326 responses
Bruce Ramsay starts with ... I have an large Kensington Pride mango tree, approx. 12metre. In the just competed season I have had a reasonable crop of fruit however ther appears to be a disease causing the leaves to drop and the tips of new branches to die back. When pruned there is a brown discolouration in the affected branches. Q1:- If I prune back to good wood and tree bandage where cut, is there a chance that I can contain this rot? Q2:- Does anyone know what the problem its and cure? | About the Author Bruce Ramsay Gayndah Queensland 31st January 2008 2:42pm #UserID: 629 |
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Kath says... It sounds like anthracnose or black spot, this diseases in the mangos will be a real problem this year because of all the wet weather. Head down to your local agricultural store to see if they can recommend a treatment for you. As we are not licensed to sell chemicals I am afraid I am not allowed to recommend a solution for you. | About the Author Kath Cawongla 15th February 2008 10:16am #UserID: 2 View All Kath's Edible Fruit Trees |
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John says... I have the exact same problem, the leaves turn brown and die off with the branch rotting with what seems to be the bark getting stripped down to teh core. I've been cutting off branches as soon as it appears but does not seem to stop the disease. Kath, do you know of a good agricultural store in sydney?? flowerpower and bunnings are useless as they know nothing about this sort of stuff. | About the Author John Sydney 15th March 2008 9:56am #UserID: 773 |
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| About the Author Maryanne ashfield sydney 8th October 2008 10:38pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author Maryanne ashfield 8th October 2008 10:39pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author Wayne 10th October 2008 5:59am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Steven says... A dis-ease in any living thing is just that...dis-ease. Mangoes are generally quite hardy. BUT growing them in a location where they will be at-ease is very important. Warm climate, Northern aspect, good drainage etc etc. Even then, such problems will arise...my tree has signs of leaf damage(dry,brown,crispy burnt look) in areas...other parts of the tree are lush and full of growth! This is ones lot growing (sub)/tropical fruit down South. | About the Author Steven Quakers Hill, Sydney 16th October 2008 10:05pm #UserID: 1527 |
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Jeff says... Hi, have problem with my mango tree. The leaves are going brown and dry at the ends and then continues to die until they fall off. Also have lots of dead branches in the tree. Got heaps of fruit off it but looks very sick (see photos). Any help will be greatly appreciated.
| About the Author Jeff Port Hedland, WA 4th December 2008 3:06pm #UserID: 1731 |
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| About the Author Vicki Northampton WA 2nd August 2009 10:18am #UserID: 2608 |
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amanda says... Hi Vicki and Jeff - I hope your problem is not the same as mine - what kind of water are u irrigating with? I have same problem on mangoes n a few others. I recently had the (scheme) water tested and it's full of chloride. There is quite a bit of sodium (thus: salt) in it too. These two cause tip burn on leaves that progresses to the margins and eventually death n drop of the leaves. It starts on the oldest leaves and progresses to young ones eventually if bad enough. Rains will flush the soil and gypsum helps. It's worth getting your water checked (ours above WHO recommendations on a few things - I have complained to water corp - they "looking into it") | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 2nd August 2009 10:33am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... PS Vicki - your water is same as mine now..goes right past my house on NWC Hwy! My soil test showed chloride levels that I am waiting for an agronomist to explain - who did your soil test? (Jeff - your tree looks burnt on one side? have u had some bad winds? have you tried leaving the hose trickling on it overnight once or twice a week for a few weeks?) | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 2nd August 2009 10:40am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Vicki says... Amanda, we have our own bore and aren't on scheme water, salt was the first thing we looked into, there is practically no salt in the water. Landmark did the soil and leaf testing. And it showed nothing. We even took the reading up to Carnarvon, to get a mango grower friend have a look, he just wished his soil was as good as ours. At first we thought it was chemical burn, but no body is spraying around us. Not getting enough water is the only thing we can think off, but as you know we have had heaps of rain recently. | About the Author Vicki Northampton WA 2nd August 2009 10:51am #UserID: 2608 |
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amanda says... Hi Vicki - that's really interesting! As we are so close - we may b having the same problem - are u able to post a photo? I'd love to b able to compare - and I have seen this on someone elses tree in Grenough too. You are so lucky to have good bore water! Landmark referred me to an agronomist in Perth (who specialises in Horticulture) for interpretation of the results (CSBP test) I am waiting for his input. I am a novice at these - but from what I can gather - what is in the soil is not necessarily what is "available" to the plant - but if your leaf test ok - then that really only leaves mechanical damage (wind)/water stress type issues I would have thought? Are u close to ocean at all? My studies on this have turned up deficiencies of magnesium or potassium in the main, with calcium a second option. I have been giving my 3 KP's a good soaking as I still don't think they are getting enuf' water. They used to flood irrigate in Carnarvon! Don't know if they still do (have an ex-mangoe grower friend from there too!) Stay in touch won't u - we may be able to get to the bottom of it - and it would b helpful for others. :) | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 2nd August 2009 11:09am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Vicki says... Will take some photo's later today. We have also thought wind, they only get the southerly, today is blowing easterly, and the trees that get hammered with the easterly aren't affected. Last summer we gave them plenty of water and they improved, but with winter rains, stopped watering, put them on for about 4 hours yesterday. And we are right in town, so not getting ocean winds or salt, we fertilise with NPK blue and Urea, we alternate, our friend in Cvon also gave us a bag of what he uses there, but not sure what that is made up off. We also spray for anthracnose, at the moment we do this every 3 weeks. Our trees are from 10 - 12 years old. It has really only been this bad since we went into drought, what would that be the last 5/6 years. None of the other trees are affected like this. The chain saw will be sharpened up if they don't start improving. It is good talking to some one close by, who understands the wind, water and soil of this area. When I have phone ag dept ususally get told to phone Kununurra who's soil, wind and water probs are nothing like here. There was a great guy in Cvon but he retired and only does consult work now, but what he didn't know wasn't worth knowing | About the Author Vicki Northampton WA 2nd August 2009 12:12pm #UserID: 2608 |
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amanda says... Hi again Vicki - what was the soil salt level on your results? (mine "Intermediate") Did u fertilise before you turned retic off? When did u fert last? Have u put anything else on them at all? Are the affected trees in any way different as to slope, at end of retic line, front-line sun/wind? I'm thinking of a temporary fertiliser "salts" (not NaCl) build up combined with inadequate water that may have caused a reverse-osmosis (ie: water coming out of the plant due to high salts in soil and low salts in plants) I tend to fert in winter mainly cos it's cool for me :) and the rain is helpful for when i renovate the mulch. I have been wondering tho' about something Speedy mentioned about watering thru' the rain (initially) as salt gets washed back into the root zone (by the rain) causing this kind of damage. The idea is to flush it away into the subsoil. (Perhaps my trees are getting a double-whammy!?) When I say "salt" - this can also be fertiliser salts. Perhaps with the extra dry conditions it would be preferable to fert little and often, and water well. I will ask agronomist too (Jeff - I have posted your photo to him too) Maybe we could ask Speedy too. | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 2nd August 2009 3:50pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Vicki says... Me again, ok have done some pics, the salt content in the soil was minimal, we don't over fertilise, and when we do we don't give them heaps at once, we gradually do it. And we look at the trees to see whether we think they need fertilising, ie the colour of the tree, pale green rather than dark green. And as for a pattern there is not one, there can be a crap tree and next to it can be 4 good ones and other way round. 20 feet away is a different patch and they are beautiful looking trees. We had previously mulched the trees, it is just about disolved at the moment. Vicki
| About the Author Vicki Northampton WA 2nd August 2009 5:04pm #UserID: 2608 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 2nd August 2009 7:27pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Vicki says... Aaron was the agronomist that came and visited us, he actually told us it was salt, but there was little salt (around 400 per million grains) in the water, and then why are they the only ones suffering if you look 20 ft away the trees are going mad,the pic taken is if you look to the right are the sick trees and to the left are as healthy as any thing, same water same fertiliser. So has us stumped
| About the Author Vicki Northampton WA 2nd August 2009 8:18pm #UserID: 2608 |
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amanda says... Yea - see what u mean Vicki! I honestly don't know - my only suggestions are to check/measure the output of the drippers/sprayers (use bucket or such) to make certain they (sick ones) are getting the same amount of water compared to the others. I have divined the water running under our block and it's quite obvious where it is and isn't (easy to do yourself) I do wonder tho' if the ground water is suffering with this drought - it can make all the difference to the survival of some trees. It's a long shot but maybe the guys on the right are 'missing out' due to levels dropping. I know there has been problems with this in Northampton and my area too. You may want to try a slow trickle on one sick tree - leave overnight a cupla times a week for a few weeks and see what happens to new growth and the presently un-burnt growth. It could b a worthwhile experiment. | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 2nd August 2009 8:43pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 2nd August 2009 8:48pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi Vicki - me again! ... I have done some more googling but keep turning up the same stuff (apart from salinity)...magnesium or potassium deficiency.... also of interest is that excess nitrogen is antagonistic to potassium uptake - giving similar symptoms. It might pay to drop the Urea from the sick ones for awhile? This is something I have copied out of one site: Irrigation management and drainage are important factors in minimising salt build-up in the root zone. Salting of orchards in inland irrigation areas can occur when the salt-laden groundwater table rises towards the tree roots. Another cause is the concentration of salt into the ‘dry bone’ areas of the rows, particularly unwetted areas under the trees where furrow irrigation is practised. Faulty distribution of water from spray irrigation systems because of low pressure, strong winds, or too few spray heads, is another way that salt accumulates in localised areas. I am really keen to see if your drippers/sprayers are distributing evenly and same volume. I won't post my e-mail here - but maybe thru Correy (webmaster) we could get in touch? It would b great to solve this problem as we 'know' what we are on about with our conditions here ;) I really do believe there is a 'burn' mechanism of some sort involved tho' - either 'salt' or lack of water etc... Sorry about long posts - I just haven't come across anyone (yet) with the same problem. I am tenacious if nothing else and determined to sort this out...! | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 3rd August 2009 12:30am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi Vicki - I popped into ThinkWater in Gero 2day to ask about bore water...the conversion table converts 400 grains/gallon to nearly 7,000 mg/L (or ppm)total dissolved solids. To compare with Gero town water at 1,000 mg/L. The upper limit for humans is 1,100 and horses (for eg) 5,500. Unfortunately plants don't have kidneys so accumulate salts in the bark and leaves. It may be really worthwhile getting a water testing kit ($66) from them and finding out what exactly is in your bore water (as 400 grains is equivalent to 20% seawater!) I realise that some trees ok - but if the drippers/sprayers are not working properly etc then this could make all the difference..also if soil has become water repellant under the sick one's etc. I hope this is of some use..I can't think what else it could be? Did u get the actual sick leaves tested? | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 3rd August 2009 6:43pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi Vicki - I hope u r still out there? See above - but also I found this amazing document - it's a bit heavy in some parts but there is a few gems of info in there (see section 4) Mangoes are salt sensitive like citrus (and almost all fruit trees) - so the leaf anlaysis should translate. http://www.fao.org/docrep/003/t0234e/T0234E03.htm | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 6th August 2009 10:16am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John Sydney 8th August 2009 3:46pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 9th August 2009 9:33am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi Jeff n Vicki...Mum reminded me 2day about her mangoe tree outside their bathroom - they had the shower water diverted to the plant permanently..It grew at an amazing rate (in high wind in Carnarvon)...and fruited really well. (was an R2E2). Grey water is pretty low quality - so maybe our problems are just a lack of water? I am going to up the ante on mine this summer..will post pics one day! | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 9th August 2009 6:06pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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nike64 says... I have a mango tree which is 1/2 a year old and it looks bad. What disease does it have and what is a solution? P.S. I originally thought it was a iron deficiency P.P.S. Has it got something to do with my location, season etc. P.P.P.S. All the new leaves/ shoots have turned black at the tip!
| About the Author nike64 Altona, VIC 14th August 2009 7:21pm #UserID: 2663 |
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| About the Author nike64 Altona, VIC 14th August 2009 7:25pm #UserID: 2663 |
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JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE says... Hi nike64, I think the cold weather affects your mango tree. Spring is just around the corner so hopefully your tree will grow back with new shoots coming out. If I was you I would give it plenty of dynamic lifter in mid Spring to make it grow stronger before the next winter comes. All the best. | About the Author JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE Melbourne 14th August 2009 7:58pm #UserID: 2706 View All JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi nike64 - your tree looks nitrogen deficient.... try giving it a bit of manure or fertiliser - not too much as the weather is too cold for any real growth yet and water well - clear the weeds around the tree a bit wider than you have now. If u haven't added any nitrogen source at planting then that woodchip may be causing nitrogen deficiency. | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 15th August 2009 9:17am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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nike64 says... O.K. I got rid of the mulch and got rid of more weeds. My dad thought I should use grass clippings instead of the wood and I discovered some Thrive Soluble Plant Food with 19.31 percent Nitrogen. Also we have some compost. Would all this be ok? (I know this is off topic but Im also going to grow another tree from seed and I need a germination method cause last year it failed!) | About the Author nike64 Altona, VIC 15th August 2009 12:20pm #UserID: 2663 |
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| About the Author nike64 Altona, VIC 15th August 2009 1:16pm #UserID: 2663 |
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John says... I went to a nursery but I could not find any bordeaux/kocide but I found a product called Mancozeb.It seems to say all the right things on the label. Is it ok? I will try it for the comming season but I am concerned the tree may already be too diseased. If it doesnt work perhaps next year I could heavily prune the tree to get rid of most of the disease and ensure I spray all new foliage. | About the Author John Sydney 16th August 2009 1:13pm #UserID: 2671 |
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Julie says... John,it depends if you are trying to grow organically. If so, this would be a no-no. Mancozeb is a commonly used fungicide for this purpose. Mangoes are notorious for anthracnose, which is what your symptoms sound like, though I think there some more resistant varieties around. Anthracnose can be caused by wet conditions around flowering and fruit set. You will have to spray every four weeks till harvest. | About the Author Julie Roleystone WA 16th August 2009 3:22pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author John Sydney 17th August 2009 12:19pm #UserID: 2671 |
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Julie says... 'Till harvest' means up to when you pick the fruit, so yes, I guess so. From 'What Garden Pest or Disease is That?': 'The fungus lives in dead parts of the plant, and spores are spread from these areas to leaves, fruit and flowers by water splash. Prune off all dead plant parts. Spray with Mancozeb at the rate of 2g per litre every week while the blossoms are on the tree, then every four weeks until harvest. If weather is dry when the plant blossoms, fewer sprays may be required'. | About the Author Julie Roleystone WA 17th August 2009 6:17pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 17th August 2009 9:30pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE Melbourne 17th August 2009 9:46pm #UserID: 2706 View All JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 17th August 2009 9:58pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE Melbourne 17th August 2009 10:10pm #UserID: 2706 View All JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Paul says... Hi, I have a problem with a mango tree that is few years old. Currently in a pot, looking to put into the ground very soon if possible. The stem looks ok, although it doesn't sit very firmly in the pot. We've had a fair bit of wind and rain in the last few weeks, but this problem has been around for a month or so now. All the leaves seem to be affected, turning brown/black and dying... there are some black marks on the branches too. I've been looking at the photos posted here so far, but none seem to quite match what i'm seeing. Is this anthracnose? Should I be removing all the leaves and cutting back the branches? (there may not be much left!!) thanks very much, Paul
| About the Author Paul Perth 18th August 2009 4:56pm #UserID: 2685 |
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amanda says... Hi Paul...if it were my tree I would bin it and the soil it's in...and then plant a new, healthy tree straight into the ground. It will take a lot of effort to make the one above into a healthy tree again (and a lot of chemicals too) It's an advanced fungal infection (probly due to waterlogging - did u have a dish under the pot?) and the soil may transmit the disease to your garden too. But - lets see what others think..? :) | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 18th August 2009 5:21pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Paul Perth 18th August 2009 7:28pm #UserID: 2685 |
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| About the Author Cuong Wilson, Western Australia 18th August 2009 8:52pm #UserID: 2684 |
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Paul says... Hi Cuong, The ideal mango variety for me, is one that will give me mangos and won't die! I'm new at this, so ideally I'd like to get *any* success. Would it be ok to post up pictures of my other fruit trees, and see what you guys think? eg, I have a custard apple that won't grow up. cheers Paul | About the Author Paul Perth 18th August 2009 9:50pm #UserID: 2685 |
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| About the Author Cuong Wilson, Western Australia 19th August 2009 12:25am #UserID: 2684 |
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Vicki says... Hi Amanda, My computer crashed and have just got it back, have just gone thru all old posts. We are thinking the sad trees must be water deprived, although these trees got more water than others, it mustn't been getting enough. And because they were not the healthiest, when the winter diseases came in they copped the lot. Hubby has been spraying them for anthracnose and giving them a bit more than the other trees, still looking a bit sadder than the others. Will see how they go when the weather improves. Vicki | About the Author Vicki Northampton 27th August 2009 11:19am #UserID: 2608 |
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amanda says... No prob's Vicki - wondered where u got to!? In your pic above it looks like grass clippings around the tree? Also - did u dig around the plants to check soil not water repellant? It's bloody frustrating isn't it!? I am having trouble getting my mangoes up n running too...something just not right here...and yet other fruit trees doing really well. Goodluck hey...if u crack the problem let me know please!! :) | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 27th August 2009 10:30pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Vicki says... Hello again, not grass at bottom of the trees but barley mulch. Soil around trees is nice and damp, have dug down fair way and moisture getting there. A couple of years ago we were having water probs (not much there) but put a new bore down and now have plenty, but when the worry was there we cut back on the watering, which may have caused trees to go back wards. But the past couple of years they have been getting the water, although hubby says they still need more, but still only that patch of about 75 trees. All other trees looking good, a little bit of anthracnose but it is to be expected with the wind and cold. But we will wait until spring see how they go. We get a magazine from the Mango Assoc, there was an article about another disease which is similar but they didn't say what to use on it. Will check out there web site and see if any thing on it. vicki | About the Author Vicki Northampton 28th August 2009 2:00am #UserID: 2608 |
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amanda says... Hey Vicki - the guys at CRT (Great Northern Rural) were telling me that unless the bore water under 130 grains - then u can get a build up of salts over a period of time - maybe worth filing away for next years break-of-season... and "water thru" the first rains on a few trees to see if it makes a difference. I am going to try this next year for my trees (it's gonna be hard tho'... it goes against everything we are told to do in order to conserve water...!?) One scientific source I read also talked about salt being stored in the bark and tissues of the trees...all ok until tree water stressed - then tree suddenly 'burns'. Trees will take up sodium in excess if there is low potassium also. I also read info on lack of nitrogen aggravating sodium uptake. This may not be your problem - but it's interesting info I guess. Your trees look really healthy apart from the burning - but I can also add that I have had problems with anthracnose all thru my grevillias over the last 2 yrs...(I don't treat it as they don't seem bothered by it as yet) According to Kerry at Yetna - it's been a common problem lately. | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 28th August 2009 6:39pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Vicki says... I mentioned the book that we get thru Mango assos, got new one on Friday and they have an article on exactly what our trees are looking like. It is called Bacterial necrosis. There was article on it in a previous magazine but didn't say what the cure was, this one trials were done in WA just north of Perth (Gin Gin?). About to do some googling. Will let you know. Vicki | About the Author Vicki Northampton 29th August 2009 10:50am #UserID: 2608 |
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amanda says... That's great Vicki! Thanks heaps - I will google too.... haven't read about that b4 (not in association with mangoes anyway) The Ag dept will probably be very keen to look at samples of your leaves for free if u send some down to Perth: Pest and Disease Information Service: 1800 084 881 They were very thorough with my passionfruit virus specimens - even sent them off the Curtin Uni for anlaysis. | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 29th August 2009 11:07am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 30th August 2009 12:38pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Vicki Northampton 31st August 2009 11:10am #UserID: 2608 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 31st August 2009 5:03pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Michael says... Hi All, I live in suburbian Sydney and all the mango trees are in full bloom right now . Last year my tree only produce 3 mangoes from such a large tree. I did remember is was a very wet summer last year. To all the mango expert out there is there anything we can do to get higher mango yields ? ie like adding certain trace elements to the water,fertilise at certain times or maybe just increase the water supply .Please help ? | About the Author Michael Wakeley 31st August 2009 10:44pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author Ellen Smithfield 1st September 2009 12:49am #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author nike64 Altona, VIC 6th September 2009 2:35pm #UserID: 2663 |
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| About the Author John Castle Hill NSW 9th September 2009 12:36pm #UserID: 2671 |
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Wayne says... I wouldn't worry about them John, all mango trees are early this year, we already have fruit on the market from the NT. The tree will reject them if things aren't right. I don't know where Castle Hill is but northern NSW should harvest around February I think. Take about three months off that and that's when you tree should be flowering. | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 9th September 2009 5:48pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John Castle Hill NSW 10th September 2009 12:10pm #UserID: 2671 |
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| About the Author Michael Wakeley 10th September 2009 8:56pm #UserID: 1746 View All Michael's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Michael Wakeley 10th September 2009 9:06pm #UserID: 1746 View All Michael's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 11th September 2009 7:02am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John Castle Hill NSW 11th September 2009 6:36pm #UserID: 2671 |
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John I. says... Well I have sprayed Mancozeb once a week for 6 weeks. I will now move to once a month until harvest. Its starting to look promising. Of course some of the damaged branches and leaves are still there but there is a lot of new growth and flowers are really coming out now. There has not been a lot of rain so the spray has been very effective. I will keep you posted from time to time. | About the Author John I. Castle Hill NSW 19th September 2009 3:00pm #UserID: 2671 |
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| About the Author nike64 Altona, VIC 10th October 2009 8:26pm #UserID: 2663 |
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Michael says... I'm not sure if this would work but for every mango branch with tiny fruits on it I only leave 5 fruits at the most. I figured that if there are less fruits on the branch then the remaining ones will have a better chance to grow bigger and stronger.Last year I have so many tiny mangoes on each branch and they all grew to around a plum size and just drop off. Only a few survived into full mango sizes. | About the Author Michael Wakeley 14th October 2009 12:58pm #UserID: 1746 View All Michael's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author nike64 Altona, VIC 16th October 2009 7:58pm #UserID: 2663 |
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| About the Author nike64 Altona, VIC 16th October 2009 7:59pm #UserID: 2663 |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 16th October 2009 8:44pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Kevin says... Hey guys, I recently bought a Rosigold mango tree from a nursery in Orlando. It is about a meter tall and a year and a half old according to the nursery. I noticed it has some black spots on some of the leaves and stem. I was wondering if you could tell me if you think they are indicative of some kind of fungus/disease/pest. I uploaded some pictures to a website to save you time downloading them. You can click on them to see them in high resolution. The tree is currently located in Tampa. website: http://kevinsmangotree.blogspot.com/ Thanks so much for your help!!!! | About the Author Kevin Tampa, FL 24th October 2009 4:12am #UserID: 2938 |
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Brendan says... Hi Kevin, Being in a pot it's hard to say, but my guess is anthracnose. Without spraying (?), I'd apply some gypsum to the pot and water it in. If you can get liquid gypsum, even better. Maybe a good time to re-pot it, making sure you remove ALL the old potting mix. Use a premium potting mix and a pot 1/3 larger. | About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 24th October 2009 7:40am #UserID: 1947 |
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Claudine says... Hiya, i have a mango tree i bought in k-mart nursery in Karratha W.A. 2004,it didnt have a tag telling me the type, so im unsure.it was around 50cm tall,when i bought it.it was just thin and bendy for a long time and reaching for the sun,i moved back to perth in 2006 and cut the trunk in half, hoping for the best,and this made it branch finally! and with water only really,i have just started to give it a bit more 'love'in the last year, with a bit of liquid trive.it has been going really well since, still in a pot, but now is browning on the edges of the leaves and has started to get dark purple/black branches,starting to flower,but dont think they are looking too good and wont stay on for long. it has never given me fruit and as i LOVE MANGO it would be fantastic to actually grow my own! Please help, it is my pride and joy, id hate for it to die. | About the Author Claudine Australia 1st November 2009 1:14pm #UserID: 2966 |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 1st November 2009 5:56pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Claudine says... thanks for the reply wayne! im not too sure that that is the problem as i did actually re pot it about 6months ago and the root system was actually not too big, it still had plenty of room in the pot it was in previously too,and this one is much larger...ill add some pictures, maybe that might give you a better idea. the pictures of the leaves that are on 'Pauls' post are acctually similar and ive just discovered little white bugs with lots of little hairy legs around the new growth, so maybe it needs a spray of some sort??? might be a few things wrong??
| About the Author Claudine Australia 1st November 2009 9:11pm #UserID: 2966 |
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Wayne says... Well, there you go Claudine, I was wrong. Pic 2 suggests the tree is wanting fertiliser, I'm now using Terra Foska TE. The rest of the pics suggest that the tree is suffering badly with Anthracnose, a common Mango tree problem. Because the tree is flowering spray with Mancozeb and once the flowering has ceased and the fruit sets add copper oxichloride to the mix, spray once a week using a wetting agent. I have resorted to using an un-scented liquid soap because I can't get a wetting agent in small quantities here. Perhaps spread a little dolomite around under the tree as well. The little white bugs are aphids, you can get a spray at the nursery or hardware store to kill them. Cheers | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 2nd November 2009 7:33am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Claudine Singleton W.A 2nd November 2009 11:17am #UserID: 2966 |
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Jeff says... Hi Vicki/Amanda, I still havent found out what causes the issue with the mango tree. I ended up giving it a huge trim with chainsaw and upped the water to it but no real results. The tree was ravaged from cyclone George a few years ago on the one side, it never flowered/fruited after that(only on that side, rest of tree was fine). Have since moved house and inherited 2 mango trees that are significantly smaller than the original one and you guessed it....both have the same symptoms as the first. They are only a couple of years old so that maybe sinks the buildup of salt etc theory. I water each afternoon with sprinkler and then by hand but leaves are still dying from the tip upwards. | About the Author Jeff Port Hedland 3rd November 2009 1:29pm #UserID: 1731 |
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Wayne says... Read this Jeff "Q - we have a mango tree with yellow spots and dead or dying leaves the tree is roughly 15yrs old and 4 metres high ---A - The description fits Sour Sap usually caused by a Potash deficiency in the soil. Apply a complete fertilizer high in Potash and Phosphorous. TERRAFOSKA TE or Crop king 77. one clenched handful per sq metre under the canopy every two months" Does that help, | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 3rd November 2009 2:13pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Claudine Singleton W.A 3rd November 2009 7:27pm #UserID: 2966 |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 3rd November 2009 9:16pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Claudine Singleton W.A 3rd November 2009 10:53pm #UserID: 2966 |
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| About the Author Jeff Port Hedland 4th November 2009 12:16pm #UserID: 1731 |
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amanda says... Hi Jeff, a horticulturalist had a look at mine and said salt straight away. He also said that mangoes (and macadamias) are highly salt sensitive. He said it is being seen increasingly up the WA coast and is likely due to the lower rainfall etc etc. You should get your water tested - I was shocked to see how bad our scheme water was for sodium and chloride - severe. What you can do is give them a liberal dose of gypsum and then give them a heap of water to flush out the sodium. This needs to be done more often in dry periods. Try to practice deep long soakings INfrequently rather than lots of smaller waterings. The long soaks push the salt out past the root zone and flush better. Feed your tree little and often as this helps to displace the sodium from the soil. Choose low salt fertilisers. Liquid feed such as Powerfeed is good for this. PS - added a pic of my mangoe with new growth (fingers crossed!?) and my macadamia.
| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 7th November 2009 10:34am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Claudine says... HI THERE WAYNE, I HAVE GIVEN MY MANGO TREE ANOTHER SPRAY ALL OVER WITH THE MANCOZEB PLUS, AND SPREAD SOME OF THE LIME AROUND THE BASE AS YOU SAID, I COULDNT FIND ANY OF THE FERTILIZER YOU SUGGESTED...THE TERRAFOSKA T.E I HAVE FOUND A STONE FRUIT GRANUALS WITH A WETTING AGENT IN IT IN MY SHED THAT I MUST HAVE BOUGHT ALONG THE WAY AND HAVE PUT SOME AROUND THE BASE ALSO....WATERED IT IN WELL. HOPEFULLY IT SHOULD BE LOOKING A BIT BETTER ASAP! ANOTHER QUESTION FOR YOU :) SHOULD I BE REMOVING ANY OF THE DAMAGED LEAVES? | About the Author Claudine Singleton W.A. 7th November 2009 7:01pm #UserID: 2966 |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 7th November 2009 8:05pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author nike64 Altona 8th November 2009 11:53am #UserID: 0 |
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Jeff says... Hi Amanda, have tried the potash on main tree and seeing some new growth that looks healthy...guess time will tell. The scheme water here wouldnt suprise me if its worse than yours. Need a pack of wetta soil just to get shampoo on the hair here let alone what we are feeding our plants. Our water is so hard here once you have the calcium spots on any car windows you cant get it off with a razor blade, have just retic'd the whole yard and will see what regular watering does but looks good so far. Have attatched some pics of both trees and you can see the difference from the old to new growth. Got a whole 6 mangoes from two trees. Maybe next year.
| About the Author Jeff Port Hedland 8th November 2009 7:38pm #UserID: 0 |
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amanda says... Hey Jeff - looking good! I can highly recommend the liquid Gypsum. It's a bit expensive but u use very little. I got a 20L container of Gypflo for about $150 but I only needed to use 370ml for my 80 odd trees. Works out to about 2.5ml per sqm in my sandy soil. It works much faster than granular stuff and this is important in the dry season and in emergencies. It may come in smaller sizes - try googling Gypflo. The problem with "hard" water is that it excerbates salinity issues by increasing the sodium absorbtion ratio (SAR) - try some googling to find out more - but if you are really keen on gardening then a water test better (mine cost $66) a good investment. Be very careful of chemical fert's - if u use them - only very dilute! Organic matter is great but too much can be a problem as it tends to hold up the salts in the topsoil and then you require more flushing to get them to the sub-soil. So use mulch etc in moderation. I find chunky mulches the best - one's that keep the soil shaded and protected but allow the water to pass thru'. Liquid feeding is the most helpful in our conditions though - which I know doesn't help build soil fertility in the long run - but what can u do!? It's a double edged sword in our type of environment. I build up my organics in the rainy season - thus using the rain to help build the soil and then leave it alone during the dry/drought. | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 11th November 2009 10:41am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author kert sydney 12th November 2009 3:28pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author kert sydney 12th November 2009 3:36pm #UserID: 0 |
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amanda says... That's a pretty comprehensive list kert. Although one needs to consider their environment and soils when evaluating the effects of salinity on a type of plant. For example if you have sandy soils - the salts are leached more readily than in clay soils. Some plants also need humidity and others cannot tolerate wind - so many factors at play. A fleshy leafed plant will loose more water when the wind is hot and dry - this is not so good if they are already salt sensitive, as the plants dehydrate more readily and then the salts do their damage. Claudines plant is suffering from salinity problems also. Putting hard core fert's into the potting mix will likely make things worse, unless she waters very regularly - as soon as that potting mix gets too dry the plant will burn. In my conditions - passionfruit do really well (but listed as sensitive) - so all things are not equal. It's more important to be able to recognise the symptoms of salinity damage in your own environment than refer to a list (no offense) and then take action (which may be as drastic as not growing that type of plant :-( or it may just need careful management) | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 14th November 2009 11:13am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi Jeff - heres B4 n after pics of my jaboticabas (note burnt margins tee guys are very salt sensitive) I did gypflo and big water flush then calcium nitrate and then trace elements (I would normally try organic methods first - but this was an emergengcy) did this about 3 weeks ago. I have only done once so far - but he improvement is quite noticable.
| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 14th November 2009 7:56pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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M Nash says... I have three very large mangoes that produce thousands of fruit but they drop when almost full size. They are too big to cut right back and they are a wind brake. Can I spray the lower branches or what ever branches I can get to, And get fruit off those? Letting the top of the trees remain diseased? If so, What spray would you recommend? | About the Author M Nash Terranora 23rd November 2009 10:41am #UserID: 2892 View All M Nash's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Claudine says... hi there amanda! i have just noticed you have written about my tree :) as you can proberbly tell...im not a great gardener...but im trying! my tree is looking alot better after spraying it with the mancozeb plus solution....has some new growth...but do you think it also has a salt problem? what do you suggest the best thing for my tree would be? you seem to know alot about mangoes :) you wouldnt happen tp know what type of mango tree i could have? it has a graft and i bought it from kmart nursery in karratha, but it didnt have a tag :( any help is greatly appriciated guys! thanks | About the Author Claudine Singleton W.A. 23rd November 2009 5:17pm #UserID: 2966 |
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amanda says... Hi Claudine, sorry about the delay. I don't really know much about mangoes - but I battle salinity issues on a daily basis. Managing a tree like a mangoe in a pot is going to require a fair bit of work - you would be much better off putting it in the ground to be honest. Salinity issues are not just due to common "salt" - but it's by far the worst especially if your water is salty and you are coastal. Some fertilisers contain the wrong kinds of "salts" also. When in doubt go for liquid seaweed. Use little and often and pour over the plant also - it will help with any bugs also. My mangoe trees really loathe the coastal wind here too. Try to keep yours out of it. If you can shade the actual pot it would be good too. The black plastic will cook the roots as it heats up in the sun. You may be able to tell what kind of mangoe it is when it fruits. They have a lot of R2E2's up that way? | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 11th December 2009 11:16am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Brad says... Amanda - are you able to use any tricks to increase the summer humidity at least before the dry wind takes over? e.g. is there space for a support carrying some hessian that can get wet down in the morning? If the base is in a bucket of water, it will suck up moisture for quite a while. This especially helps while the mango gets established | About the Author Brad Como, Perth 11th December 2009 12:44pm #UserID: 2323 View All Brad's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi Brad.. I have micro-sprayers under the trees and can use these either under low pressure (as a "dripper") or high pressure as a sprayer. I put all that kelp under the trees over winter - it soaks up quite a bit of water and then slowly dries out during the day - maybe this would work in a similar way? To be honest - I am terrified of the water bill! Last summer cost $2,000 and it really hurt :-( We are starting to look at land down near Busselton region... Somewhere there is lotsa water and trees - and it's cooler n greener - any ideas anyone on some good locations for 10 - 20 acres? | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 12th December 2009 7:05pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Brad says... I sympathise on the water bill. I'm a (small) backyard gardener and my mango tips come from my dad-in-law, but if you can increase the humidity in summer, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. I've no idea how the kelp would go - but dad swears by the hessian trick. Good luck with the venture down south. Maybe around Capel? | About the Author Brad Como, Perth 14th December 2009 1:03pm #UserID: 2323 View All Brad's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Ta Brad - I will give it a go. We had 42 degrees the other day and I gave the trees a "mulch spraying" - they came thru fine. Looks like I will just have to bite the bullet and use the water when it gets that hot. I was thinking around Metricup way - good soil n water...but it's been years since I have been down south..hope I can handle the cold again!? :-) | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 15th December 2009 11:32am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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John I says... Well I am very disappointed. I have regularly sprayed my mango tree with mancozeb and I have watered and fertilized the tree. The fruit came out and reached various sizes some as big as a golf ball and now they are all falling off again. I can only assume the fungal disease(anthracnose)is still the problem. Perhaps when all the fruit is gone I will take to it with a chainsaw. At least that will give it all new branches. It could be the tree is too far gone. | About the Author John I Castle Hill 20th December 2009 11:00am #UserID: 2671 |
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Brendan says... Hi John, The secret in spraying mango and avocado trees for Anthracnose, is the 'wetting agent'! The guru here tells us to use 30g copperoxy chloride, 30g mancozeb, 60ml of a 'good' wetting agent, to 4.5litres water. Spray weekly for 3 weeks BEFORE the flowers open, stop spraying when the flowers are open. When the fruit forms, start spraying weekly again for 3 weeks. After that spray once a month untill harvest. Works for me. | About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 21st December 2009 10:30am #UserID: 1947 |
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| About the Author John I Castle Hill 7th January 2010 10:45am #UserID: 2671 |
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Wayne says... That's where you went wrong John, a wetting agent is a must as is to spray with the two together. Because a wetting agent in small quantities is hard to find where we are I use a "Liquid hand and body soap" called "Wild Snow" which comes in a 5L container for around $23.oo, much cheaper than a wetting agent [and I use it as well because I am allergic to fragrant soap]. Make sure if you use liquid soap that it is fragrant free. You should be able to get it from any wholesaler who supplies cleaning gear. Brendan will know more about wetting agents than I do. I kept the spray up to our tree last year and had an excellent crop compared to previous years. My tree had chronic anthracnose but after only a month or two of spraying with the mancozeb/copperoxichloride spray it was clear, I was surprised with the result. I don't think I will need to spray until later in the year now. | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 7th January 2010 11:21am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John I Castle Hill 8th January 2010 11:42am #UserID: 2671 |
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| About the Author John I Castle Hill 8th January 2010 12:23pm #UserID: 2671 |
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Wayne says... You can only try the eucaliptus liquid soap John, I've not heard of it. Brendan has told me that Bunnings have a wetting agent but I couldn't find it in the one here. They have plenty of soil wetting agents ofcourse. I use about 50grms of each to 9L of water + the wetting agent, Agral is a wetting agent I hope you can save some fruit John http://www.davidgray.com.au/products/horticulture/herbicides/agral-spray-adjuvent.html | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 8th January 2010 1:33pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John I Castle Hill 10th January 2010 10:12am #UserID: 2671 |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 10th January 2010 10:47am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John I Castle Hill 10th January 2010 1:59pm #UserID: 2671 |
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Wayne says... "Open what up a bit??? You are starting to worry me now." Lol John, don't let it worry you they are pretty hardy trees. I actually saw one on the ABC Gardening show today at 1pm today that was planted in 1853, it was huge. Have a look in that other thread "Cleaning out the Mango tree' Cut the top out of it and make it spread. It will still get the same amount of fruit and they will be easier to pick. | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 10th January 2010 5:37pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 10th January 2010 5:50pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi Wayne - it's interesting about the nitrogen with salinity issues - apparently a lack of nitrogen in the soil exacerbates salinity issues. That's why I gave my trees (in order): liquid gypsum, calcium nitrate and then liquid trace elements (Hi Trace). They responded beautifully! not a burnt tip or margin in sight for months. They are due to be done again now. The way in which the plants are watered is also critical to control (in sandy loams). Long deep soaks. It must be a buggar to control in clay soil - as the clay holds up the salts. | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 11th January 2010 10:31am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Wayne says... Hey Amanda, I have yet to try liquid gypsum, you have not long got me on to seasol. I have sandy loam also which is very hungry so need to keep an eye on it. I'm going to use town water for the raised vegie gardens and bore for the lawn and fruit trees. With the wet coming [I hope] the bore should improve and the rain might wash some of the salt away. The fruit trees don't seem to mind the hard water | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 11th January 2010 2:57pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi Wayne - For some reason I thought u had clay. Just a tip from the agronomist - veggies can tolerate a lot more salt than fruit trees - you may be better to use the more saline bore water on them and save the good water for your fruit trees. I save my rain water (50,000L) for flushing my fruit trees during summer now (it was irrigating my veggie patch) and the veg get the crappy, salty town water. The idea (for me) is to give the fruit trees a good rainwatering maybe once a month in the dry - to help dilute out the salts and flush them down into the subsoil. Hardness in water is interesting - my soil and water has a bit too much magnesium - the calcium/magnesium ratio in your soil is important when it somes to caking, water repellance and compaction. Magnesium increases this problem. So gypsum good for this too (to increase calcium levels - improves the soil). It's a real balancing act with salinity issues. Fingers crossed u get rain soon - it's the panacea for the problem! | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 12th January 2010 11:27am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Wayne says... This is the water result Amanda PH 7.5 - 6.5 to 8.5 is A grade Hardness - 410 - [50/100 is A] 100 to 500 is B grade T.D.S. - 1200 - [100/300 is A] 1000 to 1500 is C grade Conductivity - 1800 - [175/450 is A] 1500 to 2200 is C grade Salinity - 1000 - [10/500 is A] 500 to 2000 is B grade Iron - .1 - A grade Manganese - 0 good Nitrate - 0 good My fruit trees get watered with the lawn Amanda and they are doing fine so hopefully after this wet the water will improve. | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 12th January 2010 11:55am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi Wayne - is that bore or tap water? high conductivity hey.. mine (tap) EC (conductivity) 1663 TDS 1064. Hardness 145 The EC = class 3 (high salinity) It's the chloride and sodium in mine that is really bad (Cl = 300 mg/L) If >350 mg/L - then classed as severe for plants. Be careful with it Wayne - the trouble with trees is that they store the sodium and chloride (if only they had kidneys like us!) the damage may not be seen until it passes a threshhold - then quite suddenly u can get tip and margin burn - when they become water stressed usually. When there is excess sodium and insufficient potassium then the trees will actively take up sodium too. You should be able to manage - use liquid gypsum if you have an emergency - it works instantly unlike powder. Your mangoe trees will tell you first if there is a problem. What other trees do you have? All things are not equal when it comes to salinity I have found - for eg: mine is exacerbated by hot dry winds and soil that struggles to hold moisture. You may fare better with increased humidity. Check the water again after the rains and reassess the situation then. | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 12th January 2010 12:16pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 12th January 2010 12:44pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Claudine says... hi all! my mango tree is looking much healthier these days! ive been giving it seasol and a good drink of water everyday, and spraying it with the mancozeb every fortnight, just mixed with water, not added anything else, and its doing well i think?????? any advise is appriciated!
| About the Author Claudine Singleton W.A. 12th January 2010 3:21pm #UserID: 2966 |
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amanda says... Go Claudine! It looks great - well done and good on you for the feedback. Looks good to me - but I am no mangoe expert (only the salts part!) Check the new leaves as they age - if they start to burn as they get older then give it some gypsum and a good flushing. The advantage with pots is that they can be flushed of fertiliser salts and NaCl salts more readily than the ground I guess. | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 12th January 2010 4:17pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John I Castle Hill 12th January 2010 6:34pm #UserID: 2671 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 12th January 2010 8:59pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John I Castle Hill 14th January 2010 1:06pm #UserID: 2671 |
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amanda says... Oh that old! - too hard for me John I - any other mangoe devotees out there who can help? My hawiaan guava did the same thing last summer (some were almost ripe but most golf ball size) I put it down to not enough water - but to be honest I really don't know why a tree would drop fruit at that stage...my indian guava was fine. | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 14th January 2010 1:14pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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michael says... Amanda you truley are a walking encylopedia on Mango trees! I have three Mango trees that are quite old now. Two beauties (about 8-10 metres) but one however has never grown very big, only 3 metres tall with very close internodes due to some type of disease. Every year it grows new leaves, which then get rot and die off. I was told the soil around it might have been too firm, and not enabling water to soak in, so I dug big holes around it and filled them up with mulch to aid in this. It actually has started to regrow better then all other years this season, but still not that good. I am wondering, 1. Should I cut it right back past all the old rot to aid in fresh new regrow? 2. Could it be something else entirely? 3. If i do this what should I do after to stop the plant from getting sick again after taking such a beating with the chainsaw? My even bigger concern though is with my other BIG tree that I will discuss in my next post. Please see attached pics of this one.
| About the Author michael Coolum Beach QLD 26th January 2010 11:18am #UserID: 3296 |
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michael says... This is the other tree, one of the two good ones!!! It has been growing fine for years, this year however it hasnt sent any new regrowth. The one 10m away is going crazy with new regrwoth! It looks like some type of fungus, and I am freaking out. I am concerned that whatever disease is in my bad one is in this one, however it seems unlikely as the good tree is close to the bad (above) tree then this one is. Any ideas?
| About the Author michael Coolum Beach QLD 26th January 2010 11:22am #UserID: 3296 |
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Wayne says... Hello John, an 18 year old mango tree should be in full production. Here's a few hints. "Mangoes (Fertiliser) - Fertilizer high in Potash and Phosphorous is recommended. Terrafoska TE is an organic blend recommended for Mangoes. You can mix two parts Blood/Bone, one part Magnesium sulphate and one part Sulphate of Potash and apply every two months under the canopy at one clenched handful per sq metre." I'm also starting to think about seasol for a quick fix. Q55 is another fertiliser used by the growers in Bowen. | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 26th January 2010 12:00pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Wayne says... Those trees look terrible michael, I think they have Sour Sap caused by a Potash Deficiency in the soil. "With this major deficiency your tree will be attacked by the fungi Anthracnose which stops flowering or destroys flowers. Apply a complete fertilizer high in Potash and Phosphorous such as Crop king 55 or TERRAFOSKA TE ONCE PER MONTH under the canopy spread. To control Antracnose mix Copper oxychloride and Mancozeb 30gms of each to 4.5litres water spray the canopy monthly do not spray when in flower, a good wetting agent IS A MUST, otherwise you are wasting your time. Apply the fertilizer one clenched handful per sq metre under the canopy spread" Michael, if you are going to control disease and want fruit you should open those trees up and let some sunlight in. PS I have never killed a Mango tree yet with a chain saw, you could prune your trees to just above the first fork, taking ALL the leaves, and you will not hurt it. | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 26th January 2010 12:08pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi michael - let's see what others say..Wayne? I have some ideas but I am more into the soil stuff.. The first tree looks a bit sick. Short internodes usually a nutritonal deficiency. I would spray the tree of anthracnose, clear the mulch away from the trunk (it's very close), prune off the dead bits and bin them. I would then give the tree some trace elements and a liquid feed of "Power feed" (not too strong) Some gypsum wouldn't hurt either - it is a good source of calcium and sulphate and won't alter pH. Makes soil "sweet". Treat all the trees for anthracnose - but I have no idea how you do this with big trees! | About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 26th January 2010 12:14pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Wayne says... The growth of the first tree is stunted from disease and lack of food Amanda, sure, use "Power feed" and it will certainly make a difference but the Mango growers up here do not use power feed or seasol. Q55 and Terrafoska is made with Mangoes in mind and provide all the trace elements required. The bark on that tree is a give away, it looks more like a Poinsettia than a Mango. I use a napsack spray on my trees which seems to build up enough pressure. The tree must be sprayed inside and out making sure the leaves are fully coated under and over, so this is one of the reasons to thin the trees. At to onset of anthracnose I spray once a week, after 4 sprays the trees are generally clear. Gypsum is great and would be a plus for sure. http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5240.html | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 26th January 2010 12:45pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 26th January 2010 6:47pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author michael Coolum Beach QLD 28th January 2010 4:19pm #UserID: 3296 |
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| About the Author John I Castle Hill 29th January 2010 11:28am #UserID: 2671 |
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smita says... Thanks wyane for response.Will u please tell me the following Pesticides products Advantage and when we can used dis pesticides how n what quantity .It is applicable on mangoes trees .I have 7 years old mango trees and tell me also duration how i can spray pesticides step by step(From start to end Process) Mancozeb 75% (WP) Acetamiprid 20% (SP) Carbendazim 12% + Mancozeb 63% (WP) Sulphur 80% (WP) Acephate 75% (SP) Metalaxyl 35% (WS) Hexaconazole 35% (SC) Lambda Cyhalothrin 5% (EC), Regards; Smita | About the Author smita Goa 6th February 2010 2:52am #UserID: 3341 |
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Wayne says... http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5240.html http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5306.html http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/26_7718.htm To much information there for me to give advice Smita, some I have not heard of. I use 30 grams of Mancozeb to 4.5 litres of water with at least as much wetting agent if I'm using it by itself. Start spraying weekly about a month before flowering and continue until fruit is about 1/2 grown, but keep an eye on it. With the copperoxichloride, I combine 30 grams with the Mancozeb, but you cannot spray with this while the tree is flowering. Once the fruit is set you can add it back into the mix. I don't know hoe effective Mancozeb is by itself. Carbendazim is a post harvest treatment for the fruit so perhaps the Carbendazim 12% + Mancozeb 63% as a spray might be worth a try. For dipping the fruit after harvesting to stop stem rot and spots I have had success with Condys Crystals [Potassium permanganate] Read the above links and I hope they help | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 6th February 2010 6:08am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits says... I live in okinawa japan and alot of the local mango farmers have been experiencing this "new" disease with there plants, the plants have large growths, that looks like a conglomeration of leaves and stem, i dont know if anyone knows what this is, some reasercher came to my farm yesterday and asked for a sample, soo i dont know if its a new disease, or if it is only happening in Okinawa? i will post another thread tomorrow with pictures of the infected mango trees | About the Author Okinawa Tropical Fruits Haebaru, OKinawa 6th March 2010 9:44pm #UserID: 3452 |
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| About the Author Okinawa Tropical Fruits Haebaru, OKinawa 13th March 2010 9:44pm #UserID: 3452 |
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| About the Author Okinawa Tropical Fruits Haebaru, OKinawa 13th March 2010 9:45pm #UserID: 3452 |
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| About the Author Okinawa Tropical Fruits Haebaru, OKinawa 13th March 2010 9:48pm #UserID: 3452 |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 14th March 2010 6:05am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Okinawa Tropical Fruits Haebaru, OKinawa 14th March 2010 5:04pm #UserID: 3452 |
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| About the Author BJ Brisbane 14th March 2010 5:23pm #UserID: 3270 View All BJ's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Okinawa Tropical Fruits Haebaru, OKinawa 15th March 2010 11:24pm #UserID: 3452 |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 16th March 2010 9:41am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Brad Como, Perth 17th March 2010 12:39pm #UserID: 2323 View All Brad's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Wayne says... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper(II)_hydroxide http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_fungicides I think you are right Brad, I've not heard of your product but it does sound the same. That list of fungicides is interesting | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 18th March 2010 4:15pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Brad says... Another link off your first one is nice and succinct. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7481.html I understood the pro of the 'new' copper sprays over Bordeaux to be less likely to burn. This page doesn't discriminate our 2, but says they would be less persistent than bordeaux in rain. Since Perth doesn't rain (4 months now I think), I'm more worried about burn than persistance. You might have the opposite preference. Cheers | About the Author Brad Como, Perth 18th March 2010 8:41pm #UserID: 2323 View All Brad's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author safiugharadar gujarat 27th March 2010 5:48pm #UserID: 3527 |
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Nerida says... Hi, I have 2 old mango trees (?>20 years) in our suburban backyard in the inner-west of Sydney. There is a big lush one in the centre of the yard that, historically produces much less fruit than the other which is half its size, but in a garden bed next to a fence with neighbouring native trees on the other side. The fruit from the last 2 seasons has developed a black rot over the skin, particularly around the stem, some of the fruit were ruined by this. The smaller tree, over the past couple of years has begun to yellow & although regrowth has diminished, it produced a bumper crop this year! A horticulturalist from Flowerpower suggested that the tree was nutrient deficient & needed pruning. So, I cut it back significantly, pulled all plants out round the base, added compost & mulch, fed it sparingly with slow-release "Organic Extra", and have been watering it every 1-2weeks. There has been no regrowth in 2 months except for 3 little buds which are not progressing (I also pruned out the canopy of the other tree & it has been growing back really well). The other problem with this small tree is that around the base of the trunk there is a large dark brown indentation which covers the bottom 1/3 (about 40cm high)& smaller indentations are developing over the branches and oozing small amounts of sap. In the past 2 weeks the few green leaves left are starting to die off. HELP!!! I don't want my tree to die, but I am starting to fear the worst! | About the Author Nerida Ashbury,NSW 22nd April 2010 4:50pm #UserID: 3638 |
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Wayne says... Hello Nerida Don't panic, we'll fix it. But before we try can you post some pics. I don't know why one tree would produce more than the other, are they the same variety? Does the tree with the lush growth flower as much as the other, if so and the flower comes to nothing then it has anthracnose which is most common. The tree with the fruit going black certainly has anthracnose or something similar. In both cases you need to spray weekly with a copper based spray such as copper oxychloride and mancozeb, mixed 30g of each to 4.5L water and make sure you use a wetting agent. If the fruit is developing stem rot on the tree the spray will fix that. If the fruit is marking after you pick it wash the fruit as soon as you pick it in a weak condies crystals or a weak detol solution. The brown marks and leeching sap indicates it it needs sulphate of potash as well as a good fertiliser such as Terrafoske PE. "Organic Extra", should be fine but make sure you are fertilising out where the drip line of the tree was before you cut it back and not around the trunk. It is the wrong time of the year to prune a mango tree, it is now dormant until after winter. Make sure you seal the cuts with a branch sealer or a weak water based paint solution. I don't think you will see any improvement in the tree until about October, so make sure you do not over water it. It will not need much water at all over winter | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 22nd April 2010 5:09pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Jack Perth 25th April 2010 9:58pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author Nick Altona VIC 16th May 2010 12:01pm #UserID: 2663 |
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| About the Author Nick Altona VIC 16th May 2010 12:23pm #UserID: 2663 |
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Wayne says... Hello Jack Yes you can prune your tree back by 1/3 safely. If you are taking the centre out and leaving the side branches that will all the better. Personally I wouldn't do it until after your season when the new growth starts, the tree is dormant now. Transplanting is not a problem either, just be careful with the tap root. We always pruned the trees before transplanting but people here say they have more success by not pruning. http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0006/119787/mango-growing.pdf Nick, I think your tree just lacks nourishment, search Mango tree fertiliser DPI QLD. Perhaps some sulphate of Potash then a fertiliser such as Terrafoska TE. I to have problems loading pics, this site times out if you pics are to high in quality, if I use the el-cheapo camera it's fine http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5240.html | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 16th May 2010 4:46pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Nick Altona VIC 17th May 2010 8:39pm #UserID: 0 |
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Nick says... I bought some Seasol liquid seaweed which can be applied year-round. It says it contains very little NPK. Apart from this would it work some miracles on my troubled tree. I think it also says it increases frost/disease tolerance which would be a massive extra considering its now Winter. | About the Author Nick Altona VIC 22nd May 2010 7:09pm #UserID: 2663 |
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luis says... i have something growing on the bark of my mango tree it looks like some kind of moss but im not sure how do i get rid of it and is it hurting the tree also ive had this tree for over 6 years and seems to have stopped growing i have tried fertilizers pruning and nothing seems to work it bears fruit but i want the tree to grow or spread or something any ideas thank you
| About the Author luis miami florida 28th May 2010 4:25am #UserID: 3765 |
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Ben says... Hi John, I live nearby and tend to get early flowers too on my mango tree. But because our overnight temperatures are often too low for the flowers to pollinate properly, most of the young fruits abort early as they are sterile. My tree label suggests cutting of the early flower panicles in cooler climates (us) and the flowers will reshoot in warmer times, with a higher success rate. I will be trying this method this season. Any thoughts anyone? | About the Author Ben Frenchs Forest, Sydney NSW 16th June 2010 10:26am #UserID: 0 |
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grub says... Okinawa Tropical Fruits mate looks like Mango Malformation Disease (MMD) is a fungal disease of mangoes caused by several species of Fusarium, some yet to be described. Mango is the only known host of the disease. found in darwin a new disease in 2007 hope this helps here the link http://www.nt.gov.au/d/Content/File/p/Plant_Pest/mango_malformation_revised.pdf | About the Author grub dardanup 17th June 2010 9:41pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Claudine says... Hi all, i havent written on here for months as my tree has been doing great! heaps of new growth and very green, no dying brown leaves or black spots to be seen :) i stopped spaying it with the mancozeb as soon as it was looking good, and free of the dying leaves...and have just been giving it water really for the last 2 months, but now its winter and its cold and getting rain...i was just wondering if i still should give it a water, its still in a ceramic black pot, and should i apply any fertilizer? i really want it to fruit this summer, as ive had it for around 6 yrs now and never had a mango! thanks, love to read any tips :) | About the Author Claudine Singleton W.A. 20th June 2010 10:35pm #UserID: 2966 |
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grub says... gidday all i have a leave problem on 2 of my kp mangoes there in pots in a shade house, till spring .. i have 6 in there and the 2 in both the corners have this leave disorder more than the rest .it also has mold growing under the leavers so im thinking it could be to humid in the house .it has not effected my bannanas.... can you tell me what i have ?they only get rain water,and every 2 weeks get hit with sea sole and power feed . i did fertilize them when i repotted them 4 months ago (organic) and have not added any more than the liquid power feed .. i thought it was fertilizer burn from over feritilizering or not enough water .the salts in my water dont even regerster on a salt meter .many thanks grub
| About the Author grub dardanup 22nd June 2010 8:14pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author cathh 14th July 2010 5:17pm #UserID: 3942 |
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| About the Author Nick Altona, VIC 20th July 2010 5:49pm #UserID: 2663 |
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amanda says... Well - I have just about had it with my mangoes!? This tree has just become burnt with the first heavy rains washing 'salts' back into the irrigation zone maybe? It is likely due to the extra stuff this tree gets - as the other tree is 30m away and totally neglected...and it's doing much better? (both KP seedlings) Anyway - grub's is fertiliser burn I would say and cathh's looks like an old burn on an old leaf, that is just flaking off now. I have some of these too. I don't know what to do about my mangoe?
| About the Author amanda Geraldton 21st July 2010 1:10pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Nick Altona, VIC 22nd July 2010 5:46pm #UserID: 2663 |
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| About the Author Nick Altona, VIC 22nd July 2010 5:46pm #UserID: 2663 |
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Brad says... I'm not surprised you're struggling with Mangoes - you need my father in law as a consultant. He said last night for Perth, you'd start ensuring heavy water now, more when they flower and right through before reducing it for fruit flavour Maybe you can ask come canarvon growers to stop by on their way down the coast? | About the Author Brad Como, Perth 22nd July 2010 7:23pm #UserID: 2323 View All Brad's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Nick Altona, VIC 22nd July 2010 7:37pm #UserID: 0 |
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amanda says... Thanks Brad - is your father in law an ex-carnarvon grower? I may know of him - spent 5 yrs there. The interesting thing about these two trees is that the one that is looking good is also sitting on top of where I divined the underground water stream..? They do seem to love their water don't they...I haven't given them much cos I didn't think they would be growing in this weather..? Thanks for the tip. Nick - can u post a photo? There are others on the forum with a lot more experience in mangoes that may know..? | About the Author amanda Geraldton 23rd July 2010 9:37am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Brad Como, Perth 23rd July 2010 9:46am #UserID: 2323 View All Brad's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Kristina Sydney 26th July 2010 1:58pm #UserID: 3989 |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 27th July 2010 7:18am #UserID: 1947 |
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Kristina says... Thanks Brendan Down here they finish fruiting about February. I was just wondering if I could prune it before it went through the fruiting stage, and I don't know if the flush of growth I'm seeing now is leaves and therefore if it's OK or not to chop back at this stage, or do I wait for one more whole cycle and cut as soon as I pick the last fruit next year? | About the Author Kristina Sydney 28th July 2010 9:03am #UserID: 3989 |
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Wayne says... Hey Kristina The flush of growth you see now is the prelude to flowering [I think]. Like Brendan says I would suggest not to cut it back now, wait until it fruits and you won't shock the tree so much. Beside, it won't grow any until after it fruits. Again like Brendan says, prune your tree by roughly 30% to be safe as it is such a young tree. When it gets to be 15-20-30 years old you can then cut it back to the stump. This is how many Bowen farmers operate, they then graft their R2E2 Mangoes on to the stumps | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 28th July 2010 4:55pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Rodney Brisbane QLD 2nd August 2010 10:50pm #UserID: 4012 |
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| About the Author VIVEK INDIA 12th August 2010 9:00pm #UserID: 4073 |
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| About the Author VIVEK INDIA 12th August 2010 9:31pm #UserID: 4073 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 12th August 2010 9:35pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author VIVEK INDIA 12th August 2010 9:53pm #UserID: 4073 |
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| About the Author VIVEK INDIA 12th August 2010 9:57pm #UserID: 4073 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 12th August 2010 10:03pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author VIVEK INDIA 12th August 2010 10:14pm #UserID: 4073 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 12th August 2010 10:18pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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VIVEK says... Dear Amanda, You are going on wrong NAT>MUR is not my product nor I do any business of such product,it was out of sheer affection towards the fruiting trees that I suggested you this solution.NAT>MUR must be awalable in any health store if you enquire.In INDIA it casts 10rs. for 20 drops. !$=45rs.I hope you are satisfied. vivek | About the Author VIVEK INDIA 12th August 2010 10:29pm #UserID: 4073 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 12th August 2010 10:37pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author VIVEK INDIA 12th August 2010 10:50pm #UserID: 4073 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. WA 12th August 2010 11:07pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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VIVEK says... Dear Amanda, I am a homeopathy practitioner,I understand your concern,It is out of sheer love and selfless service to plants and humanity.Nat.mur is nothing but potentised sodium chlorides,the solution thet i suggested you is based on sound fundsmental principle of homeopathy that says"like cures like" If you give the samle of remdy to any international laboratory no lab can detect the content of the remedy the will say this contains nothing,actually these remedies work on NANO level,The disease that is created by a crude form of a substance will be cured by the same substance in potentised form,this is proved.soon you will see that agri world is going to be taken by stor for good and you will forget the pesticides and fungicides because in htes you aim at killing fungus or pests but iin homeopathy we taget the patient and not the disease in agri's case it is the plant,the plant is made so strong that it withstands or repels the pests and fungicide,remember my words that you will change your ways for better in future,pl.don't forget to inform me when you start on the path,imagine pesticide free fruits/vegitables,it will not be organic farming but homeopathic farming,homeopathy does'nt say no to organic manure,but to other so called 'cides which are always a threat to health of masses.The expenses are also peanuts as compared to modern farming methods. vivek | About the Author VIVEK INDIA 12th August 2010 11:49pm #UserID: 4073 |
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| About the Author VIVEK INDIA 13th August 2010 12:47am #UserID: 4073 |
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| About the Author fred 13th August 2010 10:44pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 14th August 2010 7:41am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 14th August 2010 7:48am #UserID: 1947 |
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| About the Author Nick Altona, VIC 21st August 2010 9:41pm #UserID: 2663 |
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| About the Author Michael Wakeley 23rd August 2010 12:48pm #UserID: 1746 View All Michael's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author BJ Brisbane 23rd August 2010 1:23pm #UserID: 3270 View All BJ's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Pb says... Please can one of you tell me what to do with my mango tree (planted 2 years ago)that is flowering for first time now but has some brown dying leaves. some leaves the "brown" is along the middle of the leaves along the vein - so spreading from inside of leaf to outside. Am I over watering it. many thanks for any help | About the Author Pb Perth 22nd September 2010 12:57pm #UserID: 4257 |
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Wayne says... Could be a couple of things Pb, perhaps Anthracnose or more likely Soursap if the leaves are dying from the tip back. If it is Soursap give it a good spread of Sulphate of Potash under the canopy as well as some Gypsum every couple of months. For Anthracnose spray weekly with Mancozeb only until the fruit sets. Then add Copperoxichloride until the fruit is 1/3 plus grown. These sprays won't hurt anyway if it's not the fungus -- but do not spray the flowers with a copper spray, it will kill them. How old is the tree? | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 22nd September 2010 3:56pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Pb says... Thank you so much Wayne. I bought "Mancozeb plus" today .. will try it out tommorrow, it has sulphur in it. Is that still ok to use? I will do the potash and gypsum too and see if that helps. The mango tree has endured two perth winters and this is its second spring..only planted for 2 years but have no idea how old it was when I bought it. Just a Big W $70 job and I don't even know what type of mango it is. Many thanks | About the Author Pb perth 23rd September 2010 12:06am #UserID: 4257 |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 23rd September 2010 7:21am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author BJ Brisbane 23rd September 2010 9:52am #UserID: 3270 View All BJ's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Brad Como, Perth 23rd September 2010 11:36am #UserID: 2323 View All Brad's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Jimmy Perth 23rd September 2010 1:15pm #UserID: 2548 View All Jimmy's Edible Fruit Trees |
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grub says... gidday i trying to make the organic fertilizer from this forum with 2 parts blood bone 1 part epson salts and 1 part potash .the only problem is the only blood and bone i can get has trace elements already in it (rich grow preimun plus with 1% potash) .i can get meat meal so my question is can i use the preminum or the meAt meal?many thanks in advance | About the Author grub 24th September 2010 1:36pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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grub says... gidday i trying to make the organic fertilizer from this forum with 2 parts blood bone 1 part epson salts and 1 part potash .the only problem is the only blood and bone i can get has trace elements already in it (rich grow preimun plus with 1% potash) .i can get meat meal so my question is can i use the preminum or the meAt meal?many thanks in advance | About the Author grub 24th September 2010 1:36pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton Mid West WA 24th September 2010 6:22pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Claudine says... hi there! just wondering if you all could give some tips on what to feed, or do for my mango tree this time of year...its been a little while since i wrote on here...but i have a mango tree in a pot...had it for about 6 years now, bought it from kmart in karratha W.A. when i was working up there, but it has been back with me in mandurah for the past 4yrs now.. and it has never beared fruit...but is starting to flower now...and has tiny mangoes on it! so im hoping to get some mangoes this year!! it has been very healthy and green since this time last year really...all tips will be great! thanks :) just added some pictures so you can see how much its grown since last time i posted, and the flowering too!
| About the Author Claudine Singleton W.A. 27th September 2010 10:00pm #UserID: 2966 |
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grub says... gidday can some give me some advice on these mango leaves ?they look a little pail compard to my other smaller mangoes with yellow veins,these mangoes have been in pots for 8 years, and they have been in the open all year and had 7or 8 frosts this winter .i have just planted them in the groung this week end .im on real gut less sandy soil so i mixed half a borrow of cow manure to the holes then rotary hoed them in to a square meter i have not added any thing else,i was going to add gypson at 500 grams a square mtr and in 2 weeks was going to add some blood bone potash any help much appreciated ,these trees are new to me im a vegie guy...sorry for the short story many thanks in advance
| About the Author grub 28th September 2010 3:04pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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grub says... sorry me again i have a couple of limbs starting to die and go black and slowly creaping down the limb ..i was going to cut them off after some advice ..i think they are frost damaged .but i just guessing .many thanks grub.... sorry for the bad photo
| About the Author grub 28th September 2010 3:13pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi grub - your sand looks as sad as mine :( They will need a lot of water. Are u watering with scheme or bore water? How much water have you been giving them and how often? - a bit hard to tell from the pics but the leaves on the dead limb look really burnt? can u post another pic of them? The other leaves look ok - I would just be giving them seasol (seaweed) at this stage - likely have transplant shock after 8 yrs in a pot. U really want to see some fresh new growth b4 u start fertilising them. Were they pot-bound? Circling roots in the pot? | About the Author amanda Geraldton Mid West WA 28th September 2010 9:12pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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grub says... gidday amanda they are on bore water now .i was using seasol and power feed every 2 weeks when they were in pot with rain water and i probly wated them every 3 days with 4 liters,i read not to give em much water before they flower.i have watered every day since transplanted only in the morning with mini sprinklers.yes they were pot bound i will take some more photos | About the Author grub 28th September 2010 9:30pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton Mid West WA 29th September 2010 9:52am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author grub 29th September 2010 7:39pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Ok Grub - that's a start. My tap water has 160 ppm Sodium and 300 ppm Chloride. This sodium is classed as "Moderate" and the Chloride "Moderate" (but only for chloride tolerant plants) Did the people/lab who tested your water give u any reference ranges/comments in relation to growing fruit trees with your bore water? 1100 ppm salinity is the max level recommended for humans. I would discontinue the bore water on your mangoes (they hate salt!) and get some advice before u use it again - just to be sure. We have a retic specialist outlet here called "Think Water" - and they are pretty good - also many rural suppliers like CRT, Landmark have an agronomist/horticulturalist - who can assist u. They also have kits for this kind of testing - I had one done through Delta Water and it cost about $60 - I got great feedback on my results in relation to gardening with our awful tap water. | About the Author amanda Geraldton Mid West WA 29th September 2010 9:10pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Nick Altona, VIC 8th November 2010 7:54pm #UserID: 2663 |
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| About the Author grub dardanup south east bunbury wa 15th November 2010 10:06pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton Mid West WA 16th November 2010 10:34am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Wayne says... That much rain shouldn't effect the blossoms Grub, unless it was heavy. The tree in pic 1 and the bloom on the right of that tree is showing typical signs of anthracnose, I hope I'm wrong, but you might consider fertilising with Potash and spraying the trees with Mencozeb. The blooms are open but not set yet so you can't use a copper spray until the fruit has set. If it is anthracnose it might be to late, is there any sign of fruit setting yet? | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 16th November 2010 11:11am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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grub says... gidday amanda & wayne, thanks for the advice i need it as mangos are new to me and they all said i couldnt do it lol..i applyed potash 2 weeks ago about 50 grams a square meter , i was spraying mencozeb every fortnight up untill i notice a open flower about 2-3 weeks ago,no i havnt seen any fruit as yet.i also put the home made te fertilizer on them as well...thanks again .. | About the Author grub dardanup south east bunbury wa 16th November 2010 4:51pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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grub says... oh forgot toask about the copper mix i have read on the site .... 30g copperoxy chloride, 30g mancozeb, 60ml of a 'good' wetting agent, to 4.5litres water.. this is double what my mancozeb recommends.do i stick will the recommended doze or can we up it to \ 30g copperoxy chloride, 30g mancozeb my mancozeb is 700 grams a kilo thanks | About the Author grub dardanup south east bunbury wa 16th November 2010 4:55pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Wayne says... It seems to me that you are doing everything right Grub, it will take time for the potash to kick in and I don't think you can over do it. Mancozeb only at this stage but I would go 3grms per litre minimum. I personally feel that 60ml of wetting agent to 4.5ltr of water is excessive, goodness, a normal bottle is around 125ml I don't know if this would work but I have recently found that Eco-oil used as a wetting agent works fine and kills two birds with one stone - and you need only about 5ml? per liter - even if you double it, it sounds better Please keep us up to speed with what's happening | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 16th November 2010 5:19pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author grub dardanup south east bunbury wa 15th December 2010 10:38pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 16th December 2010 7:00am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Awesome grub! U are doing better than me - my mangoes never even flower...they just don't get enough water at the right time. I would also be tempted to give them a a treat of gypsum next autumn and, working in with the season rains, it should give the soil a hand to leach some of the salts. Gypsum has soluble sulphur which is good for sandy soils and calcium - which is needed by fruiting trees also. It is a good "soil sweetener" I hope your fruit is delicious! :) | About the Author amanda Geraldton Mid West WA 16th December 2010 6:45pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author grub dardanup south east bunbury wa 16th December 2010 11:21pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author grub dardanup south east bunbury wa 24th December 2010 1:20pm #UserID: 3828 View All grub's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Nick Altona, VIC 14th January 2011 6:44pm #UserID: 2663 |
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| About the Author Jason Portland 14th January 2011 11:48pm #UserID: 637 |
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Nick says... Here's some pics of my oldest mango tree finally finding its feet. After 2 years of attemted flowering and failure its finally branching out everywhere along the trunk. Also I replaced the younger dead mango with a slightly larger one and its starting to shoot.
| About the Author Nick Altona, VIC 27th January 2011 7:35pm #UserID: 2663 |
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| About the Author grub 17th February 2011 11:23pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 19th February 2011 7:59am #UserID: 1947 |
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grub says... gidday brendan it's the bowen mango growen from seed.. here is a photo of one of my mangoes that was totaly bald with no leaves 2 weeks ago . it lost all the leave when the dripper block up didnt get water for a lest a month or more .they do recoever very quickly when the get a drink and feed..
| About the Author grub 20th February 2011 10:32pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 21st February 2011 9:11am #UserID: 1947 |
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| About the Author Nick Altona 6th March 2011 7:58pm #UserID: 2663 |
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| About the Author Glory Melbourne 6th March 2011 9:47pm #UserID: 0 |
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Nick says... Hi Glory, When the temperatures drop below 4 degrees I put over a cover (an old, lightweight blanket that droops to the ground), a couple of half lemonade bottle filled with water underneath and starting this year, an anti-dessicant spray (I use Yates Droughtshield). If we ever do get temperatures below 0 I'll probably add an additional heat source underneath the blanket. | About the Author Nick Altona, VIC 7th March 2011 6:53pm #UserID: 2663 |
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Pami says... HI, I got a few mango plants grown from seeds and in pots for last 2-4 yrs and now only one is given a couple of mangoes and they are still on tree, green. It frowered in Nov. and fruited and now nearly matured, but don't know when to pick it. Had plenty of flowers and dropped, washed off by rain and rotten by anthracnose. All plants looking good, but would like also to know what time of the year to treat these plants, like pruning, change of soil, spray etc. Could you pls advise me anyone out there....Thanks. Sorry, have no pics taken, may be next time...Ta. | About the Author Pami Castle Hill,Sydney, NSW 9th March 2011 8:59pm #UserID: 5031 |
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Aryan Dsena says... I have a 40Years old Mango tree{20Ft} in our backyard but from last 7years it was fruiting hardly 4-5mangoes BUT this time I thought to add fertilizers{2Kg Urea,10gm Gibberenlic Acid and 1kgDAP} and 50ml pesticide i.e {"Dimethoate"}both sprayed and into ground.I did fertilizing and pesticiding in December and in January we received Uncountable flowers I mean flowers were covering whole tree!!Then on 11th March I read this Forum to spray pesticide while flowering so I Heavily sprayed Dimethoate with water Gun over flowers But from last Two days flowers have become BARE{Dried} and 80% of them have fallen:(:( But now there is Leaf growth all over the tree Gosh the leaves are growing like bullet train!! Help me what went wrong??What to do?? | About the Author Aryan Dsena New Delhi 24th March 2011 5:37am #UserID: 5094 |
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Wayne says... Hello Aryan, I've not heard of Dimethoate but after googling it, it seems you have used the wrong stuff. Anthracnose is what killed your flowers and you need a copper based spray to kill the fungus so this is what is recommended for us. About a month before the tree flowers spray weekly with 30grams of Copper Oxichloride and 30grams Mancozeb mixed with 4.5litres of water making sure you use a good wetting agent, otherwise the spray will not work Once the flowers start to open cut the Copper Oxichloride from the spray but keep spraying weekly with the Mancozeb until the fruit has set. Then re-introduce the copper oxichloride and keep spraying until the fruit is half grown or larger These are Yates products and you should be able to get them. If not contact Yates direct and seek their advice cheers Another thought is that the spray used would have killed any insects so perhaps the flowers were not polinated | About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 24th March 2011 7:44am #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John I Castle hill 27th March 2011 1:19pm #UserID: 2671 |
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| About the Author Wayne Mackay QLD 27th March 2011 4:35pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 29th March 2011 8:26am #UserID: 1947 |
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| About the Author John I Castle hill 2nd April 2011 4:32pm #UserID: 2671 |
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| About the Author Jazz QLD 14th April 2011 9:02pm #UserID: 5188 |
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| About the Author grub 20th April 2011 4:45pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 24th April 2011 7:34am #UserID: 1947 |
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| About the Author Xiem 30th April 2011 12:23pm #UserID: 4715 |
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| About the Author grub 18th May 2011 3:53pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author John I Castle hill 22nd May 2011 2:20pm #UserID: 2671 |
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Wayne says... Don't give up John, you have just pruned it at the wrong time of year. Your tree will be dormant until about October so if it survives until then it will shoot. By pruning the tree now you have cut away this seasons crop so look forward to mangoes next year It could be worth a thought to seal the cuts to help keep rot out Cheers | About the Author Wayne 24th May 2011 5:55pm #UserID: 338 View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John I Castle hill 27th May 2011 6:31pm #UserID: 2671 |
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Mike says... I found that equal copper oxy and mancozeb help fungal diseases like anthracnose,pinks disease in annona and citrus but not that apparently does not stop the dreaded Phytopthera.I spray avos and durian with phosphonate to make sure there is no active phyto. Alot of the pictured trees have chloride,salt or fertliser/defiency problems especially those with burnt leaves. Things go better if you use sulphate fert not chloride,don't use too much gypsum (makes fe,mg and mn less available) or dolomite and know nutrient antogonisms and deficiency symptoms.Excess of P,N,Mg,K,Ca and Bo reduce availability of, in the same order Fe Mn,K,K N P Fe Ca, Mg Ca,P Mg and K respectively.It does depend on the species and your soil. | About the Author Mike Cairns 18th June 2011 8:05am #UserID: 5418 |
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| About the Author Lani Geraldton 5th July 2011 10:05pm #UserID: 5503 |
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| About the Author Lani Geraldton 5th July 2011 10:12pm #UserID: 5503 |
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| About the Author Lani Geraldton 5th July 2011 10:17pm #UserID: 5503 |
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| About the Author Lani Geraldton 5th July 2011 10:18pm #UserID: 5503 |
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| About the Author Lani Geraldton 5th July 2011 10:19pm #UserID: 5503 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. Mide West WA. 6th July 2011 9:10am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Lani says... Hi Amanda Thanks for that, appreciate it , so what do you think chop it back to the good parts and hope for the best, we have just recently put that green shadecloth behind the really brown one, we thought maybe it was lacking in something so have put trace elements in it etc, it gets fertilized but not too often , the healthy tree is around the corner of the shed more so maybe ?? but it gets the same treatment as the others do no the tap is over a trough next to the tree We also have an R2E2 , and it is great also, but husband likes the KP 's more so wants to try to grow these , very frustrating | About the Author Lani Geraldton 6th July 2011 10:53am #UserID: 5503 |
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amanda says... Hey Lani...some more info would be good...are you near the beach at all? Are you using scheme water or bore water for them? The trouble in Gero is that it is a 'salty' place ;) and the scheme water can be really poor quality - depending on which field bore the Water Corp is using. I picked up a kit from Think Water and had our tap water tested (cost $60) and the salt levels were very high...many fruit trees don't appreciate this at all - but mangoe, macadamia and loquat really struggle with it. Fertilisers can aggravate the problem by adding even more 'salts' - so you need to be careful with them. The shade cloth will help but keep an eye out for turbulence on the tree side. You can use a white paint on the trunks to prevent sunburn (water based I think? Not sure there) There is also a product called DroughtShield that is good (or even Parasol) - for summer. They are like a sunblock basically. They need large quantities of water in summer, here, to be really happy. I tend to use liquid fert's in summer - like Powerfeed and Seasol - less chance of 'burning' the trees then - and solid fert's in winter. Get some pig manure from Western Stone..it's fantastic stuff (my trees love it) and work this in with the winter rains...organic matter will help to buffer the salts. Mangoes appreciate some humidity in hot, windy dry weather also (think 40oC with the Easterly...! yukk) If you have sandy soil there - also get some clay and start working it in too. You will need to cut back all that dead growth - but wait until spring now. There are some great mangoe trees in town though so it must be possible!? Good luck :) | About the Author amanda Geraldton. Mide West WA. 8th July 2011 11:14am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Lani Geraldton 11th July 2011 11:01am #UserID: 5503 |
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Rana Rehan says... Dear friend could you guide me in my farm few mango trees suddenly fell down 80% leaves with in 4-5 days i already sprayed fungicide(dithane M-45 and score ) insecticide (salute) ridomil for root infection. applied NPK 100 gm with organic fertilizer but could not find any result . i also examined. is there any cut worm in stem or not here now temperature is about 46-48 centigrade. please guide me. thanks regards Rana
| About the Author Rana Rehan Qatar 24th July 2011 6:38am #UserID: 5578 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. Mide West WA. 24th July 2011 11:01am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Michael wakeley 8th August 2011 10:11pm #UserID: 1938 |
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| About the Author BJ Brisbane 9th August 2011 9:12am #UserID: 3270 View All BJ's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Mike Cairns 19th August 2011 8:22pm #UserID: 0 |
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MariaEl says... Could anyone tell me please what is the problem with my baby mango? I have it 6 months and recently it has started to appear this brownish on its leaves? Is it a fungus or what? You can also check the following link for its photo: http://img225.imageshack.us/content_round.php?page=done&l=img225/8829/210820112967.jpg
| About the Author MariaEl Greece 21st August 2011 9:05pm #UserID: 5698 |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 23rd August 2011 9:21am #UserID: 1947 |
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MariaEl says... Bredan thank you for your answer. However the attached photo wasn't the one I had posted. So please could you take a look once again in order to be sure that you check the correct problem??? I uploaded the right. The photo in the link was ok but in the thumbnail was different.. Too strange.. | About the Author MariaEl Greece 25th August 2011 8:12am #UserID: 5698 |
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Kman says... After returning from the garden to find a solution for my mango tree problem - browning curly leaves(just like your photos), after lots of research The issue is when mango trees are under any kind of stress they look like this! My tree is positioned in 88% sun near the bottom of a gradule hill in rich volcanic soil. We leave in a tropical rainforest climate, therefore have high rainfalls. I will guess that mango trees love water but they require GREAT drainage - so the solution for me would be to add alot of river sand to my soils. my tree is only 2.5m tall,so im considering to dig it up and add 1/4 ton sand to the plant site. Hopefully this will help. | About the Author Kman byron bay 6th September 2011 5:16pm #UserID: 5790 |
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grub says... hi again can some one tell me what causes mango leaf crinkle?it started this week it doesnt have mites or aphids unless they are minute ,we have had cold morning with cold winds 6 degress c now this week i did put a 5 cm layer of sheep manure well composted and 15 gms of trace elements then mulched it with lurceren hay and to top it of i sprayed the 30 gms mangozeb and 30 gms copper oxy in 4.5 liters of water with wetting agent i usually use 18 grm of both .and 3 weeks ago i gave it the 2:1:1 blood bone/epson salt/potash mix.. many thanks grub | About the Author grub 24th September 2011 1:04pm #UserID: 0 |
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vickey says... Hi. I tried to grow my own mangoes and planted stones. Germination was poor but I was succeed to get more than 50 plants out of 250 stones planted in polythene bags. Now I am facing this leaves burning, drying out and at the end stems also dry and plant is wasted. I have tried to change the media and transplanted them into new bags with new media. But again after couple of weeks, same problem occured and I am losing my plants. I also dippped stones in thiophenate methyl solution and irrigated with thiophenate methyl added water. I have also sprayed it to plants too. Please help me in this situation. Thanks
| About the Author vickey Pakistan 2nd October 2011 9:27pm #UserID: 5911 View All vickey's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Owch Vickey...they look very unhappy. They are "burnt" and you have a serious problem there. It could be all the chemical - if not it's a serious nutrient imbalance (eg: fertiliser or salinity burn) I don't know much about the chemical you are using and if it can do that - maybe someone else here..? I would stop using it and see if they improve - if not then you need to look at the fertilisers and water you are using. | About the Author amanda Geraldton. Mide West WA. 3rd October 2011 11:26am #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author grub 3rd October 2011 5:27pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author vickey Pakistan 3rd October 2011 7:05pm #UserID: 5911 View All vickey's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. Mide West WA. 4th October 2011 12:20pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John I Castle hill 10th October 2011 12:04pm #UserID: 2671 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. Mide West WA. 10th October 2011 12:19pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John I Castle hill 16th October 2011 12:12pm #UserID: 2671 |
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Denise says... Aloha all! I am sitting in my hammock under my 40+ yr old mango tree noticing that the tips of the leaves are turning brown. This tree has not bore fruit in over 8 years. We bought the house 11 years ago and the neighbours said this tree never gave fruit. Well, we watered it and fertilised it & it did for 3 years. Then totally stopped. The last fruit had black spots & never matured. Trimmed it back pretty good - really thinned it out. Have done that every other year. It grows VERY fast, thick and full. We have stopped fert & water as that didn't give fruit. Now we are on the windward side of the island about a mile from the ocean. We have pretty steady winds blowing off the water almost all the time. The brown tips are mostly on the ocean side of the tree on old growth. I thought that was how mango tree leaves die naturally! I see this site with talk to salt sensitivity? By air? Could salt air cause this? If so, should I just leave it. Other trees near us fruit and they are closer to the ocean. Can't tell if they have brown tips though. Yes I'd love some mango. But more importantly I'd love a healthy old tree. We put a Rapoza in our back yard and that flowers but doesn't fruit. We are mango cursed. :-) Mahalo! Denise | About the Author Denise Hawaii 17th October 2011 1:15pm #UserID: 5989 |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 18th October 2011 9:23am #UserID: 1947 |
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Rhys says... Hi, you would of heard this a thousand times before but im a newby to mango growing and we have just moved in to a property with a 10years + tree not sure what kind but assume its a KP. The tree flowered in late august and we had some cold weather and rain and the flowers started going black and the flowers dropping. Now mid october some of the flower stalk have small fruit with black dots. As you do i google it and found out about Anthracnose. I have just sprayed mancozeb. Is there any chance that we will have healthy fruit or would the anthracnose done its damage. It we arent going to get any fruit should i cut off all the dead flowers and fruit and feed with blood and bone and hope it flowers again. Can any one help me. Thanks | About the Author Rhys Tweed Heads 18th October 2011 9:34pm #UserID: 5998 |
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Brendan says... G'day Rhys, Yep, that's a classic example of anthracnose. You probably won't get any fruit this year because of it. Spray with a mix of 30g copper oxychloride, 30g mancozeb plus, in 4½ L water with 'enough' wetting agent to make sure it sticks. Usually about 30ml. Don't worry about cutting off any dead flowers, they'll drop off, but I always try to burn them. Back to the spraying, spray once a month (from now), until flowers form next year, then stop spraying. When the tiny fruit have formed, and you think you've got enough fruit, start spraying again, but, spray once a week for 4 weeks. Then spray monthly again till harvest. I'd fertilize with some sulphate of potash along with the blood n bone:-) | About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 19th October 2011 7:42am #UserID: 1947 |
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Rhys says... Hi Brendan, Thanks heaps for the reply. Now your going to wish you hadnt replied. When spraying how much will 4.5ltr cover and do i drench it or just lightly spray it? I have attached some photos of our tree. under the tree is some grass and dead leaves should i scrape this back to bare earth out to the tree line and then spread the fertilizer and apply mulch. What kind of mulch? and when should i fertilize? As you can see in the photo it needs prunning i have heard that you need to open up the canopy do you think this is what i need to do? I also have a sick avocado tree dont suppose you know about avacado trees?? Thanks again Brendan
| About the Author Rhys Tweed Heads 20th October 2011 2:54pm #UserID: 5998 |
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Brendan says... G'day Rhys, Check out this video: http://www.abc.net.au/local/videos/2011/05/05/3208266.htm As for under the tree, sulphate of potash fertilizer will 'harden-up' the trees, handful/sq m, lots of mulch (anything) out to the drip line, but keep away from the trunk. Good luck! Btw, pic 3 is a perfect example of anthracnose, some of my small avocados are like that. Been sprayed, but rain keeps washing it off :-( | About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 21st October 2011 8:43am #UserID: 1947 |
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Rhys says... Cheers Brendan, Yeah the rain doesnt help!! Here are some pictures of my avocado tree just starting to flower. I think the bush lemon tree next to it is shading it during the day might have to cut it back a bit. When do avocado trees fruit?
| About the Author Rhys Tweed Heads 22nd October 2011 12:21am #UserID: 5998 |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 22nd October 2011 7:19am #UserID: 1947 |
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David says... Back to Vicki in Pakistan with your seedling problem, did you solve your problem? I had a similar problem with some seedlings. If they have been in full sun I would put under shadecloth, which is recommended for mango seedlings. I am not sure what caused the issue with mine, although in that small greenhouse I had the seedlings in I did have a rot rot infection which claimed some of the seedlings as I was maintaining too much moisture. A root rot soil drench will help cure this. Trouble is, by the time you see the symptoms coming up the stem the seedling is gone. I used Fongarid (by Syngenta) to treat for root rot and dropped the moisture levels. I think the root rot fungus was pythium. | About the Author David Perth 23rd October 2011 2:43am #UserID: 6019 |
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| About the Author hunny pakistan 24th October 2011 11:00am #UserID: 6027 |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 25th October 2011 9:07am #UserID: 1947 |
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| About the Author John I Castle hill 7th November 2011 4:47pm #UserID: 2671 |
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Rana Rehan says... Dear friend could you guide me I am from Qatar middle east. here humidity now 45% but sometimes it goes to 60% temperature 18-34C soil pH 7-8 composition of soil 55% sand 30% clay 10% organic ferlilizer and 5% peatmoss wind NW 14 Km/hr.i would like to know about my mango plants. There is not any healthy growth plants are dieing due to the die back disease. you just look at pictures. i weakly spray with score 250EC(difenoconazole)0.5ml/liter and Dithanne M-45 2gm/liter but there is not good result. right now i am using Miller nutrileaf to get healthy growth for my mango. but it is seemed same before. please help me thanks regards Rana
| About the Author Rana Rehan Doha Qatar 12th November 2011 3:17am #UserID: 5578 |
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| About the Author Rana Rehan Doha Qatar 12th November 2011 3:37am #UserID: 5578 |
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| About the Author Graeme 14th November 2011 12:08pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author Rana Rehan Qatar 17th November 2011 3:46am #UserID: 5578 |
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David says... Rana, have you tested the level of salts in your soil and irrigation water? Mangoes do not like high salinity levels. Another thought I had was lime toxicity which occurs in areas with high limestone deposits. The high ph causes mineral deficiency which ultimately kills the tree. Are either of these possible in your area? | About the Author David Perth 20th November 2011 2:18am #UserID: 6019 |
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| About the Author John I Castle hill 22nd November 2011 12:12pm #UserID: 2671 |
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grub says... rana are you using bore water looks like a alkline problem we suffer here in the south west.... it looks like the problem i had earlier this year ,i had my water tested and my ph was 8.5 and the salts were 400 ppm my trees that got water on the leaves look the same as yours, the leafs went grey and all crinkle and dry .. | About the Author grub 23rd November 2011 6:46pm #UserID: 0 |
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amanda says... Hey grub - shame about that pH for your bore water..? Our tap (!) water is pH 8 so not that far behind you. It's good u had it tested tho. I am wondering if the quality of some WA bore water might be getting worse due the dry conditions..? Did the testing company give you any advice re: the salt levels? | About the Author amanda Geraldton. Mide West WA. 23rd November 2011 7:56pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author grub 27th November 2011 12:16pm #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton. Mide West WA. 27th November 2011 11:51pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John I Castle hill 29th November 2011 4:53pm #UserID: 2671 |
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amanda says... Maybe it's a mangoe fire blight? http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0018/413631/Fire-blight-flyer.pdf http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0009/120114/blight-disease-mango.pdf | About the Author amanda Geraldton. Mide West WA. 29th November 2011 5:39pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author John I Castle hill 1st December 2011 5:37pm #UserID: 2671 |
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| About the Author amanda Geraldton, Mid West WA 1st December 2011 7:16pm #UserID: 2309 View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Salina DK says... Hello everyone. Denmark calling with a "giant" mango problem. All my mangos are grown in pots indoors since the weather here are not mangofriendly. But suddenly 4 out 9 plants started to get brown tips on the leaves, spreading inwards and then the whole leaf is brown and crispy. it started from the bottom and then went upwards to the top. my plants dont soak in water and i have used citrus fertilizer (was that bad or?) since i cant really get a real mango fertilizer here in Denmark. Can i mix my own or is the Citrus okay to use on mangos? i hope you can help me | About the Author Salina DK 22nd December 2011 3:56pm #UserID: 6281 |
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| About the Author David Perth 23rd December 2011 1:51am #UserID: 6019 |
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| About the Author Salina DK Denmark 23rd December 2011 1:58am #UserID: 6281 |
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David says... Salina, I think the demand for nutrients during your winter would be very low. In pots it is easy to get a build up of salts. If possible you may check the EC (electrical conductivity ) of your soil to see if this has happened. Here are a couple of links that might help: http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tropicalfruits/msg0701133317521.html http://www.pir.sa.gov.au/pirsa/more/factsheets/fact_sheets/salinity/testing_for_soil_and_water_salinity | About the Author David Perth 24th December 2011 2:08am #UserID: 6019 |
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| About the Author John I Castle Hill 7th January 2012 2:09pm #UserID: 0 |
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Selfsufficientme says... Wow! This is a huge thread on mango tree issues (mostly issues) and it shows what a pain it is growing this fruit . When i lived in Darwin i saw people harvesting disease free mangoes from large trees growing carefree in the local parks - made me think growing them would be easy. What a shame i too will now cut my tree back harshly in frustration to see if i can beat the diseases and make a productive fruiting tree instead of a shade maker. If only my mangoes grew as good as my oranges... :) | About the Author Selfsufficientme Bellmere 7th January 2012 3:02pm #UserID: 6114 |
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| About the Author David Perth 8th January 2012 1:25am #UserID: 6019 |
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Twampes says... Hello every body, I've got a mango plant, planted from sead. I live in Holland so the winters are very cold, so i keep it inside in winter. In summer i put the plant outside, my plant is now a year old and know the leaves are turning brown. First just one, but now almost all leaves ar getting dangerously brown. So I'm worryd about my plant, and i hoped some can tell me what it is and what to do. I added some pics so you can see. thank you
| About the Author Twampes Holland 11th January 2012 3:52am #UserID: 6380 |
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| About the Author Twampes Holland 11th January 2012 3:55am #UserID: 6380 |
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| About the Author Twampes Holland 11th January 2012 3:59am #UserID: 6380 |
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David says... I think maybe over-fertalizing, in which case the same advice as to Salina would apply. I would avoid having the soil moist all the time as too frequent watering may invite fungal infection. Do you know what type of mango it was that you got the seed from? Some varieties can grow true to type from seed. I think most of the varieties sold in Europe will not be true to type, so if it is one of these then it can also possibly be a weak seedling . | About the Author David Perth 19th January 2012 1:19am #UserID: 6019 |
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Twampes says... Thanks for your reply David! I don't know what type of seed/mango it was. It's just some mango from the super market. I don't use any fertalizing. Only the ground I put it in had some white (small) balls with nitrate and such. But the weird thing is dat it growd super nice and after a year it started to gow brown. Also I repotted the plant a few months ago, mayve this has some thing to do with it. And the plant is now making new leaves as if theres nothing wrong. And a alsways use water from the tap, maybe there is to much chloride or salt, or lime? | About the Author Twampes Holland 19th January 2012 11:51pm #UserID: 6380 |
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| About the Author David Perth 20th January 2012 1:28am #UserID: 6019 |
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| About the Author Twampes 22nd January 2012 2:02am #UserID: 6380 |
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| About the Author grub 23rd January 2012 1:07pm #UserID: 0 |
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Twampes says... No just from the tap, I pore some water in the pot every 3 days or so. trying to keep the soil wet at all times, maybe this what I did wrong. Now I water less then I did before. Hoping it will result in a healthyer plant. Butt most of the leaves are dead, and a few already fell of. I also want to try en flush the whole pot with water for a few minutes, so al the salt can disolve en come out at the bottom. because now I'm watering so that no water comes out of the bottom(sow the salt level keeps rising) | About the Author Twampes 26th January 2012 3:22am #UserID: 6380 |
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Kathy says... Twampes - I don't know about salt levels in water in the Netherlands but just a few other things to consider. I guess you are in the middle of your winter - so your plant has been indoors now for a few months? Has the main problem started in these indoor months? If so maybe your plant is not getting enough sun. I see you have it by the window - but does a LOT of sun come in there? I'd think it is a good idea to let the soil in the pot DRY OUT and then water - for example water only once the soil is dry. Don't let the saucer under the pot accumulate water - otherwise the tree is sitting in water - which it might not like. Here in Maleny (where winter can be cold for Queensland conditions e.g. from 4 to 21 degrees celsius)- mango trees can lose their leaves during winter - and when spring arrives - they get beautiful new leaves. Good luck! I guess you are growing for the leaves not any possibility of fruit? If you want fruit I think you need to buy a grafted mango (so you know the quality of the fruit you'll get. Kathy | About the Author Kathy Maleny, Qld 26th January 2012 7:40am #UserID: 5954 View All Kathy's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author fire 31st January 2012 5:28am #UserID: 0 |
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Herman says... Hi all! I've been growing a couple of mangoes from seeds to be used as root stocks. They are 5 months old, and recently I've noticed some brown/dark brown discoloration, especially on the tips, of a few leaves. Anyone have ideas what they are caused by? I'm using 1:1:1 turface, pine bark, and granite grit so drainage is excellent; I don't think it's an overwatering issue. I don't think it is over fertilizing either. I only feed them liquid kelp at half the labelled doses. Thanks in advance! Here are some pics:
| About the Author Herman 11th February 2012 3:35pm #UserID: 6457 |
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denise. says... From the photo it appears you have a soilless mix. Sometimes I have gone fancy with potting mix such as yours and results can be poor. Roots need some proper soil or composted mix which serves to buffer against any buildup of chemicals etc and allow beneficial fungi etc. Try adding real soil or totally replace with a proper potting mix. Soil-less mixes are more suited to hydroponic techniques. | About the Author denise. 12th February 2012 6:51am #UserID: 0 |
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| About the Author Herman 12th February 2012 7:18am #UserID: 6457 |
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Mike says... Herman,Denise is on the money and a 50 to 50 mix of premium potting mix and soil with good humus and drainage in a tall pot might be better.Rootstock should be a tough disease resistant strain like the feral stringy/terpentine.Good air circulation and increasing sunlight with age would also help.Approach grafting has a high rate of success if you're not a seasoned grafter but your have to take the rootstock tp the scion.With cleft grafting you can keep chopping lower and doing it again if it doesn't take. | About the Author Mike Cairns 12th February 2012 7:57am #UserID: 0 |
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