
46 responses
| About the Author mimi altona meadows 23rd June 2007 11:16am #UserID: 98 |
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| About the Author Jan Bundamba Qld. 23rd June 2007 11:46pm #UserID: 88 |
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Melissa says... Hi mim...relax...it is winter and your persommon is sleeping....we have many persommons and they enjoy the heat...I would mulch them though and give them a good feed towards the end of July/August depending on frosts...we use chook poo and blood and bone ...by the way if you want fruit ...better check that it is a self fertile tree as many need a cross to set fruit...good luck. | About the Author Melissa Luddenham 24th June 2007 12:17pm #UserID: 108 |
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Kath says... The trick with persimmons is to give them all the good things in spring when they do most of their growing and then you will almost get away with neglecting them for the rest of the year. As the buds begin to swell give your tree a deep drink, fertilize it and mulch it with a deep organic mulch, it will push off beautifully for you. | About the Author Kath Cawongla 26th June 2007 3:32pm #UserID: 2 View All Kath's Edible Fruit Trees![]() |
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Melissa says... Thanks Kath....the forum is a fanastic Idea....but is there some way we can be recognised as we come in cause typing up our email addy etc everytime limits the answering or asking re time ...however even if you can't- this is still a very good idea as many people are a little nervous about unusual things to grow.....thanks again Melissa | About the Author Melissa Luddenham 30th June 2007 7:52am #UserID: 108 |
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Wendy says... I just bought a Fuyu persimmon tree and know nothing about growing fruit trees, but understand it will grow to 12ft by 12 ft. I would like to "dwarf" the tree if I can. Since I have a small yard I would like to keep it in a pot. Any ideas of how to make it a dwarf? Can a persimmon tree survive ok in a pot? Any other tip/tricks I need to know? Right now, its a 10-ft "stick" in its orignal container with some leaves. Thanks... | About the Author Wendy San Diego 2nd July 2007 3:23am #UserID: 1 |
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Kath says... Melissa - I believe Correy is working on a simpler log in for us as we chat. Wendy - Your Fuyu will grow and fruit beautifully for you in a pot. To make it a successful and fruitful tree you will need to repot it every couple of years, this will be best done when it is deciduous. Trim its roots back by about 1/3 and the top accordingly. Pot it up again into a fresh good quality mix, by doing this every two years you will keep your tree small, fresh and happy in a pot. We have made a little video on growing bonsai fruit trees, here is the link http://www.daleysfruit.com.au/blog/2007/06/dwarf-fruit-trees-bonsai-bags.html | About the Author Kath Cawongla 2nd July 2007 2:32pm #UserID: 2 View All Kath's Edible Fruit Trees![]() |
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| About the Author Dan 31st December 2007 3:11pm #UserID: 527 |
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Kath says... Trees require little pruning, but can be pruned to an open centre or modified central leader. Young trees are initially pruned back to 80cm. New shoots are then thinned and pruned to form a well-shaped tree with wide angled branches. If branches become long and straggly, then these may need reducing in length for manageability and to prevent them breaking under the weight of the fruit. If trees start to overbear or become very straggly, they can be drastically cut back to give them a fresh start. They can also be pruned to form a hedge or an espallier. From - Susanna Lyles book - Discovering Fruit and Nuts, p183. | About the Author Kath Cawongla 10th January 2008 12:15pm #UserID: 2 View All Kath's Edible Fruit Trees![]() |
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Val says... I have a fuji fruit whose leaves yellow on edges and curl and go brown on the edges. I have mulched it and try to keep water up to it - though it has been very hot over last month. I have also added thrive liquid to see if this helps. It commenced shooting over the last couple of weeks, but these leaves are now curled. Is this a mineral deficit? Does a fuji fruit require an acid soil? thanks Val | About the Author Val Perth 7th February 2008 10:15am #UserID: 652 |
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| About the Author Bsilver sydney 7th February 2008 2:09pm #UserID: 189 |
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| About the Author Dan 10th February 2008 8:49am #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author Val Perth 11th February 2008 3:04pm #UserID: 652 |
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| About the Author juanita melbourne 23rd September 2008 12:54am #UserID: 702 |
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| About the Author shannon Florida 27th November 2008 9:21am #UserID: 1692 |
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| About the Author juanita melbourne 28th November 2008 12:35am #UserID: 702 |
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| About the Author Natalie Perth 25th April 2009 1:51am #UserID: 2235 |
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| About the Author aneh Perth 25th April 2009 12:12pm #UserID: 1937 |
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| About the Author harro Perth 4th May 2009 9:53am #UserID: 2274 |
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| About the Author darek wa 5th May 2009 1:13am #UserID: 2269 |
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| About the Author Val Perth 14th May 2009 6:09pm #UserID: 652 |
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amanda says... Hi Val - have same alkaline sandy soil problem - I have 15 citrus trees (in limestone soils - the worst for iron chlorosis) - all doing well 4 me now. When the trees where young i dug pits close by, filled them with compost n scraps and lots iron sulphate (and Zn sulphate too - the other criminal in alk soils) this got them going (free of interference from surrounding soil) while i improved the top-soil - I use lots of manure, clay, iron and Zn sulph but mulch with (acidic) pine bark for the long term solution. I also keep an eye on Manganese deficiency but have had no prob's yet. These 3 worst culprits in alkaline sandy loam. My trees 3 yrs old and got 2 full buckets off my west indian lime last week - so proud of myself/the tree!!. U can use agricultural sulphate to acidify soil too. The pine bark has worked so well that i now just chuck the iron and zinc sulphate on top and water the whole lot in. A few of my trees get burnt margins - this is usually a classic sign of K+ deficiency or salinity. I corrected for K+ to no avail - I realise now it's just simple sun n wind burn damage. Trees affected by this for my conditions are mainly the Fuyu, loquat, jaboticabas and grapes. As i have little luck with beans and avocados (which are very salt sensitive) I also hose my trees down now and then in the summer (i am close to ocean) I hope this is of some help. | About the Author amanda geraldton WA 14th May 2009 10:36pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Su WA 15th May 2009 2:02am #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author Lochy Sydney 2nd June 2009 4:05pm #UserID: 2416 |
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tt says... I have 3 Fuji persimmon trees (all about the same age) but only 2 of them started to bear fruits 2 year ago. The 3rd tree is the best looking tree but bears no fruits. 1. Most of the fruits started to drop on the ground in early June every year, so only about 10 fruits remain on each tree until ready to eat. What can be done to avoid losing the fruits so prematurely? 2. What kind of fertilization do I need to buy? and when should I apply the fertilization ? 3. Will the 3rd tree eventually bear fruit? The leaves are as big as an adult's hand size and the tree is thriving and growing very tall (over 12 ft) 4. Any particular mulch that I need to buy? Thank you so much for your help. I live in Memphis, TN | About the Author tt 14th June 2009 11:49am #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author jo broome 17th June 2009 1:12pm #UserID: 2468 |
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| About the Author jo broome 17th June 2009 1:58pm #UserID: 2468 |
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Andrew says... Hi Jo, Basically the difference between A and N/A is the tannin levels in the fruit themselves-with A types the fruit must be very very ripe and soft, with N/A it can be picked quite hard and from what i have heard tastes pretty good!!I think most persimmons are self pollinating .I am after a NA next as i have an A type "hichya" and would like to compare growth habits and the likes.Im not sure bout where and when in Broome, maybe the best bet is to ring Daleys and ask to talk to kath. There is dwarf/semi dwarf and full size so maybe depending where you are going to plant, would be best to ask some questions. Hope that helps Jo!! | About the Author Andrew newcastle 20th June 2009 2:21pm #UserID: 2234 View All Andrew's Edible Fruit Trees |
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DeannaTiffany says... My father and his four kids have picked persimmons from the one tree we have found here in TX for years, and two years ago, he found another. Someone is knocking the fruit off the tree prior to it ripening. I am thinking of buying him two persimmon trees off ebay for Christmas, because it wouldn't be Christmas without his persimmon cookies, and we have missed that the last two years. I have found conflicting ideas on the soil type for the American Persimmon tree. Can anyone help me? He said he grew one from a seed about 10 years ago, but it died. I am thinking he overwatered it, or the soil is wrong. I really want this to be a special present to him, as he never really gets a "cool" present from anyone. | About the Author DeannaTiffany Dallas, TX 19th November 2009 4:25pm #UserID: 3019 |
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amanda says... I have a Fuyu that I got at Bunnings a year ago - it was an advanced tree as that what all they had. I didn't hold out much hope for it here - but lo and behold - it is carrying about 8 fruit in it's first season and doing well. It's a pretty tough plant as it's sandy, windy, hot and salty here! | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 23rd December 2009 12:32pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author elie 30th December 2009 3:28pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author elie 30th December 2009 3:31pm #UserID: 0 |
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Randall says... Hi all, I need advice. In October 09 I planted this Non-A Fuyu and it seemed to grow well.... initially. I was away for 3 weeks over Xmas/New Year and don't believe our house sitter game my plants the love they deserved. We had a run of 40 plus days. When I returned I noted that many of the mature leaves had dry brown tips. I started watering deeply every couple of days and daily on the really hot days. I have now installed dripper irrigation and it gets about 6 litres over an hour. I have been watering every day or two depending o the max temp. The dry brown damaging has advanced to almost 50% of the majority of the leaves and the younger leaves are also appearing damaged (see pics). I fear that I may now be overwatering. Or perhaps the damage was done over Xmas and I just need to ride this season out. I planted it into good citrus soil and have mulched around the base. The base soil is classic perth coastal sand (sh_t). Would pH be an issue. HELP
| About the Author Randall Hamilton Hill, Perth 4th February 2010 11:34am #UserID: 3338 |
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Mish says... Hi Randall My Ichikikijiro did the same thing... although it was sunburnt when I purchased it from Tass1 Trees. I think wind burn is also a factor at the moment. Well I hope it is this and not something more sinister. I would love to show you a picture but all the damaged leaves have since blown off. There is a photo on my edibles page (just use the link on the right). My tree does have some new growth on the top, otherwise it is just a stick. They like acid to neutral (ph 6.5 - 7.0) well drained soil. Do not mulch too close to the trunk as they are susceptible to collar rot and root rot if they are over watered. I give mine a deep water once a week and a surface sprinkle when the temp is going to be over 33/34. I used Drought Shield on the new growth to help it retain leaf moisture from the heat and wind and so far they are still looking healthy, but it didn't do much for the damaged leaves. I will upload a picture later, and hopefully someone will confirm that it is no more than heat and wind damage and not a disease or something else. The picture is the one from my edibles page which I took a few weeks ago. I will post a recent one as soon as I can.
| About the Author Mish Singleton 4th February 2010 2:15pm #UserID: 3045 View All Mish's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Nick says... Today I bought a 1.5m tall bare-root Fuyu at Laverton Market. When I got home I immediately soaked the roots in a dilute liquid seaweed mix for 2 hours. Then because I don't have anymore room I planted it in a pot that is 47cm wide. Does anyone know what the age is roughly and how long before it flowers. Also are persimmons easy to grow in pots? | About the Author Nick Altona, VIC 24th July 2010 5:49pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author Glory Melbourne 11th May 2011 2:36pm #UserID: 0 |
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Jantina says... Glory, Hachiya is an astringent persimmon which means it needs to be super ripe at which time it is truly delicious. You can pick them when fully coloured and leave them in the fruit bowl until they are very soft and the skin is almost transparent. It's a bit like eating apricot jam. Nick I have seen persimmons growing and fruiting in large pots but they do better in the ground. | About the Author Jantina 11th May 2011 4:20pm #UserID: 0 |
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Maria says... Hi Everyone, I'm looking for the right Persimmon variety for my yard and could use some help. I'm in a bad fruit fly area but have enough cold in winter for a short reprieve. I was told by a friend to buy a late ripening astringent variety for that reason. It also needs to be fairly small. Does a Nightingale fit the bill? I don't know when it ripens or if I can harvest when still hard. Any other suggestions? Thanks. | About the Author Maria Kiama NSW 3rd January 2012 5:31pm #UserID: 6334 |
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john says... Yes, your friend is right . Astringents are less attractive to f.fly but not immune. Nightingale is semi dwarfing but mid season rather than late. i'd go for an astringent and not worry too much about ripening time as only the v. earliest might miss out on f.fly. Nightingale is of the v. best quality, by the way. Don't harvest earlier than full color development. | About the Author john 4th January 2012 10:14am #UserID: 0 |
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kim says... Hope you can help - i have just planted my nursery brought fuyu persimmon tree into the ground and its not looking too good. There are some new growth, so i'm happy with that, but most of the older leaves are browning around the edges - can anyone help advise what i need to do to help my persimmon? I'm watering once daily (early-mid morning) so i think its getting enough water. thanks. | About the Author kim perth 6th January 2012 3:00pm #UserID: 6174 |
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| About the Author john 6th January 2012 3:47pm #UserID: 0 |
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kim says... Thanks John. We did have some pretty hot days a week or so back, but my leaves actually went brown prior to the heatwave. Must be the drainage issue - i have been watering my tree with coffee grounds soaked in water overnight, so hopefully the soil is slightly on the acid side but didn't plant on a slope or mound (i only read about that part after my tree had gone into the ground). Next step is to invest in a soil testing kit - hope they're easy to use. :) | About the Author kim perth 7th January 2012 4:25pm #UserID: 6174 |
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amanda says... I can sympathise kim - I battled to keep my Fuyu going for 2yrs up here - but it croaked in the end...it was far too hot, salty and windy for it here. The leaves kept scorching and the fruit sunburning and dropping :-( I think I may have upset it with too much water and dynamic lifter this spring in an last ditch effort to get it going again - so it finally dropped dead (really fast) I am wondering if you should get some shade cloth over it for this first summer - and maybe ease up on fert's - just seasol and a little blood and bone now and then...? They don't like much salinity either....(so blood n bone a good choice for now - less likely to burn) Are u near the coast? Does it have any shade at all? Is it windy there? Be careful not to give it collar or root rot with all that watering... | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 7th January 2012 8:02pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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kim says... So sorry to hear your tree didn't make it - i'd always assumed that persimmon would be one of the easier trees to grow. A lady i used to work with wasn't much of a green thumb but her tree is absolutely stunning and is very prolific, so i'd assumed that i'd have the same success. i haven't started with the fertiliser yet (except for the coffee grounds)as i remember reading that new trees need to get used to the natural environment first(???) i will definitely be stocking up on seasol, so thanks for reminding me - when i last had a go at gardening a couple of years back propagating cuttings of various fruit trees, i remember i had some success using only seasol. should i be cutting back from the watering? i really don't want collar/root rot, but i'm scared the summer heat will kill it. i'm in the suburbs, so not too close to the coast and my little tree is kinda close to a wall so its somewhat sheltered from any strong breezes, but it is in full sun. on another note, my soursop, lychee and custard apple trees planted at the same time in the same area seems to be doing ok... at least they look alright... fingers crossed. | About the Author kim perth 8th January 2012 6:10pm #UserID: 6174 |
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amanda says... I don't know for sure kim.. :( I had/have lychee and custard apples in the same orchard too...they were easier for me than the Fuyu?! Mine was a PITA. Susanna Lyle states "..young trees do not like direct sun, or hot sun, whereas older trees do.....They are not tolerant of windy locations..." Otherwise they seem to be ok - but maybe someone else here is more familiar with any fussy habits they have? That's why I was thinking maybe you could get shade over it until it's older...? I'd try to keep the summer sun off it from noon-ish onwards.. A moisture probe ($10) from Bunnings or such should help u out with the watering...I would have thought once a day would be ample - but let the soil guide u. A bit of humidity around it on our scorching days would likely help too.. There is a product called Drought Shield which may or may not help also...it's like a sunblock for trees. | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 8th January 2012 6:46pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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kim says... I will definitely take your advice on board Amanda - here's to hoping my tree will make it to a fruitful maturity. i was just at Bunnings earlier today to buy my pH meter... i guess i should've picked up the moisture probe as well - i will definitely have to pick one up on my next trip... any excuse to check out the fruit trees section for new stock. :) Thanks for sharing your expertise with me - i will probably need to rely on you again in the near future. :) | About the Author kim perth 9th January 2012 1:59am #UserID: 6174 |
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| About the Author john 9th January 2012 10:26am #UserID: 0 |
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