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Trace Elements/minerals?

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starling starts with ...
Anyone know what trace elements I should be adding to the soil for my fruit trees? I have a slightly acid clay soil. I have been adding pure cow manure with ash from bonfires mixed into it, as well as sand, to try and condition the soil. On top of this I've put a thock layer of sugarcane mulch and on top the sugarcane I've put sorghum mulch. Not sure what trace elements to add. When I dug the beds I pretty much drowned the soil in gypsum to try and break up the very dense clay.

S
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18th September 2013 1:43pm
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JakfruitEttiquette says...
Trace elements have well known deficiency symptoms, shown up as leaf mottling/ patterns. You could check for symptoms.
They can be in excess too if over supplied.
Apart from that, soil pH (6.5 to 7.0 ) is more important in governing TE availability than the actual ammount of element present in the soil.
If nothing is obviously wrong, you may consider composting some of your inputs before adding, which might make elements more available.
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jakfruit etiquette
 
18th September 2013 5:55pm
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starling says...
Jakfruit,

Not getting any black spots, but on some of the trees the new growth is crinkly and yellow. They are all getting good water, and they are all heavily and deeply mulched. Any thoughts on why this is happening?

S
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18th September 2013 7:26pm
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Boris Spasky says...
Besides citrus, TE are rarely an issue for most fruiting trees in soils worked with good levels of organic matter.
Rock dust (very slow release) and seaweed based products generally suffice for TE needs.
Otherwise Manutec have a trace element pack.
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Boris Spasky
 
18th September 2013 8:41pm
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Original Post was last edited: 18th September 2013 8:45pm
Mike says...
From the excess use of gypsum the first problems to correct will be the antagonistic impacts on magnesium and potassium. Macronutrient imbalances should be corrected first.
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18th September 2013 9:48pm
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Chris says...
Adding sand to clay soils results in a concrete like mix after the first rain. Sand sounds like an quick fix, but it doesn't work.
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Chris
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18th September 2013 9:52pm
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denise1 says...
Some really good info there folks. You could do a soil test or just do the organic material adding which carries little risk of imbalance. I have seen pure clay with pine bark stripping hoed in, and then a series of green manure also hoed in. After a couple of intensive years it became a vege garden. Little else was added. Sometimes crop rotation is necessary as allelopathic residues from a crop will work against growing the same or certain other crops afterwards. The signs could mimic a mineral or T.E. deficiency. Occasionally a tree will leave an allelopathic load in the soil that can thwart the growth of other plants for years to come. In bygone centuries the gardeners main tool against disease was crop rotation, companion planting, fallowing and quality compost methods. If certain plants are not doing well,there are many options, Try another cultivar, change planting site, amend soil etc, or just grow something that has no problems because it suits the site better.
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denise1
auckland NZ
19th September 2013 7:20am
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Mike says...
Australian soils are very TE deficient and this is alo reflected in mulch from plants grown in deficient soils.Unless soils are from young basalt derived material or rich alluvials TE will help.Mulch is still the best soil additive and in spite of many views to the contrary I reckon basalt rock flour actually works.Allepathy shouldn't last years in biologically active soils.Pathogen loads for specific groups can last a while after the plant has gone especially for solanums,acacias and a few others.Rotation of Families would help.
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19th September 2013 7:36am
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yry says...
If you suspect TE deficiency then you get quicker and cheaper results (less material needed) by using foliar sprays. Gypsum is not a cure-all but only works for sodic clays .Easy to find out if ,in fact,your clay is sodic.(see clear water overnight test)
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yry
 
19th September 2013 5:57pm
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Mike says...
http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20chalker-scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Gypsum.pdf
You have to be careful with using gypsum and some claims for it seem exaggerated.
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19th September 2013 6:36pm
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starling says...
Thanks for all the feedback guys, very much appreciated. I think at this stage I might just keep composting and mulching heavily, and will try and pick up some foliar sprays.

tyvm
S
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19th September 2013 8:08pm
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Boris Spasky says...
Foliar sprays are often quite costly and not a permanent solution. Citrus for example will not take in foliar sprays through the stomates, except when new leaves are about half size.
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Boris Spasky
 
19th September 2013 9:44pm
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amanda says...
I am now using this stuff and I am very happy with it actually? It's a rock dust - as Boris mentioned above...
Even my most fertiliser-sensitive sub tropicals are totally fine with it...


http://www.nofrillsfertilisers.com.au/?page_id=115
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amanda19
Leschenault (150km south of Perth)
19th September 2013 10:45pm
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yry says...
Boris, the reason that trace element deficiency occurs is often because the soil pH is too alkaline to make the elements ionize; adding the elements to the soil does not fix the problem . Thus it is better to use foliar sprays in this situation and,also, when the roots are too cold, foliar sprays may be a better choice. Stomata are for respiration, not for trace element absorption.
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yry
 
20th September 2013 9:18am
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Mike says...
The waxy cuticle of mature leaves reduces foliar uptake in many species.Having the right pH is a good start with many soils but in Australia many soils are just flogged,leached and deficient.Element deficiency is commonly due to antogonistic influences of over applied nutrients.
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20th September 2013 10:11am
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Boris Spasky says...
yry, Chelated elements overcome pH issues or elements being locked up in the soil.
Perhaps a 101 for you..stomates are like pores in your skin...the only way foliar sprays can be absorbed is through them.
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Boris Spasky
 
20th September 2013 11:44am
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yry says...
Ahem , pores in the skin do not absorb anything much ;they are for sweat and sebaceous secretions. And foliar sprays are absorbed through the cells themselves otherwise one would need to wait for stomata to open before spraying.
Yes, there is chelated iron but all the other elements such as Boron ,Mn, Mg etc are not sold in chelated form.
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yry
 
20th September 2013 12:50pm
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starling says...
Mike,

wait a minute--magnesium? Like magnesium sulphate? So basically I could just mix up some epsom salts in water and this would count as a foliar magnesium spray? Ash is pretty much potassium and calcium, I have that sorted. Everything seems to need nitrogen....apparently trees naturally process nitrogen with molybdenum? I don't think I can buy a pound of that anywhere, people would think I'm making a dirty bomb lol

S
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20th September 2013 1:05pm
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Original Post was last edited: 20th September 2013 1:16pm
Mike says...
Starling there are 6 macros N,P,K ate the main 3 with Ca,S and Mg being the next tier down.Ca rarely has to be added to soil,S is in most combined fertilizers and Mg is in epsom salts.I don't know if it can be absorbed by leaves in that form.
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20th September 2013 1:20pm
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starling says...
Mike thanks for the info, I think I'm just going to try for an NPK fertiliser and keep composting with organic matter. Reading a few articles right now that say apaprently MO is more important than P in nitrogen fixing--interesting. This article is pretty good, have only read the abstract but I'm going to download the PDF, let me know of you want me to forward a copy or whatnot.

http://www.nature.com/ngeo/journal/v2/n1/abs/ngeo366.html

Just out of interest, I looked up how much MO costs powdered...Jesus Mary and Joseph. Lets just say I won't be trialling it any time soon.

Thanks for the feedback
S
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20th September 2013 1:38pm
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Mike says...
Mo is needed in such miniscule amounts and it is unlikely to be a necessary micronutrient to be applied.
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20th September 2013 3:22pm
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starling says...
Thanks mike, I'll go with the NPK. Thanks for taking the time to answer, and for not playing the game of secret squirrel which happens on many other forums.

S
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20th September 2013 3:26pm
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yry says...
If you go to your local supermarket and get Epsonm Salts, read the label and it will instruct you how to make up a foliar spray.
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yry
 
20th September 2013 3:39pm
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starling says...
Thanks yry, I'll pick some up tonight.

S
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20th September 2013 3:53pm
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Chris says...
Kurt, if only you hadn't changed your username to 3 digit wingding characters, we might never have known who you are!!!
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Chris
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20th September 2013 4:58pm
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2485 says...
Yes you are right.I would rather mix in potting mix sand/lawn topping sand to give soil more drainage.Another alternative is to buy potting mix in bulk.like a 6x4 trailer or even in plastic buckets,find a landscaping yard that sells in bulk.Remove some of the clay soil and blend in potting mix and sand into the rest of the clay soil.Be careful with compost because it gets very soggy when wet .This is why I have suggested potting mix it has sand added but more sand will needed to counteract the effects of the clay soil.Sand helps to draw down/dry out moisture levels in soils.Again not too much sand or soil will dry too quickly,a little experimenting is needed.Plants have difficulty in uptaking minerals in soggy,compacted soils. Gypsum contains salt,dont believe all the hype.
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AC1
 
22nd September 2013 2:35pm
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