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Yuri
Gold Coast
21st June 2007
Matthew Gray says...
I have built a raised veggie patch using recycled bricks. I'm no bricklayer (just ask my wife!) but the garden edge is up to five bricks high, and forming a robust, water proof and termite-free edge. Every piece of timber lying in our yard has termites in it, including all the hardwood sleepers that made up the previous garden edges. One of the tricks is to put no mortar between the bricks, just butt them up close; this allows any excess water to drain away without rotting the plants, extra important in our hot wet summers (or at least the hot wet summers we used to have!).
I have built a raised veggie patch using recycled bricks. I'm no bricklayer (just ask my wife!) but the garden edge is up to five bricks high, and forming a robust, water proof and termite-free edge. Every piece of timber lying in our yard has termites in it, including all the hardwood sleepers that made up the previous garden edges. One of the tricks is to put no mortar between the bricks, just butt them up close; this allows any excess water to drain away without rotting the plants, extra important in our hot wet summers (or at least the hot wet summers we used to have!).
Matthew Gray
Caboolture, Qld
21st June 2007
Kath says...
I did this the other way around as I needed a retaining wall and split it in two to include a raised garden bed in the middle of the walls. Rocks were our choice of material, at $16 per tonne they work out about the same price as bricks by the time they are laid. Termite proof and gorgeous. It is fantastic, has excellent drainage and weeding is no longer a back breaking chore as there is no bending and in the summer there are plenty of strawberries to enjoy along the length. I grow lots of greens, lettuce, cabbage and herbs, with my strawberries and flowers. The added bonus is that my frogs love it, I have at least six different types of ground dwelling and tree frogs in residence.
I did this the other way around as I needed a retaining wall and split it in two to include a raised garden bed in the middle of the walls. Rocks were our choice of material, at $16 per tonne they work out about the same price as bricks by the time they are laid. Termite proof and gorgeous. It is fantastic, has excellent drainage and weeding is no longer a back breaking chore as there is no bending and in the summer there are plenty of strawberries to enjoy along the length. I grow lots of greens, lettuce, cabbage and herbs, with my strawberries and flowers. The added bonus is that my frogs love it, I have at least six different types of ground dwelling and tree frogs in residence.
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 | |
Kath
Cawongla
22nd June 2007
Correy
Woolloongabba
22nd June 2007
Gibbo says...
We have raised garden beds. Saves on the back later on. We used 1/2 garden soil and 1/2 mushroom compost. I tested the soil out on two 20m rows of murraya plants I planted first. I have included the pictures so you can see the difference. Both were planted at the same time and were the same size given the same amount of water and are 4m apart.
We have raised garden beds. Saves on the back later on. We used 1/2 garden soil and 1/2 mushroom compost. I tested the soil out on two 20m rows of murraya plants I planted first. I have included the pictures so you can see the difference. Both were planted at the same time and were the same size given the same amount of water and are 4m apart.
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 |  Picture: 3 |
Gibbo
Cedar Vale
22nd June 2007
Jan says...
In response to Yuri. My garden beds are made from 200 x 50 mm treated hardwood sleepers. Treated will last longer than untreated. I've used 100 x 75 treated hardwood on the inside corners that I have drilled and bolted to hold them together. I have the corner uprights at 600mm high. The beds are one sleeper high at the moment but after each crop I will raise them by another sleepr with more compost and soil. My beds will be 600mm high to help with the back problems for the latter years. The next garden beds that I do I am going to make the uprights at 1800mm high. This way I can use them as the braces for trellis work. Hope this helps. You can make garden beds out of just about anything. You just have to have immagination. I've seen one that was made out of beer bottles compoed together and concreted on the inside edge. Very effective and different. The bottoms of the bottles were facing outwards. THe person admitted it was great drinking the beer to get the empties. And there wasn't any extra cost eccept for some cement and sand. As he already was a drinker. Now he is a recycler also.
In response to Yuri. My garden beds are made from 200 x 50 mm treated hardwood sleepers. Treated will last longer than untreated. I've used 100 x 75 treated hardwood on the inside corners that I have drilled and bolted to hold them together. I have the corner uprights at 600mm high. The beds are one sleeper high at the moment but after each crop I will raise them by another sleepr with more compost and soil. My beds will be 600mm high to help with the back problems for the latter years. The next garden beds that I do I am going to make the uprights at 1800mm high. This way I can use them as the braces for trellis work. Hope this helps. You can make garden beds out of just about anything. You just have to have immagination. I've seen one that was made out of beer bottles compoed together and concreted on the inside edge. Very effective and different. The bottoms of the bottles were facing outwards. THe person admitted it was great drinking the beer to get the empties. And there wasn't any extra cost eccept for some cement and sand. As he already was a drinker. Now he is a recycler also.
Jan
Bundamba Qld.
22nd June 2007
Dave Lambert
24th June 2007
Jan says...
Dave. I realise treated sleepers contain poison to do the job of repelling pest infestation. Unfortunately, most foods grown (whether it be vegies , fruit, meat or poultry) are treated with a poison of some form to reach maturity for sale. All treated foods have a withholding period before being released for human consumption. It would be nice to be able to grow or buy all food totally organic, but as a pensioner I can't afford to. As I said in my previous notes, garden beds can be made out of anything. Only limited by our imagination or pocket.I think if treated sleepers were going to poison us, it would have been found out by now and they would no longer be able to be sold to be used in our vegie gardens. Look at what they show about cigarette smoking and that doesn't deter many people at all. There are are a lot of things that people don't agree with in this world and this will probably be one of them. We can only try to do the best for ourselves. Everyones opinion helps each other to reach their own decision. Whether it be right or wrong.
Dave. I realise treated sleepers contain poison to do the job of repelling pest infestation. Unfortunately, most foods grown (whether it be vegies , fruit, meat or poultry) are treated with a poison of some form to reach maturity for sale. All treated foods have a withholding period before being released for human consumption. It would be nice to be able to grow or buy all food totally organic, but as a pensioner I can't afford to. As I said in my previous notes, garden beds can be made out of anything. Only limited by our imagination or pocket.I think if treated sleepers were going to poison us, it would have been found out by now and they would no longer be able to be sold to be used in our vegie gardens. Look at what they show about cigarette smoking and that doesn't deter many people at all. There are are a lot of things that people don't agree with in this world and this will probably be one of them. We can only try to do the best for ourselves. Everyones opinion helps each other to reach their own decision. Whether it be right or wrong.
Jan
Bundamba
25th June 2007
DellDGM says...
With regard to the treated sleepers - I spoke to the nurseries here (including a few stating to be organic friendly) when I went to make my vegies patches I had some old treated pine boards from a retaining wall that we took down when we extended our house and the general consensus (it only differed by the amount of years) that after being out in the weather for more than 2 years there would be no poisons left in them. Ours are about 13 years old now so well and truly poison free but yeat no sign of rot or breakdown - Old treated pine is quite cheap to pick up at garage sales and demolition sales so there is a cheap way to build a raised vegie patch.
With regard to the treated sleepers - I spoke to the nurseries here (including a few stating to be organic friendly) when I went to make my vegies patches I had some old treated pine boards from a retaining wall that we took down when we extended our house and the general consensus (it only differed by the amount of years) that after being out in the weather for more than 2 years there would be no poisons left in them. Ours are about 13 years old now so well and truly poison free but yeat no sign of rot or breakdown - Old treated pine is quite cheap to pick up at garage sales and demolition sales so there is a cheap way to build a raised vegie patch.
DellDGM
Adelaide
29th June 2007
Jan says...
Hi Dell. Thank you for your input. I think timber is treated with different types of poison depending on what their use is going to be. Garden timbers Usually state CCA Treated. What the CCA stands for I don't know. I worked for a tile company 20 years ago and the wooden pallets that came in from overseas had to be treated against bug and vermon infestation. We were warned about these pallets not to use them in any fires not even for fireplaces and definately not in Barbys. The poison used in the pallets was very harmful to humans if the smoke when burned was breathed in. I've seen people have aviaries made from treated timber without any problem to the birds. As long as the birds are not of any of the hooked beak varieties. Hooked beak birds tend be chewers of timber. Pointy beak don't have a problem with it. But if anyone is worried about using treated timber, the easiest way is not to use it. I use the CCA treated sleepers and have no worries about doing so.
HAPPY GARDENING EVERYONE.
Hi Dell. Thank you for your input. I think timber is treated with different types of poison depending on what their use is going to be. Garden timbers Usually state CCA Treated. What the CCA stands for I don't know. I worked for a tile company 20 years ago and the wooden pallets that came in from overseas had to be treated against bug and vermon infestation. We were warned about these pallets not to use them in any fires not even for fireplaces and definately not in Barbys. The poison used in the pallets was very harmful to humans if the smoke when burned was breathed in. I've seen people have aviaries made from treated timber without any problem to the birds. As long as the birds are not of any of the hooked beak varieties. Hooked beak birds tend be chewers of timber. Pointy beak don't have a problem with it. But if anyone is worried about using treated timber, the easiest way is not to use it. I use the CCA treated sleepers and have no worries about doing so.
HAPPY GARDENING EVERYONE.
Jan
Bundamba Qld.
29th June 2007
Gourd says...
CCA stands for the three ingredients it is made up from, Copper, Chromium, Arsenic. the cromium and arsenic are carcinogenic to humans so using it in a wet area like a vege bed is probably not a great idea :)
a good alternative is redgum sleepers you can buy at bunnings or any recycled untreated hardwood timber, with so many options, why one would go for CCA is beyond me.
CCA stands for the three ingredients it is made up from, Copper, Chromium, Arsenic. the cromium and arsenic are carcinogenic to humans so using it in a wet area like a vege bed is probably not a great idea :)
a good alternative is redgum sleepers you can buy at bunnings or any recycled untreated hardwood timber, with so many options, why one would go for CCA is beyond me.
Gourd
Victoria
9th July 2007
Suzy says...
Hi there,
This is directed to Matthew Gray (re the use of bricks as the walls, 5 bricks high) in the hope you might still read this a few weeks after your post - sorry to be a derr, but could you explain how you mean to 'butt them up' against each other? How does the wall stay upright, with the soil pressing against it from the inside of the garden bed - I'm sure there is a simple answer, but I would love to know a bit more!
We have veggie beds that we built with untreated hardwood 4 years ago. Termites haven't got them yet, but I am sure either they, and/or the weather, will eventually break them down over the next 2 or 3 years. When that happens, it would be good to replace them with something as practical as reclaimed house bricks or similar.
Thanks!
Hi there,
This is directed to Matthew Gray (re the use of bricks as the walls, 5 bricks high) in the hope you might still read this a few weeks after your post - sorry to be a derr, but could you explain how you mean to 'butt them up' against each other? How does the wall stay upright, with the soil pressing against it from the inside of the garden bed - I'm sure there is a simple answer, but I would love to know a bit more!
We have veggie beds that we built with untreated hardwood 4 years ago. Termites haven't got them yet, but I am sure either they, and/or the weather, will eventually break them down over the next 2 or 3 years. When that happens, it would be good to replace them with something as practical as reclaimed house bricks or similar.
Thanks!
Suzy
Coffs Harbour
25th July 2007
Scott G says...
(Suzy, I too would like to know how the bricks say up!)
My vege garden is on a gentle slope so I hold the soil back with sleepers like a stair case with each step only one sleeper high. The sleepers are held back with stub star-pickets.
Leeching of the poisons into my soil was a concern of mine so I bought old railway sleepers. I also like the rustic look of them. As an added bonus these old sleepers don’t have splinters.
There are termites here-and-there in my garden and I am sure they have been nibbling at the sleepers. I didn't expect the sleepers to last forever so I made them easy to replace. But 4 years on they are still solid.
(Suzy, I too would like to know how the bricks say up!)
My vege garden is on a gentle slope so I hold the soil back with sleepers like a stair case with each step only one sleeper high. The sleepers are held back with stub star-pickets.
Leeching of the poisons into my soil was a concern of mine so I bought old railway sleepers. I also like the rustic look of them. As an added bonus these old sleepers don’t have splinters.
There are termites here-and-there in my garden and I am sure they have been nibbling at the sleepers. I didn't expect the sleepers to last forever so I made them easy to replace. But 4 years on they are still solid.
Scott G
Gold Coast
27th July 2007
Kath
Cawongla
30th July 2007
Katrina
nundah
31st July 2007
Jan
Bundamba Qld
31st July 2007
Scott G says...
I Might have got some 4 years ago from Preston Landscape Supplies. A year ago I got sleepers from Builders Depot (in Molendinar on The Gold Coast). They haven't always had them in stock. I would think it is just a matter of ringing around. When I bought 2 a year ago they had gotten very expensive and I had to wait for them to "come in". I was told they had become very popular and QLD rail had very little to distribute. The lot that I got some from had to come from NSW. They were longer and in very bad condition.
I Might have got some 4 years ago from Preston Landscape Supplies. A year ago I got sleepers from Builders Depot (in Molendinar on The Gold Coast). They haven't always had them in stock. I would think it is just a matter of ringing around. When I bought 2 a year ago they had gotten very expensive and I had to wait for them to "come in". I was told they had become very popular and QLD rail had very little to distribute. The lot that I got some from had to come from NSW. They were longer and in very bad condition.
Scott G
Gold Coast
1st August 2007
Paul says...
I am interested in what people are saying about built up gardens. I am about to commence this method of gardening and I would like to know the best ingredients along with the Red soil from Alsonville. I intend making a base of sand with a black plaqstic over the top on a gentle slope to capture the excess water after it has perculated past the roots of the vegetable plants and being captured for re use. Has anyone ever used macadamia husks(ground) to include in the soil.
I am interested in what people are saying about built up gardens. I am about to commence this method of gardening and I would like to know the best ingredients along with the Red soil from Alsonville. I intend making a base of sand with a black plaqstic over the top on a gentle slope to capture the excess water after it has perculated past the roots of the vegetable plants and being captured for re use. Has anyone ever used macadamia husks(ground) to include in the soil.
Paul
Alstonville
10th August 2007
ashe
bilambil hgts
10th August 2007
ioian says...
I used old railway sleepers from the cane train that was stopped when they closed the sugar mill on the sunshine coast - I was looking for ages for untreated sleepers and ended up buying them direct from the farmer who owned the tracks. Some timber places get them every now and then, but they are scarce. There are also concrete replicas they make now - $20 each though for about a metre long - ouch!
There is an interesting US study into CCA. The conclusion of which is below. They say that the levels should be ok for adults but long time ingestion could be a problem.
I don't think I would want to be ingesting Arsenic from home gardens - especially when growing vegies at home is mainly to avoid chemicals.
Apparently CSIRO says that lining the garden with plastic is the way to go if you have CCA timber.
---
Click for link to study
Chromated copper arsenate–treated wood in raised garden beds diffused As, Cu, and Cr into adjacent garden soil. This study clearly showed that CCA-treated wood in service can be a local point source for elevated levels of As, Cu, and Cr in the environment and therefore existing structures may continue to be a problem. Results of the plant uptake study showed that vegetable crops grown in these raised garden beds can accumulate significant concentrations of As, but based on U.S. Public Health Service standards, these vegetables would be safe for human consumption. However, based on the USEPA's standard, some of the vegetable crops may not be safe for sustained consumption. The microbial resistance study clearly showed that the ability to establish colonies in CCA-amended media was greater in communities of bacteria from soils close to the treated wood compared with those from reference soils. These results suggest that long-term diffusion of As, Cu, and Cr away from aging CCA-treated wood surfaces may have ecological implications.
I used old railway sleepers from the cane train that was stopped when they closed the sugar mill on the sunshine coast - I was looking for ages for untreated sleepers and ended up buying them direct from the farmer who owned the tracks. Some timber places get them every now and then, but they are scarce. There are also concrete replicas they make now - $20 each though for about a metre long - ouch!
There is an interesting US study into CCA. The conclusion of which is below. They say that the levels should be ok for adults but long time ingestion could be a problem.
I don't think I would want to be ingesting Arsenic from home gardens - especially when growing vegies at home is mainly to avoid chemicals.
Apparently CSIRO says that lining the garden with plastic is the way to go if you have CCA timber.
---
Click for link to study
Chromated copper arsenate–treated wood in raised garden beds diffused As, Cu, and Cr into adjacent garden soil. This study clearly showed that CCA-treated wood in service can be a local point source for elevated levels of As, Cu, and Cr in the environment and therefore existing structures may continue to be a problem. Results of the plant uptake study showed that vegetable crops grown in these raised garden beds can accumulate significant concentrations of As, but based on U.S. Public Health Service standards, these vegetables would be safe for human consumption. However, based on the USEPA's standard, some of the vegetable crops may not be safe for sustained consumption. The microbial resistance study clearly showed that the ability to establish colonies in CCA-amended media was greater in communities of bacteria from soils close to the treated wood compared with those from reference soils. These results suggest that long-term diffusion of As, Cu, and Cr away from aging CCA-treated wood surfaces may have ecological implications.
ioian
sunshine coast
27th August 2007
Bazza says...
For Katrina/Jan,
You will not have any success approaching Qld Rail. I retired as a Station Master from QR in 2000 and was still receiving calls of that nature after we had been running Trains on "cement" for many years. Even the old sleepers in my photo are not available here now but you will notice "off cuts" which i use from country saw mill at 3 bucks a piece. The other photo shows what is plentiful from garden supplierss
All The Best Bazza
For Katrina/Jan,
You will not have any success approaching Qld Rail. I retired as a Station Master from QR in 2000 and was still receiving calls of that nature after we had been running Trains on "cement" for many years. Even the old sleepers in my photo are not available here now but you will notice "off cuts" which i use from country saw mill at 3 bucks a piece. The other photo shows what is plentiful from garden supplierss
All The Best Bazza
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 |  Picture: 3 |
Bazza
Bundaberg Aus
28th August 2007
Tom says...
I too, was looking for a cheap alternative to build a backyard vegie garden. After a while of looking at different methods and styles the easiest method I have come up with is the re-use of old fridges. These are cheap (cost nothing), long/deep enough for vegies and very portable.
Simply remove door/s and any internal fixtures, drill drainage holes and place in a suitable location. Eventually they will rust out, but this is a good time to renew the soil mix and discard the old fridge.
I too, was looking for a cheap alternative to build a backyard vegie garden. After a while of looking at different methods and styles the easiest method I have come up with is the re-use of old fridges. These are cheap (cost nothing), long/deep enough for vegies and very portable.
Simply remove door/s and any internal fixtures, drill drainage holes and place in a suitable location. Eventually they will rust out, but this is a good time to renew the soil mix and discard the old fridge.
Tom
Ipswich
9th September 2007
Paul
Alstonville
9th September 2007
deb
melb
30th September 2007
deb
melb
30th September 2007
Leona
Perth
30th September 2007
Jared says...
Paul from Alstonville - as for garden beds with red soil, Gbah is similar soil, we condition with horse manure (there is one guy who sells reasonable bags of it on the Ballina Highway between the Regatta estate (he is on the grass verge 100 metres past the Oliver Avenue intersection) and the Gbah 2lm centre and another place, a property on the left side of the road between the Alstonville Maze Place and the turn off to go to Rous School), also use homemade compost from grass clippings, vegi scraps, other greenery that has been clipped.
Anything else you can add to stop the red soil turning to clay everytime it rains, such as shredded palm fronds, mulched branches, farmers friends that have been stewed (get an old wheelie bin, add farmers friends and rain water, then close and leave to cook for several months, they dont sprout as the seeds have rotted by then). Cardboard and shredded newspaper break down as well, although if you want totally organic then the glue in the cardboard may be an issue.
We have used macca shells (and whole maccas that have been bored into etc) in the front garden (not all vegies there) but a warning, dont use them anywhere you or children are likely to walk barefoot. We havent had the macca shells in mass quantity (we have one mature tree) but the shells and the husks seem to be breaking down at an ok rate and none of the plants (mixture of natives, citrus, herbs, coleus and lavenders) seem to mind them.
Oh and the teatree mulch from Richmond Sand & Gravel is great, a little bit pricey but well worth it, and it breaks down really fast if dug in, but if left on top it is quite a good mulch. Warning - it can give you nasty splinters, so wear gloves when doing the original mulching.
Hope that helps!
Paul from Alstonville - as for garden beds with red soil, Gbah is similar soil, we condition with horse manure (there is one guy who sells reasonable bags of it on the Ballina Highway between the Regatta estate (he is on the grass verge 100 metres past the Oliver Avenue intersection) and the Gbah 2lm centre and another place, a property on the left side of the road between the Alstonville Maze Place and the turn off to go to Rous School), also use homemade compost from grass clippings, vegi scraps, other greenery that has been clipped.
Anything else you can add to stop the red soil turning to clay everytime it rains, such as shredded palm fronds, mulched branches, farmers friends that have been stewed (get an old wheelie bin, add farmers friends and rain water, then close and leave to cook for several months, they dont sprout as the seeds have rotted by then). Cardboard and shredded newspaper break down as well, although if you want totally organic then the glue in the cardboard may be an issue.
We have used macca shells (and whole maccas that have been bored into etc) in the front garden (not all vegies there) but a warning, dont use them anywhere you or children are likely to walk barefoot. We havent had the macca shells in mass quantity (we have one mature tree) but the shells and the husks seem to be breaking down at an ok rate and none of the plants (mixture of natives, citrus, herbs, coleus and lavenders) seem to mind them.
Oh and the teatree mulch from Richmond Sand & Gravel is great, a little bit pricey but well worth it, and it breaks down really fast if dug in, but if left on top it is quite a good mulch. Warning - it can give you nasty splinters, so wear gloves when doing the original mulching.
Hope that helps!
Jared
Goonellabah
2nd October 2007
Jared says...
Railway sleepers, um lets see, side of the road anywhere in NSW where there is a train track(seriously, nsw rail lets them rot on the side of the roads, I have seen many piles of them sitting for years, some are that grown over with vegetation you would think it was a natural mound (wish i had a trailer or ute!)
Railway sleepers, um lets see, side of the road anywhere in NSW where there is a train track(seriously, nsw rail lets them rot on the side of the roads, I have seen many piles of them sitting for years, some are that grown over with vegetation you would think it was a natural mound (wish i had a trailer or ute!)
Jared
Goonellabah
2nd October 2007
Jared says...
CCA, well my girlfriend used to work at a plywood factory as weekend casual, they were warned when working with the treated ply and had to wear gloves at all times and report any splinters immediately. She said that on occasion a board would graze just above the glove at the wrist and would cause quite nasty rashes, even when it didnt open the skin during contact.
Also they had to wear masks to avoid inhaling any dust when working with or shifting the treated boards or veneers.
Coppers logs apparently no longer have the same "treatment" formula, but they were never recommended for contact with food producing gardens.
CCA, well my girlfriend used to work at a plywood factory as weekend casual, they were warned when working with the treated ply and had to wear gloves at all times and report any splinters immediately. She said that on occasion a board would graze just above the glove at the wrist and would cause quite nasty rashes, even when it didnt open the skin during contact.
Also they had to wear masks to avoid inhaling any dust when working with or shifting the treated boards or veneers.
Coppers logs apparently no longer have the same "treatment" formula, but they were never recommended for contact with food producing gardens.
Jared
Goonellabah
2nd October 2007
Paul says...
Thanks Jarred for that information. I am going to make a raised vegie patch by using coppers logs posts cut legthways in half and then use old 4X2 hardwood timber attached to the coppers log on the inside of the garden so that the soil only comes into contact with the hardwood timber. When done I will post a photo.
Paul
Thanks Jarred for that information. I am going to make a raised vegie patch by using coppers logs posts cut legthways in half and then use old 4X2 hardwood timber attached to the coppers log on the inside of the garden so that the soil only comes into contact with the hardwood timber. When done I will post a photo.
Paul
Paul
Alstonville
2nd October 2007
Cindy says...
I came across this site in my search for raised garden bed ideas. So far I think this is the cheapest and easiest way to make the beds and will be how I plant out my veges. Not quite sure though how to keep 3 large dogs off it.....
http://www.lensgarden.com.au/straw_bale_garden.htm
I came across this site in my search for raised garden bed ideas. So far I think this is the cheapest and easiest way to make the beds and will be how I plant out my veges. Not quite sure though how to keep 3 large dogs off it.....
http://www.lensgarden.com.au/straw_bale_garden.htm
Cindy
Central Coast NSW
4th October 2007
Elvie says...
Well I am in the process of setting out a new vegetable garden and thought I would share with you all the process for a no dig, raised garden which I first read about in the late 70's. This can be built directly on top of the ground, weeds and all, or concrete or on a high-rise balcony without any problem. I have built this garden many years ago and you could literally see the vegies growing! Impresse the nwighbours totally. You can use whatever material to contain the bed, but I have some old redgum 250mm x 50mm planks and will need to see what is available to extend the bed sizes. Firstly, place newspapers 10mm deep and overlapping to restrict the weeds. (Easy to collect with help of friends) Next add biskets of lucerne as they come from the bale (a bit expensive at present with the drought), and sprinkle with organic fertilizer. Next spread with about 150mm straw and finally add 75-100mm good compost/manure about 450mm width in growing rows. Seeds or seedlings can be grown directly into this. After the summer crops it all will have broken down somwhat so just add more compost ready for winter planting. It doesn't require any digging so is easy on the back. Planting a combination of vegetables, herbs and flowers, if liked, works very well. Good luck.
Well I am in the process of setting out a new vegetable garden and thought I would share with you all the process for a no dig, raised garden which I first read about in the late 70's. This can be built directly on top of the ground, weeds and all, or concrete or on a high-rise balcony without any problem. I have built this garden many years ago and you could literally see the vegies growing! Impresse the nwighbours totally. You can use whatever material to contain the bed, but I have some old redgum 250mm x 50mm planks and will need to see what is available to extend the bed sizes. Firstly, place newspapers 10mm deep and overlapping to restrict the weeds. (Easy to collect with help of friends) Next add biskets of lucerne as they come from the bale (a bit expensive at present with the drought), and sprinkle with organic fertilizer. Next spread with about 150mm straw and finally add 75-100mm good compost/manure about 450mm width in growing rows. Seeds or seedlings can be grown directly into this. After the summer crops it all will have broken down somwhat so just add more compost ready for winter planting. It doesn't require any digging so is easy on the back. Planting a combination of vegetables, herbs and flowers, if liked, works very well. Good luck.
Elvie
Beaconsfield Vic
7th October 2007
ioian says...
I thought I would share with you all some pics of my raised garden beds since it is spring and the plants are starting to come alive! I used salvaged sleepers from an old cane train track. Concreted in the posts and then just slotted in the sleepers - cutting them to size of course because these sleepers were all slightly different lengths. Getting everything level was certainly a challenge - especially since the beds are located on a slope to one side.
I also installed an integrated watering system with a computer tap at the house to give them water every second morning. Seems to work well for a full-time worker who doesn't always get the time in the garden he wants :)
I thought I would share with you all some pics of my raised garden beds since it is spring and the plants are starting to come alive! I used salvaged sleepers from an old cane train track. Concreted in the posts and then just slotted in the sleepers - cutting them to size of course because these sleepers were all slightly different lengths. Getting everything level was certainly a challenge - especially since the beds are located on a slope to one side.
I also installed an integrated watering system with a computer tap at the house to give them water every second morning. Seems to work well for a full-time worker who doesn't always get the time in the garden he wants :)
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 |  Picture: 3 |
ioian
sunshine coast
24th October 2007
Rev says...
I just thought id mention that weve had great results this year using biochar
which is essentially fine charcoal made from any organic matter
manure is hard to get, even in the country - as in you either need a car and trailer and time, or you need many times more effort and a strong back to lug it home in the hot sun
so were using 50:50 char with compost
and add to this either organic or synthetic fertiliser as needed.
Charcoal is quite extraordinary in its long term stability and effects on plant and soil fertility. and in the immediate term it improves soil structure and water reteteion while not messing with the Carbon nitrogen ratio. so you can char sawdust and dig it in, whereas digging it in raw would ruin the soil for years.
i make the char in an ex oil drum or as earth covered charcoal mounds
if you are interested look into it. here are some leads. expect youll hear more anyway as the whole issue heats up due to biochar being a low cost long term carbon sink that improves the environmnet at the same time
http://www.css.cornell.edu/faculty/lehmann/biochar/Biochar_home.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biochar
http://sciam.com/article.cfm?articleid=5670236C-E7F2-99DF-3E2163B9FB144E40
I just thought id mention that weve had great results this year using biochar
which is essentially fine charcoal made from any organic matter
manure is hard to get, even in the country - as in you either need a car and trailer and time, or you need many times more effort and a strong back to lug it home in the hot sun
so were using 50:50 char with compost
and add to this either organic or synthetic fertiliser as needed.
Charcoal is quite extraordinary in its long term stability and effects on plant and soil fertility. and in the immediate term it improves soil structure and water reteteion while not messing with the Carbon nitrogen ratio. so you can char sawdust and dig it in, whereas digging it in raw would ruin the soil for years.
i make the char in an ex oil drum or as earth covered charcoal mounds
if you are interested look into it. here are some leads. expect youll hear more anyway as the whole issue heats up due to biochar being a low cost long term carbon sink that improves the environmnet at the same time
http://www.css.cornell.edu/faculty/lehmann/biochar/Biochar_home.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biochar
http://sciam.com/article.cfm?articleid=5670236C-E7F2-99DF-3E2163B9FB144E40
Rev
Tabulam
20th November 2007
Rev
Tabulam
20th November 2007
Sharyn says...
This is a query for Jan of Bundamba: as we live in the same local area I am wondering how your vegies cope in the summer heat. My husband and I want to start a garden but are clueless to how it will go. Everything I read says to plant just about everything at this time of the year but will it grow! Do you use shadecloth for sun protection or do the plants manage to withstand this dry, hot heat? We moved here a few years ago and I would really love some local advice. Cheers
This is a query for Jan of Bundamba: as we live in the same local area I am wondering how your vegies cope in the summer heat. My husband and I want to start a garden but are clueless to how it will go. Everything I read says to plant just about everything at this time of the year but will it grow! Do you use shadecloth for sun protection or do the plants manage to withstand this dry, hot heat? We moved here a few years ago and I would really love some local advice. Cheers
Sharyn
Riverview
27th January 2008
Jan says...
Hi Sharyn.
Iv'e given up with my veg garden purely because of the water shortage. I felt guilty each time I bucketed some water on the garden. I decided to put in a good variety of fruit trees. All doing quite well. Without having to water on a daily basis. When we can afford a water tank, then We will start up the veg again. My email is janek57@optusnet.com.au if you would like to contact me. Regards Jan.
Hi Sharyn.
Iv'e given up with my veg garden purely because of the water shortage. I felt guilty each time I bucketed some water on the garden. I decided to put in a good variety of fruit trees. All doing quite well. Without having to water on a daily basis. When we can afford a water tank, then We will start up the veg again. My email is janek57@optusnet.com.au if you would like to contact me. Regards Jan.
Jan
Bundamba Qld
28th January 2008
kim says...
Hi Sharyn,
I used to live in Redbank Plains but moved to Greenbank about 3 years ago. Have been growing amaranth,snake beans, bitter melon, angle luffa, buttercrunch lettuce, okra, kangkong, and some other asian vegies. If you require more info, my email is hakimchiew@yahoo.com.au
regards, Kim
Hi Sharyn,
I used to live in Redbank Plains but moved to Greenbank about 3 years ago. Have been growing amaranth,snake beans, bitter melon, angle luffa, buttercrunch lettuce, okra, kangkong, and some other asian vegies. If you require more info, my email is hakimchiew@yahoo.com.au
regards, Kim
kim
greenbank, Qld
28th January 2008
Sharyn
Riverview
29th January 2008
Paul says...
Well thanks you lot (said with a smile) after reading all the comments on treated pine for raised garden beds and having just paid fo 100 250x50 treated pine boards to make my new gardens I'm feeling rather sick now.
I think I will be double lining them with black plastic.
Thanks for the interesting reading.
Well thanks you lot (said with a smile) after reading all the comments on treated pine for raised garden beds and having just paid fo 100 250x50 treated pine boards to make my new gardens I'm feeling rather sick now.
I think I will be double lining them with black plastic.
Thanks for the interesting reading.
Paul
Sydney
1st February 2008
Jan
Bundamba Qld
2nd February 2008
John
SB South Australia
2nd February 2008
Jan says...
Hi John.
I was meaning to line only the insides of the sleepers and go just under the edge of the sleepers at the base. Not to cover the bottom of the garden as well. That would make a pond. The bottom to be kept just as bare earth. Plastic on the sides only, would slow down the evaporation from the surrounding air. And allow the moisture to go down deeper into mother earth.
Regards Jan.
Hi John.
I was meaning to line only the insides of the sleepers and go just under the edge of the sleepers at the base. Not to cover the bottom of the garden as well. That would make a pond. The bottom to be kept just as bare earth. Plastic on the sides only, would slow down the evaporation from the surrounding air. And allow the moisture to go down deeper into mother earth.
Regards Jan.
Jan
Bundamba Qld
2nd February 2008
Neil
Minden
24th March 2008
garry says...
I am looking at a small vegie/fruit tree/herbs garden bed 10m long by 1.3m wide & was going to use sleepers; as it's close to the house I am concerned about termites so was going to buy treated but now I am trying to work out how Matthew Gray (21/6/07 entry)built a wall with household bricks butted up & no mortar. Does anyone have any ideas?
I am looking at a small vegie/fruit tree/herbs garden bed 10m long by 1.3m wide & was going to use sleepers; as it's close to the house I am concerned about termites so was going to buy treated but now I am trying to work out how Matthew Gray (21/6/07 entry)built a wall with household bricks butted up & no mortar. Does anyone have any ideas?
garry
Palm Beach
7th April 2008
Kathryn says...
The best product is Ozlogs, it is made on the Gold Coast to look like old weathered sleepers but it is actually made of cement. It comes in various lengths and can also be used stacked for a retaining wall. It is a bit pricey but looks very realistic, lasts a long time and does a good job.
The best product is Ozlogs, it is made on the Gold Coast to look like old weathered sleepers but it is actually made of cement. It comes in various lengths and can also be used stacked for a retaining wall. It is a bit pricey but looks very realistic, lasts a long time and does a good job.
Kathryn
8th April 2008
Paul
Alstonville
8th April 2008
Dekka says...
Paul, you could line the inside of a treated-pine garden border with twenty layers of plastic but it still won't make it safe. The CCA chemicals leach out of the timber down into the soil and then the plant roots draw these up again. Consuming produce from a home vege/fruit garden that has this kind of treated-pine border is likely to have an accumulative effect internally and cause serious health issues.
Paul, you could line the inside of a treated-pine garden border with twenty layers of plastic but it still won't make it safe. The CCA chemicals leach out of the timber down into the soil and then the plant roots draw these up again. Consuming produce from a home vege/fruit garden that has this kind of treated-pine border is likely to have an accumulative effect internally and cause serious health issues.
Dekka
Newcastle
9th April 2008
Rose
Toongabbie, NSW
9th April 2008
Dekka says...
My understanding is that tyres are very stable chemically when in contact with soil. It is when they are ignited that they become a toxic problem. The only trouble with old tyres is once you've got them there very hard to get rid of because no-one wants them. My local tip will accept tyres if they have been sliced into quarters (a laborious task, especially on steel-belted) and then charges handsomely to do so.
My understanding is that tyres are very stable chemically when in contact with soil. It is when they are ignited that they become a toxic problem. The only trouble with old tyres is once you've got them there very hard to get rid of because no-one wants them. My local tip will accept tyres if they have been sliced into quarters (a laborious task, especially on steel-belted) and then charges handsomely to do so.
Dekka
Newcastle
9th April 2008
shaz says...
I agree with Dave. Why buy treated pine if we dont have too?? Why buy bleached toilet paper if we dont have to. Buy buy refined processed harmful foods if we dont have to?? It is up to each individual whether they buy into the harmful substances or not. There is a lot of stuff out there that we are able to buy because shops sell it, doesnt mean to say its right. ie windex is top on the list for toxic substances, it is allowed on the market and we still buy it!! Plastics in kids toys is harmful they still sell it. harmful carcinogens in things we buy that are known to cause cancer, they are still buyable from shops!!I dont personally. Id say to anyone dont be fooled, just because it's on the market doesnt mean it's safe for us.Thanks for the tip dave as I will be starting my own organic raised bed soon. I wont use treated pine. When we have no control over how the food we buy is treated I say.....
buyer beware. At least when we grow our own we know what is going into our food. Happy growing everyone!!
I agree with Dave. Why buy treated pine if we dont have too?? Why buy bleached toilet paper if we dont have to. Buy buy refined processed harmful foods if we dont have to?? It is up to each individual whether they buy into the harmful substances or not. There is a lot of stuff out there that we are able to buy because shops sell it, doesnt mean to say its right. ie windex is top on the list for toxic substances, it is allowed on the market and we still buy it!! Plastics in kids toys is harmful they still sell it. harmful carcinogens in things we buy that are known to cause cancer, they are still buyable from shops!!I dont personally. Id say to anyone dont be fooled, just because it's on the market doesnt mean it's safe for us.Thanks for the tip dave as I will be starting my own organic raised bed soon. I wont use treated pine. When we have no control over how the food we buy is treated I say.....
buyer beware. At least when we grow our own we know what is going into our food. Happy growing everyone!!
shaz
perth
19th April 2008
shaz says...
Also isnt that the main reason most of us do the home grown thing because we are dispondent about the quality/chemicals etc in the food we buy.
I know I am concerned about what I buy.
Now back to the new garden I am going to build.... When I first build the garden bed up can I do so over the grass and just put down layers of newspaper to kill it off, or do I have to dig it up??
can anyone pls advise, this is all very new to me. I am a working single mother and dont want back breaking digging-up-lawn-hardwork if I can get away with it.
Thankyou. I love this forum, it has been great reading.
Do any of you have your own worm compost/castings??? How does this work for you. I understand these little worms are an allie in any vegie garden.
Also isnt that the main reason most of us do the home grown thing because we are dispondent about the quality/chemicals etc in the food we buy.
I know I am concerned about what I buy.
Now back to the new garden I am going to build.... When I first build the garden bed up can I do so over the grass and just put down layers of newspaper to kill it off, or do I have to dig it up??
can anyone pls advise, this is all very new to me. I am a working single mother and dont want back breaking digging-up-lawn-hardwork if I can get away with it.
Thankyou. I love this forum, it has been great reading.
Do any of you have your own worm compost/castings??? How does this work for you. I understand these little worms are an allie in any vegie garden.
shaz
perth
19th April 2008
Dekka says...
Shaz, When you use the newspapers make sure you have good overlap to stop the grass working its way thru. On the subject of worm-farms I just try to keep the ones in my soil happy. Buying and introducing store-bought composting worms merely displaces the worms that are native to your own area, i.e, you create a feral worm problem.
Shaz, When you use the newspapers make sure you have good overlap to stop the grass working its way thru. On the subject of worm-farms I just try to keep the ones in my soil happy. Buying and introducing store-bought composting worms merely displaces the worms that are native to your own area, i.e, you create a feral worm problem.
Dekka
Newcastle
20th April 2008
Deb says...
Shaz, I too am in Perth. I put down a very thick layer of newspaper, well wetted and then placed an metal water tank over the top (with an old hose on it if the top is sharp) then place jarrah sawdust around the outside to deter snails. Fill it up with organic soil ("gods gift to gardeners" - see gardener direct online - they deliver too) and plants and you are all done. You can be harvesting small amounts in weeks. There are a few places in Perth you can get organic seedlings and seeds from too so you know they have been loved from the beginning ... :) Cheers
Shaz, I too am in Perth. I put down a very thick layer of newspaper, well wetted and then placed an metal water tank over the top (with an old hose on it if the top is sharp) then place jarrah sawdust around the outside to deter snails. Fill it up with organic soil ("gods gift to gardeners" - see gardener direct online - they deliver too) and plants and you are all done. You can be harvesting small amounts in weeks. There are a few places in Perth you can get organic seedlings and seeds from too so you know they have been loved from the beginning ... :) Cheers
Deb
NoR Perth
4th May 2008
Anonymous says...
"shaz says...
Also isnt that the main reason most of us do the home grown thing because we are dispondent about the quality/chemicals etc in the food we buy.
I know I am concerned about what I buy."
i do it for price and for flavour more than chemicals. its my impression that the chemical use in australia is sufficiently regulated that its a lesser concern
what concerns me more is watery flavourless old produce - i know this cant be good for me
"dekka says
Buying and introducing store-bought composting worms merely displaces the worms that are native to your own area, i.e, you create a feral worm problem. "
i dont think is true. i have 5 species ive counted in my garden and they all co-exist in the same matrix, but occupying and using different parts
Compost worms - reds and tigers live in the mulch, while the huge native ones go deep in the mineral soil
and the Blue worms live only near the surface
native worms are better adapted to forests and pastures, than the massively enriched and irrigated soils of a vegetable garden
"shaz says...
Also isnt that the main reason most of us do the home grown thing because we are dispondent about the quality/chemicals etc in the food we buy.
I know I am concerned about what I buy."
i do it for price and for flavour more than chemicals. its my impression that the chemical use in australia is sufficiently regulated that its a lesser concern
what concerns me more is watery flavourless old produce - i know this cant be good for me
"dekka says
Buying and introducing store-bought composting worms merely displaces the worms that are native to your own area, i.e, you create a feral worm problem. "
i dont think is true. i have 5 species ive counted in my garden and they all co-exist in the same matrix, but occupying and using different parts
Compost worms - reds and tigers live in the mulch, while the huge native ones go deep in the mineral soil
and the Blue worms live only near the surface
native worms are better adapted to forests and pastures, than the massively enriched and irrigated soils of a vegetable garden
Anonymous
5th May 2008
Julie says...
Some friends of mine ran a small organic market garden some years ago. They used concrete slabs (2' x 2', don't know the metric equivalent) on edge for their veggie beds.
They are large enough to put almost halfway into the ground and still be very stable. Or, don't bother digging them in, just stand on edge and hold in place with strong wire wrapped around.
You can sometimes get these cheaply when people recycle them. Also, try a 'wanted' ad in your local paper.
I also came across a picture of beds made of huge irrigation pipe, cut in half legthways.A company was giving it away (in Perth) but can't remember who. I will put the info out there if I remember or come across it again.
Some friends of mine ran a small organic market garden some years ago. They used concrete slabs (2' x 2', don't know the metric equivalent) on edge for their veggie beds.
They are large enough to put almost halfway into the ground and still be very stable. Or, don't bother digging them in, just stand on edge and hold in place with strong wire wrapped around.
You can sometimes get these cheaply when people recycle them. Also, try a 'wanted' ad in your local paper.
I also came across a picture of beds made of huge irrigation pipe, cut in half legthways.A company was giving it away (in Perth) but can't remember who. I will put the info out there if I remember or come across it again.
Julie
Roleystone
5th May 2008
tannille king
queensland (tully)
7th May 2008
Deb says...
Hi Tannille
It's sad you have never made a garden, they are great fun and you get so much out of them! What exactly is your assignment about; is it about making a garden, maintaining a garden, gardening in your state or something else? Do you have particular questions you would like to ask people or perhaps some general questions? You do need to remember what you may hear on here will be people's opinions and thoughts and you may need some facts that you can back up. Cheers
Hi Tannille
It's sad you have never made a garden, they are great fun and you get so much out of them! What exactly is your assignment about; is it about making a garden, maintaining a garden, gardening in your state or something else? Do you have particular questions you would like to ask people or perhaps some general questions? You do need to remember what you may hear on here will be people's opinions and thoughts and you may need some facts that you can back up. Cheers
Deb
NoR Perth
12th May 2008
Yuri says...
Dekka said "Buying and introducing store-bought composting worms merely displaces the worms that are native to your own area, i.e, you create a feral worm problem.". Sorry Dekka but this is totally wrong. The imported worms only survive in a rich, wet environment such as in a worm farm. They don't survive in the environment of our natives which is much too harsh but in which our natives thrive. That is also the reason our natives aren't used in the worm farms; it's too wet and rich for them.
To everybody that has contributed to this forum discussion, many many thanks. It's been quite amazing to see the wide variety of responses and ideas. I had no idea of what I was starting when I asked the fairly simple original question.
BTW, I have decided to use untreated hardwood half sleepers bolted together at the corners to posts that will serve as corner supports as well. I will post photos once the project has been completed. But don't hold your breath waiting; it might be a while before it is done.
Once again, thank you one and all.
Yuri.
Dekka said "Buying and introducing store-bought composting worms merely displaces the worms that are native to your own area, i.e, you create a feral worm problem.". Sorry Dekka but this is totally wrong. The imported worms only survive in a rich, wet environment such as in a worm farm. They don't survive in the environment of our natives which is much too harsh but in which our natives thrive. That is also the reason our natives aren't used in the worm farms; it's too wet and rich for them.
To everybody that has contributed to this forum discussion, many many thanks. It's been quite amazing to see the wide variety of responses and ideas. I had no idea of what I was starting when I asked the fairly simple original question.
BTW, I have decided to use untreated hardwood half sleepers bolted together at the corners to posts that will serve as corner supports as well. I will post photos once the project has been completed. But don't hold your breath waiting; it might be a while before it is done.
Once again, thank you one and all.
Yuri.
Yuri
Gold Coast, QLD
12th May 2008
Dekka says...
Dear Yuri,
"Totally Wrong"? Gee, and here was I thinking the folks at the CSIRO knew what they were on about where they said, "Native earthworm species are often eradicated from natural areas as people clear native vegetation and introduced species become more dominant in these disturbed habitats. Introduced earthworms are most common in disturbed environments such as suburban gardens and farmland paddocks." (See CSIRO - Annelida: worms and leeches)
FYI: Tasmania, which has suffered less human impact than the mainland, already has 30 naturalised/introduced species of Annelida. Also, Yuri, are you seriously suggesting that there are no rich, wet environments in Australia? You need to get out more.
Dear Yuri,
"Totally Wrong"? Gee, and here was I thinking the folks at the CSIRO knew what they were on about where they said, "Native earthworm species are often eradicated from natural areas as people clear native vegetation and introduced species become more dominant in these disturbed habitats. Introduced earthworms are most common in disturbed environments such as suburban gardens and farmland paddocks." (See CSIRO - Annelida: worms and leeches)
FYI: Tasmania, which has suffered less human impact than the mainland, already has 30 naturalised/introduced species of Annelida. Also, Yuri, are you seriously suggesting that there are no rich, wet environments in Australia? You need to get out more.
Dekka
Newcastle
12th May 2008
Scott says...
This site has been great. We have built our new home and tried to make it as eco friendly as our budget would allow when it comes to hooking rain water to the house and gardin and various other things. We also have two compost bins and at the moment and nothing to use it on. So I was just looking around the net to see how to build a raised vegie patch. I was going to head down the treated pine option, but you have knocked that on the head so im back to redgum sleepers. Bit more pricey but safer. Our patch wont be all that big only 4mx1m but it should be enough for our family.
Thanks for the advice especially the cardboard as the base as we have plenty of empty moving boxes.
Cheers
Scott
This site has been great. We have built our new home and tried to make it as eco friendly as our budget would allow when it comes to hooking rain water to the house and gardin and various other things. We also have two compost bins and at the moment and nothing to use it on. So I was just looking around the net to see how to build a raised vegie patch. I was going to head down the treated pine option, but you have knocked that on the head so im back to redgum sleepers. Bit more pricey but safer. Our patch wont be all that big only 4mx1m but it should be enough for our family.
Thanks for the advice especially the cardboard as the base as we have plenty of empty moving boxes.
Cheers
Scott
Scott
Adelaide (SA)
6th June 2008
Glory says...
Hi guys, anyone knows, what is the name of this veggie. Its leaves like an opened cabbage leaves. But the leaves are so curly and stems are so green. One of my friend said it has lots of nutrients. I stir fry the leaves, it is so tasty. Thanks Glory
Hi guys, anyone knows, what is the name of this veggie. Its leaves like an opened cabbage leaves. But the leaves are so curly and stems are so green. One of my friend said it has lots of nutrients. I stir fry the leaves, it is so tasty. Thanks Glory
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 | |
Glory
Melbourne
16th June 2008
Anonymous says...
I believe it may be a greek mountain lettuce that we boil or steam then add some olive oil salt peper and lemon juice. If yuou drink a cup of this mineral juice after cooking, this cleans out you kidneys and liver of bad things. Works with spinch to. Sorry mums not here to get the name of it.
I believe it may be a greek mountain lettuce that we boil or steam then add some olive oil salt peper and lemon juice. If yuou drink a cup of this mineral juice after cooking, this cleans out you kidneys and liver of bad things. Works with spinch to. Sorry mums not here to get the name of it.
Anonymous
16th June 2008
Paul says...
Have really enjoyed reading everyone's posts, particularly about treated pine. We have just bought a house and with it came multiple treated pine sleepers which the previous owners had left for us. This was not the traditional green treated pine but was pine covered with a black substance, only on the outside. Does anyone know if this contains different (more garden friendly??) chemicals than the traditional treated pine. I was thinking about covering them with heavy-duty plastic, joining them together and then using them as a raised edge for a vegie patch. Any thoughts?
Have really enjoyed reading everyone's posts, particularly about treated pine. We have just bought a house and with it came multiple treated pine sleepers which the previous owners had left for us. This was not the traditional green treated pine but was pine covered with a black substance, only on the outside. Does anyone know if this contains different (more garden friendly??) chemicals than the traditional treated pine. I was thinking about covering them with heavy-duty plastic, joining them together and then using them as a raised edge for a vegie patch. Any thoughts?
Paul
Gawler
23rd June 2008
Steve
Northcoast
23rd June 2008
Dekka says...
Steve,
Worms are the most abundant animals on the planet and their mere presence wouldn't necessarily indicate that they they are uncontaminated by polluted soil. Just as the existence of fish can't be conclusive proof that a body of water isn't polluted or that the presence of birds means the air is clean. The point is:- Why use CCA treated Pine in food gardens when there are heaps of alternatives?
Steve,
Worms are the most abundant animals on the planet and their mere presence wouldn't necessarily indicate that they they are uncontaminated by polluted soil. Just as the existence of fish can't be conclusive proof that a body of water isn't polluted or that the presence of birds means the air is clean. The point is:- Why use CCA treated Pine in food gardens when there are heaps of alternatives?
Dekka
Newcastle
23rd June 2008
Glory
Melbourne
25th June 2008
justjuice says...
Kath: Great retaining wall. How do you make it? Do you need to cement the stones together? I'm a real newbie when it comes to landscaping, but I can't afford a landscaper so would like to try myself. Thanks!
Glory: Can you post some larger pictures - it's quite hard to see. Thanks.
Kath: Great retaining wall. How do you make it? Do you need to cement the stones together? I'm a real newbie when it comes to landscaping, but I can't afford a landscaper so would like to try myself. Thanks!
Glory: Can you post some larger pictures - it's quite hard to see. Thanks.
justjuice
Melbourne
25th June 2008
Glory
Melbourne
26th June 2008
Tran says...
Hi Glory,
I have a catalogue from EDEN SEEDS. Checked the picture and yours and I am quite certain it is CHOU MOELLIER (Brassica oleracea var. acephala)
http://www.edenseeds.com.au/content/seeditem.asp?id=187
Please note the website display 2 items the picture is for KALE. They do not post this vegie but in my catalogue I have a picture of it. it looks almost identical to the one in your picture.
Good luck.
Tran
Hi Glory,
I have a catalogue from EDEN SEEDS. Checked the picture and yours and I am quite certain it is CHOU MOELLIER (Brassica oleracea var. acephala)
http://www.edenseeds.com.au/content/seeditem.asp?id=187
Please note the website display 2 items the picture is for KALE. They do not post this vegie but in my catalogue I have a picture of it. it looks almost identical to the one in your picture.
Good luck.
Tran
Tran
Vic
26th June 2008
Glory
Melbourne
26th June 2008
B says...
i have made my veggie patch out of the new 'lite wall' blocks that don't require any mortor - they just lock in together and are filled with sand for stability. heres some pictures. just click on them to see them. You can easily raise the height by adding another layer on top. Too easy!
i have made my veggie patch out of the new 'lite wall' blocks that don't require any mortor - they just lock in together and are filled with sand for stability. heres some pictures. just click on them to see them. You can easily raise the height by adding another layer on top. Too easy!
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 | |
B
Perth
26th June 2008
justjuice
Melbourne
26th June 2008
B says...
Hi Justjuice. thanks for your feedback. You can bury the bottom layer which you would do if you were going to build a higher wall. The next layer also sort of locks into the layer underneath for stability too. they really are a great way to build - you don't need any experience at all. Just a weekend!
Hi Justjuice. thanks for your feedback. You can bury the bottom layer which you would do if you were going to build a higher wall. The next layer also sort of locks into the layer underneath for stability too. they really are a great way to build - you don't need any experience at all. Just a weekend!
B
Perth
27th June 2008
lynne
melb
27th June 2008
Matt says...
All this talk about treated versus untreated sleepers for my raised garden bed has confused me alot. The timber yard said there was no problem using treated (as they would) . Even told me arsenic wasn't used anymore (despite it still being called CCA. I've been told to steer clear of untreated woods , hard or otherwise unless I want my house infested with the termites that WILL come. The concrete sleepers are 50 bucks a pop and weigh 40 kgs each, not friendly at all. I'd managed to convince myself to use treated wood and plastic but now even the plastic doesnt help. Does anybody know where I can get a diffinitive answer regarding using treated wood, or the likelihood of termites turning my house into their own vege garden if I go untreated, even those which are apparently "termite resistent".
All this talk about treated versus untreated sleepers for my raised garden bed has confused me alot. The timber yard said there was no problem using treated (as they would) . Even told me arsenic wasn't used anymore (despite it still being called CCA. I've been told to steer clear of untreated woods , hard or otherwise unless I want my house infested with the termites that WILL come. The concrete sleepers are 50 bucks a pop and weigh 40 kgs each, not friendly at all. I'd managed to convince myself to use treated wood and plastic but now even the plastic doesnt help. Does anybody know where I can get a diffinitive answer regarding using treated wood, or the likelihood of termites turning my house into their own vege garden if I go untreated, even those which are apparently "termite resistent".
Matt
Coomera
5th July 2008
Wayne
Mackay
5th July 2008
Scott G says...
Hi Matt
I am in Nerang. My neighbor’s house had termites from having mulch up to a weep-hole in the wall.
My house had termites (before I bought it) due to moisture and mulch allowing termites access to one of the weep holes. They ate a small part of one wall that was easily fixed.
I added a pergola and a concrete slab and these now keep that dark corner of my house dry. I have termites in my last old fence. I have termites under logs and almost any bit of wood left lying out in my garden. I have lots of old railway sleepers that are vegie garden retaining walls. The termites have nibbled on them but 5 years later they are still holding strong.
I was told that termites are just everywhere and to just get on and live with them. I was told that as long as the house is sufficiently protected there is no problem. This seems to work for me. I use no chemicals. I make sure that mulch doesnt get to touch my house walls by surrounding the house with stone. On one side of my house there is a pebble path. On another I have a concrete slab and on the remaining 2 sides I have laid down a row of small pavers (200mm x 200mm size pavers).
So now here I am 5 years later and no problems. I wonder how much of the worry of termite invasion is created by the hype of the pest extermination people.
Hi Matt
I am in Nerang. My neighbor’s house had termites from having mulch up to a weep-hole in the wall.
My house had termites (before I bought it) due to moisture and mulch allowing termites access to one of the weep holes. They ate a small part of one wall that was easily fixed.
I added a pergola and a concrete slab and these now keep that dark corner of my house dry. I have termites in my last old fence. I have termites under logs and almost any bit of wood left lying out in my garden. I have lots of old railway sleepers that are vegie garden retaining walls. The termites have nibbled on them but 5 years later they are still holding strong.
I was told that termites are just everywhere and to just get on and live with them. I was told that as long as the house is sufficiently protected there is no problem. This seems to work for me. I use no chemicals. I make sure that mulch doesnt get to touch my house walls by surrounding the house with stone. On one side of my house there is a pebble path. On another I have a concrete slab and on the remaining 2 sides I have laid down a row of small pavers (200mm x 200mm size pavers).
So now here I am 5 years later and no problems. I wonder how much of the worry of termite invasion is created by the hype of the pest extermination people.
Scott G
The Gold Coast
5th July 2008
Robyn says...
I would agree that bricks are the way to go you do not know what treatments may have been applied to old railway sleepers creosote would be a big possibility. You can get bricks from second hand building centres and often people sell off leftover bricks from new houses.
I have also used old roofing tiles for edging.
Old roofing iron is another option but would need to cap the top with timber so you don't cut yourself on the sharp edge.
I would not use treated pine.
You can always mound up your soil and use a spade to cut an edge to keep the grass out.
I would agree that bricks are the way to go you do not know what treatments may have been applied to old railway sleepers creosote would be a big possibility. You can get bricks from second hand building centres and often people sell off leftover bricks from new houses.
I have also used old roofing tiles for edging.
Old roofing iron is another option but would need to cap the top with timber so you don't cut yourself on the sharp edge.
I would not use treated pine.
You can always mound up your soil and use a spade to cut an edge to keep the grass out.
Robyn
Sydney
6th July 2008
Carolyn says...
I am wanting to turn an old pond into a veggie patch. It has been painted with grey pond paint. I realise I'd need to drill holes in it for drainage, but can anyone else think of any potiental problems? My concern is that the paint or the concrete may contaminate the soil. Is anyone in the the know about soil contamination?
I am wanting to turn an old pond into a veggie patch. It has been painted with grey pond paint. I realise I'd need to drill holes in it for drainage, but can anyone else think of any potiental problems? My concern is that the paint or the concrete may contaminate the soil. Is anyone in the the know about soil contamination?
Carolyn
brisbane
18th July 2008
Dekka
Newcastle
19th July 2008
HP says...
We are looking to build some raised vege garden beds within the next few weeks so this forum has been really interesting for us.
We are still debating the pros and cons of each building product and were worried that if we chose to use bricks they may transfer too much heat into the soil and make it dry out too much. Does anyone have any views on this??
One other note - Dekka, your advice would be much easier to take if it was put forward as a useful opinion or suggestion rather than a correction to everyone else's equally valuable posts.
We are looking to build some raised vege garden beds within the next few weeks so this forum has been really interesting for us.
We are still debating the pros and cons of each building product and were worried that if we chose to use bricks they may transfer too much heat into the soil and make it dry out too much. Does anyone have any views on this??
One other note - Dekka, your advice would be much easier to take if it was put forward as a useful opinion or suggestion rather than a correction to everyone else's equally valuable posts.
HP
Canberra
20th July 2008
Dekka says...
To HP of Canberra,
I am somewhat baffled by your decision to single me out among the hundreds of contributors to this forum. In fact, the only time I have corrected someone was when Yuri said I was "...totally wrong" about introduced worms and I merely offered him factual evidence to support my comment. If you don't like my comments about worm farms that's OK but, fair go...'EVERYONE else'?... Are you fairdinkum?!! All I have done is answer questions honestly and maybe try to prevent people from feeding their families Copper Chromium Arsenate.
I suppose I should remember the adage that "ignorance is bliss" and promise never to encroach upon your bliss again. Happy gardening.
To HP of Canberra,
I am somewhat baffled by your decision to single me out among the hundreds of contributors to this forum. In fact, the only time I have corrected someone was when Yuri said I was "...totally wrong" about introduced worms and I merely offered him factual evidence to support my comment. If you don't like my comments about worm farms that's OK but, fair go...'EVERYONE else'?... Are you fairdinkum?!! All I have done is answer questions honestly and maybe try to prevent people from feeding their families Copper Chromium Arsenate.
I suppose I should remember the adage that "ignorance is bliss" and promise never to encroach upon your bliss again. Happy gardening.
Dekka
Newcastle
21st July 2008
Glory
Melbourne
21st July 2008
HP says...
Apologies Dekka, I shouldn't have used such a broad generalisation -not 'everyone else', just enough to catch my attention. I have no intentions of using anything treated so was interested in your responses there just found them a bit abrupt. Anyways, was just a bit of feedback.
I am still very interested in your valuable answer to the question in my post if you have any thoughts.
Apologies Dekka, I shouldn't have used such a broad generalisation -not 'everyone else', just enough to catch my attention. I have no intentions of using anything treated so was interested in your responses there just found them a bit abrupt. Anyways, was just a bit of feedback.
I am still very interested in your valuable answer to the question in my post if you have any thoughts.
HP
Canberra
21st July 2008
Dekka says...
No worries, HP.
Regarding your bricks question, there are a lot of variables.
Yes, brick, concrete and stone will warm up in the sunshine but this can be a good thing depending on what you are growing. Generally, a warm root zone will stimulate root development and subsequent plant growth unless it is a plant that enjoys very cool roots like Clematis for example.
As you live in Canberra, the heat-sync properties of brick may help keep your plants warm through cold winter nights as long as the bricks are able to warm up through the day. If this doesn't happen they can actually act as a cold sync and keep the soil cooler.
Raking back mulch on any sunny winter days will help with soil warmth and replacing mulch in the afternoon will keep heat in.
As far as drying out goes, thick mulch will easily counter any effect that warm masonry will have on the soil moisture.
One slight risk with bricks in a cold area can be that, due to their porosity, water can enter the air spaces within the bricks and then freeze. When the water freezes it expands and causes minute fractures in the bricks' structure and they can become crumbly... but for a garden bed it may not matter. Local stone is best but bricks are OK.
PS. Hope that's a little less abrupt.
No worries, HP.
Regarding your bricks question, there are a lot of variables.
Yes, brick, concrete and stone will warm up in the sunshine but this can be a good thing depending on what you are growing. Generally, a warm root zone will stimulate root development and subsequent plant growth unless it is a plant that enjoys very cool roots like Clematis for example.
As you live in Canberra, the heat-sync properties of brick may help keep your plants warm through cold winter nights as long as the bricks are able to warm up through the day. If this doesn't happen they can actually act as a cold sync and keep the soil cooler.
Raking back mulch on any sunny winter days will help with soil warmth and replacing mulch in the afternoon will keep heat in.
As far as drying out goes, thick mulch will easily counter any effect that warm masonry will have on the soil moisture.
One slight risk with bricks in a cold area can be that, due to their porosity, water can enter the air spaces within the bricks and then freeze. When the water freezes it expands and causes minute fractures in the bricks' structure and they can become crumbly... but for a garden bed it may not matter. Local stone is best but bricks are OK.
PS. Hope that's a little less abrupt.
Dekka
Newcastle
22nd July 2008
Diny says...
To people that want to start a no-dig garden a la Esther Dean,I hope you all realise that newspaper is made of wood. To termites this is fast food and they love it!I had a vegetables bed with newspaper as a base and when I had to move it, there were thousands of termites living there and most of the paper was eaten. I had chooks at the time and threw them in their pen, they loved that. But I agree with Scott that termites are everywhere and I don't worry about them.
To people that want to start a no-dig garden a la Esther Dean,I hope you all realise that newspaper is made of wood. To termites this is fast food and they love it!I had a vegetables bed with newspaper as a base and when I had to move it, there were thousands of termites living there and most of the paper was eaten. I had chooks at the time and threw them in their pen, they loved that. But I agree with Scott that termites are everywhere and I don't worry about them.
Diny
Bundaberg
24th July 2008
Julie
Roleystone
28th July 2008
HP says...
Thanks for your generous post Dekka, apologies for the delay in replying.
It's a tough one, the heat retaining properties would be good here in the cold. We get lots of beautiful sunny days during winter but I think what you say about the potential for it to do the same with the cold could be a problem. My partner is also feeling than enthusiastic about the work involved in my grand brick plans!
We went on a torturous sleeper hunt on the weekend (my poor 4yo!). It is extraordinary how hard it is to find untreated options. We found some untreated hardwood sleepers but they were in poor condition and we were concerned about where they may have been sourced from.
After all that and seeing your advice, I think we will go for railway sleepers. Recycled, hopefully treated long enough ago to be benign now (let me know if i'm off there) and relatively easy to assemble.
So the work begins on the weekend...
Thanks for your generous post Dekka, apologies for the delay in replying.
It's a tough one, the heat retaining properties would be good here in the cold. We get lots of beautiful sunny days during winter but I think what you say about the potential for it to do the same with the cold could be a problem. My partner is also feeling than enthusiastic about the work involved in my grand brick plans!
We went on a torturous sleeper hunt on the weekend (my poor 4yo!). It is extraordinary how hard it is to find untreated options. We found some untreated hardwood sleepers but they were in poor condition and we were concerned about where they may have been sourced from.
After all that and seeing your advice, I think we will go for railway sleepers. Recycled, hopefully treated long enough ago to be benign now (let me know if i'm off there) and relatively easy to assemble.
So the work begins on the weekend...
HP
Canberra
29th July 2008
Glory
Melbourne
31st July 2008
Scott says...
Hi HP,
I have just finished building my raised garden beds out of New redwood sleepers. They are 2000x200x75 and cost me $25 each. Don’t know about your area but every landscaping supplier has them in Adelaide. connected them with long, fat coach screws after pre drilling and counter sinking to make sure enough of the screw went through. I made 4 rectangles (2000x1000x200), put 2 on top of each other and the weight + filling holds them in place.
Cheers
Scott
Hi HP,
I have just finished building my raised garden beds out of New redwood sleepers. They are 2000x200x75 and cost me $25 each. Don’t know about your area but every landscaping supplier has them in Adelaide. connected them with long, fat coach screws after pre drilling and counter sinking to make sure enough of the screw went through. I made 4 rectangles (2000x1000x200), put 2 on top of each other and the weight + filling holds them in place.
Cheers
Scott
Scott
Adelaide (SA)
7th August 2008
Em says...
Hi everyone,
Does anyone have any experience with the galvanised raised veggie garden beds made by the rainwater tank people? I'm keen to get one that sits 800mm high (to save my back)but have no idea how long they would last? Any info would be appreciated. They were on Domestic Blitz a couple of weeks ago. http://www.tankworx.com.au/
thanks heaps
Em
Hi everyone,
Does anyone have any experience with the galvanised raised veggie garden beds made by the rainwater tank people? I'm keen to get one that sits 800mm high (to save my back)but have no idea how long they would last? Any info would be appreciated. They were on Domestic Blitz a couple of weeks ago. http://www.tankworx.com.au/
thanks heaps
Em
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Em
Hervey Bay Qld
9th August 2008
Deb says...
Hi Em, I have one but it is only about 2 years old. I got one for the same reason as you - my back! Mine is only 400 and I find that is high enough. I shudder to think how much it would cost to fill it if it was larger. Also I think most of your nutrients would end up in the lower zone. I covered my ground thick with newspaper and stood the tank on that (none going into the ground) and then filled it. It is open at the bottom so shouldnt collect water at all and therefore should last for sometime. Around the tank on the rest of the newspaper i put jarrah sawdust. the snails dont like sawdust and i never saw one in my garden until this winter! but the sawdust does need a top up now as even a few weeds are getting through. I love the tanks and recommend them highly. I know others who have actually got second hand tanks with holes in them and just cover those areas from the inside, I think they would last for a few decades if you care for them. Happy tanking! Deb
Hi Em, I have one but it is only about 2 years old. I got one for the same reason as you - my back! Mine is only 400 and I find that is high enough. I shudder to think how much it would cost to fill it if it was larger. Also I think most of your nutrients would end up in the lower zone. I covered my ground thick with newspaper and stood the tank on that (none going into the ground) and then filled it. It is open at the bottom so shouldnt collect water at all and therefore should last for sometime. Around the tank on the rest of the newspaper i put jarrah sawdust. the snails dont like sawdust and i never saw one in my garden until this winter! but the sawdust does need a top up now as even a few weeds are getting through. I love the tanks and recommend them highly. I know others who have actually got second hand tanks with holes in them and just cover those areas from the inside, I think they would last for a few decades if you care for them. Happy tanking! Deb
Deb
NoR Perth
10th August 2008
Julie says...
Glory
By all means, go ahead, but don't expect much success! Don't sow all your seeds, so you have some left for the right season - next autumn.
Just sow into rich soil, improved with manure and compost. Don't sow too deep, place them about 20cms apart and put in a sunny spot. I always start my seedlings off in small pots or seed trays. That way I don't have any gaps.
Good luck
Julie
Glory
By all means, go ahead, but don't expect much success! Don't sow all your seeds, so you have some left for the right season - next autumn.
Just sow into rich soil, improved with manure and compost. Don't sow too deep, place them about 20cms apart and put in a sunny spot. I always start my seedlings off in small pots or seed trays. That way I don't have any gaps.
Good luck
Julie
Julie
Roleystone
10th August 2008
HP says...
Thanks Em and Deb for your advice on the galvanised veggie beds. We took one look at your posts and started the search! Thankfully we had decided to work on our clay soil for a while and think about the advice we had been lucky to receive before we built our beds.
We were not able to get them from Tankworx as they have quite a limited delivery area. We ended up ordering four 2.2m x 1.2m beds through a company called Birdies Garden Products www.birdiesgardenproducts.com.au, they were really reasonably priced as was the delivery from SE QLD to Canberra ($107!!) and so far, really lovely customer service.
They should arrive in the next few weeks. We can't wait to fill three of them and give no-dig potatoes a go in the fourth.
Thanks Em and Deb for your advice on the galvanised veggie beds. We took one look at your posts and started the search! Thankfully we had decided to work on our clay soil for a while and think about the advice we had been lucky to receive before we built our beds.
We were not able to get them from Tankworx as they have quite a limited delivery area. We ended up ordering four 2.2m x 1.2m beds through a company called Birdies Garden Products www.birdiesgardenproducts.com.au, they were really reasonably priced as was the delivery from SE QLD to Canberra ($107!!) and so far, really lovely customer service.
They should arrive in the next few weeks. We can't wait to fill three of them and give no-dig potatoes a go in the fourth.
HP
Canberra
12th August 2008
PK
Adelaide
14th August 2008
Anonymous
14th August 2008
Em
Hervey Bay Qld
15th August 2008
Julie
Roleystone
15th August 2008
HP says...
Julie
I found a Perth supplier in my hunt earlier in the week. It was www.gardenersdirect.com.au and their products seemed really good and reasonably priced. I was disappointed they were so far away!
I liked that the beds were 'squarish' at the ends, it seemed a better use of space than the rounder ones.
Hope this helps
Julie
I found a Perth supplier in my hunt earlier in the week. It was www.gardenersdirect.com.au and their products seemed really good and reasonably priced. I was disappointed they were so far away!
I liked that the beds were 'squarish' at the ends, it seemed a better use of space than the rounder ones.
Hope this helps
HP
Canberra
15th August 2008
Deb says...
I have to say that gardeners direct have been very good in my experience. i havent used their tanks yet (but the varying sizes they have will make it easier to fit them into my small courtyard garden), so it wont be long before i extend from 'god's gift to gardeners' and the eco soil wetter to the tanks
I have to say that gardeners direct have been very good in my experience. i havent used their tanks yet (but the varying sizes they have will make it easier to fit them into my small courtyard garden), so it wont be long before i extend from 'god's gift to gardeners' and the eco soil wetter to the tanks
Deb
NoR Perth
16th August 2008
John
Perth
21st August 2008
HP
Canberra
22nd August 2008
Jo says...
HP- I thought that I could work on the soil in my garden until I was happy with it, but Canberra's clays are able to daunt the hardiest gardener!
We've moved into a house that's had wood chips through the garden for 30 years, and until we had some rain, it was like trying to break rock.
Everyone's been telling me to put in raised beds, but I was too stubborn to listen. Until now...
HP- I thought that I could work on the soil in my garden until I was happy with it, but Canberra's clays are able to daunt the hardiest gardener!
We've moved into a house that's had wood chips through the garden for 30 years, and until we had some rain, it was like trying to break rock.
Everyone's been telling me to put in raised beds, but I was too stubborn to listen. Until now...
Jo
Canberra
25th August 2008
HP says...
Jo, I found a galvanised garden bed supplier in Canberra after I had ordered them from afar. The company is called Adapt2 and can be found in Mitchell or Pialligo or at www.adapt2eco.com.au
We went to their Mitchell store on the weekend to look at all sorts of eco products and found them really helpful and the prices of the garden beds were similar to what we've ordered from SE QLD.
Jo, I found a galvanised garden bed supplier in Canberra after I had ordered them from afar. The company is called Adapt2 and can be found in Mitchell or Pialligo or at www.adapt2eco.com.au
We went to their Mitchell store on the weekend to look at all sorts of eco products and found them really helpful and the prices of the garden beds were similar to what we've ordered from SE QLD.
HP
Canberra
26th August 2008
Leah says...
Hi, I have been looking at the corugated beds in colourbond and here is what Bluescope steel says...
# Can I use COLORBOND® steel as a retaining wall, or garden bed?
* In Soil
The construction of gardens adjacent to buildings or fencing by placing soil directly against ZINCALUME® steel or COLORBOND® steel sheeting is strongly discouraged as corrosion of the sheeting will rapidly occur about the area covered with soil.
Moisture or moisture retaining materials should not be permitted to remain in intimate contact with ZINCALUME® steel, COLORBOND® steel or galvanized steel. Such contact will ultimately result in corrosion of the material.
The major factors influencing corrosion are the continual retention of moisture and the differential concentration of oxygen at the material surface. Gutters are frequent victims, with insufficient fall leading to ponding of water.
The accumulation of debris (leaf matter, dirt etc) which results in continual immersion, is the most common reason for unsatisfactory performance of guttering.
In typical garden applications such as fence panels, garden sheds and walling the build up of grass cuttings, leaves, soil from gardens, mulch, compost, sand and ashes must be avoided.
For more information, please Download Corrosion Technical Bulletin CTB 16 - Immersion.
So i have decided to go the old fashion way of redgum sleepers. THere is a place in Brunswick, Vic that you can get 50 for $350 so i will be able to make about 6 good sized beds. But it will not be as easy as getting something premade.
Hi, I have been looking at the corugated beds in colourbond and here is what Bluescope steel says...
# Can I use COLORBOND® steel as a retaining wall, or garden bed?
* In Soil
The construction of gardens adjacent to buildings or fencing by placing soil directly against ZINCALUME® steel or COLORBOND® steel sheeting is strongly discouraged as corrosion of the sheeting will rapidly occur about the area covered with soil.
Moisture or moisture retaining materials should not be permitted to remain in intimate contact with ZINCALUME® steel, COLORBOND® steel or galvanized steel. Such contact will ultimately result in corrosion of the material.
The major factors influencing corrosion are the continual retention of moisture and the differential concentration of oxygen at the material surface. Gutters are frequent victims, with insufficient fall leading to ponding of water.
The accumulation of debris (leaf matter, dirt etc) which results in continual immersion, is the most common reason for unsatisfactory performance of guttering.
In typical garden applications such as fence panels, garden sheds and walling the build up of grass cuttings, leaves, soil from gardens, mulch, compost, sand and ashes must be avoided.
For more information, please Download Corrosion Technical Bulletin CTB 16 - Immersion.
So i have decided to go the old fashion way of redgum sleepers. THere is a place in Brunswick, Vic that you can get 50 for $350 so i will be able to make about 6 good sized beds. But it will not be as easy as getting something premade.
Leah
28th August 2008