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When to Feed and Prune a Mango Tree

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Stan Langlands starts with ...
Could you help me in what to feed mango tree and when to prune the tree if we have to and any general information that might help,as we are not sure what tree it is but it has nice fruit not many . We just mooved into this house about THREE years ago
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Stan Langlands
Gwandalan, NSW
27th July 2007 8:50am
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Kath says...
Healthy mango trees require very little pruning, although pruning to stimulate new growth reduces biennial bearing. Thinning young fruits in bumper years also reduces alternate bearing. When young, the trees can be pruned to 3-5 main scaffold branches, little pruning is needed after this. Young trees benefit from regular applications of nutrients.Initially young trees need more nitrogen; as trees mature, phosphate and potassium become more important. Try use a fertilizer that also supplies micronutrients, especially iron. Seaweed and fish fertilizers give good results.
From Discovering Fruit and Nuts by Susanna Lyle.
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Kath
Cawongla
1st August 2007 12:16pm
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Correy says...
I was listening to the Australia gardener Colin Cambel of mytalk 4bc and a lady rang up and said I have a mango tree about 2 meters high and I have only ever got 2 mangoes from it.

Col said that now was the best time to start your spraying program (Today in Australia is The end of August)

Seaweead extract needs to be sprayed every 3 weeks you can get one of the hose end sprayers of seasol and aim it over the trea and all of it will cover the tree.

Spray the flowers and the fruit with copper oxi choloride or fungi fighter (spelling?) and alternate weeks
mango zed (spelling) because what happens is that the fungi builds up an immunity to the copper oxi and you need this other one.

Then in december 1 and a quarter kg of citrus fertilizer.

I think I got thes chemicals wrong especially the "mango zed" can anyone clarify?
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Correy
Woolloongabba, QLD
19th August 2007 7:38am
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Anonymous says...
Our mango tree is dropping a lot of dead wood and is big and I think it needs to be proned or cut to a size where we may get some fruit.I haven't seen any fruit on it for around 5 years.Or even traces of the bats getting anything either.Has anyone got any sugestions? Ross
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33
sandgate Qld
14th March 2008 2:09pm
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Anonymous says...
Hello Corry, and Anonomous. Seaweed extract or seasol is used to simulate root growth. Its usefulness is once and therafter useless. It requires to be placed in the ground with lots of water. To fruit your probably missing pot ash and some trace elements. There is no use in spraying the tree untill the first signs of flowers. If you have a leaf problem then anytime will do. I dont think you need to do to much if the tree is 4 to 6 years old and bought as a seedling. If itfrom seed then it may just not grow fruit or may need a polinater, how ever even with all of this flowers should have been produced by now.
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15th March 2008 7:35am
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Correy says...
Just wondering why you seasol is only usefull once? Thanks for the tips though.
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Correy
Woolloongabba, QLD
15th March 2008 8:27am
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Anonymous says...
Hello Corry. The main usefulness of this product is to get the micro hairs or roots of a plant stimualated into fast growth or to help repair itself. These are the roots that absorbe most of the food and water. The large roots act as lungs do and swap air, which is why most trees dont like wet feet.
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15th March 2008 9:14am
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Gwen says...
I'm new to growing and planting tree. I have a mango tree that got anthracnose and I did some research and see that I have to spray with copper spray. The bottle did not say anything about mixing the content with water nor say where to spray. I sprayed my mango tree without mixing with water and the flowers dried and died the next day. Should I cut off the dead flower part? and where should I cut it? Thank you.
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Gwen
California
27th April 2008 10:52am
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Rae says...
Hi. I have been to a few training sessions with the makers of Seasol and have done some research on seaweed products. Seasol not only stimulates root growth, but flowering and fruiting as well. It contains plant hormones such as auxins and it actually thickens the walls of plant cells thus making pest and disease harder to take hold. Not only that, it stimulates the micro organisms in the soil thus helping organic matter break down. The alginins in seaweed extract also have similar benefits. Seaweed extract is a fantastic product. The Yates brand doesn't even smell that much!
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Rae3
Sydney
30th April 2008 11:09pm
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Beau says...
I highly recommend organic fertiliser's from Vitec Australia...
go to www.vitec.com.au

These products are naturally...the best!
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Beau
 
9th May 2008 10:45pm
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Lachlann says...
Gwen, sprays are highly toxic!! You could even make your soil toxic. Research has shown that home gardeners when they use sprays often overdo it 'cause they don't really know - so I suggest you research these things carefully when in doubt - the manufacturers usually give very good telephone advice. Hope you don't mind me saying this to you. Best wishes with it. Many of the guys on the Cloud Forest Cafe website live in your area and are very experienced. They may also be able to help with local advice.
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Lachlann
South Coast NSW
11th May 2008 8:39pm
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Anonymous says...
I am fairly new to gardening and am gardening in a small space as well as pots. My question is whether or not to water in seasol after planting citrus in a pot? I dont know if seasol is appropriate for most plants or not. Is seasol ok for citrus or is there something else I should use?
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9th June 2008 11:12pm
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Becc says...
I'm also new to mango farming, and although in feb. we has a great crop, as we had only brought the property year, prunning the tree is a little scary I'm not sure if I'm taking to much or to little. We fertilized with Nitrophoska Blue Special, recomanded by our local Landmark guys, just before the rain and it soaked in to the soil well. Our 120plus tree are about 2m high and we want to keep them at a good height to make picking easier on us. So any idaes about pruning would be appreicated
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Becc
southeast Queensland
10th June 2008 1:57pm
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Katie says...
I have a bowen special mango tree but it has got far too high for me to pick the fruit. How should I go about pruning to make it into a better size tree for picking fruit. Bares fairly well if I can beat the bats and possums.
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Katie
Maryborough SE Qld
15th June 2008 5:20pm
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trikus says...
I have seen a mango tree come back and bear fruit in 2 years after being chopped down to a 1m stump ! It was a fantastic tasting strawberry mango mmmmmmmmmmmm
I used to climb up into the tree and make little perches , and then prune all branches that made it difficult to reach or were out of reach . Open up the centre to make the tree like a vase gives more fruit as well . Fruit usually only forms on the outside , so low flat trees can give just as much fruit as a large ball [normal] shape .
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trikus
Tully
15th June 2008 9:16pm
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Lyn says...
My mother has a very large mango tree (25ft) in her yard in Nelson Bay NSW, she had it pruned by half 6mths ago (July 08)- there are no leaves on the tree, it had a few new shoots but they have fallen, all that is left are bare branches, will it ever recover??

Lyn
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Lyn3
Nelson Bay
26th January 2009 11:16am
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SlickMick says...
Hi Lyn,

The following link provides all you should want to know about pruning mangoes.

Perhaps your mother's tree will recover but if the new growth is dying it may have seen the last of its days. :(
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SlickMick
 
26th January 2009 2:18pm
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hayesnet says...
Hi, I am worried that my mango tree may be DEAD. We had a cold winter this year 27%, and even though I covered the roots as best I could, all the leaves turned brown and now the tree is bare. I cut it back a little hoping I would see some new growth-any suggestions?? Thanks, Hayesnet
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hayesnet
Winter Park, Fl.
25th March 2009 5:03am
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Jimmi says...
cut it back til you have green sappy tissue ie remove all dead stuff, feed it well, put a shelter made of polythene around it.

Should be good.
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25th March 2009 12:11pm
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Lyn says...
We lost the Mango, had it removed last month, thanks for all your info, but I think the man who trimmed it actually hacked it - he took it down by more than half, we are now looking to put something in its place - any suggestions?

Lyn
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Nelson Bay
9th April 2009 11:29pm
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Jose L. says...
Sorry for your mango, Lyn.
I suggest to get a dwarf mango that will grow not more than 10 feet, so you will never need prunings. Small mangos are Graham, Cogshall, Julie, Fairchild, Mallika, Carrie and Glenn.
Fairchild, Mallika, Carrie and Glenn have an excelent taste. 'Mallika'īs is superb, but to get the optimun flavor you have to pick the fruit mature green and keep it in a cardboard box for ten to twenty days till it rippens.
Their fruiting season for them is from June to July, 'Mallika' something latter, so if you want mango all year, you should plant:
'Carrie': Juny-July
'Mallika': late Juny-August
'Keitt': August-October
'Choc-Anon': November-January (also called 'Miracle', because it fuits in the winter, and often in the summer too).
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Jose L1
Spain
10th April 2009 7:20pm
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Brenden says...
Hello, I have a mango tree and the leaves are all curvy, it has been like this since I planted it in the ground is there something wrong.
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Brenden1
Townsville
15th April 2009 1:46pm
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Neil says...
Does pruning the centre of a mango tree improve yield
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Caloundra
21st April 2009 9:24pm
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hayesnet says...
Thanks Jimmi!! I did as you said and cut the Mango WAY back till there was signs of life. Now there are new shoots, and some new leaves forming at the base of my tree. I guess it's still ALIVE!!! Linda
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hayesnet
Winter Park, Fl.
23rd April 2009 10:42pm
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Mardy says...
Hi all, I have 2 backyard mango trees about 10 metres high each. Just moved into the house 6 months ago and had a few mangoes grow on it over the summer but overall not very healthy.

I've been cutting some dead looking branches right back to the main thick branch (not the stump, but the branches coming out of the stump). Is this a bad thing to do? I really have no idea.

There is just so much leaf growth and being a small yard i have to trim it back so it doesn't hang where it shouldn't. I dont need to trim the top like most people seem to talk about, but the sides.

Am i doing damage by cutting these branches back?

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Mardy
Gosford NSW
15th May 2009 2:29pm
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MO says...
WHEN LEAVES ARE CUVED THAT BAD USUALLY IT IS DUE TO ZINC DIFFICIANCY -SPRAY IT WITH TRACE ELIMENT IT WILL INCLUDE ZINC TOO
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MO
EGYPT
2nd June 2009 7:07am
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MO says...
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MO
EGYPT
2nd June 2009 7:08am
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MO says...
PRUNING THE CENTER IS GREAT . IT IS MOST IMPORTANT TO LET THE SUN PENETRATE BUT DONT OVER DO IT SO THE TREE DOES NOT SUFFER FROM THE COLD IN WINTER .PRUNING IS DONE IN WINTER -OCTOBER ,NOVEMBER EARLY DECEMBER
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MO
EGYPT
2nd June 2009 7:16am
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MO says...
Brenden ,curved leaves means zinc difficiency which is a trace element. You need to spray the tree with trace elements mixture solutin it will include zinc. this should do it .Any time early morning spray or afternoon not at high temp.
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MO
EGYPT
2nd June 2009 7:22am
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MO says...
Katie, if you prin one of your major branches that are going to high but at a point after any healthy growth or shoot this will cause the tree to shoot out from the lower trunck then the second year it will bear blossoms close to the ground - the thiker the branch you prune the more shouts U get at the lower end . the folowing year prune another major high branch prune october till mid december.Breed the lower part then donot scare.N.B. thick branches can be dangerous they also may flip in an elastic action in reaction to loosing this wieght so cut small lengths not as one piece job.
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MO
EGYPT
2nd June 2009 7:39am
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MO says...
Lyne choose a thick branch that is going too high 3 4 inches past a healthy growth ,shoot or medium branch and prune it there dont feel guilty. U should remove a thick branch.Also remove enough length not 1 meter minimum 2-2.5 meters if your tree is say 10 meters high,or it will be useless ,as it will grow them back by next year (have heart) the thicker the branch cross section ,the more shoots on the lower trunck you will get by sprin and summer the second year or next ,they will blossom close to the ground . next year You will do the same to another main branch with no hesitation I garantee.N.B.Beware that branches can have a spring action when it releases such a wieght suddenly.Get someone to chop it in more than one sectio unless he is an expert dont forget to cut above a growth with 4 inches so it doese not dry.
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MO
EGYPT
2nd June 2009 8:05am
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MO says...
Becc atree that high is either 5 years old or aone of those short brands in all cases it does not need much pruning.prune only in winter when there is not much flow in the sap.Prune enough to get sun penetration throgh the tree or any obviosly irregular growths 20 centimeters below the growth
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MO
EGYPT
2nd June 2009 8:21am
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MO says...
Gwen,copper oxichlorates should be sprayed for anthracnose imediatly after winter pruning as protection say by November to mid December.then by Febreuary add to the copper sulphur (micronic).Do not use copper products while blossom this can cause infirtility.IMPOrtant:
1- never spray in the heat ,only early morning or afternoon .
2-Never spray a plant that has not been watered recently 1-3 days.
3-Most of copper oxide products use 10 centiliter to 1 liter water i.e. 1 copper to 100 water or 10 copper to 1000 water.
4-as for sulphur added 2.5 grams/liter water(1000 centiliter)
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MO
EGYPT
2nd June 2009 9:06am
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MO says...
Ross , mangos out live peaple
1- prune any dry twigs or minor dry branches in October-November.
2-could sound like to much water -This would rot the roots and accordingly paralise and dry the branches
3-either to frequent irrigation or no drainaige in soil.
4- fall and winter-starting december you may make it a habit not to irrigate about 60 days in a row then at 25-30 day according to weather-decreasing the period to abot 10 days in spring then 8
while it grows the mangos then graduate from 8-15 2nd 20 fromjuly to october
5- treatment of root decay can be with antifungal spras at root + good nutrition.
5-weater should not reach the tree trunck when irrigating - U should make a barier with the soil a circle of radius 80-100cm around the tree to keep the water away from the trunck
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MO
EGYPT
2nd June 2009 9:43am
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Patricia says...
Mancozeb is the product that Col Campbell mentioned.
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22nd September 2009 6:29am
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Jess says...
Hi. I have just bought a house an am lucky enough to have found what I think may be a huge mango tree in the back yard (although I could be wrong?) It has just started to bear fruit, it has hundreds with the largest about 3cms long. Is there anything I can do at this stage to help it bear healthy fruit? Does it need much water as climatic conditions are quite dry? Thanks!
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Jess3
Gold Coast
4th October 2009 2:47pm
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Jess says...
second photo for good measure
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Jess3
Gold Coast
4th October 2009 2:50pm
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Wayne says...
Put the sprinkler on under it Jess and give it a nice water, it will love you for it by the looks, but don't over do it. It's a beaut, healthy young tree that will give lots of fruit for many years. Mangoes do not like to much water so always keep it on the dry side, that is why they grow so well in Bowen.
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Wayne1
Mackay QLD
4th October 2009 5:09pm
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Jess says...
Thanks Wayne!
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Jess3
Gold Coast
7th October 2009 9:41pm
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Karals says...
I bought a house in 2006,in 2007 Ihad a wonderful crop of mangoes,in 2007 I had a few mangoes around 10,in 2009 I had wonderful crop of flowers,numerous small fruits appeared I was expcting a bumper harvest,rather dissapointed all of them dropped & have a almost 10 fruits.I use Worm fertilizer & also add Bokashi contents & also citrus fertiliser.
I would appreciate if I could some advice as why the small fruits drop(may be unfertilized)& whether I should add some trace elements.
Thanks,
Karals
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Karals
Sydney,NSW
16th December 2009 10:40am
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Brad says...
Flower and/or fruit drop is often a lack of water. There's conflicting information out there on mangos (keep the dry vs water well), but a well established mango needs the occasional deep water, but they hate wet feet.

So if you have clay soil be a little careful, but otherwise try giving them a deep soaking once a week, with a basin or similar to stop the water running off. (e.g. let a tap drip or trickle for a long time)

Unfortunately if ALL the fruit have dropped off this year, you won't need this in 09, but if there's some still on the tree, this might help it keep them. In 2010, do this when the tree starts to flower until the fruit is ready.
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Brad2
Como, Perth
16th December 2009 12:55pm
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Baz says...
Thanks for that Brad. I'm never too sure with the watering cyle. The last couple of years I have had fruit drop when they're about 1-2cm and I am wondering if it was either lack of or too much. This year though I decided to give a drench more often and have'nt lost any as yet, touchwood.

When they're in the fruiting cyle are you surposed to feed them at all with some NPK and/or trace elements ?



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Perth
16th December 2009 4:54pm
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Brad says...
My dad-in-law (the actual mango expert and also in Perth) fertilizes his earlier in the spring and would only use liquid feed now. If the tree doesn't look great, maybe a weak feed with trace elements now?
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Brad2
Como, Perth
16th December 2009 6:22pm
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Nathan says...
Does anyone know a place to buy a mango tree with a cheap price on the sunshine coast?
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Nathan3
Sunshine Coast
8th April 2010 9:54pm
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kjki says...
Manzeb
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26th July 2010 10:45am
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volitans says...
We have 2 decent mango trees but our problem is those bl*^#y blue faced honey eaters!. Every year there are a flock of them getting into the tree knocking off the fruit before it's ripe for picking. The tree is too large to net, I've covered it before in plastic snakes, flashing (sun reflecting ) old CDs, ribbons but nothing keeps them out.
This year we HAD about 60 - 80 mangoes on the trees. So far we've managed to beat the birds to 5 and there's about a dozen left. The ground is littered with mangoes with beak holes in them.
Any suggestions (short of shooting the flaming birds)?
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volitans
Townsville
17th November 2010 11:08am
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margi says...
trikus - i am desperate to get a strawberry mango seedling or graft, but haven't been able to find one. i'm opeful after reading your comment. any chance of getting a seddling from under that tree??
thanks
margi
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margi
northern nsw
25th January 2011 12:12pm
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kparkypark says...
Hi there, end of summer we heavily pruned our Mango tree as it was MASSIVE hoping that we could have a more 'condensed' tree as it was encroaching on the neighbours yard.

We have had a fairly wet winter and now we have lots of little growths coming out of the stumps, but they seem to be burning off, we also have had a very unseasonal hot couple of weeks too so perhaps they were a bit 'burned'

I don't know what to do? have we lost this tree or can it be rescued? Any Suggestions would be very helpful.
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kparkypark
Empire Bay
14th August 2011 7:16am
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Isa says...
I have a 4 year old mango tree grown from seed Melbounre. It is growing on our north facing wall of the house. It now,(August 2011),has many flowering heads but the top half of the tree has all the leaves limp and nearly dead. Some of the leaves, in the whole tree, have black spots. Any medication or fertilisers need to be natural and not chemical to meet our needs. Would anyone help to revitalise this tree.
Many thanks.
Isa
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Isa
Melbourne
29th August 2011 11:30am
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Trimmed says...
Trees are funny how they act to climate change and how they are treated. The tree may be in shock due to the amount of branches removed. I have a few trees and find that its best to look at the tree like a pie from above. Only trim 1/3 of the tree at a time this can help to get fruit the next year. Remember if you remove alot of leaves the tree takes longer to heal. It will also skip a year of fruit due to less supporting canopy.
The tree is likely just in shock,if you
still have adult leaves on the tree and new leaves then the tree is working on making a come back. At this time its a good idea not to fertilize the tree or water to much. Would be nice to see a picture of the tree, makes it easier to solve the issues you may be facing.
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Trimmed
florida
16th September 2011 2:09pm
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db says...
Hi All, I just planted grafted Mango tree in a pot. Is it OK to give Seasol for first couple of months, may be once a week? or seasol is not suitable for mango tree? Thanks.
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Db
Brisbane
20th February 2012 9:09am
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BJ says...
db, that is fine. Also, give it an extra seasol on days like today, when new plantings are gonna suffer.
Add some powerfeed to the seasol later as seasol is a tonic and not really a fertiliser, but is perfect for settling in new plantings/pottings.
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BJ
Brisbane
20th February 2012 9:21am
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db says...
Thanks BJ, I'll give seasol once I'm home today, I planted it yesterday evening.. I've read Mango trees don't need any fertilizers, even in a pot if potting mix has good fertilizers in it, so that's incorrect right? For how long I should keep giving seasol and when should I start with powerfeed?
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Db
Brisbane
20th February 2012 9:26am
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BJ says...
Yes, they are dead wrong. Most potting mixes contain enough ferts for a few months. The premiums for 6 months, the pro mixes for 9-12 months. But that is for an ordinary plant, and you need extra food if you want a plant to give you a good amount of fruit. with a mango, and especially in a pot, you should feed it little and often. The 'nutrition' part of this doc is a good indicator, but in a pot you should give it the same amount, but spaced out more, as they are easily burnt in pots http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0006/119787/mango-growing.pdf
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BJ
Brisbane
20th February 2012 9:04pm
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Db says...
Thanks BJ, that link was useful. Do u have any advice on how long I should keep giving seasol before starting any fertilizers? ( not just for mango but in general as for any fruit tree )
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Db1
 
21st February 2012 8:22am
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ScottA says...
Hi There, ive been fertalizing and watering an inherited Mango tree for 4 years. It looks like it has just started to fruit. Lots of them in fact! So many that i did wonder if they were fruit at first but some are definitly starting to look like little Mangoes (excuse my excitment).

Is this the usual time for fruiting in NSW (Early December), i dont know what type of tree i have.

Is there anything special/ important i need to do now the tree is fruiting. Its about 2m tall.

I have had trouble with blackened leaves for two years so i have sprayed white oil a few times which seems to have cured most of the tree.

Thanks
SA
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ScottA
Sydney
2nd December 2012 9:21pm
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David_WM says...
All sounds good Scott. Its about the right time for southern regions. I've heard the flowering is aprox a week later in the year for every degree latitude south you go. The blackening you had is probably anthracnose. You can spray with copper oxychloride and mangozeb to help keep it away. A lot of those small fruit should fall off, but that is normal. Good luck
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DavidWM1
Perth
3rd December 2012 1:18am
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