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PAW PAW DISEASE

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Chris starts with ...
Hi i am having a problem with Paw Paw trees the under side of the leaves have black spots,this bug must suck the sap from the leaves and kills the leaf. I have seen this on other trees around Brisbane through out winter.
Any ideas appriciated.
Chris
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Brisbane Qld.
10th August 2008 12:57pm
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peter says...
black flat oval shaped spots.

if you press them with your finger
they should squirt some fluid.

if so then probably scale.
white oil is supposed to fix.

if you peel one of the leaf
and look at underside with magnifing
glass you should see the little bug.

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peter30001
adelaide
10th August 2008 5:07pm
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mike says...
Hi, I'v planted some pawpaws and papinos and they responded beautifully and started bearing a lot of fruit. ALAS...looked forward so much to enjoy it, but they all go limp and soft as a result of what appears to be stung by a fruitfly?? or something, because white coloured sap seems to be oozing out all over the fruit and this desease?? is spreading to all the trees. Please help!!!What can I do to prevent this?
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mike13
Australia
22nd October 2009 6:42pm
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Wayne says...
Where are you Mike, something is stinging your fruit. I don't think it is fruit fly, it sounds more like a fruit spotting bug.
http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5107.html

Can you see any activity around the trees??
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
22nd October 2009 7:31pm
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mike says...
No, I haven't noticed any insects or bugs around.
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mike13
Australia
24th October 2009 8:57pm
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Wayne says...
This might sound like a silly question Mike, but do you have any citrus trees close by
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
25th October 2009 7:43am
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Sue Southwick says...
My paw-paws are wilting and dieing. When I pull them out there main stem has a soft section that collapses. I can see no sign of any insects. The weather has been very hot, have had trouble giving them enough water, but thought they should have survived on what I gave them. We live in Mackay, Qld.
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Sue Southwick
Mackay, Qld.
26th December 2009 10:59am
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Wayne says...
Hello Sue
From what you were saying I thought you might have been over watering them but apparently not, so I am not sure what your problem is.

I will send an email to Brendan who is also a member here in mackay, he might know.

Wayne
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Wayne
Mackay
26th December 2009 11:12am
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Brendan says...
Hi Sue,
Sounds like too wet to me too? Paw paws don't like a lot of water.

Next time you plant some, dig in lots of composted cow manure (eg moo poo), some dolomite and gypsum. The secret to growing good paw paws is too much mulch.

After they're growing well, say 6 to 9 months, give them some fertilizer like Dynamic Lifter Plus, and some extra Sulphate of Potash, that will make them fruit.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
27th December 2009 7:55am
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Mike says...
Paw Paw tree grew well and produced some fruit then growing tip of tree withered and rotted. I cut this off weel down trunk but next side shoot did same. This was second attempt as first plant did same but before fruiting.
Advice please
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Mike16
Mt Coolum Qld
2nd June 2010 12:26pm
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Wayne says...
Sounds like the dreaded die-back fungus Mike. I would suggest to get rid of the tree altogether, make sure you put it in the bin, not to compost
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
2nd June 2010 3:42pm
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QJ says...
Hi Wayne

Was just reading your comments above to Mike Australia and relized that I have the same problem with my paw paw tree and I do have a citrus tree (lemon) approx. 2mtrs away from the plant? Do you have any suggestions on what I could do to save the tree? It is fairly tall and is still producing a bunch of fruit however this can not be eaten due to problem. There is also some banana trees close by.

Much appreciated.
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Thursday Island
14th June 2010 7:38pm
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Robbie says...
I have paw trees growing along side of the house and they have black spots on leaves and new fruit. Have just cut off all old growth/diseased leaves and sprayed young ones with white oil. Hoping if I fertilise and mulch them now this will help them pick-up. I have eaten 1 paw paw from these trees and it was delicious so I don't want to loose them.
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Robbie3
Nambucca Valley
21st July 2010 12:58pm
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FiFi says...
Check out Annette McFarlanes website, sorry I don't have the URL, she has some advice which I myself will be putting to the test.
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Brisbane North
3rd August 2010 8:16pm
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Marl says...
Hi Wayne
I have a paw paw tree about 8 months old..it is growing beside a shed...all the leaves are a pale green/yellow and are curling up on the ends (the whole leaf is just about closed from the curling)

I have previously grown a paw paw near the spot the new one is planted - and it grew well but the fruit was always bitter so we removed it.

Hope you can help.
Regards
Marl
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Marl
Goomeri Qld
28th October 2010 11:11am
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BJ says...
Was on Gardening Australia last week.

http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s3043838.htm

I'm about to chop down 3 big ones that became infected around the time of our downpours. They are getting old and their fruits are almost overly prolific but pungent, so its time for them to go. They have a number of self seeded plants popping up around them now, so best to get the old ones out before the young ones get infected too...
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Theposterformerlyknownas
Brisbane
28th October 2010 11:44am
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Wayne says...
Hi BJ
I watched the show to and was a bit surprised about disposing the old plant into compost

Hi Marl
Sounds like you have what the TV show was about. If it was dieback the top of the tree would be stunted and the leaves small, as if something has compressed the top of the tree.

You could have cured that bitter taste with epsom salts and dolomite I think
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
28th October 2010 12:34pm
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Judy says...
Have black spots on a lot of the new fruit on my tree. Leaves are going yellow but don't appear to have black spots. There are heaps of fruit on this tree so would love to save them if possible. Can you help, please?
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Judy3
Brisbane
8th March 2011 10:08am
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francis gomes says...
I have a pawpaw tree it is growing good
it bears fruits to about an inch and half
then falls from the tree.
I am located about a quater mile from the sea.could the location be the problem?
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francis gomes
antigua and barbuda
8th May 2011 1:59am
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Rob says...
I have a number of paw paws growing and fruiting well. The fruit, as it ripens, develops black spots on the surface of the fruit which grow and enter the flesh of the fruit as hard areas or mould. If left the surface of the fruit becomes heavily pitted. There is no black spot on the leaves or anywhere else on the tree.

Any ideas as I would like nice smooth pawpaws so I can convince the kids to eat them.
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Rob16
Skennars Head
25th May 2011 1:04pm
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Wayne says...
Hello francis
"it bears fruits to about an inch and half then falls from the tree"

Does the fruit yellow before dropping off? If so it could be a calcium deficiency, try spreading dolomite under the tree.

Hello Rob
Try sulphate of potash and then spray with copper oxichloride and mancozeb combo weekly with a wetting agent.
I would also be inclined to spread some dolomite under the tree.
To give your fruit texture and sweeten it spread some epsom salts around. If your fruit is hard spread a smidgen of borax around

Mulch well under the trees

cheers
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Wayne
 
25th May 2011 6:15pm
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Original Post was last edited: 25th May 2011 6:17pm
Jantina says...
Welcome back to the forum Wayne! Good stuff.
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Jantina
Mt Gambier
27th May 2011 9:56am
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amanda says...
Nice post Jantina :) I second that.
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amanda19
Geraldton, Mid West WA
27th May 2011 10:07am
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Wayne says...
Thanks Ladies, I promise to be meek and mild now that %$#*&@ seems to be gone
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Wayne
 
27th May 2011 5:42pm
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amanda says...
Hasn't it been lovely! :) It's great to be able to relax on here again.
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amanda19
Geraldton, Mid West WA
27th May 2011 6:42pm
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foxberryfarm says...
First year grafted PawPaw from nursery planted early this spring. Huge amount of spring growth (tripled in size) but suddenly multiple leaf edges are turning black. Not spots but entire edges of leaves. Two second year PawPaws planted 10 and 20 feet away are OK. We had a very wet spring (heavy rain every couple days - half inch each time) and now it suddenly turned hot (daytime 90's)and the leaves are now blackening and curling on the edges. What is best to do at this point? Too much water, so don't water? Too much fertilizer so flush?
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foxberryfarm
Joppa, MD, USA
1st June 2011 7:59am
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Jason says...
Foxberry, these Queenlanders are talking about papaya rather than pawpaw, it's a bit of a problem but they are a strange lot up there :D
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Jason
Portland
1st June 2011 11:45am
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francis gomes says...
I have a pillbug/sowbug infestation
These bugs lives along with ants at
the roots of my plants,killing the
plants.
What can i use to eliminate these bugs?
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francis gomes
antigua and barbuda
4th June 2011 1:37am
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Julie says...
Multiguard snail pellets are pretty good at knocking off slaters.

If you have mulch around the tree trunk, remove it - slaters love mulch!

francis,when you have a particular problem, it's worth checking the search box at the top, on the right. There are several threads which deal with slaters. It sort of gets lost in a paw paw thread.
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Julie
Roleystone WA
4th June 2011 5:11pm
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Original Post was last edited: 4th June 2011 5:32pm
Rob says...
Thanks Wayne. Trying mancozeb which I mixed up and will spray weekly. Also cut of a lot of older curled up leaves that might be carying something
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Rob16
 
14th June 2011 6:53pm
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Mike says...
I have long had trouble with fungal diseases in paw paws including the black spot one.Mancozeb mixed with copper oxy helps but not against the rot.I had 1200mm in Feb and they struggled. But my solos and aussie reds are re-suckering.The fruit spotting bugs cause bunchy top and I probably spread diseases.Like many fruit sulphur,K,P Mg and particular microelements can improve fruit taste and disease resistance
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Cairns
14th June 2011 7:06pm
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Doris says...
My pawpaw leaves are covered in black spots and the abundance of fruit is all rotting as it begins to ripen. Trees are not 2 years old yet and had a magnificent crop last year. Any suggestions please?
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Doris
Caloundra Sunshine Coast
26th June 2011 3:11pm
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Wayne says...
Hello Doris
I think your trees suffer from a major Calcium and Potash deficiency which could have in turn encouraged a fungal disease.

I would suggest spreading plenty of Gypsum and Sulphate of Potash around under the trees, plenty won't hurt

A copper spray such as Copperoxichloride is good for the fungal control, sprayed weekly making sure you use a wetting agent. Without the wetting agent it will not work successfully.

I have always used the copper spray with success but, of late, I have been trying Eco-fungicide with Eco-oil as the wetting agent but can't really compare the difference yet. The downside of the copper spray is that it kills flowers such as Mangoes etc if used before they set fruit.

Some of the other guys might help out here with advice on the Eco-fungicide or suggest an alternative

A pink solution of Condy's Crystals [Potassium permanganate] sprayed on the fruit also won't hurt. You can get that from a chemist
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Wayne
 
26th June 2011 4:32pm
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Original Post was last edited: 26th June 2011 4:46pm
Doris says...
Thank you. I'll give that a go. I meant to also ask is there some connection with pawpaws and citrus? I have a young lemonade tree in very close proximity which seems to be doing okay, but I also had a young orange tree which died. Would your suggestions for the pawpaw do any harm to the citrus?
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Doris
Caloundra
27th June 2011 5:48am
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Wayne says...
It won't do it any harm Doris but is it necessary if the Lemonade tree is doing OK. Do you know what killed the Orange tree
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Wayne
 
27th June 2011 7:14am
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Solanum nigrum says...
Ah, UserID: ). You've done it again! What do you have against gypsum, etc.?
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27th June 2011 9:25am
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Wayne says...
Proven remedies are always worth a try Kert, calcium on Pawpaws is essential and gypsum is the best product I know for the job as it doesn't raise the ph level of the soil.
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Wayne
 
27th June 2011 10:32am
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Original Post was last edited: 27th June 2011 5:37pm
Mike says...
Alot of diseases result or are made worse by nutrient deficiencies or poor soil structure.Nutrient antagonisms mean that too much gypsum can reduce uptake of Fe,Mg and Mn and too much Potassium can reduce Mg.Most fertlisers are acid and over time can acidy soil and change nutrient availabilty.If those two are applied with dolomite it also corrects Mg imbalances and induced acidity. The blend of nutrients available is still less important than soil health and structure in many ways.
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Cairns
27th June 2011 4:37pm
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Mike says...
Healthy soil with humus,live soil organisms,colloids and good structure gets all the nutrients to plants better than just having the perfect nutrient blend from fertilisers.Disease resistance is related to this and pesticides can reduce soil health by affecting soil organisms.
Bisexuals often have a ratio of 60 to 20 to 20 of bisexual to female to male offspring
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Cairns
27th June 2011 4:59pm
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Wayne says...
Mike
I have seen these exact same posts from you several times before, it is obvious that you cut and paste as some of the content you post is irrelivant to the subject at hand.

I do agree with your statements about Dolomite for sure but I dissagree why you are pushing it for the problem at hand in this thread.
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Wayne
 
27th June 2011 5:51pm
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Original Post was last edited: 27th June 2011 5:55pm
Mike says...
People keep asking the same questions and I have a short memory Wayne and I never cut and paste.
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Cairns
27th June 2011 5:55pm
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Wayne says...
Mike
I do not wish to offend you at all, but did you read the question fully before making a "general" statement

I think we all understand what you are saying but you didn't offer any immediate solution to the problem
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Wayne
 
27th June 2011 6:01pm
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Peter says...
Hi all,
such a trouble in this forum whenever someone seeks help with a sick plant!
From my perspective there is nothing wrong with general statements and will help the person who asks about a problem with their plant. Mike has nice insights about fundamental biological laws, whereas Wayne shares his knowledge from a plant nutrition view. All very valid and helps the person in panic(?) to understand what could be the cause(s) of the problem. Most would probably hope for quick personal advise rather then searching the forum or other sources for someone with a similar problem.
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Peter36
 
27th June 2011 8:14pm
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Original Post was last edited: 27th June 2011 8:14pm
Mike says...
Peter, Wayne is partly correct as I have tended to read a few streams quickly and respond off the cuff while doing other things.I have been too repetitive,generic and not answered some of the easy questions.In this stream I should have pointed out that no desribed damage was from fruit spotting bugs and Qfly rarely attack paw paws.
The point I tried to make several times regarding the potash and gypsum cure-all is that it only works for a while until both cause other ntrient problems.
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Cairns
27th June 2011 9:03pm
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kertt says...
Wayne have you blasphemed my name again? Am I to not respond? Heck no!
Prithee ,that you should avail yourself of the proferred knowledge --- gypsum is useful as a soil conditioner ONLY if there is a sodic clay (look it up if you cannot understand) Potassium deficiency does not occur on clays and is rarely a problem. May I humbly suggest you not respond to things unless you have a genuine insight ,not just a general nostrum.
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sydney
28th June 2011 9:41am
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kert says...
I have deleted your dopey comment . I respond to wayne as he seems to use my name. Why don't you address your cancer cures or are you seeking something more challenging now that you have sorted cancer out.
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sydney
28th June 2011 12:44pm
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kert says...
Oh, i do like to delete you sng. Back to the cancer lab! . Who knows what you're on the cusp of discovering!.
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sydney
28th June 2011 2:09pm
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snottiegobble says...
OMG, what a nutcase! What happened to quote: " you deserve each other" kert?
I thought we were all going to be left alone.
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snottiegobble
Bunbury/Busso (smackin the middle)
28th June 2011 4:37pm
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amanda says...
This is a very user friendly link on clay soils (it's not technical and it's a small download..) It's great for an intro:

http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s1676965.htm

Gypsum is not just a 'clay breaker' - it can also used to manage sodicity too (in sandy soils as well). It's a valuable source of soluble sulphur also. It's big advantage is that it doesn't mess with pH. Yes - it can upset relations with other elements - but so can dolomite. There is also the magnesium:calcium ratio to consider here. I will see if I can find a user-friendly link regarding that... Speedy would be able to explain in a flash! Where are u Speedy!? :)
But that's why getting a laboratory soil test done is so incredibly worthwhile when u are starting out - it takes away all this guess work ;-)

When in doubt - use lots, and lots of compost - it's hard to fail with a well made compost, in the interim.

(EDIT: it's easier to explain the calcium:magnesium ratio I think!? It is commonly believed/observed that when a clay soil has more magnesium added to it - it increases it's compaction and 'sealing' qualities (ie: it crusts over) and collapses the clay structure (likely leads to increased slaking too, I guess) But - it has also been 'observed' that this is more likely to occur with an increase in pH also...Dolomite will alkalinise the pH (and add magnesium too) Gypsum does not do this. It's a safer bet in neutral to alkaline soils AND when you do not know the results of the lab testing.

(I mentioned Speedy cos he actually has this type of clay soil :)

And - to be honest - I am still trying to get my head around this one too....the calcium is good for clay soils - up to a point. After that it does just what Mike mentions. I find iron is the first stop on my radar when I have "over done it" (I use gypsum to assist with my big salinity problem...but I have sand - so a bit different...it flushes brilliantly so any negative effects are very transient)
That is my rudimentary knowledge so far... (I'd go for the compost as my first remedy in clay soils to be honest)
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
28th June 2011 7:40pm
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Original Post was last edited: 28th June 2011 8:37pm
Mike says...
Amanda that is all right and I have a weathered clay soil and used too much potash and gypsum initially.Dolomite is milder than lime and can help the accumulated acidity of the many of the regular NPK fertlisers but again as you point out it raises the ph.I reckon when in doubt mulch with blood and bone or dynamic lifter.
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Cairns
28th June 2011 9:41pm
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Mike says...
Mulch and fertlise with DL and BB I mean.
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Cairns
28th June 2011 10:58pm
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snottiegobble says...
How would mushroom compost go? I know its inclined to be on the alkaline side & has more organic content than either B&B or DL.
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snottiegobble
Bunbury/Busso (smackin the middle)
28th June 2011 11:29pm
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amanda says...
SG - I pH test everything I import. Sand is more forgiving (I find) and you can get away with a bit more.
What Mike should have done is pumped his clay with organic matter instead of chemical fert's.
Organic matter "opens" clay the same way as gypsum - but without the "chemical side effects" It is the panacea of all soil types - in varying degrees - but clay takes it in vast quantities - better than any other soil type.
Chemical fert's should only ever be a mere tweak in good clay soils with ample organics. Just my opinion tho...sand is vastly different.
The best organic matter is aerobic (hot) compost - always. From a tumbler or a turned heap - whatever - it rules (depending on the ingredients)
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
29th June 2011 3:39am
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Mike says...
Yes Amanda I was not as sold on mulch then as now and made alot of mistakes.I burnt trees with chlorides and excess amounts of fertliser generally and some types in particular and cause imbalances.I should have known better and treated use minimal amounts of 'chemically manufactured' fertlisers now.
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Cairns
29th June 2011 6:13pm
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Brendan says...
Not a great fan of dynamic lifter fert Mike, not enough P & K for me, and too much N. Best organic fert IMHO is Terra Foska Complete TE, the TE stands for trace elements.
Another good one is Super Growth, it too has trace elements :-)
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
30th June 2011 7:30am
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BJ says...
Can anyone reccomend a good organic fert that does not smell too bad?
I currently mostly use Organic Xtra and it stinks to high heaven. My wife wont let me use it near the house, unless its buried a foot down...
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Theposterformerlyknownas
Brisbane
30th June 2011 9:11am
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Original Post was last edited: 30th June 2011 9:12am
amanda says...
Seamungus is really nice stuff (a little more expensive) I can't remember it smelling too bad...but it was awhile agao now...
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
30th June 2011 5:52pm
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Mike says...
Brendan I agree that those two fertilisers are too stacked with N and have little else.It is good for leafy vegies and young trees and does improve the soil.N is more soluble and short lived than other macronutrients so sometimes more regular application, even with slow release forms is needed.I apply fertliser sparingly about 3 times a year and use a little more P,K and Mg than the rest.I am yet to find a really good and cheap organic fertiliser with micronutrients and the other macronutrients in good quantities.
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Cairns
30th June 2011 6:16pm
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Brendan says...
BJ, there was one called No-Pong from big W, don't know if it's still available tho?

Mike, hard to beat Super Growth for price. A very good fertilizer too.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
1st July 2011 8:37am
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amanda says...
Hey Brendan - who makes the Super Growth? I don't think I have seen it here - but can find out from the manufacturer. It's organic?

I can get away with Dymanic Lifter - only because I 'tweak' (cheat?) with some liquid ferts ;)
It's handy to be able to specifically treat different fruit trees at different times in their cycle, independently of each other...although I am still learning about this..most of my trees are on the venturi system - and there is no point in feeding the deciduous trees now - but my citrus have now finished harvest and are ready for a big feed..for eg.
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
1st July 2011 9:39am
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Brendan says...
Hi amanda,
Super Growth organic fertilizer is made by Katek, don't know where?
It's $32 here for a 35kg bag, stinks a bit but works well, it's slow release.
Yes, like you, I tweak Super Growth with extra P & K for certain trees/plants. Eg, garlic 'should' be fertilized with an NPK fert of 5:10:10 :-) (tomatoes like that brew too).

Forgot to mention, Katek also make a 50/50 fert (synthetic & organic), with an NPK 8:2:6, plus trace elements, it's called Super Grass, but can be used on the veggie garden/trees etc.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
2nd July 2011 7:43am
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Original Post was last edited: 2nd July 2011 8:00am
Mike says...
Brendan, that sounds like a good product and a good way to tweak it. I usually give each tree fertliser 3 x a year,at flowering and younger fruit development and reduce the nitrogen for trees with more mature fruit. Some trees I just fertilise after harvest if I think it won't impede flowwering or their rest period.
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Cairns
2nd July 2011 9:37am
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Brendan says...
Hi amanda & Mike,
Have a look at: www.katekfertilizers.com.au

Looks like it's made in Gympie Q.

(see, they do spell fertilizer with a 'Z' :-)
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
3rd July 2011 7:45am
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Original Post was last edited: 3rd July 2011 7:46am
amanda says...
Thanks Brendan :) Yup - it's a 'z' in my old, old (1960) Oxford dictionary too...? I never realised (or realized) that... lol. Is it American spelling with an 's' then?
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
3rd July 2011 3:32pm
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Mike says...
Maybe the English and Australians defied convention and changed it to an 's'and it became the norm.I have seen very old English and Australian references that use an 's'.
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Cairns
3rd July 2011 5:08pm
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snottiegobble says...
Zo ztop zpelling fertilizer uzing an S coz it lookz zilly ! :)
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snottiegobble
Bunbury/Busso (smackin the middle)
4th July 2011 7:40pm
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Brendan says...
Not bad SG! :-)
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
5th July 2011 8:12am
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Pam says...
Hi I have a paw paw tree with tiny black spots all over the leaves. Once they get the black spots, the leaves curl up and die. The tree is full of fruit and the fruit does not have spots on it although it apprears to have sap over some parts of it. It seems to be spreading all over the tree. Can anyone recommend an organic way of helping and can you still eat the fruit ?
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Brisbane
2nd August 2011 1:22pm
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Steven says...
Hi Pam, it sounds like youve got a fungal infection on your tree, i think ive got the same problem on my papaya trees. The best way to get rid of it would be with a copper fungicide. cut off the worst leaves and spray the whole tree. do this several times over say a month or two and it should pick up.

If you want something kinder, try making a solution of 1 liter of water, two teaspoons of sodium bicarbonate a drop of vegetable oil and dishwashing detergent (im not sure why you need that) the sodium bicarbonate is also a fungicide but its much weaker. however it should do the trick.

Let us know how it goes.
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Steven
Eastern Suburbs
2nd August 2011 9:31pm
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Amateur says...
Don't overlook the possiblity of the citrus moth, which is nocturnal, injecting its probosus (spelling?) into paw paw fruit during the night and spoiling them.

Also, please don't overlook the potential for a sulphur deficiency to be helping to yellow paw paw leaves.

Further, one year when our paw paw fruit was going mouldy on the tree, my partner sprayed the tree with a sulphur compound and the condition corrected itself.
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Mackay
1st September 2011 1:27am
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Amateur says...
I recommend Googling 'sulphur deficiency' and researching the importance of sulphur to plants (and humans).
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Mackay
1st September 2011 1:28am
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Gordon says...
I had the same problem and found that watering around the base of the tree was the cause so now I overhead water a lot better also have a look when snails are on the move they love pawpaw they eat the trunk and will kill the tree very quickley
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Gordon3
Pinjarra W.A
12th October 2011 10:18am
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Nick says...
My pawpaw trees seem to have some form of mosiac type disease. The leaves open and then very quickly they seem to develop a colour change and the tips get curly...the plants are not robust and healthy, any suggestions, I have looked for parasites but cannot find any, tried copper based fungicides with no success. We live on the Moreton Bay Islands and we also have citrus trees nearby as well as grapes. Any suggestions?????? Nick
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Nick1
Macleay Island
10th November 2011 11:08am
#UserID: 6100
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Gordon says...
Yeh I had the same problem I was watering them close to the trunk on a drip system now I water overhead with butterfly sprinklers and no problem
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Gordon3
Pinjarra W.A
11th November 2011 11:27pm
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Gordon says...
probably needs a good fertaliser
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Gordon3
Pinjarra W.A
11th November 2011 11:30pm
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Kelly says...
I have the same issue with my paw paw. Fantastic fruit all pitted with black spot & then mouldy rot once ripe, making inedible. The few I manage to get are super delicious. Would love a solution. 10 trees all pumping, all sufferring. Any tips?
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Kelly8
buddha22
16th June 2012 10:07am
#UserID: 7021
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Cahbundy says...
Hi,
I purchased two papayas over a month ago, and one is growing new leaves which are deformed and curly. The other one is growing normally. Both have received identical care and have been potted up and fertilized regularly with seasol. I have a suspicion that this is a virus, but could someone please advise me what to do to save the healthy one? Thanks in anticipation.
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Cahbundy
Bundaberg
29th November 2015 4:55pm
#UserID: 12814
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MIke T1 says...
Sounds like fruit spotting bugs are biting the tips and new leaves.
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MIke T1
cairns
13th December 2015 11:34am
#UserID: 10744
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southside says...
my paw paws are close to citrus. they grow wonderfully to a point then seem to go mouldy on the outside, turning black with some white chrystally things on them
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southside
TARRAGINDI
30th July 2017 9:11pm
#UserID: 16606
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