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2 trees in one hole?

    48 responses

Chelle starts with ...
Has anyone ever heard of planting two trees in one whole? Would they graft together and compliment each other? My Dad suggested doing that as we have limited space but I've never heard of such a thing. He's been gardening all his life and does quite well, but I've never seen him do it either.
Anyone know anything about it?
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Chelle
Brisbane
1st August 2007 2:03pm
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Dianna says...
Hi Chelle, yes I've heard of this, it was on Burkes backyard or somewhere. As long as they are both citrus trees, or both apple trees. It will work.

Cheers
Dianna
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Dianna
Greenbank Q
1st August 2007 5:29pm
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Chelle says...
So a nectarine and peachcot together would be ok? Would they both stay small, end up being one tree or what - is it really just as easier way to graft?
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Chelle
Brisbane
1st August 2007 8:06pm
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Dianna says...
Hi Chelle, they should be happy together. You have to prune them every summer, so you keep them in check. I have to keep mine small so I can cover them up to keep the fruit flies off them. They don't (or shouldn't) end up being one tree. Happy Gardening. Cheers, Dianna.
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Dianna
Greenbank Q
2nd August 2007 8:00am
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Stella says...
Chelle, Have you thought about multigrafts?
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4th August 2007 8:59pm
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Stella says...
....and I also have seen on TV someone planting two trees in the same hole. They probably don't grow quite as big.
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Two Rocks
4th August 2007 9:02pm
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Greg says...
If you have limited space and you want to have more varieties in that space I would suggest planting closer together, not necessarily in the same hole. The trees will grow intogether but just prune them so the more vigorous one dosn't take over. The end result is the same as a multigraft but you have 2 distinct trees on seperate rootstocks
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Greg
Kyogle
5th August 2007 3:36am
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Steve says...
Chelle, I have lots of duos and trios in my garden, as well as multigrafts. The duos and trios are planted about 20-30cm apart in the same hole. They are easier to manage than multigrafts and are slightly dwarfed by competition. Plant varieties with different ripening times and get a nice prolonged harvest from the one site. It works a treat although you disease and pest control needs to be good.
Pictures - Click to enlarge

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Steve5
Armidale
10th August 2007 11:28pm
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mal says...
it's a brilliant idea.

these guys go up to four.
http://davewilson.com/homegrown/BOC_explained.html

DON'T put them in the same hole but around 18 inches apart and keep them small. i used to think 2 meters was good, but now keep some pruned EXTRA small, like 12 inches from the ground for the first year snip, and these are now my favourite prunings. so easy to manage.

don't go for the standard old fashioned pruning ideal, but hit them HARD and stuff 4 times the trees in your back yard.
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mal1
tbar
11th August 2007 5:16pm
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Chelle says...
Hey everyone, thanks heaps for your replies! Gives me more options to consider, although I'm still a little worried about pruning etc - I really am a novice. And thanks for the photos Steve - really helped to see visuals.
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Chelle
Brisbane
13th August 2007 10:20am
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Nicole Carter says...
I have planted 3 in one hole and they grow and fruit with no trouble. I have a multi graft peach originally 3 way graft, I have lost one graft and 1 of the two left is much weaker than the other. I would not recommend multi graft.

The disadvantage of 3 in one hole is it is harder to prune, bag fruit or spray.

I have my pears, quince and apples as a thomas bouch hedge (eapaliered) not against a wall, I wish I had done this for the stone fruit. Diggers has a garden near melbourne where they are espaliering all the fruit trees.
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Camden
22nd November 2007 12:13pm
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Julie says...
I would like to find out a bit more about planting dual fruit trees in the one hole or close togeher.What is the maximum number of trees you can grow this way close together? Can it be done with pear trees, for instance a Packam pear and a Nashi pear together? Also can it be done with citrus?
Thanks
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Julie8
Barossa
10th March 2008 8:56am
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aNON says...
try www.davewilson.com lotsa multi planting info.
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aNON
 
10th March 2008 4:00pm
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aNON says...
D'Oh, already above.

Flemings recommend 150mm on thier website.
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aNON
 
10th March 2008 4:43pm
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Libby says...
Yes if you go to the Flemings website, there is info on duo/trio plantng. But it must be compatible types. When we lived in Melb, the garden had 2 apple trees a red delicious and a granny simth planted in the same hole, maybe 1 feet apart and it grew really well. So recently I planted a pink lady with Granny smith in our new garden in Syd plus blood orange and tangello together in another hole, a donut peach and a peacharine in a third hole. It's better to have separate trees rather than a multi grafted one as sometimes, one can become the dominant specie.
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Libby4
Sydney
19th October 2008 5:59pm
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fruitist says...
I practise dual hosting for 2 entirely different trees based on non-interfernce principle in terms of tree form and root system.
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9th November 2008 7:28pm
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Eve says...
That sounds interesting fruitist. What combinations have you tried. It makes sense to plant a deep rooted type with a shallow rooted type.
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Canberra
13th November 2008 1:43pm
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Anonymous says...
Use the same rooting depth that way they competet and dwarf each other.
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13th November 2008 9:42pm
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david says...
HI if you put two trees in the some hole i have read that this will dwarf the tree but WILL IT DWARF THE FRUIT AS WELL ??????? thankyou for answer
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david11
adelaide
28th November 2008 12:14pm
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Leah says...
Hi,

From my understand (watching peter cundall) when the fruit tree is dwarfed you get less fruit, but the fruit is larger in size. So in relation to overall volume of fruit it would be roughly the same amount to a regular tree.

As the tree puts all its energy into producing the biggest and best fruit that it can. This is why a lot of people are keen to recommend pruning and keeping the tree a manageable size.

This web page is good

http://www.davewilson.com/homegrown/all_ed/ed_plantTrees.html

Cheers
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Leah
Melbourne
28th November 2008 1:22pm
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Anonymous says...
Fruit size will depend on the number of fruit set compared to the size of the tree- the more fruit set for a given tree size- the smaller the fruit will be.

Fruit thinning is sometimes required to get good sized fruit from a tree- it doesn't matter whether it's dwarf or not.
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Itdepends2
 
28th November 2008 1:30pm
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Ali says...
I'm really interested in this concept, have been ever since I heard of it- it seems like the ideal way to get small, manageable crops of fruit in an average-sized backyard. Grow the trees jammed close together so they naturally 'dwarf' and you wind up with lots of smaller crops rather than one or two overwhelming crops and lots of 'dry' periods (my rental backyard for instance has three enormous citrus trees- lemon, mandarin & grapefruit- all WAY too big to be well-managed, so quite bug-infested. And we get ONE lot of each type of fruit, so tonnes for a few weeks then none at all).

I'd love to encourage anyone who's done this in Sydney or similar climates to share their experience! I'd love to know what sorts of fruits you grow together, what varieties, and how successful it's been. Photos would be tops too.
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Ali
Sydney
28th November 2008 8:33pm
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david says...
HI this may seem a silly question but if you have 2 trees in the same hole do you have to water them TWICE as much or the same as if you had one tree in the hole thanks for you replys.
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david11
adelaide
1st December 2008 9:37pm
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Anonymous says...
Water about the same- it's the type of tree and size of the canopy/fruit load that determines the water needs. With two trees in one hole you don't end up with two full sized trees next to each other but two smaller trees growing together- hence similar water needs to a single tree.
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Itdepends2
 
2nd December 2008 8:32am
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Adele says...
I'd like to grow a Fuji apple tree Melbourne East. Where can I buy one?
Do I need a pollinator and what type of other apple? Could I grow both in the same hole or just slightly apart?
Thanks
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Melbourne
4th December 2008 1:51pm
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Steve says...
I have heaps of duos and trio's (and a few quads). Mostly the same fruit but different varieties ripening at different times so we get a nice distribution of fruit. Most are now 4-7 years old. My observations are
a) Fruit size is fine, more determined by the extent of fruit thinning than anything else. I get heavy yields.
b) Dominance issues are less than for multigrafts, but not eliminated. Eg Shady side will grow less, some varieties are just less vigorous.
c) Trees are dwarfed to some extent but large trees like apricots and cherries still need serious pruning to keep to a manageable size (3-3.5m high).
d) Agree that pruning and management is more difficult but it helps if you end up pruning the 2 or 3 trees as a single tree with 3 closely spaced trunks. Each is lopsided on its own, but together they form a roughly "normal" tree shape - inevitably vase shaped.
e) Watering is probably a function of total plant mass - certainly ealier on this is greater in duos and trios, but not later.
f) All of my other fruit tree problems are dwarfed by the issue of BIRDS. Figuring out practical ways to net pretty large trees is my current challenge. I suppose having 3 under one net is economical although if they ripen over a long period it means a prolonged period of netting.
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Steve5
Armidale NSW
9th December 2008 10:37pm
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Eve says...
Adele
You can get advice about apples from the fellow at Badger's Keep at Chewton in Victoria. He does mail order as well and can advise on pollinators and all things apples.

I don't have his information anymore but I am sure you could search him online or in the Vic telephone pages.
Cheers
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Canberra
11th December 2008 9:02am
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david says...
Hi Steve can you put some photos on the site it would be great to see them.
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david11
adelaide
11th December 2008 7:46pm
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Anon says...
Badger's Keep - apple orchard has apparently closed in Victoria.
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26th January 2009 6:58pm
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Alexa says...
Adele I'd recommend Woodbridge Fruit Trees, they're also quite knowledgeable.

http://www.woodbridgefruittrees.com.au/

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Alexa
Melbourne
27th January 2009 12:58pm
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Alexa says...
Has anyone tried combining two-trees-one-hole with espalier? Perhaps planting them next to each other, then each one gets tied down to opposite sides of the frame?
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Alexa
Melbourne
27th January 2009 12:59pm
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interplanetjanet says...
I found this thread most helpful as I have bought 4 fruit trees and have been looking for novel ways to plant them..the form of growth is called "saulen" which is basically an upright trunk with fruit growing close to it..much thanks to you all for sharing your knowledge and photos
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interplanetjanet
Kiwi in Germany
21st April 2009 4:34pm
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Tiggerbow says...
Flemings website has a 'help' guide on 'duo plantings' - it seems quite good.
Of course the trees have to be apples with apples or the like.
I am going to give this a go myself and save some space in the garden.
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Tiggerbow
Perth, WA
22nd April 2009 2:12pm
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kelyeah says...
Is is possible to plant two apple trees and two cirtus trees in the same hole? I want to plant a granny smith, a red varity (not sure what yet), lemonade and orange tree but have limited space.
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kelyeah
Adelaide
12th September 2011 4:08pm
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Jimmy says...
Of course, try searching the net for" backyard orchard culture" from dave Wilson nursery, they ahve videos explaining it all !
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12th September 2011 5:00pm
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Wazza McG says...
My double plants are for oranges, mandarins - 15cm apart. Apples on Espalier.

Yes, I have an average backyard and the intention was to prolong supply of oranges, mandarins and apples by having the different varieties.

They are;

Dwarf Washington Navel and Dwarf Valencia (both on Flying Dragon root-stock).

Dwarf Imperial and Dwarf Emperor (both on Flying Dragon root-stock).

I also have 6 varieties of apples on a L-Shaped espalier about 2m apart from each other.

1 @ Pinkabelle
1 @ Lady Williams
1 @ Sundowner
1 @ Pink Lady
1 @ Jonagold
1 @ Fuji

I initially put comfrey under these plants and I must admit it was a mistake.

The comfrey did improve the soil in the area - which was the intention, but then, the comfrey started to over-power the area.

I just spent 3 days digging it out and no doubt a few future days as the roots regrow - even small morsels of root.
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wazzamcg
Brisbane
12th September 2011 7:51pm
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Original Post was last edited: 12th September 2011 8:04pm
sandy31 says...
can i plant new bare root Nectarine ( goldmine) tree next ( 18 inches apart) to a one year old ( ground time)nectarine ( Fantasia) Tree as a Duo ?
I ran out off space in backyard and don't want to put this new Tree into pot.
This is the only option i have.

Thanks in advance
sandy
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sandy31
Quakers Hill
17th July 2014 10:14am
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sternus1 says...
Option three is to graft one onto the other. That way you get both fruit, and don't have to worry about space.
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sternus1
Australia
17th July 2014 11:57am
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JohnMc1 says...
In my humble opinion, I'd go with the two distinct trees like you said, 18 inches apart. You already have the tree and they grow well together, even in the same hole.
Whatever way you decide, keep the larger/faster growing tree in check.
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John Mc
Warnervale NSW
17th July 2014 2:08pm
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sandy31 says...
Hay Guys
I have a tight corner spot, a raised bed 85cm x 85cm, on corner blocked by the colour bound garage wall. Being on corner of garden bed left side is limited too . ( see attached pic)
will it be best to plant 2 ( duo) or 3 (trio) here.
The Plant in pic is now moved to new location.
I went freak into bare root sale and bought 3 fruit trees ( Luisa Plum, Double Jewel Peach and Spice zee Nectaplum)
if planting 2 or 3 plants in one hole , how much Tree width we looking at from the base of Trunk ( consider all trunks as one)in each direction ?
Thaks
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sandy31
Quakers Hill
23rd July 2014 9:46pm
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Original Post was last edited: 23rd July 2014 9:45pm
Jack P. says...
Are dogwood and redbud compatible for same hole planting??
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Jack P.
Spring,TX
11th April 2015 6:13am
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A.C says...
I have 2 fig trees 2peach multigrafts 2 plum multigrafts all 3 lots are planted companion planting .Stunts growth easy to manage but I tried it with olives ,one tree failed to fruit unsure if it was due to companion planting or tree itself had fruiting issue.Overall would recommend it.Trees must be similar fruits set apart approx 450mm.You can set 3 close together in a triangular formation or 4 in a rectangular formation.One problem to watch for is domination of one tree over another tree close by.During winter or dormant period you may want to sever roots in the middle between trees with a sharp spade or 6 foot knob and chisel crowbar to approx 400mm deep , give the smaller tree chance to grow more larger in the following spring.A word of warning using this approx there is risk of killing one of the trees.You have to know as a gardener which trees are aggressive root growers and can handle a cut back of roots.Ive done it to the peach trees they were ok.I watered the trees with a solution of seasol after cutting roots.Companion planting is good but you will need to develop different management skills as a gardener. Good luck guys.
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AC1
Cowadilla S.A5033
11th April 2015 11:16am
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Markmelb says...
I heard from an Olive Farmer not to plant too close together or they wont fruit.
Seems like that is correct from your experiance AC as even 4 metres was too close thay said.So im growing in 510mm pots.
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Markmelb
MT WAVERLEY,3149,VIC
11th April 2015 7:43pm
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Original Post was last edited: 11th April 2015 7:42pm
A.C says...
If someones given you some good advice about companion planting olive trees then take it.If Id known about the olive tree issues I would not have done it.Ive seen some other of your postings about white sapotes.Of those you have growing which one has the best tasting fruit?Do you know much about Golden Globe variety/taste ?What time of the year could I graft a second type onto an Ortega variety tree? Thank you.
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AC1
Cowadilla S.A5033
20th April 2015 6:17pm
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Original Post was last edited: 20th April 2015 6:13pm
Markmelb says...
Hi AC - I am also doing multiplanting as well as MultiGrafting.

I have only tasted an Unknown large fruit that could be Lemon Gold or Golden Globe and tastes great - like banana Custard - but have had one tasting like lemon Merangue pie - yum

I have been playing with White Sapotes for 4 years and still dont have a good pollinator - eg my Pike has only small fruit no seeds so isnt pollinated correctly but fruit is great and skin not great but not bitter - i just scoop it out with a spoon. The 4 year old Hawaiian Supreme dissapointing till I get that pollinator happening :(

My Multiplant of Reneike - Irving and Suebelle havnt flowered yet but have grown well this last summer. I grafted a Lem Gold on an Irving branch thats alive but not pushing growth yet.

Bit worried about Reineke as doubled the rest in height and a friends is quit big and not fruited yet.

Trying to work out what to do with a Kampong - G Globe and Vista i grafted to a seedling this year - so may need to get a Bigger Block not a Bigger Boat :)
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Markmelb
MT WAVERLEY,3149,VIC
20th April 2015 6:22pm
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Original Post was last edited: 20th April 2015 6:21pm
A.C says...
Thanks for your reply. Ive got a White Sapote (Ortega) going great guns,almost scary . The fruits are good if picked just as theyre soft and eaten straight away.Strong Vanilla taste with Rockmelon undertones. The pulp is thick like an Avocado. Im going to attempt to graft the Golden Globe onto it.If that fails Mr Ortega will have to get used to having a little buddy Master Globe growing close by.Quite honestly this companion planting has been very good. Peaches and plums very good ,Figs not bad.With figs you have to watch for the dominant one that stunts the other ,you have to cut roots in between them in winter to give undersize tree a chance to grow,this is a very risky practice.I put a 3 way peach next (750mm apart) to a Snow queen peach ,its been very good.
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AC1
Cowadilla S.A5033
22nd April 2015 10:07pm
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Waterfall says...
I don't have any duo planting yet but do have a pair of lychee lined up for planting at the end of winter.

I have a number of dual graft trees. Pink lady and granny smith apple which I purchased as a dual graft and a number of trees I have grafted myself including a spicezee natraplum and new boy nectarine on a peach and a handful of citrus which may or may not take. Both my attempts at grafting mango failed.
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Waterfall
Waterfall
23rd April 2015 1:30pm
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Original Post was last edited: 23rd April 2015 1:30pm
NinaR says...
I realise there hasn't been any activity on this forum for a while so hoping I'll get a few replies.

I want to make the most of my garden - a couple of fruit trees were put in about 1-2 years ago prior to me having to move for work. Now that I have moved back I am wondering if I can now try the '1 hole, multiple trees' theory by planting trees in close proximity to those that are already in the garden?

I already have a:-
1) pomegranate - thinking of adding another 1-2 varieties. Has anyone done something similar with pomegranates?
2) lime - thinking of adding a lemon & either a lemonade, keffir lime or other type of citrus (I'll likely do oranges & grapefruit together in another location, & a couple of types of mandarin in a third location)
3) Apricot - I'd like to add another 1 to 2 types of apricot so that I have nice fresh fruit for a longer portion of the year.

I guess the main considerations would be to try to get the new trees in a similar size to my existing trees so that they aren't dwarfed & also need to be careful not to sever too many roots of the existing trees when planting the new tress - this is something probably easier said than done!

Also - if I want to plant multiple fruits in one hole, does this mean that those trees will need more growing space independent of other 'bunches' of trees? Or in other words, how close could I then plant my next lot of multiple fruit trees in one hole (e.g 2/3/etc metres between each 'bundle').

Any help/guidance/ideas/opinions will be most welcome! Thanks in advance
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NinaR
SA
11th August 2015 12:18am
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Bryn55 says...
Well I am about to plant a Satsuma Plum and a Santa Rosa plum in the same hole. The reason is that each one needs the other for cross pollination. With fewer bees around it help to have them as close as possible. So says my nursery person. The holes is 1 meter diameter and 600 mm deep. Filled with improved soil. Here's hoping they both do well but I am not certain what I'll do with all the fruit if it comes to pass !
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Bryn55
Reynella SA
21st July 2019 7:14pm
#UserID: 20606
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