... I guess you are not logged in maybe. What Nash says is good advice. When you prune a mango stem, do it behind the end of the growth spurt as they put out lots of shoots from there, all from the same point on the stem, which creates a weakness there. You get a shoot from the base of each leaf pretty much, so where I have drawn the line in B you should get 3 shoots judging from what I can see in the photo. BTW, I can't see the base of the tree, but if that grass is growing right up to the trunk, I'd be removing it around the base of the trunk and mulching. kikuyu grass doesn't like to share. | About the Author DavidWM1 Perth 16th April 2013 12:18am #UserID: 7278 Posts: 30 View All DavidWM1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Tiara 16th April 2013 9:46am #UserID: 7897 Posts: 15 View All Tiara's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author MNash1 16th April 2013 11:31am #UserID: 2892 Posts: 292 View All MNash1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author MNash1 16th April 2013 11:52am #UserID: 2892 Posts: 292 View All MNash1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 16th April 2013 12:51pm | |||||||
| About the Author Tiara 16th April 2013 7:46pm #UserID: 7897 Posts: 15 View All Tiara's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author 96_Sudan 123bilios123 1st May 2016 11:53pm #UserID: 13834 Posts: 1 View All 96_Sudan's Edible Fruit Trees |
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allybanana says... That Kent mango looks very happy, best of luck. As for the mango above it is so small, I would not cut the mango tree at all, instead put in a long stake and bind the branch straight up. With more leaves the roots can grow stronger and the the next flush should throw more branches. There is a possibility the tree is so small it will only throw another single branch next flush and be back were it started. Mangoes don't store starches to the same extent as deciduous trees that's why they do better with nurse leaves when grafted. Heavy punning when young can starve them for sugars generated from the leaves. | About the Author allybanana EDEN, NSW 6th May 2016 11:19pm #UserID: 4544 Posts: 372 View All allybanana's Edible Fruit Trees |
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