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Yellow Lemon Tree Leaves

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Andrea starts with ...
My 3 years old lemon tree is partially green leaves and partially yellow leaves, the fruits stay small and green, never turn into mature yellow lemon, what can I do? fertilizer? we have plenty of rain this winter.
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Andrea2
Melbourne
17th August 2010 3:32pm
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Wayne says...
Hello Andrea
Sounds like your tree has a Magnesium deficiency for starters.
Apply a hand full of Magnesium Sulphate [Epsom Salts] per square metre under the tree out beyond the drip line, the same thing with Dolomite. If you mulch under the tree pull it aside first. Also add a good citrus fertiliser with trace elements or Terrafoska TE and you will see much improvement.

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Wayne
Mackay QLD
17th August 2010 4:58pm
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Original Post was last edited: 17th August 2010 4:59pm
Violet_Cactus says...
Hi Andrea,
Do a Ph test, also try adding chelated iron.

From Gardening Australia:
Yellow leaves on a green plant can indicate a number of problems, including lime-induced chlorosis. The symptoms of this condition are yellow leaves with darker green veins. It occurs on the new growth and when it's severe it can cause the whole leaf to become pale yellow or almost white. Lime-induced chlorosis affects many types of plants and happens when iron in the soil is 'locked up' and not available to the plant.

Alkaline soil is the major source of this problem and this is caused by the application of alkaline water, mulch or compost (such as spent mushroom compost). Sometimes it can be caused by lime leeching out of the render in walls and buildings.

To correct this problem, apply iron chelates. This should be mixed with water and can be applied as a foliar spray or around the root zone. If the weather is still warm, the leaves should start to green up within a week, however it will probably take a couple more applications at the rate of one application every two to four weeks until the leaves are as green as they should be.

Treating your plants with iron chelates is only a short-term solution to the symptoms of chlorosis and it doesn't actually treat the soil. For a long-term solution, apply agricultural sulphur.

http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s2829969.htm
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VioletCactus1
Melbourne
17th August 2010 7:50pm
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Wayne says...
You can do one or the other Andrea, but to add sulphur over dolomite is chasing your tail
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
18th August 2010 11:22am
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amanda says...
Andrea - can u post a picture? also the old leaves versus the new one's?
Are the new leaves getting smaller? Is it the new growth that is pale?
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
18th August 2010 2:14pm
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Wayne says...
Amanda,
Andrea is saying the leaves are partially green and partially yellow with the fruit not maturing. To me that indicates a low PH as one of the problems.
In fact I would be also adding some Gypsum, especially if it is heavy soil.

Sulphur is going to lower the PH even further.
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
18th August 2010 3:35pm
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amanda says...
I'd still like to see a pic Wayne... :) This part of growing really interests me and I enjoy the problem solving part.
It's not quite clear to me what Andrea is saying. It's pretty hard to determine the problem without a pic and a pH test.

Magnsium deficieny can also occur when potassium and calcium levels too high. Gypsum is calcium sulphate.

Fruits not maturing suggest an immobile element (like iron, calcium or boron)

Andrea could have also chucked a whole heap of super phosphate or nitrogen on her tree...the "whole" story is important.

I don't believe in just putting a remedy on my trees cos' someone tells me so...I am not saying u are wrong Wayne - but pics are important and so is the history.
Deficiencies are not simple and without a pH test, at the very least ..forget it - you are running blind. And anyone who wants to grow a fruit tree MUST learn to do a pH test, at the very least - otherwise - forget it.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
18th August 2010 5:23pm
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Original Post was last edited: 19th August 2010 12:47am
amanda says...
Andrea - this is why a pH test is important. And - if u really want to garden....you will need to learn how to do one.... :)
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
  
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
19th August 2010 1:04am
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Carol says...
Hey guys, I am in the same position as Andrea. I have a potted lemon tree. Leaves are going yellow and I have no drip line for the epsom salt so I put in just inside around the pot and it liked it but it didn't improve. I still have two lemons on it and they are still green. All my friends lemons are going yellow. Can I save the tree, I am not concerned about the two lemons but I would like to save them as well.

Also my roots are at the surface, are they suppose to be?
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Queensland
26th February 2011 9:17am
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Pauline says...
Yellowing leaves are the sign of a lot of things, a photo would help LOADS. Is it the older leaves turning first or the new leaves? Is it the veins, or inside of the veins, or is it the whole leaf?
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Pauline
Adelaide
26th February 2011 1:53pm
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Charles cant spell says...
Please dont ask these questions without pictures, we like to be helpful so we are going to respond but the chances of being wrong, even totally wrong, i.e to acidic or to basic could worsen your problem and kill the tree.

Please provide photos or take a leaf to a garden centre.

Cheers.
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Charlesstillcantspell1
Perth Innaloo
26th February 2011 3:25pm
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kert says...
Yellowing on lemon leaves is a hoary,old chestnut, beloved of Gargening Australia. It's magnesium deficiency and fixed with Epsom salts foliar spray. The packet even gives the instructions of how to do it, that's how common it is.
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sydney
26th February 2011 3:49pm
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Julie says...
Andrea, if for some reason you can't send a pic, have a look at this. It shows examples of deficiences in citrus.

www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/horticulture/citrus

I take photos, but haven't put a programme on the computer to resize them - so they are too big to go through. Must do it soon!
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Julie 1
Roleystone WA
26th February 2011 5:15pm
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Original Post was last edited: 26th February 2011 5:20pm
Brad says...
It's one reason kert. Not the reason
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Brad2
G Hill,Perth
26th February 2011 11:43pm
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Wayne says...
I'm thinking that Carol's tree is root bound, one reason why some roots are on the surface. I think it needs to be planted out or re-potted
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
27th February 2011 8:58am
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Charles cant spell says...
Julie what operating system do you have. I just right click on the photo or photos and select send to then select mail Recipient - then it will ask you what size you want them to end up. Its not very techy only gives a couple of sizes, it opens up outlook or email client and attaches them in their smaller size, you can then select them, and copy and paste them into a new folder (as file names are the same as the original). That is for Windows 7 and Win XP not sure about 98 etc.

I.e. this requires no extra picture editing software, but it might require outlook to be enabled, even if you dont use it to manage emails.
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Charlesstillcantspell1
Perth Innaloo
27th February 2011 2:36pm
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Brad says...
as an example why pictures are so important, here's some different types of yellow citrus leaves, with different causes and cures. scanned ages ago out of some borrowed book, so I can't give the reference.
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1

Picture: 2

Picture: 3
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Brad2
G Hill,Perth
27th February 2011 3:26pm
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MaryT says...
This US site has good description and photographs of yellow leaves (like yours, Brad) with explanations and solutions. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs141
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MaryT
Sydney
27th February 2011 4:18pm
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amanda says...
That's a good link MaryT - thanks! Brad what is the pic 1 deficiency in that eg?

(2 is Mg and 3 is Fe?)
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mid West WA.
27th February 2011 5:44pm
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grub says...
hi amanda picture one i lack of nitrogen i suffed from this,this year
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27th February 2011 7:08pm
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Julie says...
Charles, I don't have problems with sending by email, though they might take a while. I had difficulties putting pictures on this site.

Thanks for the info, I'll see if it works for me. There is a free prog. called Picasa which is supposedly very good. They store the pics for you,saving room on your hard drive.

I'm sure it's easy to install - I just hate fiddling with anything techy!
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Julie 1
Roleystone WA
27th February 2011 7:50pm
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Charles cant spell says...
Julie, you use the email thing to make the file smaller (i.e. reduce the pic size) it needs to be smaller than 140kb ? then it can be attached. You dont use it to email people.

But picasa is ok expect it wants to take over everything, anyone would think its google or something.
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Charlesstillcantspell1
Perth Innaloo
27th February 2011 10:36pm
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amanda says...
Hey Julie - I do it the same way as CCS (I think he told me actually..?!) If u want to email me your phone number I can call u and talk u thru it if u like....(easier than emailing intructions - but I can try that too...)
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mid West WA.
28th February 2011 12:42am
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Brad says...
Irfanview is a 1 file simple to download and use program that I recommend for viewing and editing. it also lets you do batch resizing etc

you guys got those pics correct. Nitrogen, magnesium and iron. When I've had lack of nitrogen they looked more mottled than that pic though. note that Ph is sometimes a factor in deficiencies, rather than lack of elements themselves.

here's hoping the original query poster can post some pics :)
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Brad2
G Hill,Perth
28th February 2011 1:13am
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MaryT says...
Looks like we lost Andrea who posted the query but meanwhile I learnt a lot from researching for the answers so it's all good. :)
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MaryT
Sydney
28th February 2011 6:28am
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kert says...
It's been said that commoner things are commonest;as Magnesium deficiency is practically universal treat for that before enetertaining other causes.
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sydney
28th February 2011 8:49am
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Julie says...
Perhaps Andrea just wanted a quick, simple answer - lots of people do! Having worked in a nursery, I know many folks hate it if you give them a choice. It's usually'Just tell me one thing to do and I'll do it!
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Julie 1
Roleystone WA
28th February 2011 2:57pm
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Brad says...
fair enough Julie and Kert. I'll bet she needs nitrogen. Add some dynamic lifter. if you can get the citrus one, it'll fix any other problems too :)
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Brad2
G Hill,Perth
1st March 2011 1:19am
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Julie says...
Hey Brad, I didn't know there was a citrus one! Mind you, since D. Lifter was taken over by Yates it has about doubled in price. I now buy Multigrow DPM. Similiar to the old D.Lifter price.
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Julie 1
Roleystone WA
1st March 2011 7:58pm
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Helen says...
having trouble with my young lemon tree too. here is a photo:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v32/missruckus/P1010351.jpg
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Helen10
Toronto
2nd August 2011 5:58am
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amanda says...
Helen - it might be worth checking pH of the potting mix and/or the bark stuff you have on top? (is it mulch?)

I'd be potting it up into a much bigger pot than that now also (or get it in the ground). Make sure it has good drainage and don't over water it.

It looks a bit hungry to me - if the pH is good - then try giving it some liquid feeds of a good product like Miracle Grow or such (I tend to go slightly weaker and more often in pots - to avoid salt build ups..) and some liquid seaweed is a great tonic for all plants.

Not sure what your climate is like there so can't comment on that part...
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
2nd August 2011 9:25am
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Steven says...
Citrus trees are susceptible to magnesium and iron deficencies, both will cause the leaves to yellow an iron deficency will usually leave the veins of the leaf green but the rest will turn yellow and for a Mg deficiency i think the whole leaf usually turns yellow.

You can buy Magnesium Sulphate at the supermarket as Epson salts and you can get iron either at the nursery or a hardware store as colouring for cement.

A simple layer of compost or good fertilizer may also help.


Regards

Steven
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Steven
Eastern Suburbs
2nd August 2011 5:09pm
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amanda says...
That's true Steven - but it does depend on the pH...if it's too alkaline then it's [Iron, Manganese and Zinc] that are the usual suspects. You can usually buy a Zinc/Manganese mix for this very reason - it's that common.

It can be hard to tell the difference between some of them...that's why a pH test can narrow them down.

In winter citrus will often get the "yellows" as the soil is too cold for effective uptake - particularly zinc. Foliar spraying works best in this instance.

Overwatering can cause an iron deficiency - and other ghastly yellows if it's bad enuf'

It's interesting as many of my citrus (mostly the lemons n limes) are always showing a slight deficiency (as it's very hard to amend the soil permanently) - but they still produce the most lovely fruit...

I don't get too stressed about it anymore - I find foliar spraying can cause more damage than the problem itself?! Pine bark chips, as mulch, have been my best friend in maintaining a more acid soil.

The other thing I have found is that almost every single manure or mulch that I have sourced externally, is alkaline...once it's laid out - it sorts itself out and ends up fairly neutral - but it can cause a transient deficiency in the meantime.
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
3rd August 2011 9:29am
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Xiem says...
It might be appropriate at this point to ask about the benefits of peeing on one's lemon tree. Is this just convenient for blokes or are there real advantages? Is it recommended for yellowing leaves and in what "doses"??
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Diego
 
4th August 2011 4:42pm
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jason says...
An old chestnut,you know. It is magnesium deficiency, fixable with Epsom salt as foliar spray. Is there any one left who hasn't heard of this?
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Katoomba
5th August 2011 10:00am
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Steven says...
I agree Amanda, If the soil is too alkaline it will hinder the trees uptake of minerals. check that then i would give it some epsom salts or iron.

haha, i might be wrong but i think the reason why people pee on lemon trees is because there is ammonia in your urine.
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Steven
Eastern Suburbs
5th August 2011 10:08am
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MaryT says...
Wee works. I planted a tin of lemon tree (that's how they came in the 60s) and made my brother wee on it and it thrived and fruited for years. Not sure if it's still alive; it was a long time ago and we don't live there any more. Maybe the tin provided the iron :)
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MaryT
Sydney
6th August 2011 7:53am
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Jason says...
I heard a funny story from a commercial citrus orchard, someone got the idea peeing on a lemon tree was good and it ended up some bloke and all his mates decided to use it as their official backyard pee area and killed the tree stone dead. So you want to limit you pee'ers to one or two :)
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Jason
Portland
6th August 2011 8:46am
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amanda says...
Apparently wee should be diluted 1/10 b4 application - but if you peed just outside the drip zone (not too often) you might be ok...?
Perhaps it (the urea) could burn the surface feeder roots otherwise....(especially that super-concentrated morning wee! :)
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
6th August 2011 11:31am
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Original Post was last edited: 6th August 2011 11:32am
Mike says...
The rule of 'thumb' is different spots along the dripline and never near the trunk.I think nearly all fertliser should be at the drip line or further out and let the roots go chasing the nutrients.Some asian farmers say this improves the root system and also makes trees more 'drought proof'.
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Cairns
6th August 2011 3:49pm
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Carol says...
Okay guys I have ready everyones information and arguments, you all make me laugh and smile. Brad I am not Picture 2 or 3, I would say i am closer to being picture 1. As for the root problem I am thinking of upsizing the pot but have been cautious as I know there are so many risks to upsizing too early or too much. We have now had a massive amount of rain, more than normal so I am thinking that is not helping. I am new to the gardening scene and plan to stay so I agree with one of the others that I should also learn to do a PH test. I will do the epsom salts first and organise either the magnisium or the iron issue once I do the PH test. Thank you for all arguing about my problem, you are all awesome.
Carol
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Carol22
Queensland, Australia
1st April 2012 11:14am
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jill says...
Hi everyone,

Reading through the previous comments, I'm thinking that my mandarin is suffering from an iron deficiency - although it could be magnesium or manganese. Could anyone advise? As you can see in the picture, the leaves are quite yellow although more green around the veins, and the tree produces lots of flowers but no fruit.
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
  
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jill
 
24th September 2013 2:53pm
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Julie says...
jill, I posted this a couple of years ago, so you may not have seen it (way up in the thread). Have a look.

www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/horticulture/citrus

It looks more like manganese than magnesium deficiency, though they look very alike. A friend had a similar problem with an avocado recently - it was hard to tell the difference. But as she had given it Epsom salts the previous season, I guessed manganese. It worked.

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Julie 1
Roleystone WA
24th September 2013 3:02pm
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Original Post was last edited: 24th September 2013 3:14pm
jill says...
Hi Julie,

Thanks, I did look at that website, it was very informative. I checked out the section on nutrient deficiencies but, to be honest, it's hard (at least for me) to tell the difference between some of the conditions that cause yellowing leaves. Both these seem applicable, as do the photos:
* "Iron: Young leaves chlorotic, stunted abnormal growth, tips/margins/veins stay green longest. Lower vigour. Reduced yield."
* "Manganese: Young leaves mottled pale green, interveinal yellowing, reduced growth & slight loss in yield."

I was hoping that one of the forum experts might be able to tell exactly from my leaf! :-)
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jill
 
24th September 2013 3:08pm
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Julie says...
jill, magnesium def. seems to have a sort of green 'V' at the bottom. Yours doesn't. I'm mostly going by that. But it is quite hard to tell.

Boy, you're quick off the mark with your posts!
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Julie 1
Roleystone WA
24th September 2013 3:11pm
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Original Post was last edited: 24th September 2013 3:40pm
jill says...
Thanks, Julie. Is there any harm in feeding it with both iron chelates and manganese sulfate to counter both possible deficiencies? For both of them, DPI says "no known effects" to "symptoms of excess" - so I figure I can't do any harm?

p.s. I'm quick of the mark cos I'm bored at work and day dreaming about my garden. :-)
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jill
 
24th September 2013 3:57pm
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Julie says...
I would try one or the other first, or you may never really know which worked. That won't help your learning curve!

Don't know where you are, but unless the weather is warming up it might not respond straight away. Give it a couple of weeks - it won't die in the meantime.

.
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Julie 1
Roleystone WA
24th September 2013 8:22pm
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allybanana says...
I struggled for years trying to get a manderine happy that was in soil to alkaline the leaves always had the green vein look. I think a stack of old morter buried in the hill just above was the source of the problem. I tried the lot; epsom salts, trace elements, the applications of iron and even sulpher. The last two helped a bit, but after years of getting nowear in the end i mooved it and put in a alkaline loving carob in that spot. Both trees thrived.

When planting citrus i try to steer towards manderine rootstock which has the best alkaline tolerence. Trifoliata needs acid soils and when planting these trees i plant them deep, so the graft is below surface level to give the scion (top wood) a chance to root in.
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allybanana
 
25th September 2013 5:15am
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Anonymous says...
You have to be careful with manderines they love free draining soils.You have make sure your soil has adequate sand levels to draw water from soggy materials such as clay, composts and manure.Next time you go to the nursery just lightly scratch the potting mix from a manderine pot you will see white crystals which is sand,plays a very important function.You dont need a lot of sand in soil as it will dry too quickly but a little is required .The finer the better,lawn topping or potting mix sand is good. Another thing you may want to try is planting them on a raised mound.
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A.C
 
25th September 2013 8:28pm
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Skyetelz says...
Can anyone help me with this question... I have a Meyer lemon tree about 2-3 years old I'm guessing. Some of my leaves are turning yellow and I also have roots coming up from the top soil. Not sure what this means, some sites say when the roots do that it's a good thing and mean new growth, some of the other sites say otherwise... Very confused:( my tree is really green on the top but the yellow leaves throw me off...please help
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Skyetelz
Yellow leaves on lemon tree
10th June 2014 7:13am
#UserID: 10057
Posts: 1
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