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Problems with tomatoes

    18 responses

cesar starts with ...
I have a problem with my tomatoes. Some leaves are turning yellow, dry out and then the whole stem comes off. Do you know what causes it and how to solve it? Thanks
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66
melbourne
10th December 2009 12:32am
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Wayne says...
Hello cesar, yellowing of the leaves like that with the veins staying green usually means a shortage of magnesium, try a little Magnesium sulphate(EPSOM SALTS) with a little dolomite as well. What sort of fertiliser are you giving it.
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Wayne
Mackay
10th December 2009 7:47am
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au0rey says...
My kaffir lime had a similar condition whereby the younger leaves look sick like yours..dark veins and pale background..and leaves drop daily.

I read the packaging of my epsom salts and the description it mentioned fitted my kaffir's condition. However adding it to my kaffir did not help it. I suspect the printing on the packaging is wrong!

I went on internet to search and found that the description was more like iron deficiency so i bought chelated iron. It worked and my plant is back in health within a short time...bearing new GREEN leaves, flowers and fruits!

Here is where i found the info :

http://members.fortunecity.com/pjsauber/Citrus%20deficiencies.htm

Remember if you suspect it is iron deficiency, buy only chelated iron as it is the only iron the plant can absorb.

What potting mix do you use? Should use only premium ones with red label and ticks. I usually buy Osmoscote (the orange bag and cheapest $7+) but have red label from bunnings...it works for all my plants including my tomato silvery fir.
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melbourne
10th December 2009 8:45pm
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amanda says...
Hi cesar, your tomatoe plant looks like it's very hungry for nitrogen to me. Is that woodchip you have for mulch in the pot? It may be causing nitrogen draw down. Generally you always need to add a nitrogen source when u use fresh wood. If you want quick results use a liquid feed little and often until the plant starts to recover.
Iron deficiency starts with the youngest leaves first - whereas your plant is yellowing from the oldest leaves first - this suggests a mobile element.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
11th December 2009 10:45am
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Mish says...
Hi everyone
I too have a tomato problem, but since I have changed from PC to Mac, I'm unable to figure out how to upload photo's so I will just explain the situation as best I can.
I have 16 tomato plants, 'sweet bite', green zebra, grosse lisse, and black krim. Its my black krim which is the worry. I have only planted one of these and It is sharing the same soil, feeding and watering as all the other tomatoes', but it has not grown since I planted it several weeks ago... All the other's have tripled (or bigger) in size and are a lush green colour and have flower buds and some flowers have opened.
I have used a fruit and veggie fertiliser around the drip circle when planted and have given them one feed of a seaweed, fish and organic water soluble food
My black krim is a dull khaki army green colour and the veins are very noticeable being a dark green almost grey colour, this colour is also on the tips and edges of the leaves... It was planted from a seedling into excellent quality veggie mix from my local soil supplier...
Any advice will be greatly appreciated
Thanks Mish
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Mish
Singleton
11th December 2009 11:11pm
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Wayne says...
By au0rey
"I suspect the printing on the packaging is wrong!" ??? ---- I have been using epsom salts for many years, however, you are also correct, sometimes it can be an iron deficiency but not very often, that's why I asked about the fertiliser. Many fertilisers have iron as trace elements in them, Thanks for that link.

Amanda has picked up on the fertiliser and when you look at the other plants in the back ground I think she is on the right track, but perhaps a complete fertiliser after a light nitrogen kick.
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Wayne
Mackay
12th December 2009 6:43am
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Original Post was last edited: 12th December 2009 12:42pm
cesar says...
I gave them good potting mix, and added "Tomato and Vegetable Starter Fertiliser" from Brunnings (granules) when they were flowering and they grew very well but then they stopped once hot weather got here. I just have tried again, and see how it goes.... I have eucalyptus for mulch.
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66
melbourne
13th December 2009 11:02pm
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amanda says...
Hi Cesar - maybe you should take the eucalyptus mulch off one of them and replace with something else - and see if that causes an improvement? Eucalypt has some powerful resins (like pine wood - not bark) that may be toxic to your tomatoes? Eucalypts are also very good at preventing anything growing around them (alleopathic?) - just like pine trees.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
15th December 2009 11:37am
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Julie says...
Eucalyptus leaves especially are very acid, which can make plants stunted and yellow.

Not saying this is your whole problem, but it could be contributing to it.
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Roleystone WA
15th December 2009 3:58pm
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au0rey says...
One nursery guy told me lucerne mulch returns Nitrogen to soil and sugarcane mulch returns carbon...
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melbourne
17th December 2009 6:08pm
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Araich says...
I've also had iron chlorosis like symptoms with a few plants and been mystified by the onset of yellowing. Reading this has just made me realise that the common factor may be tea-tree mulch. It's a kind of fancy mulch that I've put around an avocado, citrus in pots and kiwifruit in the ground.

Various fertilisers and iron chelates have had little effect. It never occurred to me the mulch could be implicated. I'll swap it out for lucerne tomorrow.

As for the tomatoes, I have some plants that look the same. I think the soil was too rich with manure and also poor drainage.
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Araich
Melbourne
17th December 2009 9:25pm
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cesar says...
Thanks everyone, there were lots of things I did not know. Things are getting better now, they are still a bit yellow but I think it has stopped... and hopefully they will be green again...
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66
melbourne
17th December 2009 10:54pm
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Wayne says...
That's very interesting about the mulch
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Wayne
Mackay
18th December 2009 7:51am
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Brad says...
I aim to put a bit of blood and bone or sheep manure down before adding mulch on top, just in case there is nitrogen drawdown.

If you don't want acidification of the soil a little lime or dolomite will fix that. Many plants like a bit of sulphate of potash at the same time.
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Brad2
Como, Perth
18th December 2009 12:54pm
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Julie says...
I recommend any keen gardener buy themselves a pH testing kit. I have had so many problems in the past which turned out to be either overacid or alkaline soil. Most nurseries should sell them.

I only recently found out that the blended manure I was using had a pH of around 14 - extremely alkaline! No wonder plants weren't thriving. I have added iron sulphate and they seem to be improving, but may still need a bit of magnesium.
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Roleystone WA
18th December 2009 3:15pm
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Brad says...
Did someone add Sodium Hydroxide to your manure?

Chicken Manure can be alkaline, especially if they're fed calcium, but I'm amazed if it could get anywhere near 14
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Brad2
Como, Perth
18th December 2009 3:40pm
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Julie says...
Brad, it is a mix of chicken,cow and sheep. I have no idea why it is so alkaline - it shouldn't be.

It is Richgro brand - their potting mix can be variable.

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Roleystone WA
19th December 2009 3:07pm
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Wooly says...
My plants are going yellow too.i dont know whats wrong.I feed them "Max Feed" for vegs from bunnings every second week which is mixed with water,and i have sugarcane mulch.I used a general house hold compost and some horse manure from the local horse club.I live on the gold coast..can anyone help!!Thanks in advance
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Wooly
goldcoast
21st November 2010 9:47pm
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Brendan says...
Hi Wooly,
My 'healthy' tomato plants are going yellow from being too wet! We've had over 500mm rain since Nov 1st :-(our av for Nov is 85mm)
Even my 'wet weather' tomato type like 'Thai Pink Egg', is struggling.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
22nd November 2010 7:52am
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Original Post was last edited: 25th November 2010 9:05am

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