Mango sudden death! (forum)

Pedro starts with ...
I'm trying to grow a grafted Nam Dic Mai mango down south in Geelong in a pot with premium potting mix. They get thru the winter just fine, then commence flowering. Two years running I've cut off the flowers to promote tree growth instead. Followed this with a half-strength liquid seaweed / fish fertiliser (Powerfeed). Next day the top leaves begin to wilt/ shrivel , followed by lower leaves, wood dieback and death. Grateful for advice. Although I'm down south, the black sapote and jaboticabas are doing very well.

Time: 1st August 2016 3:16pm

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denise1 says...
Mango trees when young can be sensitive to more fertilizer than they need. It can easily kill them. I have sprinkled a very mild liquid fert on the leaves and that seemed ok. I think it is just the roots that get killed and the rest follows.

Time: 2nd August 2016 7:13am

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Markmelb says...
Can you put up some pics of that die back if you have any and a pic of where it is now? How and where do you remove flowers? Do you take some material below stem but leaving obvious buds in direction you want growth. Then I suggest painting some copper based fungicide a bit thicker than spray to stop possible ingression of bacteria etc

Also are you keeping it fairly dry over winter -- other thing is if its outside it could be just cold affected growth as NDM isnt that cold hardy - thats why mine is inside this winter and is currently growing panicles for a possible early flowering.

Have you got fruit on Black Sapote and has your Jab fruited - ground or pot?

Time: 2nd August 2016 7:50am

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Original Post was last edited: 2nd August 2016 7:50am

About the Author Markmelb
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Pedro says...
Thanks for your reply Markmelb. This happened weeks ago, so it's been in the compost for a while. I just snipped off the whole flower stalk because I wasn't expecting the growth to come from the flower spark. Yes, the plant was inside, but the black sapote is outside in a pot. It has set fruit two years in a row, but this year has held on to one golf-ball sized fruit. One jaboticaba is in the ground, one in a large pot. No fruit, but they are putting on growth almost continually. Best wishes Pedro.

Time: 4th August 2016 10:06am

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Pedro says...
Thanks for the response Denise1. Foliar spraying sounds like great idea. I've killed two Nam Doc Mai with this issue so I'm nervous about the new one. I'm tempted not to cut off the flower spikes , and as I'm growing in premium potting mix, I might leave off fertilising the root for a few years! Best wishes, Pedro

Time: 4th August 2016 10:12am

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Figbarron says...
I bought an 18 month old Bowen/Kensington Pride from QLD from an ebay seller. It did not seem bothered by the change in climate or the re-potting. I gave it seasol since the re-potting once a week and it started opening some buds for new growth. Just last week (approx 1 month and 3 weeks since receiving) i gave it some tomato feed (only liquid fertilizer i have at the moment) and it did not seem to mind, no leaf burn/dieback. I gave it to my 2 yr black sapote seedlings (also ebay bought and currently acclimating) i have had for about 2.5 months and they are all fine.
The only tree that did not like liquid fert was my grafted white sapote (2 months from purchase from daleys). A day after giving it nitrosol liquid fertilizer its bottom leaves started turning black at the tips and i flushed it with water several times. All ok now.

Time: 4th August 2016 10:43pm

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Original Post was last edited: 4th August 2016 10:44pm

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Pedro says...
Thanks Figbarron. I've used the same liquid fertiliser on young black sapotes, avocados, mangoes grown from seed, etc with good results. At the first sign of wilting. Immediately after feeding, I gave it a good flush too, but to no avail. Same thing two years in a row. Perhaps the rootstock on this particular plant is especially fertiliser sensitive. Best wishes, Pedro

Time: 5th August 2016 9:55am

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Waterfall says...
Be careful with "premium potting mix" as usually it does not drain well at all on its own, you should be adding some washed sand, pearlite etc. around 50% for drainage.

The black sapote and jabo are essentially drown proof, they love all the water they can get but the mango will not tolerate poor drainage.

Time: 5th August 2016 2:59pm

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Pedro says...
Thanks so much this advice, Waterfall, I'll take your advice. I had thought that mangos are wet tropics weeds and weren't particular about drainage. I guess container growing is a different situation. Many thanks, Pedro

Time: 8th August 2016 8:39am

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KeriNev says...
Sorry to crash this thread, but I am new to the forum and not sure how to start a new thread.
I am trying to grow some mango plants from seed from various Mexican mangoes here in Kerikeri NZ, but I now understand they are monoembryonic so are probably only going to be any good if I can graft onto them - or is it worth waiting (a few years)to see if any decent fruit (I realise it is a tricky business to grow Mangoes here in NZ)come from them? What are my chances? Or is it possible to get some fruiting bud wood from a reasonably nice variety here in NZ? I would be grateful for any help here. Thanks.

Time: 21st August 2016 9:01pm

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denise1 says...
If you have kerikeri volcanic soil or can get some then a seedling can grow quite fast and bear young. A perfect condition is good soil drainage and regular watering such as trickle feed. Such ideal conditions will virtually eliminate the onset of fungus diseases. If you are in a frosty area then you need some protection such as a building or a tree.

Time: 22nd August 2016 2:39pm

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KeriNev says...
Thanks Denise for the helpful advice. I am sorry I am so slow to get back with this - life gets away on us sometimes.
I have some Keitt (I think they are either that or Kent) Mango seedlings growing - seeds from Supermarket bought mangoes but very nice sweet flavor with little fiber. We don't get much variety/options up here in Kerikeri except what the supermarkets stock. So will be good to see how well they grow. I am hoping eventually to get some budwood to graft with.

Time: 18th September 2016 7:19pm

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denise1 says...
If above frostline, on elevated land, you can grow it on sunny side of a fence and if there is no other growth in vicinity to stifle air flow, say to 8 meters radius, you can avoid the settling of fungus diseases on your tree.

Time: 20th September 2016 5:37am

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KeriNev says...
Thanks again Denise. I do have a spot in the garden that could be ideal but I wasn't aware of the need for good airflow. So grateful for the tip about spacing of the trees. It sounds like they are quite susceptible to fungus and not easy to keep growing long term in these more temperate climates.
The seeds that I have managed to get to germinate are doing okay so far, but I am hoping the Aussie mangoes will soon be in the shops here, as I want to try to get some of those to grow if they haven't been to heavily irradiated.

Time: 22nd September 2016 7:35pm

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Original Post was last edited: 22nd September 2016 7:36pm
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Bangkok says...
Mango is a pretty tough tree but it is possible to kill them sure.

With cowdung you almost can't get wrong, they like it.

My tree in full claysoil even survived 2-3 weeks of standing in almost a meter water during the flooding.

But they love high temperature and strong sun (have to get used to it though, so don't plant a young tree from a nursery straight into full sun all day. Do it during a cloudy period.

Also in the wet tropics they get a lot of rain.

I wouldn't give it fertilizer on the leaves, it's risky. Seasol i don't know but i use dried seaweed powder (from canada), 2 teaspoons in 20 litre for spraying, all my tree's seem to like it...never had a problem. If you spray make sure you don't use chlorinated water, rain/riverwater is the best or let tapwater stand for a day in an open bucket/bowl.

Seedling mangotree's grow huge, better have a grafted one unless you like much shade.

I think chokanan is the most easy mango to grow, it also gives the most fruit during the year. I haven't tried all of them but 30 varieties or so.

I don't have experience with mango's in cold climates but it's sure possible as long as they don't freeze to death.

I just bought soil for some tree's, i like natural soil full of dead leaves/branches and some clay mixed..Under in the pot you need many big holes, cover them with stones or whatever you have...i also use a meshed plastic net over the stones so the soil doesn't fill up all the space between the stones..roots also like air.

Temperature for mango goes till 45 celcius or maybe even higher. It's not ideal but they don't have any choice in Thailand. As long as you water them enough they will grow...We have wetseason now, humidity around 70-82% with much rain but the mango doesn't grow a lot. More during hot days.



Time: 23rd September 2016 9:41pm

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denise1 says...
You can grow mango in greenhouse which has still air, but you just dont water the foliage and again avoid merging with other growth. You can keep the door or window open for air circulation. Start with a healthy tree and if an infection happens in the greenhouse just dont grow them there for a couple of years. Fertilize only when they are growing or supposed to be growing.

Time: 24th September 2016 10:41am

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rasika says...
Just quick question,
If graft dies but rootstock is getting new leaves. What happens next?
Sorry sounds stupid but I am confused.
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2
Picture: 3

Time: 30th November 2022 11:18pm

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Avo L134 says...
If your graft dies and new growth is coming from below the graft union, then you no longer have the variety that you initially purchased. If your rootstock does eventually bare fruit it is will be an unknown variety/quality.
However from the pictures that you have uploaded, it appeared that your rootstock looked to be dying as well.

Time: 5th December 2022 9:56am

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