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| About the Author paula4 victoria 28th December 2010 8:48pm #UserID: 4706 Posts: 1 View All paula4's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 29th December 2010 9:33am #UserID: 1947 Posts: 1722 View All Brendan's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 31st December 2010 8:52am | |||||||
| About the Author Hayden 1st January 2011 5:36pm #UserID: 4312 Posts: 43 View All Hayden's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 2nd January 2011 8:28am #UserID: 1947 Posts: 1722 View All Brendan's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... I decided to have a go making that hydroponic set-up for strawberries (ABC gardening Aust) It was incredibly easy! I decided to use a small pond pump instead of the manual bucket method (I don't trust myself to be diligent enuf' to change the buckets over - but have two made up for the days I am home, to save power) - then I just stuffed the pipe with shade cloth for anchorage of the roots. EDIT: it is half full of perlite (pain in the butt that stuff! grr) and each hole stuffed with a square of shade cloth - I figure it will be easier to remove the plants this way - but it also helps to keep the crown out of the water..) I could probably run around 2-4 of the pipes in sequence maybe? - the pump pretty fiesty. Shame it's not a solar one though - maybe another day... Could be a great way to grow water chestnuts - I'd just get the pipe cut in half length ways like an open drain? I have saved some spots for Israeli watercress and lettuce. I will post back with the taste-test results at some stage! :) It seems such a great idea - space, fertiliser, water and back saving - but also keeps the crawlies away from the fruit? I wonder why more folk don't use it? Is the fruit not tasty grown like this maybe?
| About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. Mide West WA. 27th July 2011 5:11pm #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 27th July 2011 6:23pm | |||||||
| About the Author Julie Roleystone WA 27th July 2011 7:56pm #UserID: 154 Posts: 1842 View All Julie's Edible Fruit Trees |
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BJ says... Hi Julie, I believe it was taken from Josh Byrne's setup in the video at this link: http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/video/ go to the link for 'Simple Hydroponics (4:03) - 02/07/2011' Good job Amanda. I was thinking of making one up in Spring. Let us know how it goes for you. | About the Author Theposterformerlyknownas Brisbane 27th July 2011 8:28pm #UserID: 3270 Posts: 1552 View All Theposterformerlyknownas's Edible Fruit Trees |
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John Mc says... Amanda, a couple of tips if I may indulge, if you move your bucket reservoir to the higher end of your channel, and use the hose to gravity return your nutrient, your system will become much more efficient. You could get away with a very small 4w pond pump. That way the pump only has to elevate the water from the bucket straight up to the beginning of the channel. It then gravity feeds down the channel, down the hose all the way back to the bucket. At least, lower the supply feeder hose on your system to no higher than channel height to minimise head height, it will make your pump more efficient. a 4w pond pump takes 250 hours to use 1Kw. That means, it will run for more than 10 days for around 30cents. Around $1 per month or $12 per year non stop. | About the Author JohnMc1 27th July 2011 9:46pm #UserID: 2743 Posts: 2043 View All JohnMc1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Thanks John Mc :) The pump I got was a bit too powerful (even though it was a small - should have got extra small!) I even had the inbuilt flow rate as low as possible. I didn't like my chances of returning it to Bunnies all wet ;-) Maybe I should add another pipe of stuff..?(yay!) It was quite funny as the flow rate was initially too high and the perlite was floating out of the holes! Hence I had to put the input hose up high to reduce the flow rate via a higher header pressure. I intially put the shade cloth in to stop this - but the realised it was very useful for holding the plants in place. It's amazing to think of them growing in nothing but liquid at all (and the crowns don't rot?) I like the advantage of being able to move the whole lot in summer - as it's incredibly light once the water drains a bit... Then a mate told me about a strawberry farmer who just uses the half pipes and shade cloth - which sounded pretty sensible, I thought? I was going to use the 150mm storm water pipe but it was going to cost $100 for 4m of it!!? Outrageous huh? This 100mm pipe was $40 with the end caps n glue. Does it matter if the roots fill it up John? Will they suffer for it - or will it just be impossible to get them out? Thanks for your info' - I am really keen to play around with this as I can see a place for it in my garden... Julie - the Isreali watercress is not spicy/hot like the others - Bunnings has it in the "pond plants" section. I am not really a fan of the 'hot' greens (they seem a bit bitter to me?) Looks like John Mc can help us out with some brains-trust here BJ! That's what I love about this forum - there is so much diversity of experience and the willingness to share it :) | About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. Mide West WA. 28th July 2011 9:11am #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... PS - Just saw your other post John Mc...so the roots can block the system? buggar! I will have to make a better system next time..! :) I only have a 10L bucket for a reservior - will I just have to top it up more often then? Also - when/how often do u replenish the entire water/fert solution? And - can you use other liquid fert's besides the (very) expensive hydroponic ones? Thanks guys :) | About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. Mide West WA. 28th July 2011 9:18am #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author ringelstrumpf Mountains 28th July 2011 12:25pm #UserID: 5542 Posts: 160 View All ringelstrumpf's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... I have too many bob-tails (blue tongue, stumpy tails) here for that ringelstrumpf - they pig out on strawb's! Then there's my dogs...the black one raided the capsicum bush in the (fenced) veg garden :-( John Mc - what else is worth trying with this system do u reckon? (apart from illicits..) It would be great for summer crops for my situation here - especially in a shade house...? | About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. Mide West WA. 28th July 2011 3:12pm #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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John Mc says... The water is constantly moving over the roots supplying oxygen and nutrients, so they won't rot. If you want to grow things like lettuce, in a system like your's you have to pot them up into a small pot with a cheap medium like perlite or even cheaper, coco coir, to hold them in place. The commercial guys grow their lettuce seedlings in small square "plugs" of coco, then after the emergence of their forth leaf, they transplant the "plugs" directly into the channels and grow them on from there. The "plugs" are just large enough to hold the seedling in place till the roots grow along the flat bottomed channel and hold it in place. The problem with stormwater channel is that it has a rounded bottom. This makes it difficult to get the bottom of the pot to touch the thin film of nutrient flowing along the bottom of the channel. If you can overcome that it will save you having to replace the entire channel full of medium each crop. You shouldn't reuse the medium because old roots get left behind and rot and can cause problems. I posted a 2 part nutrient formula mix here a little while ago, makes an expensive hydro mix into the cheapest complete fertiliser you could ever buy. I make up 2 x 25litres of concentrate each time. It's normally diluted 4mm of concentrate to each litre of water, that gives you an ec of around 1.6, which is a good general strength. It's at the top end for lettuce, they like it a bit weaker at 1.4. It's also perfect for fertigation. I'll regroup for now and carry on a bit later. | About the Author JohnMc1 28th July 2011 4:22pm #UserID: 2743 Posts: 2043 View All JohnMc1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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John Mc says... OK, Amanda, about your pump, rather than elevating the feeder hose to reduce the amount of water flowing through your system, put a "T" piece with a tap somewhere close to your bucket in your feeder hose line so you can adjust the flow rate. The overflow from the tap can recycle directly back to your reservoir and oxygenate your tank in the process. It will also remove any stress your pump might be under. From memory, I think the commercial guys replace their entire reservoir every month to six weeks, could be shorter, I'll have to check on that one. You can use other water soluable ferts as long as they dont contain urea. I think Miracle grow was about the only commercially available water soluable fertiliser that could be used in hydro. Did you know you can even go organic in hydro? Never tried organic myself. If you do get serious, you will definately need one of these: http://www.getbluelab.com/shop/Bluelab+French+EC+Truncheon%AE+Meter.html They accurately measure the strength of the nutrient solution, it won't tell you which chemical is there or which chemical is in short supply, it only tells you the total nutrient strength of your reservoir. The reason the reservoir is changed on a regular basis is you can get a toxic build up of certain chemicals that are not being used at the same rate as other chemicals in the mix. That's all for now, time to regroup again. | About the Author JohnMc1 28th July 2011 8:14pm #UserID: 2743 Posts: 2043 View All JohnMc1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... You are a legend John Mc - thanks heaps! I have a bit more than a trickle going thru the pipe - it's about half way up the side of the pipe! (a stream?? :) Good idea about the tap - nice lateral thinking John. I also have some Jiffy peat pellets. Despite the cost of the hydro fert it does go a long way doesn't it...I am using the half strength mix stated on the bottle(5mL/Litre rainwater) I have one bottle for "Grow" and one for "Bloom"...? Didn't realise the EC was so important - must do some more homework. My scheme water has an EC of 1663 uS/cm - but I am using rainwater for this. I would eventually like to try an aquaponics system - with yabbies, marron...maybe cherubin..(and red claw if I could smuggle them into WA..lol!) Thanks again John :) | About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. Mide West WA. 28th July 2011 9:15pm #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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John Mc says... Amanda, I see you have one bottle for grow and one bottle for bloom? Just check to see in those one part mixes that there is no precipitate in the bottle. Normally Calcium and sulphate are kept in separate bottles, they have an affinity towards eack other and you get a precipitation of Calcium Sulphate. I knew they were working on a one bottle formula instead of part A and Part B as it has been for years now, so it might be perfected by now, I'd just check your bottle anyway for any precipitate. If there is any, throw it and buy a two part nutrient mix. It does go a long way. I make up a 25litre container of part A and Part B concentrate when I make mine up. Yeah, Aquaponics, you need to be retired and have plenty of time on your hands, it looks like too much hard work. That's a whole subject on it's own with it's own shortcommings. | About the Author JohnMc1 28th July 2011 10:42pm #UserID: 2743 Posts: 2043 View All JohnMc1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi John - yup they are two separate bottles. Do you mix them then? I don't have a clue! :D I am using "Grow" at present cos the strawberries are seedlings - then I planned on using "Bloom" when they are bigger. The bottle instructions aren't very helpful at all. Is the precipitate milky/ultra fine or actually lumps? Thanks for the heads up. I often wonder about the big aquaponics set ups (and even large hydro one's too) as many folk seem to end up disbanding and selling them..? For me - I just want to have it as a small part of my repetoire for growing. Strawbs are difficult for me as our soil and water are saline (tap water ph is 8 - not so great either) and while I don't have slugs n snails - I have 1000's of hungry slaters (a part of arid zone life...) With a school lunch box to pack everyday - I am always needing fruit. Strawb's are not only hideously expensive - they are apparently one of the worst crops for pesticide use...? :-( | About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. Mide West WA. 29th July 2011 9:16am #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Wazza McG says... Hiya Amanda / John Mc When I saw the picture of your pipe set up - I drooled and thought I gotta have one of them - with 4 pipes working. I'd love to know more on how to set it up properly without the pain of trial and error.. I saw the webpage at; http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s3256488.htm and watched the short film clip. If you can recommend a good read I would love to hear from you - thanks for the inspiration.. Im thinking coriander, lettuce and strawberries ;-) | About the Author wazzamcg Brisbane 17th August 2011 7:37pm #UserID: 4149 Posts: 101 View All wazzamcg's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi Wazza McG - this is my first one so I am not the best person to answer this - being a novice :) I just went to Bunnings - got the pipe with matching end caps, a pot of pipe glue and then selected the clear 11mm tubing (which fits the 12mm retic fittings perfectly) After that it's just a case of making the right size holes and sticking it all together. It was very simple. John Mc has some better ideas, above. I wouldn't bother with the perlite again - it was a right pain to deal with and not cheap. Shade cloth stuffed in the holes is working really well for me. I picked my first strawb the other day and it was a Parisian Belle - and it was very good! :) I am thinking of using it to grow my asian/leafy greens too....I usually have problems with growing them in the ground - mainly slaters - but sometimes they are bitter also. | About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. Mide West WA. 18th August 2011 9:17am #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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John Mc says... Amanda's idea is good (and cheap) but if you can find the 90 by 40 rectangular section downpipe, you will have even greater success. You then find some squat pots with a diameter of around 80mm and cut holes in the channel to suit at around 250mm apart. The idea being, the flat bottom of the pot will come into direct contact with the flat bottom of your channel and get maximum exposure to the thin film of nutrient. You don't add any medium to the channel itself, only to the pots to hold the plant in place. That way, when the plant has finished it's useful life, you only have to clean up the pot and replace the medium in the pot. Amanda, asian/ leafy greens go beserk in hydro. When I started, I kept a lookout on council rubbish days for people throwing out old plastic rectangular downpipes, before long I had more than I could use.I joined short ones to make them longer, simply by putting one end near a heat source and stretching it over. Bunnies sell it new, but it's a bit expensive. Also, if you know any roofing or gutter plumbers, they are quite often replacing plastic for metal. You can even use metal channels as long as you cover it totally with a heavy duty plastic. | About the Author JohnMc1 Warnervale NSW 18th August 2011 11:52am #UserID: 2743 Posts: 2043 View All JohnMc1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Wazza McG says... John Mc Would you be happy to help make me make a step by step guide for a 4 tier 90x40 downpipe system that I will make and the instructions posted up here on completion to share? I can email you a plan on what I am thinking and a photo of where it will go. Do you MS Excel by chance? | About the Author wazzamcg Brisbane 18th August 2011 7:16pm #UserID: 4149 Posts: 101 View All wazzamcg's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hey Julie - the watercress is actually "Lebanese" watercress (Aethionema cordifolium) I got it from the Pond Plant section at Bunnings... I am going to take the pup I put in the hydro set-up above, out - as it's very vigorous and I think it will send runners thru the whole thing! I think it's really tasty - much the same as any other cress but without the heat/peppery bite. I am not a fan of really hot greens for some reason - a bit overpowering maybe. Anyway - I am giving the new 'rocket' from Diggers a go - apparently it's less mustardy... :) | About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. Mide West WA. 25th August 2011 8:58pm #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Julie Roleystone WA 26th August 2011 8:52pm #UserID: 154 Posts: 1842 View All Julie's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Speedy says... That plant getting around labeled as 'Lebanese cress' is not Aethionema cordifolium , but actually Apium nodiflorum. a good groundcover plant for wet areas, or to grow through mulch under other plants. It handles summer heat ok, unlike watercress. 'Carrot leaf' sort of flavour, good in mixed green salads, but not really like watercress taste imo. Leaf mustards are a better substitute tastewise. I have it as another low fuss edible green thats always there when/if needed. Nice setup Amanda. I'm guessing you feel as I do ,and prefer to grow in soil, but sometimes conditions are too hard to work against. good yields of pest free strawbs should prove it to be very rewarding to grow that way. Slugs and millipedes often get mine and burrow thmselves inside the fruit so we have to be careful to check each one. I may set one up myself, save a lot of hassle cleaning and checking fruit | About the Author Speedy Nthn Vic. 27th August 2011 12:35am #UserID: 2305 Posts: 250 View All Speedy's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Thanks Speedy. The stawb plants are loving it and growing really fast :) I also like the idea of being able to pick them up and move them so easily - as the conditions will change so drastically between now and summer. Our winds will completely alter in direction and temp - and the angle of the sun, of course. Often the perfect winter spot turns out to be the worst summer one... (north facing) One of the joys of gardening I guess... :D Luckily I have power points at every corner of the house (and upstairs too) It would make a great balcony set-up for those with no garden to grow in, wouldn't it. That "Leb cress" is a monster! I could hardly get it out of the tube so strong were the runners - after only a month eek! Yea - would prefer to grow in soil - but getting 'tender' leafy greens is just not happening for me. The Land Cress I have growing in the hydro is really delicious! I can't eat the one that I have growing in the ground, in comparison - it's got a yukk n super-strong pepper hit. The one in the hydro has a much more refined pepper hit. I am very fussy about my salad greens - lol. But all is not lost - I am able to grow excellent herbs with beautiful concentrated flavours !? :) | About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. Mide West WA. 27th August 2011 12:16pm #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... The one month mark...everything powering along! John Mc - one strawb plant is flowering - I am guessing I switch to the "Bloom" fertiliser now..? (or half of Grow and half of Bloom...?) There's algae growing in the system - I guess that's unavoidable...but it's not affecting anything at all...
| About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. Mide West WA. 30th August 2011 9:57am #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 2nd September 2011 7:45am #UserID: 1947 Posts: 1722 View All Brendan's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hiya Brendan - I think I have to get a special gadget for measuring the conductivity or such, if I go down that path. This "Bloom" part of the hydro fert has (grm/L) NPK 14/14/37.5 (calcium 12 and sulphur 9.3) plus all the trace elements in various quant's.... It's pretty good value as I only need 5mL/L for mature fruit trees in the ground..? (cost about $18 for the one litre bottle) and 10ml/L for hydro set up (I recycle that solution for nearly a month) It would be great for running thru my fertigation system - just need to get my head around how much I would need per tree - as I can't really measure a "per litre" amount with the delivery....? Anyway - maybe I can ask the company that made it. I need to read more about it - but I am guessing it is quite low "salt" ? the tech spec says: "Minimum conductivity 2.5 mS/cm Ph 5.2 CHELATED elements present as complex organic compounds to reduce precipitation and liberated for increased plant uptake" | About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. Mide West WA. 2nd September 2011 4:59pm #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Norma679 says... It's not hairy. Strawberies are ripe then it becomes hairy. And the hairs are fibers that are good for the health. It comes from the seeds.I am use the organic fertilizer for strawberies from https://www.bestbloombooster.com/best-fertilizer-for-blueberries/. | About the Author Norma679 USA 24th August 2018 9:12pm #UserID: 17697 Posts: 4 View All Norma679's Edible Fruit Trees |
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