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Mango Tree Disease

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Bruce Ramsay starts with ...
I have an large Kensington Pride mango tree, approx. 12metre. In the just competed season I have had a reasonable crop of fruit however ther appears to be a disease causing the leaves to drop and the tips of new branches to die back. When pruned there is a brown discolouration in the affected branches. Q1:- If I prune back to good wood and tree bandage where cut, is there a chance that I can contain this rot? Q2:- Does anyone know what the problem its and cure?
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Bruce Ramsay
Gayndah Queensland
31st January 2008 2:42pm
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Kath says...
It sounds like anthracnose or black spot, this diseases in the mangos will be a real problem this year because of all the wet weather. Head down to your local agricultural store to see if they can recommend a treatment for you. As we are not licensed to sell chemicals I am afraid I am not allowed to recommend a solution for you.
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Kath
Cawongla
15th February 2008 10:16am
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John says...
I have the exact same problem, the leaves turn brown and die off with the branch rotting with what seems to be the bark getting stripped down to teh core. I've been cutting off branches as soon as it appears but does not seem to stop the disease.

Kath, do you know of a good agricultural store in sydney?? flowerpower and bunnings are useless as they know nothing about this sort of stuff.
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John13
Sydney
15th March 2008 9:56am
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Maryanne says...
i work @ bunnings Ashfield.
not everyone is useless!! im a student horticulturist -
you can use mancozeb to treat anthracnose. the trick is to spray more than once.
i recomend spraying every 10 days for 6 treatments. good luck.
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ashfield sydney
8th October 2008 10:38pm
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Maryanne says...
PS- if the bark is getting stripped away and you cant see it on the floor it might be a bark eating beatle/borer in which case you would use baythroid.


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ashfield
8th October 2008 10:39pm
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Wayne says...
Has anybody worked out how to spray a 12m high tree and how much Mangozeb it's going to take to do it 6 times. My Mango tree also has Anthracnose but I have the chainsaw ready to make it within reach.
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Wayne
 
10th October 2008 5:59am
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Steven says...
A dis-ease in any living thing is just that...dis-ease. Mangoes are generally quite hardy. BUT growing them in a location where they will be at-ease is very important. Warm climate, Northern aspect, good drainage etc etc. Even then, such problems will arise...my tree has signs of leaf damage(dry,brown,crispy burnt look) in areas...other parts of the tree are lush and full of growth! This is ones lot growing (sub)/tropical fruit down South.
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Steven2
Quakers Hill, Sydney
16th October 2008 10:05pm
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Jeff says...
Hi, have problem with my mango tree. The leaves are going brown and dry at the ends and then continues to die until they fall off. Also have lots of dead branches in the tree. Got heaps of fruit off it but looks very sick (see photos). Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Jeff3
Port Hedland, WA
4th December 2008 3:06pm
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Vicki says...
Jeff, we have a couple of hundred KP's planted in 4 different patches, with 4 different soil types. One patch look just the same as your pictures. We have soil and leaf analysis done and no one can tell us what we are doing wrong, did you find out how to fix yours.
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Vicki4
Northampton WA
2nd August 2009 10:18am
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amanda says...
Hi Vicki and Jeff - I hope your problem is not the same as mine - what kind of water are u irrigating with? I have same problem on mangoes n a few others. I recently had the (scheme) water tested and it's full of chloride. There is quite a bit of sodium (thus: salt) in it too.

These two cause tip burn on leaves that progresses to the margins and eventually death n drop of the leaves. It starts on the oldest leaves and progresses to young ones eventually if bad enough.

Rains will flush the soil and gypsum helps. It's worth getting your water checked (ours above WHO recommendations on a few things - I have complained to water corp - they "looking into it")
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 10:33am
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amanda says...
PS Vicki - your water is same as mine now..goes right past my house on NWC Hwy!
My soil test showed chloride levels that I am waiting for an agronomist to explain - who did your soil test?

(Jeff - your tree looks burnt on one side? have u had some bad winds? have you tried leaving the hose trickling on it overnight once or twice a week for a few weeks?)
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 10:40am
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Vicki says...
Amanda, we have our own bore and aren't on scheme water, salt was the first thing we looked into, there is practically no salt in the water. Landmark did the soil and leaf testing. And it showed nothing. We even took the reading up to Carnarvon, to get a mango grower friend have a look, he just wished his soil was as good as ours. At first we thought it was chemical burn, but no body is spraying around us. Not getting enough water is the only thing we can think off, but as you know we have had heaps of rain recently.
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Vicki4
Northampton WA
2nd August 2009 10:51am
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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - that's really interesting! As we are so close - we may b having the same problem - are u able to post a photo? I'd love to b able to compare - and I have seen this on someone elses tree in Grenough too.

You are so lucky to have good bore water! Landmark referred me to an agronomist in Perth (who specialises in Horticulture) for interpretation of the results (CSBP test) I am waiting for his input. I am a novice at these - but from what I can gather - what is in the soil is not necessarily what is "available" to the plant - but if your leaf test ok - then that really only leaves mechanical damage (wind)/water stress type issues I would have thought?

Are u close to ocean at all?

My studies on this have turned up deficiencies of magnesium or potassium in the main, with calcium a second option.

I have been giving my 3 KP's a good soaking as I still don't think they are getting enuf' water. They used to flood irrigate in Carnarvon! Don't know if they still do (have an ex-mangoe grower friend from there too!)

Stay in touch won't u - we may be able to get to the bottom of it - and it would b helpful for others. :)

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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 11:09am
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Vicki says...
Will take some photo's later today. We have also thought wind, they only get the southerly, today is blowing easterly, and the trees that get hammered with the easterly aren't affected. Last summer we gave them plenty of water and they improved, but with winter rains, stopped watering, put them on for about 4 hours yesterday. And we are right in town, so not getting ocean winds or salt, we fertilise with NPK blue and Urea, we alternate, our friend in Cvon also gave us a bag of what he uses there, but not sure what that is made up off. We also spray for anthracnose, at the moment we do this every 3 weeks. Our trees are from 10 - 12 years old. It has really only been this bad since we went into drought, what would that be the last 5/6 years. None of the other trees are affected like this. The chain saw will be sharpened up if they don't start improving. It is good talking to some one close by, who understands the wind, water and soil of this area. When I have phone ag dept ususally get told to phone Kununurra who's soil, wind and water probs are nothing like here. There was a great guy in Cvon but he retired and only does consult work now, but what he didn't know wasn't worth knowing
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Vicki4
Northampton WA
2nd August 2009 12:12pm
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amanda says...
Hi again Vicki - what was the soil salt level on your results? (mine "Intermediate") Did u fertilise before you turned retic off? When did u fert last? Have u put anything else on them at all? Are the affected trees in any way different as to slope, at end of retic line, front-line sun/wind?

I'm thinking of a temporary fertiliser "salts" (not NaCl) build up combined with inadequate water that may have caused a reverse-osmosis (ie: water coming out of the plant due to high salts in soil and low salts in plants)

I tend to fert in winter mainly cos it's cool for me :) and the rain is helpful for when i renovate the mulch. I have been wondering tho' about something Speedy mentioned about watering thru' the rain (initially) as salt gets washed back into the root zone (by the rain) causing this kind of damage. The idea is to flush it away into the subsoil. (Perhaps my trees are getting a double-whammy!?)

When I say "salt" - this can also be fertiliser salts.

Perhaps with the extra dry conditions it would be preferable to fert little and often, and water well.

I will ask agronomist too (Jeff - I have posted your photo to him too)
Maybe we could ask Speedy too.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 3:50pm
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Vicki says...
Me again, ok have done some pics, the salt content in the soil was minimal, we don't over fertilise, and when we do we don't give them heaps at once, we gradually do it. And we look at the trees to see whether we think they need fertilising, ie the colour of the tree, pale green rather than dark green. And as for a pattern there is not one, there can be a crap tree and next to it can be 4 good ones and other way round. 20 feet away is a different patch and they are beautiful looking trees. We had previously mulched the trees, it is just about disolved at the moment.
Vicki
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Vicki4
Northampton WA
2nd August 2009 5:04pm
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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - well that kind of blows my theory!! :) I will send your pic down to Aaron Chapman as well. There must be an answer to all of this!?
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 7:27pm
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Vicki says...
Aaron was the agronomist that came and visited us, he actually told us it was salt, but there was little salt (around 400 per million grains) in the water, and then why are they the only ones suffering if you look 20 ft away the trees are going mad,the pic taken is if you look to the right are the sick trees and to the left are as healthy as any thing, same water same fertiliser. So has us stumped
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Vicki4
Northampton WA
2nd August 2009 8:18pm
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amanda says...
Yea - see what u mean Vicki! I honestly don't know - my only suggestions are to check/measure the output of the drippers/sprayers (use bucket or such) to make certain they (sick ones) are getting the same amount of water compared to the others.

I have divined the water running under our block and it's quite obvious where it is and isn't (easy to do yourself) I do wonder tho' if the ground water is suffering with this drought - it can make all the difference to the survival of some trees.

It's a long shot but maybe the guys on the right are 'missing out' due to levels dropping. I know there has been problems with this in Northampton and my area too.

You may want to try a slow trickle on one sick tree - leave overnight a cupla times a week for a few weeks and see what happens to new growth and the presently un-burnt growth. It could b a worthwhile experiment.

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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 8:43pm
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amanda says...
Also Vicki - what kind of drippers/sprayers are u using? are they pressure-compensated one's?
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 8:48pm
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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - me again! ... I have done some more googling but keep turning up the same stuff (apart from salinity)...magnesium or potassium deficiency.... also of interest is that excess nitrogen is antagonistic to potassium uptake - giving similar symptoms. It might pay to drop the Urea from the sick ones for awhile?

This is something I have copied out of one site:

Irrigation management and drainage are important factors in minimising salt build-up in the root zone. Salting of orchards in inland irrigation areas can occur when the salt-laden groundwater table rises towards the tree roots. Another cause is the concentration of salt into the ‘dry bone’ areas of the rows, particularly unwetted areas under the trees where furrow irrigation is practised. Faulty distribution of water from spray irrigation systems because of low pressure, strong winds, or too few spray heads, is another way that salt accumulates in localised areas.

I am really keen to see if your drippers/sprayers are distributing evenly and same volume. I won't post my e-mail here - but maybe thru Correy (webmaster) we could get in touch? It would b great to solve this problem as we 'know' what we are on about with our conditions here ;)

I really do believe there is a 'burn' mechanism of some sort involved tho' - either 'salt' or lack of water etc...

Sorry about long posts - I just haven't come across anyone (yet) with the same problem. I am tenacious if nothing else and determined to sort this out...!
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
3rd August 2009 12:30am
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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - I popped into ThinkWater in Gero 2day to ask about bore water...the conversion table converts 400 grains/gallon to nearly 7,000 mg/L (or ppm)total dissolved solids. To compare with Gero town water at 1,000 mg/L. The upper limit for humans is 1,100 and horses (for eg) 5,500. Unfortunately plants don't have kidneys so accumulate salts in the bark and leaves.

It may be really worthwhile getting a water testing kit ($66) from them and finding out what exactly is in your bore water (as 400 grains is equivalent to 20% seawater!)

I realise that some trees ok - but if the drippers/sprayers are not working properly etc then this could make all the difference..also if soil has become water repellant under the sick one's etc.

I hope this is of some use..I can't think what else it could be? Did u get the actual sick leaves tested?
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
3rd August 2009 6:43pm
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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - I hope u r still out there? See above - but also I found this amazing document - it's a bit heavy in some parts but there is a few gems of info in there (see section 4) Mangoes are salt sensitive like citrus (and almost all fruit trees) - so the leaf anlaysis should translate.

http://www.fao.org/docrep/003/t0234e/T0234E03.htm
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
6th August 2009 10:16am
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John says...
I have a mango tree that is affected by a black fungus. I have tried many things both so far nothing has worked. The leaves get big black spots and the fruit also get black spots and drop off. This year I am trying eco oil. We will see.
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Sydney
8th August 2009 3:46pm
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amanda says...
Hi John - see beginning of this topic. Eco oil not for fungus - use bordeaux/kocide.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
9th August 2009 9:33am
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amanda says...
Hi Jeff n Vicki...Mum reminded me 2day about her mangoe tree outside their bathroom - they had the shower water diverted to the plant permanently..It grew at an amazing rate (in high wind in Carnarvon)...and fruited really well. (was an R2E2).
Grey water is pretty low quality - so maybe our problems are just a lack of water? I am going to up the ante on mine this summer..will post pics one day!
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
9th August 2009 6:06pm
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nike64 says...
I have a mango tree which is 1/2 a year old and it looks bad. What disease does it have and what is a solution?

P.S. I originally thought it was a iron deficiency

P.P.S. Has it got something to do with my location, season etc.

P.P.P.S. All the new leaves/ shoots have turned black at the tip!
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
14th August 2009 7:21pm
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nike64 says...
It is a Kensington pride and I bought it Laverton Market.
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
14th August 2009 7:25pm
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JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE says...
Hi nike64,

I think the cold weather affects your mango tree. Spring is just around the corner so hopefully your tree will grow back with new shoots coming out.

If I was you I would give it plenty of dynamic lifter in mid Spring to make it grow stronger before the next winter comes.

All the best.
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JUJUBE FOR SALE
Melbourne
14th August 2009 7:58pm
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amanda says...
Hi nike64 - your tree looks nitrogen deficient.... try giving it a bit of manure or fertiliser - not too much as the weather is too cold for any real growth yet and water well - clear the weeds around the tree a bit wider than you have now. If u haven't added any nitrogen source at planting then that woodchip may be causing nitrogen deficiency.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
15th August 2009 9:17am
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nike64 says...
O.K. I got rid of the mulch and got rid of more weeds. My dad thought I should use grass clippings instead of the wood and I discovered some Thrive Soluble Plant Food with 19.31 percent Nitrogen. Also we have some compost. Would all this be ok?

(I know this is off topic but Im also going to grow another tree from seed and I need a germination method cause last year it failed!)
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
15th August 2009 12:20pm
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nike64 says...
Heres some close-ups of the leaves!
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
15th August 2009 1:16pm
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John says...
I went to a nursery but I could not find any bordeaux/kocide but I found a product called Mancozeb.It seems to say all the right things on the label. Is it ok? I will try it for the comming season but I am concerned the tree may already be too diseased. If it doesnt work perhaps next year I could heavily prune the tree to get rid of most of the disease and ensure I spray all new foliage.
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John I
Sydney
16th August 2009 1:13pm
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Julie says...
John,it depends if you are trying to grow organically. If so, this would be a no-no. Mancozeb is a commonly used fungicide for this purpose.

Mangoes are notorious for anthracnose, which is what your symptoms sound like, though I think there some more resistant varieties around.

Anthracnose can be caused by wet conditions around flowering and fruit set. You will have to spray every four weeks till harvest.
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Roleystone WA
16th August 2009 3:22pm
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John says...
What about when the tree gets fruit. Can I continue to spray the tree with Mancozeb?
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John I
Sydney
17th August 2009 12:19pm
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Julie says...
'Till harvest' means up to when you pick the fruit, so yes, I guess so. From 'What Garden Pest or Disease is That?':

'The fungus lives in dead parts of the plant, and spores are spread from these areas to leaves, fruit and flowers by water splash.

Prune off all dead plant parts. Spray with Mancozeb at the rate of 2g per litre every week while the blossoms are on the tree, then every four weeks until harvest. If weather is dry when the plant blossoms, fewer sprays may be required'.

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Roleystone WA
17th August 2009 6:17pm
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amanda says...
Most mangoes are actually dipped in anti-anthracnose stuff after picking and b4 going to market...
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
17th August 2009 9:30pm
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JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE says...
Hi Amanda,

Do you know how to get rid of the anti-anthracnose stuff before eating those mangoes?
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JUJUBE FOR SALE
Melbourne
17th August 2009 9:46pm
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amanda says...
Hi Jujube!...u don't eat the skin so all 'ok' - give them a mild soapy water wash n rinse if u really want to get rid of it first - I do this with any fruit I buy that we eat with the skin on.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
17th August 2009 9:58pm
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JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE says...
Hi Amanda,

Many thanks for your advice, I am very much appreciated. I will do that before I eat fruit.
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JUJUBE FOR SALE
Melbourne
17th August 2009 10:10pm
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Paul says...
Hi,

I have a problem with a mango tree that is few years old. Currently in a pot, looking to put into the ground very soon if possible. The stem looks ok, although it doesn't sit very firmly in the pot. We've had a fair bit of wind and rain in the last few weeks, but this problem has been around for a month or so now.

All the leaves seem to be affected, turning brown/black and dying... there are some black marks on the branches too.

I've been looking at the photos posted here so far, but none seem to quite match what i'm seeing.

Is this anthracnose? Should I be removing all the leaves and cutting back the branches? (there may not be much left!!)

thanks very much,
Paul

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Paul21
Perth
18th August 2009 4:56pm
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amanda says...
Hi Paul...if it were my tree I would bin it and the soil it's in...and then plant a new, healthy tree straight into the ground. It will take a lot of effort to make the one above into a healthy tree again (and a lot of chemicals too)
It's an advanced fungal infection (probly due to waterlogging - did u have a dish under the pot?) and the soil may transmit the disease to your garden too. But - lets see what others think..? :)
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
18th August 2009 5:21pm
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Paul says...
I double-checked, it does *not* have a dish under it (I previously said it did, i've corrected this post).

Such heartbreak, i've been watching this tree grow *very* slowly for over a year now... the place I got it from has closed down... where would I get another mango tree in Perth?
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Paul21
Perth
18th August 2009 7:28pm
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Original Post was last edited: 18th August 2009 7:31pm
Cuong says...
Hi Paul,

Wandilla on 811 Welshpool Rd Wattle Grove

or

Tassie1trees on 1072 Great Northern Hwy Baskerville

both have a good range, what mango variety are you after?
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Cuong
Wilson, Western Australia
18th August 2009 8:52pm
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Paul says...
Hi Cuong,

The ideal mango variety for me, is one that will give me mangos and won't die!

I'm new at this, so ideally I'd like to get *any* success.

Would it be ok to post up pictures of my other fruit trees, and see what you guys think? eg, I have a custard apple that won't grow up.

cheers
Paul
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Paul21
Perth
18th August 2009 9:50pm
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Cuong says...
Paul,

here is a Bowen/Kensington Pride Mango I bought last week at Tassie1trees for $35 (Wandilla has the as well $37.95)

KP is a very nice variety that is commercially grown throughout Australia

the trees that tass1 are very healthy

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Cuong
Wilson, Western Australia
19th August 2009 12:25am
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Vicki says...
Hi Amanda,
My computer crashed and have just got it back, have just gone thru all old posts. We are thinking the sad trees must be water deprived, although these trees got more water than others, it mustn't been getting enough. And because they were not the healthiest, when the winter diseases came in they copped the lot. Hubby has been spraying them for anthracnose and giving them a bit more than the other trees, still looking a bit sadder than the others. Will see how they go when the weather improves.
Vicki
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Vicki4
Northampton
27th August 2009 11:19am
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amanda says...
No prob's Vicki - wondered where u got to!? In your pic above it looks like grass clippings around the tree?

Also - did u dig around the plants to check soil not water repellant?

It's bloody frustrating isn't it!? I am having trouble getting my mangoes up n running too...something just not right here...and yet other fruit trees doing really well. Goodluck hey...if u crack the problem let me know please!! :)
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
27th August 2009 10:30pm
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Vicki says...
Hello again, not grass at bottom of the trees but barley mulch. Soil around trees is nice and damp, have dug down fair way and moisture getting there. A couple of years ago we were having water probs (not much there) but put a new bore down and now have plenty, but when the worry was there we cut back on the watering, which may have caused trees to go back wards. But the past couple of years they have been getting the water, although hubby says they still need more, but still only that patch of about 75 trees. All other trees looking good, a little bit of anthracnose but it is to be expected with the wind and cold. But we will wait until spring see how they go. We get a magazine from the Mango Assoc, there was an article about another disease which is similar but they didn't say what to use on it. Will check out there web site and see if any thing on it.
vicki
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Vicki4
Northampton
28th August 2009 2:00am
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amanda says...
Hey Vicki - the guys at CRT (Great Northern Rural) were telling me that unless the bore water under 130 grains - then u can get a build up of salts over a period of time - maybe worth filing away for next years break-of-season... and "water thru" the first rains on a few trees to see if it makes a difference. I am going to try this next year for my trees (it's gonna be hard tho'... it goes against everything we are told to do in order to conserve water...!?)

One scientific source I read also talked about salt being stored in the bark and tissues of the trees...all ok until tree water stressed - then tree suddenly 'burns'. Trees will take up sodium in excess if there is low potassium also. I also read info on lack of nitrogen aggravating sodium uptake.

This may not be your problem - but it's interesting info I guess. Your trees look really healthy apart from the burning - but I can also add that I have had problems with anthracnose all thru my grevillias over the last 2 yrs...(I don't treat it as they don't seem bothered by it as yet) According to Kerry at Yetna - it's been a common problem lately.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
28th August 2009 6:39pm
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Vicki says...
I mentioned the book that we get thru Mango assos, got new one on Friday and they have an article on exactly what our trees are looking like. It is called Bacterial necrosis. There was article on it in a previous magazine but didn't say what the cure was, this one trials were done in WA just north of Perth (Gin Gin?). About to do some googling. Will let you know.
Vicki
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Vicki4
Northampton
29th August 2009 10:50am
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amanda says...
That's great Vicki! Thanks heaps - I will google too.... haven't read about that b4 (not in association with mangoes anyway) The Ag dept will probably be very keen to look at samples of your leaves for free if u send some down to Perth:

Pest and Disease Information Service:
1800 084 881

They were very thorough with my passionfruit virus specimens - even sent them off the Curtin Uni for anlaysis.

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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
29th August 2009 11:07am
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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - I have started a new topic "Mangoe bacterial necrosis" with some links...so it's easy to find again in future.. :)
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
30th August 2009 12:38pm
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Vicki says...
Have gone on to this page and have replied. Going to scan an article and post it on. L.ooks like I am not the only one with this
Vicki
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Vicki4
Northampton
31st August 2009 11:10am
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amanda says...
This is a pic of my tree - it's quite different - I am happy that this is salt burn on mine - the growing tips are not showing any signs of disease either...phew!
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
31st August 2009 5:03pm
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Michael says...
Hi All,
I live in suburbian Sydney and all the mango trees are in full bloom right now . Last year my tree only produce 3 mangoes from such a large tree. I did remember is was a very wet summer last year. To all the mango expert out there is there anything we can do to get higher mango yields ? ie like adding certain trace elements to the water,fertilise at certain times or maybe just increase the water supply .Please help ?
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Wakeley
31st August 2009 10:44pm
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Ellen says...
Michael,

last year I got plenty of mangoes too, but due to that last hail storm that we've got, it destroyed 4/5 of my fruits lot.
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Smithfield
1st September 2009 12:49am
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nike64 says...
I just bought another kensington at Laverton Market but this one is way more mature. Here are some pics:
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
6th September 2009 2:35pm
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John says...
It is only early spring and my mango tree is already producing flowers. I remember reading somewhere it may be a good idea to break them off and they will grow again later in the season. Anyone want to comment.
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John I
Castle Hill NSW
9th September 2009 12:36pm
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Wayne says...
I wouldn't worry about them John, all mango trees are early this year, we already have fruit on the market from the NT.
The tree will reject them if things aren't right. I don't know where Castle Hill is but northern NSW should harvest around February I think. Take about three months off that and that's when you tree should be flowering.
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
9th September 2009 5:48pm
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John says...
Castle Hill is about 40 mins drive north west of CBD Sydney.
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John I
Castle Hill NSW
10th September 2009 12:10pm
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Michael says...
Hi John,
I'm about 25 minutes from where you are and my mangoe trees are also in full bloom. Even the ones in pots are starting to bloom as well.It seems earlier than usual but I'm just leaving it and hoping for the best,
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Michael
Wakeley
10th September 2009 8:56pm
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Michael says...
My mango trees blooming
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Michael
Wakeley
10th September 2009 9:06pm
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Wayne says...
And they look bloomin good Michael, no sign of any problems so you get to eat mangoes by the look of it
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
11th September 2009 7:02am
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John says...
I cant believe how healthy all the leaves look. Not even one hint of fungus.
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John I
Castle Hill NSW
11th September 2009 6:36pm
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John I. says...
Well I have sprayed Mancozeb once a week for 6 weeks. I will now move to once a month until harvest. Its starting to look promising. Of course some of the damaged branches and leaves are still there but there is a lot of new growth and flowers are really coming out now. There has not been a lot of rain so the spray has been very effective. I will keep you posted from time to time.
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John I
Castle Hill NSW
19th September 2009 3:00pm
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nike64 says...
My big mango tree is flowering and the small one has 2 lots of new shoots
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
10th October 2009 8:26pm
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Michael says...
I'm not sure if this would work but for every mango branch with tiny fruits on it I only leave 5 fruits at the most. I figured that if there are less fruits on the branch then the remaining ones will have a better chance to grow bigger and stronger.Last year I have so many tiny mangoes on each branch and they all grew to around a plum size and just drop off. Only a few survived into full mango sizes.
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Michael
Wakeley
14th October 2009 12:58pm
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nike64 says...
Heres spring pics of my mango trees
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
16th October 2009 7:58pm
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nike64 says...
Do flies pollinate mango trees
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
16th October 2009 7:59pm
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Wayne says...
"Do flies pollinate mango trees"

Yes, I don't have bees here so they do a good job
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
16th October 2009 8:44pm
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Kevin says...
Hey guys,

I recently bought a Rosigold mango tree from a nursery in Orlando. It is about a meter tall and a year and a half old according to the nursery. I noticed it has some black spots on some of the leaves and stem. I was wondering if you could tell me if you think they are indicative of some kind of fungus/disease/pest. I uploaded some pictures to a website to save you time downloading them. You can click on them to see them in high resolution.

The tree is currently located in Tampa.

website: http://kevinsmangotree.blogspot.com/

Thanks so much for your help!!!!
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Kevin5
Tampa, FL
24th October 2009 4:12am
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Brendan says...
Hi Kevin,
Being in a pot it's hard to say, but my guess is anthracnose. Without spraying (?), I'd apply some gypsum to the pot and water it in. If you can get liquid gypsum, even better.

Maybe a good time to re-pot it, making sure you remove ALL the old potting mix. Use a premium potting mix and a pot 1/3 larger.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
24th October 2009 7:40am
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Claudine says...
Hiya, i have a mango tree i bought in k-mart nursery in Karratha W.A. 2004,it didnt have a tag telling me the type, so im unsure.it was around 50cm tall,when i bought it.it was just thin and bendy for a long time and reaching for the sun,i moved back to perth in 2006 and cut the trunk in half, hoping for the best,and this made it branch finally! and with water only really,i have just started to give it a bit more 'love'in the last year, with a bit of liquid trive.it has been going really well since, still in a pot, but now is browning on the edges of the leaves and has started to get dark purple/black branches,starting to flower,but dont think they are looking too good and wont stay on for long. it has never given me fruit and as i LOVE MANGO it would be fantastic to actually grow my own! Please help, it is my pride and joy, id hate for it to die.
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Claudine
Australia
1st November 2009 1:14pm
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Wayne says...
Hello Claudine, I would say that 99.999% it is root bound in the pot, it needs to be planted out.
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
1st November 2009 5:56pm
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Claudine says...
thanks for the reply wayne! im not too sure that that is the problem as i did actually re pot it about 6months ago and the root system was actually not too big, it still had plenty of room in the pot it was in previously too,and this one is much larger...ill add some pictures, maybe that might give you a better idea. the pictures of the leaves that are on 'Pauls' post are acctually similar and ive just discovered little white bugs with lots of little hairy legs around the new growth, so maybe it needs a spray of some sort??? might be a few things wrong??
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Claudine
Australia
1st November 2009 9:11pm
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Original Post was last edited: 12th November 2009 12:37am
Wayne says...
Well, there you go Claudine, I was wrong. Pic 2 suggests the tree is wanting fertiliser, I'm now using Terra Foska TE. The rest of the pics suggest that the tree is suffering badly with Anthracnose, a common Mango tree problem. Because the tree is flowering spray with Mancozeb and once the flowering has ceased and the fruit sets add copper oxichloride to the mix, spray once a week using a wetting agent. I have resorted to using an un-scented liquid soap because I can't get a wetting agent in small quantities here.

Perhaps spread a little dolomite around under the tree as well. The little white bugs are aphids, you can get a spray at the nursery or hardware store to kill them.
Cheers
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
2nd November 2009 7:33am
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Claudine says...
Thankyou very much Wayne! ill get onto all those things today and heres hoping my tree gets better!let you know how i go with it! cheers!
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Claudine
Singleton W.A
2nd November 2009 11:17am
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Jeff says...
Hi Vicki/Amanda,

I still havent found out what causes the issue with the mango tree. I ended up giving it a huge trim with chainsaw and upped the water to it but no real results. The tree was ravaged from cyclone George a few years ago on the one side, it never flowered/fruited after that(only on that side, rest of tree was fine). Have since moved house and inherited 2 mango trees that are significantly smaller than the original one and you guessed it....both have the same symptoms as the first. They are only a couple of years old so that maybe sinks the buildup of salt etc theory. I water each afternoon with sprinkler and then by hand but leaves are still dying from the tip upwards.
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Jeff3
Port Hedland
3rd November 2009 1:29pm
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Wayne says...
Read this Jeff
"Q - we have a mango tree with yellow spots and dead or dying leaves the tree is roughly 15yrs old and 4 metres high ---A - The description fits Sour Sap usually caused by a Potash deficiency in the soil. Apply a complete fertilizer high in Potash and Phosphorous. TERRAFOSKA TE or Crop king 77. one clenched handful per sq metre under the canopy every two months"

Does that help,
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
3rd November 2009 2:13pm
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Claudine says...
Hi wayne! i have sprayed mancozeb on my tree all over the trunk, and tops side of the leaves till they were dripping...wasnt sure if i have to do the underside of the leave too??? and how long till i spray them with that again? should i see results soon?
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Claudine
Singleton W.A
3rd November 2009 7:27pm
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Wayne says...
Spray all over the leaves once a week Claudine, if I have it right you shoild notice an improvement in two weeks or there abouts.
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
3rd November 2009 9:16pm
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Claudine says...
great thanks!
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Claudine
Singleton W.A
3rd November 2009 10:53pm
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Jeff says...
Thanks Wayne...will give it a go and let you know if it cures the problem.
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Jeff3
Port Hedland
4th November 2009 12:16pm
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amanda says...
Hi Jeff, a horticulturalist had a look at mine and said salt straight away. He also said that mangoes (and macadamias) are highly salt sensitive. He said it is being seen increasingly up the WA coast and is likely due to the lower rainfall etc etc.

You should get your water tested - I was shocked to see how bad our scheme water was for sodium and chloride - severe.

What you can do is give them a liberal dose of gypsum and then give them a heap of water to flush out the sodium. This needs to be done more often in dry periods. Try to practice deep long soakings INfrequently rather than lots of smaller waterings. The long soaks push the salt out past the root zone and flush better.

Feed your tree little and often as this helps to displace the sodium from the soil. Choose low salt fertilisers. Liquid feed such as Powerfeed is good for this.

PS - added a pic of my mangoe with new growth (fingers crossed!?) and my macadamia.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
7th November 2009 10:34am
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Original Post was last edited: 7th November 2009 11:00am
Claudine says...
HI THERE WAYNE,

I HAVE GIVEN MY MANGO TREE ANOTHER SPRAY ALL OVER WITH THE MANCOZEB PLUS, AND SPREAD SOME OF THE LIME AROUND THE BASE AS YOU SAID, I COULDNT FIND ANY OF THE FERTILIZER YOU SUGGESTED...THE TERRAFOSKA T.E I HAVE FOUND A STONE FRUIT GRANUALS WITH A WETTING AGENT IN IT IN MY SHED THAT I MUST HAVE BOUGHT ALONG THE WAY AND HAVE PUT SOME AROUND THE BASE ALSO....WATERED IT IN WELL.
HOPEFULLY IT SHOULD BE LOOKING A BIT BETTER ASAP!
ANOTHER QUESTION FOR YOU :)
SHOULD I BE REMOVING ANY OF THE DAMAGED LEAVES?
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Claudine
Singleton W.A.
7th November 2009 7:01pm
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Wayne says...
"SHOULD I BE REMOVING ANY OF THE DAMAGED LEAVES?"

Nope, leave them be Claudine
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
7th November 2009 8:05pm
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nike64 says...
I have finally got tiny mangoes
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Altona
8th November 2009 11:53am
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Jeff says...
Hi Amanda,

have tried the potash on main tree and seeing some new growth that looks healthy...guess time will tell. The scheme water here wouldnt suprise me if its worse than yours. Need a pack of wetta soil just to get shampoo on the hair here let alone what we are feeding our plants. Our water is so hard here once you have the calcium spots on any car windows you cant get it off with a razor blade, have just retic'd the whole yard and will see what regular watering does but looks good so far. Have attatched some pics of both trees and you can see the difference from the old to new growth. Got a whole 6 mangoes from two trees. Maybe next year.
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Port Hedland
8th November 2009 7:38pm
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amanda says...
Hey Jeff - looking good! I can highly recommend the liquid Gypsum. It's a bit expensive but u use very little. I got a 20L container of Gypflo for about $150 but I only needed to use 370ml for my 80 odd trees. Works out to about 2.5ml per sqm in my sandy soil. It works much faster than granular stuff and this is important in the dry season and in emergencies.
It may come in smaller sizes - try googling Gypflo.

The problem with "hard" water is that it excerbates salinity issues by increasing the sodium absorbtion ratio (SAR) - try some googling to find out more - but if you are really keen on gardening then a water test better (mine cost $66) a good investment.
Be very careful of chemical fert's - if u use them - only very dilute!

Organic matter is great but too much can be a problem as it tends to hold up the salts in the topsoil and then you require more flushing to get them to the sub-soil. So use mulch etc in moderation. I find chunky mulches the best - one's that keep the soil shaded and protected but allow the water to pass thru'.
Liquid feeding is the most helpful in our conditions though - which I know doesn't help build soil fertility in the long run - but what can u do!? It's a double edged sword in our type of environment.
I build up my organics in the rainy season - thus using the rain to help build the soil and then leave it alone during the dry/drought.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
11th November 2009 10:41am
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kert says...
Mango is not salt sensitive >see www.echo.org for a table listing salt sensitivities .
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sydney
12th November 2009 3:28pm
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kert says...
woops > mango is listed as sensitive to salt and the site is www.echotech.org
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sydney
12th November 2009 3:36pm
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amanda says...
That's a pretty comprehensive list kert. Although one needs to consider their environment and soils when evaluating the effects of salinity on a type of plant.

For example if you have sandy soils - the salts are leached more readily than in clay soils. Some plants also need humidity and others cannot tolerate wind - so many factors at play.

A fleshy leafed plant will loose more water when the wind is hot and dry - this is not so good if they are already salt sensitive, as the plants dehydrate more readily and then the salts do their damage.

Claudines plant is suffering from salinity problems also. Putting hard core fert's into the potting mix will likely make things worse, unless she waters very regularly - as soon as that potting mix gets too dry the plant will burn.

In my conditions - passionfruit do really well (but listed as sensitive) - so all things are not equal.

It's more important to be able to recognise the symptoms of salinity damage in your own environment than refer to a list (no offense) and then take action (which may be as drastic as not growing that type of plant :-( or it may just need careful management)
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
14th November 2009 11:13am
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amanda says...
Hi Jeff - heres B4 n after pics of my jaboticabas (note burnt margins tee guys are very salt sensitive) I did gypflo and big water flush then calcium nitrate and then trace elements (I would normally try organic methods first - but this was an emergengcy) did this about 3 weeks ago.
I have only done once so far - but he improvement is quite noticable.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
14th November 2009 7:56pm
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M Nash says...
I have three very large mangoes that produce thousands of fruit but they drop when almost full size.
They are too big to cut right back and they are a wind brake.
Can I spray the lower branches or what ever branches I can get to, And get fruit off those? Letting the top of the trees remain diseased? If so, What spray would you recommend?
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MNash1
Terranora
23rd November 2009 10:41am
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Claudine says...
hi there amanda! i have just noticed you have written about my tree :) as you can proberbly tell...im not a great gardener...but im trying! my tree is looking alot better after spraying it with the mancozeb plus solution....has some new growth...but do you think it also has a salt problem? what do you suggest the best thing for my tree would be? you seem to know alot about mangoes :) you wouldnt happen tp know what type of mango tree i could have? it has a graft and i bought it from kmart nursery in karratha, but it didnt have a tag :( any help is greatly appriciated guys! thanks
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Claudine
Singleton W.A.
23rd November 2009 5:17pm
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amanda says...
Hi Claudine, sorry about the delay. I don't really know much about mangoes - but I battle salinity issues on a daily basis. Managing a tree like a mangoe in a pot is going to require a fair bit of work - you would be much better off putting it in the ground to be honest.

Salinity issues are not just due to common "salt" - but it's by far the worst especially if your water is salty and you are coastal. Some fertilisers contain the wrong kinds of "salts" also. When in doubt go for liquid seaweed. Use little and often and pour over the plant also - it will help with any bugs also.

My mangoe trees really loathe the coastal wind here too. Try to keep yours out of it. If you can shade the actual pot it would be good too. The black plastic will cook the roots as it heats up in the sun.

You may be able to tell what kind of mangoe it is when it fruits. They have a lot of R2E2's up that way?
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
11th December 2009 11:16am
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Brad says...
Amanda - are you able to use any tricks to increase the summer humidity at least before the dry wind takes over? e.g. is there space for a support carrying some hessian that can get wet down in the morning? If the base is in a bucket of water, it will suck up moisture for quite a while. This especially helps while the mango gets established
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Brad2
Como, Perth
11th December 2009 12:44pm
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amanda says...
Hi Brad.. I have micro-sprayers under the trees and can use these either under low pressure (as a "dripper") or high pressure as a sprayer. I put all that kelp under the trees over winter - it soaks up quite a bit of water and then slowly dries out during the day - maybe this would work in a similar way?

To be honest - I am terrified of the water bill! Last summer cost $2,000 and it really hurt :-(

We are starting to look at land down near Busselton region... Somewhere there is lotsa water and trees - and it's cooler n greener - any ideas anyone on some good locations for 10 - 20 acres?
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
12th December 2009 7:05pm
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Brad says...
I sympathise on the water bill. I'm a (small) backyard gardener and my mango tips come from my dad-in-law, but if you can increase the humidity in summer, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. I've no idea how the kelp would go - but dad swears by the hessian trick.

Good luck with the venture down south. Maybe around Capel?
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Brad2
Como, Perth
14th December 2009 1:03pm
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amanda says...
Ta Brad - I will give it a go. We had 42 degrees the other day and I gave the trees a "mulch spraying" - they came thru fine. Looks like I will just have to bite the bullet and use the water when it gets that hot.

I was thinking around Metricup way - good soil n water...but it's been years since I have been down south..hope I can handle the cold again!? :-)
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
15th December 2009 11:32am
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John I says...
Well I am very disappointed. I have regularly sprayed my mango tree with mancozeb and I have watered and fertilized the tree. The fruit came out and reached various sizes some as big as a golf ball and now they are all falling off again. I can only assume the fungal disease(anthracnose)is still the problem. Perhaps when all the fruit is gone I will take to it with a chainsaw. At least that will give it all new branches. It could be the tree is too far gone.
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John I
Castle Hill
20th December 2009 11:00am
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Brendan says...
Hi John,
The secret in spraying mango and avocado trees for Anthracnose, is the 'wetting agent'!

The guru here tells us to use 30g copperoxy chloride, 30g mancozeb, 60ml of a 'good' wetting agent, to 4.5litres water. Spray weekly for 3 weeks BEFORE the flowers open, stop spraying when the flowers are open. When the fruit forms, start spraying weekly again for 3 weeks. After that spray once a month untill harvest.

Works for me.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
21st December 2009 10:30am
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John I says...
Thanks for that info Brendan. forgive my ignorance but what would I use as a wetting agent. At present I mix the Mancozeb with water.
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John I
Castle Hill
7th January 2010 10:45am
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Wayne says...
That's where you went wrong John, a wetting agent is a must as is to spray with the two together.

Because a wetting agent in small quantities is hard to find where we are I use a "Liquid hand and body soap" called "Wild Snow" which comes in a 5L container for around $23.oo, much cheaper than a wetting agent [and I use it as well because I am allergic to fragrant soap]. Make sure if you use liquid soap that it is fragrant free. You should be able to get it from any wholesaler who supplies cleaning gear.

Brendan will know more about wetting agents than I do. I kept the spray up to our tree last year and had an excellent crop compared to previous years.

My tree had chronic anthracnose but after only a month or two of spraying with the mancozeb/copperoxichloride spray it was clear, I was surprised with the result. I don't think I will need to spray until later in the year now.
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
7th January 2010 11:21am
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John I says...
I have been having trouble getting a fragrance free liquid soap. I am told that the eucaliptus liquid soap is natural so it should be ok? any comment?
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John I
Castle Hill
8th January 2010 11:42am
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John I says...
BTW the way Brendon,you do realise the dose you are suggesting is about 3 times the strength recommended on the package. Mancozeb says 18grams for 9 litres of water. Copper o says 5 grams for 2 ltrs of water. Can you confirm please.
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John I
Castle Hill
8th January 2010 12:23pm
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Wayne says...
You can only try the eucaliptus liquid soap John, I've not heard of it. Brendan has told me that Bunnings have a wetting agent but I couldn't find it in the one here. They have plenty of soil wetting agents ofcourse.

I use about 50grms of each to 9L of water + the wetting agent, Agral is a wetting agent

I hope you can save some fruit John

http://www.davidgray.com.au/products/horticulture/herbicides/agral-spray-adjuvent.html
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
8th January 2010 1:33pm
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Original Post was last edited: 8th January 2010 1:36pm
John I says...
I found a wetting agent in Bunnings called Spreadmax.Its too late for this years mangos but I will give the tree a hit to carry it through till next year. I will just wait until it cools down a bit.
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John I
Castle Hill
10th January 2010 10:12am
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Wayne says...
Great news John, you might like to open it up a bit beforehand to let a bit of sunlight in if you think it's necessary.
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
10th January 2010 10:47am
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John I says...
Open what up a bit??? You are starting to worry me now.
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John I
Castle Hill
10th January 2010 1:59pm
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Wayne says...
"Open what up a bit??? You are starting to worry me now."

Lol John, don't let it worry you they are pretty hardy trees. I actually saw one on the ABC Gardening show today at 1pm today that was planted in 1853, it was huge.

Have a look in that other thread "Cleaning out the Mango tree'

Cut the top out of it and make it spread. It will still get the same amount of fruit and they will be easier to pick.
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
10th January 2010 5:37pm
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Wayne says...
Just browsed up through this thread and noticed something that I never new before.

Jeff posted pics on mango leaves dieing from the tip back. Since then I have learnt that this problem requires a heavy dose of Gypsum then blood & bone every couple of months to rectify
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
10th January 2010 5:50pm
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Original Post was last edited: 10th January 2010 5:51pm
amanda says...
Hi Wayne - it's interesting about the nitrogen with salinity issues - apparently a lack of nitrogen in the soil exacerbates salinity issues.
That's why I gave my trees (in order): liquid gypsum, calcium nitrate and then liquid trace elements (Hi Trace). They responded beautifully! not a burnt tip or margin in sight for months. They are due to be done again now.
The way in which the plants are watered is also critical to control (in sandy loams). Long deep soaks. It must be a buggar to control in clay soil - as the clay holds up the salts.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
11th January 2010 10:31am
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Wayne says...
Hey Amanda, I have yet to try liquid gypsum, you have not long got me on to seasol.

I have sandy loam also which is very hungry so need to keep an eye on it. I'm going to use town water for the raised vegie gardens and bore for the lawn and fruit trees.

With the wet coming [I hope] the bore should improve and the rain might wash some of the salt away. The fruit trees don't seem to mind the hard water
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
11th January 2010 2:57pm
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amanda says...
Hi Wayne - For some reason I thought u had clay. Just a tip from the agronomist - veggies can tolerate a lot more salt than fruit trees - you may be better to use the more saline bore water on them and save the good water for your fruit trees.
I save my rain water (50,000L) for flushing my fruit trees during summer now (it was irrigating my veggie patch) and the veg get the crappy, salty town water. The idea (for me) is to give the fruit trees a good rainwatering maybe once a month in the dry - to help dilute out the salts and flush them down into the subsoil.
Hardness in water is interesting - my soil and water has a bit too much magnesium - the calcium/magnesium ratio in your soil is important when it somes to caking, water repellance and compaction. Magnesium increases this problem. So gypsum good for this too (to increase calcium levels - improves the soil).
It's a real balancing act with salinity issues. Fingers crossed u get rain soon - it's the panacea for the problem!
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
12th January 2010 11:27am
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Wayne says...
This is the water result Amanda
PH 7.5 - 6.5 to 8.5 is A grade
Hardness - 410 - [50/100 is A] 100 to 500 is B grade
T.D.S. - 1200 - [100/300 is A] 1000 to 1500 is C grade
Conductivity - 1800 - [175/450 is A] 1500 to 2200 is C grade
Salinity - 1000 - [10/500 is A] 500 to 2000 is B grade
Iron - .1 - A grade
Manganese - 0 good
Nitrate - 0 good

My fruit trees get watered with the lawn Amanda and they are doing fine so hopefully after this wet the water will improve.
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
12th January 2010 11:55am
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amanda says...
Hi Wayne - is that bore or tap water? high conductivity hey.. mine (tap)
EC (conductivity) 1663
TDS 1064.
Hardness 145

The EC = class 3 (high salinity)
It's the chloride and sodium in mine that is really bad (Cl = 300 mg/L) If >350 mg/L - then classed as severe for plants.

Be careful with it Wayne - the trouble with trees is that they store the sodium and chloride (if only they had kidneys like us!) the damage may not be seen until it passes a threshhold - then quite suddenly u can get tip and margin burn - when they become water stressed usually. When there is excess sodium and insufficient potassium then the trees will actively take up sodium too.
You should be able to manage - use liquid gypsum if you have an emergency - it works instantly unlike powder. Your mangoe trees will tell you first if there is a problem. What other trees do you have?
All things are not equal when it comes to salinity I have found - for eg: mine is exacerbated by hot dry winds and soil that struggles to hold moisture. You may fare better with increased humidity.
Check the water again after the rains and reassess the situation then.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
12th January 2010 12:16pm
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Wayne says...
Thanks for the heads up Amanda, that is my bore water

The town water should be good, it now has fluoride in it ---- thanks to our Premier - just kidding.
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
12th January 2010 12:44pm
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Claudine says...
hi all! my mango tree is looking much healthier these days! ive been giving it seasol and a good drink of water everyday, and spraying it with the mancozeb every fortnight, just mixed with water, not added anything else, and its doing well i think??????

any advise is appriciated!
Pictures - Click to enlarge

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Claudine
Singleton W.A.
12th January 2010 3:21pm
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amanda says...
Go Claudine! It looks great - well done and good on you for the feedback. Looks good to me - but I am no mangoe expert (only the salts part!)

Check the new leaves as they age - if they start to burn as they get older then give it some gypsum and a good flushing.

The advantage with pots is that they can be flushed of fertiliser salts and NaCl salts more readily than the ground I guess.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
12th January 2010 4:17pm
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John I says...
My mango looks great too. Its only problem is the fruit.
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John I
Castle Hill
12th January 2010 6:34pm
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amanda says...
Hi John I - how old is your tree?
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
12th January 2010 8:59pm
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John I says...
Around 18 years old. Its only 3 mtrs high as I often cut it back. Havnt done so for a few years now.
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John I
Castle Hill
14th January 2010 1:06pm
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amanda says...
Oh that old! - too hard for me John I - any other mangoe devotees out there who can help?

My hawiaan guava did the same thing last summer (some were almost ripe but most golf ball size) I put it down to not enough water - but to be honest I really don't know why a tree would drop fruit at that stage...my indian guava was fine.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
14th January 2010 1:14pm
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michael says...
Amanda you truley are a walking encylopedia on Mango trees!

I have three Mango trees that are quite old now. Two beauties (about 8-10 metres) but one however has never grown very big, only 3 metres tall with very close internodes due to some type of disease. Every year it grows new leaves, which then get rot and die off. I was told the soil around it might have been too firm, and not enabling water to soak in, so I dug big holes around it and filled them up with mulch to aid in this.

It actually has started to regrow better then all other years this season, but still not that good. I am wondering,
1. Should I cut it right back past all the old rot to aid in fresh new regrow?
2. Could it be something else entirely?
3. If i do this what should I do after to stop the plant from getting sick again after taking such a beating with the chainsaw?

My even bigger concern though is with my other BIG tree that I will discuss in my next post. Please see attached pics of this one.
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Picture: 2

Picture: 3

Picture: 4
  
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michael16
Coolum Beach QLD
26th January 2010 11:18am
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Original Post was last edited: 26th January 2010 11:27am
michael says...
This is the other tree, one of the two good ones!!! It has been growing fine for years, this year however it hasnt sent any new regrowth. The one 10m away is going crazy with new regrwoth! It looks like some type of fungus, and I am freaking out. I am concerned that whatever disease is in my bad one is in this one, however it seems unlikely as the good tree is close to the bad (above) tree then this one is.

Any ideas?
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michael16
Coolum Beach QLD
26th January 2010 11:22am
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Original Post was last edited: 26th January 2010 11:29am
Wayne says...
Hello John, an 18 year old mango tree should be in full production. Here's a few hints.

"Mangoes (Fertiliser) - Fertilizer high in Potash and Phosphorous is recommended. Terrafoska TE is an organic blend recommended for Mangoes. You can mix two parts Blood/Bone, one part Magnesium sulphate and one part Sulphate of Potash and apply every two months under the canopy at one clenched handful per sq metre."

I'm also starting to think about seasol for a quick fix. Q55 is another fertiliser used by the growers in Bowen.
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
26th January 2010 12:00pm
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Wayne says...
Those trees look terrible michael, I think they have Sour Sap caused by a Potash Deficiency in the soil.

"With this major deficiency your tree will be attacked by the fungi Anthracnose which stops flowering or destroys flowers. Apply a complete fertilizer high in Potash and Phosphorous such as Crop king 55 or TERRAFOSKA TE ONCE PER MONTH under the canopy spread. To control Antracnose mix Copper oxychloride and Mancozeb 30gms of each to 4.5litres water spray the canopy monthly do not spray when in flower, a good wetting agent IS A MUST, otherwise you are wasting your time.
Apply the fertilizer one clenched handful per sq metre under the canopy spread"

Michael, if you are going to control disease and want fruit you should open those trees up and let some sunlight in.

PS I have never killed a Mango tree yet with a chain saw, you could prune your trees to just above the first fork, taking ALL the leaves, and you will not hurt it.
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
26th January 2010 12:08pm
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Original Post was last edited: 26th January 2010 12:10pm
amanda says...
Hi michael - let's see what others say..Wayne? I have some ideas but I am more into the soil stuff..

The first tree looks a bit sick. Short internodes usually a nutritonal deficiency. I would spray the tree of anthracnose, clear the mulch away from the trunk (it's very close), prune off the dead bits and bin them.
I would then give the tree some trace elements and a liquid feed of "Power feed" (not too strong) Some gypsum wouldn't hurt either - it is a good source of calcium and sulphate and won't alter pH. Makes soil "sweet".

Treat all the trees for anthracnose - but I have no idea how you do this with big trees!
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
26th January 2010 12:14pm
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Wayne says...
The growth of the first tree is stunted from disease and lack of food Amanda, sure, use "Power feed" and it will certainly make a difference but the Mango growers up here do not use power feed or seasol. Q55 and Terrafoska is made with Mangoes in mind and provide all the trace elements required.

The bark on that tree is a give away, it looks more like a Poinsettia than a Mango.

I use a napsack spray on my trees which seems to build up enough pressure. The tree must be sprayed inside and out making sure the leaves are fully coated under and over, so this is one of the reasons to thin the trees. At to onset of anthracnose I spray once a week, after 4 sprays the trees are generally clear.

Gypsum is great and would be a plus for sure.

http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5240.html
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
26th January 2010 12:45pm
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Wayne says...
Michael, here's a photo of a Kensington Pride mango tree pruned back to the stump with three R2E2 grafts on it. As you can see, these trees are very hardy once established.
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Picture: 1
  
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
26th January 2010 6:47pm
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michael says...
This is great!!!!! Thank you soooo much guys I will try everything listed and post the results.

Thanks again.
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michael16
Coolum Beach QLD
28th January 2010 4:19pm
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John I says...
Thank you for your advice Wayne. Not much I can do for this year as all fruit has dropped off now. There is a row of large liquid amber trees about 10 mtrs from the tree. I suspect they are sucking all the goodness from the ground and the mango is suffering .
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John I
Castle Hill
29th January 2010 11:28am
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smita says...
Thanks wyane for response.Will u please tell me the following Pesticides products Advantage and when we can used dis pesticides how n what quantity .It is applicable on mangoes trees .I have 7 years old mango trees and tell me also duration how i can spray pesticides step by step(From start to end Process)
Mancozeb 75% (WP)
Acetamiprid 20% (SP)
Carbendazim 12% + Mancozeb 63% (WP)
Sulphur 80% (WP)
Acephate 75% (SP)
Metalaxyl 35% (WS)
Hexaconazole 35% (SC)
Lambda Cyhalothrin 5% (EC),

Regards;
Smita
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Smita
Goa
6th February 2010 2:52am
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Wayne says...
http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5240.html
http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5306.html
http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/26_7718.htm

To much information there for me to give advice Smita, some I have not heard of.

I use 30 grams of Mancozeb to 4.5 litres of water with at least as much wetting agent if I'm using it by itself. Start spraying weekly about a month before flowering and continue until fruit is about 1/2 grown, but keep an eye on it.

With the copperoxichloride, I combine 30 grams with the Mancozeb, but you cannot spray with this while the tree is flowering. Once the fruit is set you can add it back into the mix. I don't know hoe effective Mancozeb is by itself.

Carbendazim is a post harvest treatment for the fruit so perhaps the Carbendazim 12% + Mancozeb 63% as a spray might be worth a try.

For dipping the fruit after harvesting to stop stem rot and spots I have had success with Condys Crystals [Potassium permanganate]

Read the above links and I hope they help
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
6th February 2010 6:08am
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits says...
I live in okinawa japan and alot of the local mango farmers have been experiencing this "new" disease with there plants, the plants have large growths, that looks like a conglomeration of leaves and stem, i dont know if anyone knows what this is, some reasercher came to my farm yesterday and asked for a sample, soo i dont know if its a new disease, or if it is only happening in Okinawa? i will post another thread tomorrow with pictures of the infected mango trees
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits
Haebaru, OKinawa
6th March 2010 9:44pm
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits says...
hey i finally got around to taking a picture of the "disease" this was taked from the top of a 2 and a half year old cutting. sry for the crappy piture quality
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits
Haebaru, OKinawa
13th March 2010 9:44pm
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits says...
" "
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits
Haebaru, OKinawa
13th March 2010 9:45pm
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits says...
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits
Haebaru, OKinawa
13th March 2010 9:48pm
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Wayne says...
That sure is a bad looking virus
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
14th March 2010 6:05am
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits says...
lol, so i guess nobody knows what it is ? Agricultural researchers come by all the time and collect samples, but ive had no word back from them
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits
Haebaru, OKinawa
14th March 2010 5:04pm
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BJ says...
Never seen that. Looks more like plant you might smoke, than one you might eat...
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Theposterformerlyknownas
Brisbane
14th March 2010 5:23pm
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits says...
thats a a mango cutting in the vegetative state, not flowering, you don't smoke or eat it. Any advice would be helpful
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits
Haebaru, OKinawa
15th March 2010 11:24pm
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Wayne says...
I would be trying a copper based spray with ample wetting agent to make it stick. If that didn't work then Neem Oil.

It looks like a mold to me
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
16th March 2010 9:41am
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Brad says...
Wayne (& others) I've noticed your recipe normally has copper oxychloride. Any important pros & cons for this over cupric hydroxide (which is what I've got)? I suspect much of a muchness, but I don't know
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Brad2
Como, Perth
17th March 2010 12:39pm
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Wayne says...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper(II)_hydroxide

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_fungicides


I think you are right Brad, I've not heard of your product but it does sound the same. That list of fungicides is interesting
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
18th March 2010 4:15pm
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Original Post was last edited: 18th March 2010 4:22pm
Brad says...
Another link off your first one is nice and succinct.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7481.html

I understood the pro of the 'new' copper sprays over Bordeaux to be less likely to burn. This page doesn't discriminate our 2, but says they would be less persistent than bordeaux in rain.

Since Perth doesn't rain (4 months now I think), I'm more worried about burn than persistance. You might have the opposite preference.

Cheers
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Brad2
Como, Perth
18th March 2010 8:41pm
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safiugharadar says...
safi
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safiugharadar
gujarat
27th March 2010 5:48pm
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Original Post was last edited: 1st April 2010 6:46pm
Nerida says...
Hi, I have 2 old mango trees (?>20 years) in our suburban backyard in the inner-west of Sydney. There is a big lush one in the centre of the yard that, historically produces much less fruit than the other which is half its size, but in a garden bed next to a fence with neighbouring native trees on the other side. The fruit from the last 2 seasons has developed a black rot over the skin, particularly around the stem, some of the fruit were ruined by this.
The smaller tree, over the past couple of years has begun to yellow & although regrowth has diminished, it produced a bumper crop this year! A horticulturalist from Flowerpower suggested that the tree was nutrient deficient & needed pruning. So, I cut it back significantly, pulled all plants out round the base, added compost & mulch, fed it sparingly with slow-release "Organic Extra", and have been watering it every 1-2weeks. There has been no regrowth in 2 months except for 3 little buds which are not progressing (I also pruned out the canopy of the other tree & it has been growing back really well). The other problem with this small tree is that around the base of the trunk there is a large dark brown indentation which covers the bottom 1/3 (about 40cm high)& smaller indentations are developing over the branches and oozing small amounts of sap. In the past 2 weeks the few green leaves left are starting to die off.
HELP!!! I don't want my tree to die, but I am starting to fear the worst!
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Nerida
Ashbury,NSW
22nd April 2010 4:50pm
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Wayne says...
Hello Nerida

Don't panic, we'll fix it. But before we try can you post some pics.

I don't know why one tree would produce more than the other, are they the same variety? Does the tree with the lush growth flower as much as the other, if so and the flower comes to nothing then it has anthracnose which is most common.

The tree with the fruit going black certainly has anthracnose or something similar. In both cases you need to spray weekly with a copper based spray such as copper oxychloride and mancozeb, mixed 30g of each to 4.5L water and make sure you use a wetting agent.

If the fruit is developing stem rot on the tree the spray will fix that. If the fruit is marking after you pick it wash the fruit as soon as you pick it in a weak condies crystals or a weak detol solution.

The brown marks and leeching sap indicates it it needs sulphate of potash as well as a good fertiliser such as Terrafoske PE. "Organic Extra", should be fine but make sure you are fertilising out where the drip line of the tree was before you cut it back and not around the trunk.

It is the wrong time of the year to prune a mango tree, it is now dormant until after winter. Make sure you seal the cuts with a branch sealer or a weak water based paint solution.

I don't think you will see any improvement in the tree until about October, so make sure you do not over water it. It will not need much water at all over winter
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
22nd April 2010 5:09pm
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Original Post was last edited: 23rd April 2010 3:17pm
Jack says...
I have a mangoe tree appox 3 years old was wanting to know if i can prune a 2 meter high tree to 1 meter in spring will it shoot again and also can i transplant it out to another place in the garden. Please could someone let me know.
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Perth
25th April 2010 9:58pm
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Nick says...
Here are some Autumn pics of my mango trees. I was just wondering what all the spots are caused by. I guessed the yellowish colour was iron deficiency so I lowered the pH from 7 to 6. I also curious if anyone else has grown mangoes in Victoria.
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Nick T
Altona VIC
16th May 2010 12:01pm
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Nick says...
The pictures arent working so I'll describe the problem. One leaf is going browny orange around the edges. Some leaves have dull grey spots and are withering from the tip while others have dark black spots. Lastly four leaves are going really light green/ light yellow in places.
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Nick T
Altona VIC
16th May 2010 12:23pm
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Original Post was last edited: 16th May 2010 12:24pm
Wayne says...
Hello Jack
Yes you can prune your tree back by 1/3 safely. If you are taking the centre out and leaving the side branches that will all the better. Personally I wouldn't do it until after your season when the new growth starts, the tree is dormant now.

Transplanting is not a problem either, just be careful with the tap root. We always pruned the trees before transplanting but people here say they have more success by not pruning.

http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0006/119787/mango-growing.pdf


Nick, I think your tree just lacks nourishment, search Mango tree fertiliser DPI QLD. Perhaps some sulphate of Potash then a fertiliser such as Terrafoska TE. I to have problems loading pics, this site times out if you pics are to high in quality, if I use the el-cheapo camera it's fine

http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5240.html
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
16th May 2010 4:46pm
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Original Post was last edited: 16th May 2010 5:40pm
Nick says...
Thanks Jack.
I do have some potash but I'm just stuck on when to apply it. I was guessing Spring.
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Altona VIC
17th May 2010 8:39pm
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Nick says...
I bought some Seasol liquid seaweed which can be applied year-round. It says it contains very little NPK. Apart from this would it work some miracles on my troubled tree. I think it also says it increases frost/disease tolerance which would be a massive extra considering its now Winter.
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Nick T
Altona VIC
22nd May 2010 7:09pm
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luis says...
i have something growing on the bark of my mango tree it looks like some kind of moss but im not sure how do i get rid of it and is it hurting the tree also ive had this tree for over 6 years and seems to have stopped growing i have tried fertilizers pruning and nothing seems to work it bears fruit but i want the tree to grow or spread or something any ideas thank you
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luis
miami florida
28th May 2010 4:25am
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Original Post was last edited: 7th June 2010 10:24am
Ben says...
Hi John,

I live nearby and tend to get early flowers too on my mango tree. But because our overnight temperatures are often too low for the flowers to pollinate properly, most of the young fruits abort early as they are sterile. My tree label suggests cutting of the early flower panicles in cooler climates (us) and the flowers will reshoot in warmer times, with a higher success rate. I will be trying this method this season. Any thoughts anyone?
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Frenchs Forest, Sydney NSW
16th June 2010 10:26am
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grub says...
Okinawa Tropical Fruits
mate looks like Mango Malformation Disease (MMD) is a fungal
disease of mangoes caused by several species of
Fusarium, some yet to be described. Mango is the
only known host of the disease.

found in darwin a new disease in 2007
hope this helps

here the link
http://www.nt.gov.au/d/Content/File/p/Plant_Pest/mango_malformation_revised.pdf
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grub
dardanup
17th June 2010 9:41pm
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Original Post was last edited: 17th June 2010 9:44pm
Claudine says...
Hi all, i havent written on here for months as my tree has been doing great! heaps of new growth and very green, no dying brown leaves or black spots to be seen :) i stopped spaying it with the mancozeb as soon as it was looking good, and free of the dying leaves...and have just been giving it water really for the last 2 months, but now its winter and its cold and getting rain...i was just wondering if i still should give it a water, its still in a ceramic black pot, and should i apply any fertilizer? i really want it to fruit this summer, as ive had it for around 6 yrs now and never had a mango!
thanks, love to read any tips :)
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Claudine
Singleton W.A.
20th June 2010 10:35pm
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grub says...
gidday all
i have a leave problem on 2 of my kp mangoes
there in pots in a shade house, till spring ..
i have 6 in there and the 2 in both the corners have this leave disorder more than the rest .it also has mold growing under the leavers so im thinking it could be to humid in the house .it has not effected my bannanas.... can you tell me what i have ?they only get rain water,and every 2 weeks get hit with sea sole and power feed . i did fertilize them when i repotted them 4 months ago (organic) and have not added any more than the liquid power feed ..
i thought it was fertilizer burn from over feritilizering or not enough water .the salts in my water dont even regerster on a salt meter .many thanks grub
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grub
dardanup
22nd June 2010 8:14pm
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Original Post was last edited: 22nd June 2010 8:30pm
cathh says...
Hi there, i was just wanted to ask about my mango tree, it has some weird white thing on it. i was just wondering what disease or problem does it have?
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cathh
 
14th July 2010 5:17pm
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Original Post was last edited: 14th July 2010 5:39pm
Nick says...
Wierd.. that's exactly the same thing on my mangoes leaves. I think I read in a book that that is sunburn or something but I'm not completely sure. All I know is that it looks really unusual
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
20th July 2010 5:49pm
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amanda says...
Well - I have just about had it with my mangoes!? This tree has just become burnt with the first heavy rains washing 'salts' back into the irrigation zone maybe?
It is likely due to the extra stuff this tree gets - as the other tree is 30m away and totally neglected...and it's doing much better? (both KP seedlings)

Anyway - grub's is fertiliser burn I would say and cathh's looks like an old burn on an old leaf, that is just flaking off now. I have some of these too.

I don't know what to do about my mangoe?
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amanda19
Geraldton
21st July 2010 1:10pm
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Nick says...
Well I guess that makes sense cause only the oldest leaves near the ground are looking like that. Thanks for that amanda.
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
22nd July 2010 5:46pm
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Nick says...
Well I guess that makes sense cause only the oldest leaves near the ground are looking like that. Thanks for that amanda.
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
22nd July 2010 5:46pm
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Brad says...
I'm not surprised you're struggling with Mangoes - you need my father in law as a consultant. He said last night for Perth, you'd start ensuring heavy water now, more when they flower and right through before reducing it for fruit flavour

Maybe you can ask come canarvon growers to stop by on their way down the coast?
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Brad2
Como, Perth
22nd July 2010 7:23pm
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Nick says...
This is irrelevant but I've planted 2 mango seeds and they both keep developing a sticky honey-like substance on top no matter how many times I wash them. I have never had success with them. Does anyone know the problem and possibly the prevention/ cure?
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Altona, VIC
22nd July 2010 7:37pm
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amanda says...
Thanks Brad - is your father in law an ex-carnarvon grower? I may know of him - spent 5 yrs there.
The interesting thing about these two trees is that the one that is looking good is also sitting on top of where I divined the underground water stream..?
They do seem to love their water don't they...I haven't given them much cos I didn't think they would be growing in this weather..? Thanks for the tip.

Nick - can u post a photo? There are others on the forum with a lot more experience in mangoes that may know..?
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amanda19
Geraldton
23rd July 2010 9:37am
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Brad says...
Nah. he comes from southern india and has grown them really well in Perth for years. He's had a few commercial growers asking advice
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Brad2
Como, Perth
23rd July 2010 9:46am
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Kristina says...
Hi, I live in Sydney's Inner West and have a young mango tree (about 4 years old) which I'd like to prune to contain it's size. Can I prune now? I've noticed a flush of leaves appearing on the tips and I'm worried I may be too late now?
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Kristina
Sydney
26th July 2010 1:58pm
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Brendan says...
Hi Kristina,
Mango trees (like most fruit trees), are usually pruned just after they finish fruiting. Up here, that's around March / April. Don't know about in Sydney tho.
Cut it back by about 1/3rd is the safest bet, as a too heavy prune can kill the tree.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
27th July 2010 7:18am
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Kristina says...
Thanks Brendan
Down here they finish fruiting about February. I was just wondering if I could prune it before it went through the fruiting stage, and I don't know if the flush of growth I'm seeing now is leaves and therefore if it's OK or not to chop back at this stage, or do I wait for one more whole cycle and cut as soon as I pick the last fruit next year?
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Kristina
Sydney
28th July 2010 9:03am
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Wayne says...
Hey Kristina
The flush of growth you see now is the prelude to flowering [I think]. Like Brendan says I would suggest not to cut it back now, wait until it fruits and you won't shock the tree so much. Beside, it won't grow any until after it fruits.

Again like Brendan says, prune your tree by roughly 30% to be safe as it is such a young tree. When it gets to be 15-20-30 years old you can then cut it back to the stump. This is how many Bowen farmers operate, they then graft their R2E2 Mangoes on to the stumps
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
28th July 2010 4:55pm
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Rodney says...
Hi,

Can you have a look at the two photos I have posted, this looks like anthracnose or black spot on the leaves of my Mango Tree.Can anyone tell me though what the tiny white dots are.

Regards

Rodney
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Rodney1
Brisbane QLD
2nd August 2010 10:50pm
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VIVEK says...
AMANDA,
My complements to you for such a beautiful
garden/farm,I vsited it Just now,you can try homeopathic medicine NAT.MUR.12x add 2 drops or pills to 1 lit dissolve it and give it to the roots you will see the diff withi 2-days pl. give me feedback on bapu4@yahoo.com
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bapu4
INDIA
12th August 2010 9:00pm
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VIVEK says...
Dear AMANDA
This is for the problem of sodium chloride
In your water.
vivek
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bapu4
INDIA
12th August 2010 9:31pm
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amanda says...
Hi VIVEK. What is NAT.MUR please?
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
12th August 2010 9:35pm
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VIVEK says...
Amanda,
Thhis is a homeopathic remedy
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bapu4
INDIA
12th August 2010 9:53pm
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VIVEK says...
Amanda,
We can discuss if you are there on PC
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bapu4
INDIA
12th August 2010 9:57pm
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amanda says...
I don't think so VIVEK. How about u direct me to your "official website"..?

PS - HOMEO-pathy is for humans - not plants.
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
12th August 2010 10:03pm
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VIVEK says...
Amanda,
That is the mis conception prevelant amongst people,in plants it does miracles
I dont have any official web site as yet.
Vivek
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bapu4
INDIA
12th August 2010 10:14pm
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amanda says...
that's ok Vivek - but for security reasons I cannot connect with u live. Why not tell us all about your product and then we can discuss?
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
12th August 2010 10:18pm
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VIVEK says...
Dear Amanda,
You are going on wrong NAT>MUR is not my product nor I do any business of such product,it was out of sheer affection towards the fruiting trees that I suggested you this solution.NAT>MUR must be awalable in any health store if you enquire.In INDIA it casts 10rs. for 20 drops. !$=45rs.I hope you are satisfied.
vivek
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bapu4
INDIA
12th August 2010 10:29pm
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amanda says...
Ok - thanks Vivek. Any solution to salinity problems would be a world wide revolution. Worth many more $ than 45 rupees I would think?
I am off to Bali soon - do u think I could find it there?
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
12th August 2010 10:37pm
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VIVEK says...
I Have little Idea about America/Bali
but you can check up with few health stores and you are sure to get one.
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bapu4
INDIA
12th August 2010 10:50pm
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amanda says...
thank you Vivek - I will do that. Do u use this product yourself? Do u know what the ingredients are maybe?

(sorry but we get a lot of "spammers" on this site - so it is hard to know when something is truth or not...)
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amanda19
Geraldton. WA
12th August 2010 11:07pm
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VIVEK says...
Dear Amanda,
I am a homeopathy practitioner,I understand your concern,It is out of sheer love and selfless service to plants and humanity.Nat.mur is nothing but potentised sodium chlorides,the solution thet i suggested you is based on sound fundsmental principle of homeopathy that says"like cures like" If you give the samle of remdy to any international laboratory no lab can detect the content of the remedy the will say this contains nothing,actually these remedies work on NANO level,The disease that is created by a crude form of a substance will be cured by the same substance in potentised form,this is proved.soon you will see that agri world is going to be taken by stor for good and you will forget the pesticides and fungicides because in htes you aim at killing fungus or pests but iin homeopathy we taget the patient and not the disease in agri's case it is the plant,the plant is made so strong that it withstands or repels the pests and fungicide,remember my words that you will change your ways for better in future,pl.don't forget to inform me when you start on the path,imagine pesticide free fruits/vegitables,it will not be organic farming but homeopathic farming,homeopathy does'nt say no to organic manure,but to other so called 'cides which are always a threat to health of masses.The expenses are also peanuts as compared to modern farming methods.
vivek
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bapu4
INDIA
12th August 2010 11:49pm
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VIVEK says...
DeaR AMANDA,
I am not a regular visitor to this site,only the loded fruit trees pulled me.Also I am not very good at typing so excuse me skiping the Alphabets or at times scribling with them.
vivek
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bapu4
INDIA
13th August 2010 12:47am
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fred says...
I left a 40lb bag of salt(for pool) outside right next to my mango tree and went on vacation not remembering i had left it there. Had alot of rain and when i returned most of the bag was absorbed. Will this harm my tree? it is approx. 25-30 feet high.
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13th August 2010 10:44pm
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Wayne says...
Hello Fred
I don't think the salt will harm your tree as it feeds mostly out near the drip line and if the salt hasn't got out that far I wouldn't worry.
Might be worth spreading some Gypsum around to help disperse it, not sure.
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
14th August 2010 7:41am
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Original Post was last edited: 14th August 2010 1:18pm
Brendan says...
G'day fred,
Doesn't sound too good.
But, try applying a 'lot' of gypsum to the area. Make it 4 to 5 handfuls per sq metre and water that in. (can't overdo gypsum).
I'd buy some 'liquid gypsum' and give it that too.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
14th August 2010 7:48am
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Nick says...
Hey everyone, does anyone have any tips on pulling up a young mango tree? It is still quite small but I want to replace it with a larger, healthier one. I was also planning to replant it in a pot.
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
21st August 2010 9:41pm
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Michael says...
My mango trees in surburbian Sydney is putting out flower blooms . Are others as well ?
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Michael
Wakeley
23rd August 2010 12:48pm
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BJ says...
They are flowering nicely up here now, so I guess it should be time for trees in Sydney to start putting out flowers too.
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Theposterformerlyknownas
Brisbane
23rd August 2010 1:23pm
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Pb says...
Please can one of you tell me what to do with my mango tree (planted 2 years ago)that is flowering for first time now but has some brown dying leaves. some leaves the "brown" is along the middle of the leaves along the vein - so spreading from inside of leaf to outside. Am I over watering it. many thanks for any help
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Pb
Perth
22nd September 2010 12:57pm
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Wayne says...
Could be a couple of things Pb, perhaps Anthracnose or more likely Soursap if the leaves are dying from the tip back. If it is Soursap give it a good spread of Sulphate of Potash under the canopy as well as some Gypsum every couple of months.

For Anthracnose spray weekly with Mancozeb only until the fruit sets. Then add Copperoxichloride until the fruit is 1/3 plus grown. These sprays won't hurt anyway if it's not the fungus -- but do not spray the flowers with a copper spray, it will kill them.

How old is the tree?
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
22nd September 2010 3:56pm
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Original Post was last edited: 22nd September 2010 4:00pm
Pb says...
Thank you so much Wayne.

I bought "Mancozeb plus" today .. will try it out tommorrow, it has sulphur in it. Is that still ok to use? I will do the potash and gypsum too and see if that helps. The mango tree has endured two perth winters and this is its second spring..only planted for 2 years but have no idea how old it was when I bought it. Just a Big W $70 job and I don't even know what type of mango it is. Many thanks
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Pb
perth
23rd September 2010 12:06am
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Wayne says...
"Mancozeb plus" is fine Pb, I forgot to mention that the spray will not work without a wetting agent. Searles Spredmax is very good, I apologise for that Pb
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
23rd September 2010 7:21am
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BJ says...
Wow, you have to pay $70 for a generic Big W mango?

For that I'd expect a double grafted Bowen/Thai on dwarfing rootstock!
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Theposterformerlyknownas
Brisbane
23rd September 2010 9:52am
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Brad says...
Pb - next time head out to Tass1 in the valley. Around $40 will get you a dwarf or full sized named cultivar in good condition
(and despite the fact that I keep recommending Joe, I'm not affiliated in any way, other than liking the bloke)
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Brad2
Como, Perth
23rd September 2010 11:36am
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Jimmy says...
I like him too, he has a certain swarthy southern italian charm that just gets me going.
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Jimmy
Perth
23rd September 2010 1:15pm
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grub says...
gidday i trying to make the organic fertilizer from this forum with 2 parts blood bone 1 part epson salts and 1 part potash .the only problem is the only blood and bone i can get has trace elements already in it (rich grow preimun plus with 1% potash) .i can get meat meal so my question is can i use the preminum or the meAt meal?many thanks in advance

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grub
 
24th September 2010 1:36pm
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grub says...
gidday i trying to make the organic fertilizer from this forum with 2 parts blood bone 1 part epson salts and 1 part potash .the only problem is the only blood and bone i can get has trace elements already in it (rich grow preimun plus with 1% potash) .i can get meat meal so my question is can i use the preminum or the meAt meal?many thanks in advance

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grub
 
24th September 2010 1:36pm
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amanda says...
Grub - why not just use the B&B with the trace elements?
It sounds like a "complete" fertiliser?
You may not need to add extra potassium or magnesium - the trees will tell you if they are lacking in something - and u can address a particular element then?
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amanda19
Geraldton Mid West WA
24th September 2010 6:22pm
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Claudine says...
hi there! just wondering if you all could give some tips on what to feed, or do for my mango tree this time of year...its been a little while since i wrote on here...but i have a mango tree in a pot...had it for about 6 years now, bought it from kmart in karratha W.A. when i was working up there, but it has been back with me in mandurah for the past 4yrs now..
and it has never beared fruit...but is starting to flower now...and has tiny mangoes on it! so im hoping to get some mangoes this year!! it has been very healthy and green since this time last year really...all tips will be great! thanks :) just added some pictures so you can see how much its grown since last time i posted, and the flowering too!
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Claudine
Singleton W.A.
27th September 2010 10:00pm
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Original Post was last edited: 8th November 2010 11:22am
grub says...
gidday can some give me some advice on these mango leaves ?they look a little pail compard to my other smaller mangoes with yellow veins,these mangoes have been in pots for 8 years, and they have been in the open all year and had 7or 8 frosts this winter .i have just planted them in the groung this week end .im on real gut less sandy soil so i mixed half a borrow of cow manure to the holes then rotary hoed them in to a square meter i have not added any thing else,i was going to add gypson at 500 grams a square mtr and in 2 weeks was going to add some blood bone potash any help much appreciated ,these trees are new to me im a vegie guy...sorry for the short story many thanks in advance
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grub
 
28th September 2010 3:04pm
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Original Post was last edited: 28th September 2010 3:16pm
grub says...
sorry me again i have a couple of limbs starting to die and go black and slowly creaping down the limb ..i was going to cut them off after some advice ..i think they are frost damaged .but i just guessing .many thanks grub.... sorry for the bad photo
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grub
 
28th September 2010 3:13pm
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Original Post was last edited: 28th September 2010 8:45pm
amanda says...
Hi grub - your sand looks as sad as mine :( They will need a lot of water.

Are u watering with scheme or bore water?

How much water have you been giving them and how often? - a bit hard to tell from the pics but the leaves on the dead limb look really burnt? can u post another pic of them?

The other leaves look ok - I would just be giving them seasol (seaweed) at this stage - likely have transplant shock after 8 yrs in a pot. U really want to see some fresh new growth b4 u start fertilising them.

Were they pot-bound? Circling roots in the pot?

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amanda19
Geraldton Mid West WA
28th September 2010 9:12pm
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grub says...
gidday amanda they are on bore water now .i was using seasol and power feed every 2 weeks when they were in pot with rain water and i probly wated them every 3 days with 4 liters,i read not to give em much water before they flower.i have watered every day since transplanted only in the morning with mini sprinklers.yes they were pot bound
i will take some more photos
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grub
 
28th September 2010 9:30pm
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Original Post was last edited: 28th September 2010 9:36pm
amanda says...
Grub - have u had your bore water tested recently?

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amanda19
Geraldton Mid West WA
29th September 2010 9:52am
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grub says...
hi amanda i have had my water tested and the salts were 1730 ppm ,i have the analist report here some were..i post once if found it .thanks
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grub
 
29th September 2010 7:39pm
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amanda says...
Ok Grub - that's a start. My tap water has 160 ppm Sodium and 300 ppm Chloride. This sodium is classed as "Moderate" and the Chloride "Moderate" (but only for chloride tolerant plants)

Did the people/lab who tested your water give u any reference ranges/comments in relation to growing fruit trees with your bore water?

1100 ppm salinity is the max level recommended for humans. I would discontinue the bore water on your mangoes (they hate salt!) and get some advice before u use it again - just to be sure.

We have a retic specialist outlet here called "Think Water" - and they are pretty good - also many rural suppliers like CRT, Landmark have an agronomist/horticulturalist - who can assist u. They also have kits for this kind of testing - I had one done through Delta Water and it cost about $60 - I got great feedback on my results in relation to gardening with our awful tap water.

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amanda19
Geraldton Mid West WA
29th September 2010 9:10pm
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Nick says...
Hey everybody,
My mango is about to flower but im starting to worry because I read on a website that pollination cant occur below 12 degrees. And we are still get nights to about 9 degrees. What can I do to ensure some success?
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
8th November 2010 7:54pm
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grub says...
gidday my mango's are in flower even after there horror winter and a dozen frosts ..we have had 30 mm rain last week and im wondering if this will affect fruit set and disease?heresa photo of them ,thanks in advance grub
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grub
dardanup south east bunbury wa
15th November 2010 10:06pm
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amanda says...
wow grub! that's really positive news for anyone wanting to grow mangoes down that way. I don't know the answer to your question though...maybe someone else?

Rain can affect fruit set - but maybe 30mm might be ok?
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amanda19
Geraldton Mid West WA
16th November 2010 10:34am
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Wayne says...
That much rain shouldn't effect the blossoms Grub, unless it was heavy.
The tree in pic 1 and the bloom on the right of that tree is showing typical signs of anthracnose, I hope I'm wrong, but you might consider fertilising with Potash and spraying the trees with Mencozeb.

The blooms are open but not set yet so you can't use a copper spray until the fruit has set. If it is anthracnose it might be to late, is there any sign of fruit setting yet?
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
16th November 2010 11:11am
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grub says...
gidday amanda & wayne, thanks for the advice i need it as mangos are new to me and they all said i couldnt do it lol..i applyed potash 2 weeks ago about 50 grams a square meter , i was spraying mencozeb every fortnight up untill i notice a open flower about 2-3 weeks ago,no i havnt seen any fruit as yet.i also put the home made te fertilizer on them as well...thanks again ..
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grub
dardanup south east bunbury wa
16th November 2010 4:51pm
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grub says...
oh forgot toask about the copper mix i have read on the site ....
30g copperoxy chloride, 30g mancozeb, 60ml of a 'good' wetting agent, to 4.5litres water..
this is double what my mancozeb recommends.do i stick will the recommended doze or can we up it to \
30g copperoxy chloride, 30g mancozeb
my mancozeb is 700 grams a kilo
thanks
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grub
dardanup south east bunbury wa
16th November 2010 4:55pm
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Wayne says...
It seems to me that you are doing everything right Grub, it will take time for the potash to kick in and I don't think you can over do it.

Mancozeb only at this stage but I would go 3grms per litre minimum. I personally feel that 60ml of wetting agent to 4.5ltr of water is excessive, goodness, a normal bottle is around 125ml

I don't know if this would work but I have recently found that Eco-oil used as a wetting agent works fine and kills two birds with one stone - and you need only about 5ml? per liter - even if you double it, it sounds better

Please keep us up to speed with what's happening
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
16th November 2010 5:19pm
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Original Post was last edited: 16th November 2010 5:20pm
grub says...
thanks for the advice wayne and amanda here are my little mangoes ..i have started spraying Mancozeb and copper oxychloride last week . thanks again grub
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grub
dardanup south east bunbury wa
15th December 2010 10:38pm
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Original Post was last edited: 15th December 2010 10:40pm
Wayne says...
They look great Grub, no sign of disease at all on the stems, well done
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
16th December 2010 7:00am
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amanda says...
Awesome grub! U are doing better than me - my mangoes never even flower...they just don't get enough water at the right time.

I would also be tempted to give them a a treat of gypsum next autumn and, working in with the season rains, it should give the soil a hand to leach some of the salts.
Gypsum has soluble sulphur which is good for sandy soils and calcium - which is needed by fruiting trees also. It is a good "soil sweetener"

I hope your fruit is delicious! :)
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amanda19
Geraldton Mid West WA
16th December 2010 6:45pm
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grub says...
thanks guys i have a 25 kg bag of gypsum ready to go just hadnt got around to applying it
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grub
dardanup south east bunbury wa
16th December 2010 11:21pm
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grub says...
Hi every one merry chritmas to you all
i have source some terrafoska te fertiliser in wa, they also have reproduced the mango mix ,so i guessing as its for my mangoe's i should order the mango mix instead of the terrafoska te.
any one been using the mango mix?
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grub
dardanup south east bunbury wa
24th December 2010 1:20pm
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Nick says...
Merry Christmas to you too grub,
Does anyone know at what temperature new mango shoots get damaged. I was just wondering because its going to get down to 11 degrees one night this week.
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
14th January 2011 6:44pm
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Jason says...
They should be ok down to pretty much 0c, I never saw cold damage on a mango I was trying to grow outside here and it was in the ground for about 5 years, just wasn't warm enough to grow
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Jason
Portland
14th January 2011 11:48pm
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Nick says...
Here's some pics of my oldest mango tree finally finding its feet. After 2 years of attemted flowering and failure its finally branching out everywhere along the trunk. Also I replaced the younger dead mango with a slightly larger one and its starting to shoot.
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
27th January 2011 7:35pm
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grub says...
gidday here is the latest photos on my mangoes i have 2 left on the one tree cant wait to get them lol
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17th February 2011 11:23pm
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Brendan says...
G'day grub,
What variety is that? Looks a bit like the old 'common'? (which I like the best! :-)
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
19th February 2011 7:59am
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grub says...
gidday brendan it's the bowen mango growen from seed..


here is a photo of one of my mangoes that was totaly bald with no leaves 2 weeks ago .
it lost all the leave when the dripper block up didnt get water for a lest a month or more .they do recoever very quickly when the get a drink and feed..
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20th February 2011 10:32pm
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Brendan says...
G'day grub,
I can't see too much mulch around your trees? Mulch (as you would know), helps retain moisture, just remember to keep it away from the trunk :-)
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
21st February 2011 9:11am
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Nick says...
Up to what time of the year can I use liquid powerfeed on my mango?
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Nick T
Altona
6th March 2011 7:58pm
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Glory says...
Hi Nick how do you protect your Mango tree from the cold weather or frost?
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Melbourne
6th March 2011 9:47pm
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Nick says...
Hi Glory,
When the temperatures drop below 4 degrees I put over a cover (an old, lightweight blanket that droops to the ground), a couple of half lemonade bottle filled with water underneath and starting this year, an anti-dessicant spray (I use Yates Droughtshield). If we ever do get temperatures below 0 I'll probably add an additional heat source underneath the blanket.
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
7th March 2011 6:53pm
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Pami says...
HI, I got a few mango plants grown from seeds and in pots for last 2-4 yrs and now only one is given a couple of mangoes and they are still on tree, green. It frowered in Nov. and fruited and now nearly matured, but don't know when to pick it. Had plenty of flowers and dropped, washed off by rain and rotten by anthracnose. All plants looking good, but would like also to know what time of the year to treat these plants, like pruning, change of soil, spray etc. Could you pls advise me anyone out there....Thanks. Sorry, have no pics taken, may be next time...Ta.
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Pami
Castle Hill,Sydney, NSW
9th March 2011 8:59pm
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Aryan Dsena says...
I have a 40Years old Mango tree{20Ft} in our backyard but from last 7years it was fruiting hardly 4-5mangoes BUT this time I thought to add fertilizers{2Kg Urea,10gm Gibberenlic Acid and 1kgDAP} and 50ml pesticide i.e {"Dimethoate"}both sprayed and into ground.I did fertilizing and pesticiding in December and in January we received Uncountable flowers I mean flowers were covering whole tree!!Then on 11th March I read this Forum to spray pesticide while flowering so I Heavily sprayed Dimethoate with water Gun over flowers But from last Two days flowers have become BARE{Dried} and 80% of them have fallen:(:( But now there is Leaf growth all over the tree Gosh the leaves are growing like bullet train!!
Help me what went wrong??What to do??
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Aryan Dsena
New Delhi
24th March 2011 5:37am
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Wayne says...
Hello Aryan, I've not heard of Dimethoate but after googling it, it seems you have used the wrong stuff.
Anthracnose is what killed your flowers and you need a copper based spray to kill the fungus so this is what is recommended for us.

About a month before the tree flowers spray weekly with 30grams of Copper Oxichloride and 30grams Mancozeb mixed with 4.5litres of water making sure you use a good wetting agent, otherwise the spray will not work

Once the flowers start to open cut the Copper Oxichloride from the spray but keep spraying weekly with the Mancozeb until the fruit has set. Then re-introduce the copper oxichloride and keep spraying until the fruit is half grown or larger

These are Yates products and you should be able to get them. If not contact Yates direct and seek their advice

cheers

Another thought is that the spray used would have killed any insects so perhaps the flowers were not polinated
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
24th March 2011 7:44am
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Original Post was last edited: 24th March 2011 9:10am
John I says...
I have decided to give my mango tree a severe cut back to get rid of diseased branches. What time of year is best for that?
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John I
Castle hill
27th March 2011 1:19pm
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Wayne says...
As soon as you pick the fruit John, and as the new growth is about to start is when I do mine
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
27th March 2011 4:35pm
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Brendan says...
I'm about to prune mine right now, but it won't stop RAINING! :-(
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
29th March 2011 8:26am
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John I says...
Done mine already.Looks like a fork now.
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John I
Castle hill
2nd April 2011 4:32pm
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Jazz says...
Hi Rodney
I have the same thing that happened on your mango tree. Did you find out what it was? If so, can you please tell me how to get rid of it?
Regards,
Jazz

P.S sorry for the bad picture, my camera isn't working.
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Jazz
QLD
14th April 2011 9:02pm
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grub says...
Gidday ,i final got to eat my 2 mangoes the irst fsince i transplanted them in the ground in september ,they tast heaps better than the shop bought mangoes .so thanks sor all the help..
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20th April 2011 4:45pm
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Brendan says...
Hi grub,
Good stuff! When you get too many on your tree, try eating some half-ripe, with a tiny bit of salt. They are yum! I'd eat twice as many half-ripe than ripe.

Btw, did you see my post on 'square watermelons'? (Search top right :-)
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
24th April 2011 7:34am
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Xiem says...
Yes eating unripe or green mangoes is the way to go in SE Asia. Sometimes they make a brown-coloured sauce to dip the pieces in, probably containing palm sugar and salt or fish sauce.
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Diego
 
30th April 2011 12:23pm
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grub says...
gidday brendan
thanks ill be trying thoes green mangoes next time round thanks mate
yes mate i did see the watermelons
im going to try it next year
and see how it goes
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18th May 2011 3:53pm
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John I says...
Think I may have killed my mango tree. I cut it right back and there are no new shoots after 8 weeks. Oh well,so what,it was a crap tree anyway.
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John I
Castle hill
22nd May 2011 2:20pm
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Wayne says...
Don't give up John, you have just pruned it at the wrong time of year. Your tree will be dormant until about October so if it survives until then it will shoot. By pruning the tree now you have cut away this seasons crop so look forward to mangoes next year

It could be worth a thought to seal the cuts to help keep rot out

Cheers
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Wayne
 
24th May 2011 5:55pm
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Original Post was last edited: 24th May 2011 6:10pm
John I says...
Lets see.
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John I
Castle hill
27th May 2011 6:31pm
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Mike says...
I found that equal copper oxy and mancozeb help fungal diseases like anthracnose,pinks disease in annona and citrus but not that apparently does not stop the dreaded Phytopthera.I spray avos and durian with phosphonate to make sure there is no active phyto. Alot of the pictured trees have chloride,salt or fertliser/defiency problems especially those with burnt leaves.
Things go better if you use sulphate fert not chloride,don't use too much gypsum (makes fe,mg and mn less available) or dolomite and know nutrient antogonisms and deficiency symptoms.Excess of P,N,Mg,K,Ca and Bo reduce availability of, in the same order Fe Mn,K,K N P Fe Ca, Mg Ca,P Mg and K respectively.It does depend on the species and your soil.
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Cairns
18th June 2011 8:05am
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Lani says...
Hi all, some pics for you the first one is of my healthy KP tree which is only 3 metres away from the next two trees ,
Can anyone help as to what is causing this problem please?
thanks
Lani
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Lani
Geraldton
5th July 2011 10:05pm
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Lani says...
healthy tree KP
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Lani
Geraldton
5th July 2011 10:12pm
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Lani says...
try again
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Lani
Geraldton
5th July 2011 10:17pm
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Lani says...
unhealthy trees kp
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Lani
Geraldton
5th July 2011 10:18pm
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Lani says...
trunk of one of the unhealthy ones
and clos up of the top
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Lani
Geraldton
5th July 2011 10:19pm
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amanda says...
Hi Lani..the unhealthy one is suffering from wind burn and the bark is sunburnt :(
The healthy one looks great! Is that tap dripping on it or something? More sheltered maybe?

I have one KP and it cops too much wind here in Gero - it hates it :(
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
6th July 2011 9:10am
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Lani says...
Hi Amanda
Thanks for that, appreciate it , so what do you think chop it back to the good parts and hope for the best, we have just recently put that green shadecloth behind the really brown one, we thought maybe it was lacking in something so have put trace elements in it etc, it gets fertilized
but not too often , the healthy tree is around the corner of the shed more so maybe ?? but it gets the same treatment as the others do no the tap is over a trough next to the tree
We also have an R2E2 , and it is great also, but husband likes the KP 's more so wants to try to grow these , very frustrating
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Lani
Geraldton
6th July 2011 10:53am
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amanda says...
Hey Lani...some more info would be good...are you near the beach at all? Are you using scheme water or bore water for them?
The trouble in Gero is that it is a 'salty' place ;) and the scheme water can be really poor quality - depending on which field bore the Water Corp is using. I picked up a kit from Think Water and had our tap water tested (cost $60) and the salt levels were very high...many fruit trees don't appreciate this at all - but mangoe, macadamia and loquat really struggle with it.
Fertilisers can aggravate the problem by adding even more 'salts' - so you need to be careful with them.

The shade cloth will help but keep an eye out for turbulence on the tree side. You can use a white paint on the trunks to prevent sunburn (water based I think? Not sure there) There is also a product called DroughtShield that is good (or even Parasol) - for summer. They are like a sunblock basically.

They need large quantities of water in summer, here, to be really happy. I tend to use liquid fert's in summer - like Powerfeed and Seasol - less chance of 'burning' the trees then - and solid fert's in winter. Get some pig manure from Western Stone..it's fantastic stuff (my trees love it) and work this in with the winter rains...organic matter will help to buffer the salts. Mangoes appreciate some humidity in hot, windy dry weather also (think 40oC with the Easterly...! yukk)

If you have sandy soil there - also get some clay and start working it in too.

You will need to cut back all that dead growth - but wait until spring now.

There are some great mangoe trees in town though so it must be possible!? Good luck :)
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
8th July 2011 11:14am
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Lani says...
Thanks Amanda for all the info, will do and see what happens, appreciate your help, hopefully with all your tips we will see some improvement

Thanks again

Lani
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Lani
Geraldton
11th July 2011 11:01am
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Rana Rehan says...
Dear friend could you guide me in my farm few mango trees suddenly fell down 80% leaves with in 4-5 days i already sprayed fungicide(dithane M-45 and score ) insecticide (salute) ridomil for root infection. applied NPK 100 gm with organic fertilizer but could not find any result . i also examined. is there any cut worm in stem or not
here now temperature is about 46-48 centigrade.
please guide me.
thanks
regards
Rana
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Rana
Qatar
24th July 2011 6:38am
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amanda says...
Hi Rana Rehan...that's not a very happy mangoe tree. Sounds like it might be far too hot and dry for it there - but some of the other members might have better ideas....

What's the humidity like there?
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
24th July 2011 11:01am
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Michael says...
Mango trees in my area ( Sydney south west )are starting to bloom with flower buds. Is this too soon especially since we are still in winter ?
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Michael D
wakeley
8th August 2011 10:11pm
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BJ says...
We had our first blooms around a month ago. I'd expect Sydney's early mangoes to be blooming around now...
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Theposterformerlyknownas
Brisbane
9th August 2011 9:12am
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Mike says...
Nam Dok Mai mangoes have been in the markets here for a few weeks,Sam Ru Du was available right through winter and the first scabby KP's are turning up and it is very early.I am considering planting a dwarf nam dok mai and keeping it under 2m.
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Cairns
19th August 2011 8:22pm
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MariaEl says...
Could anyone tell me please what is the problem with my baby mango? I have it 6 months and recently it has started to appear this brownish on its leaves? Is it a fungus or what?

You can also check the following link for its photo:
http://img225.imageshack.us/content_round.php?page=done&l=img225/8829/210820112967.jpg

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MariaEl
Greece
21st August 2011 9:05pm
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Original Post was last edited: 25th August 2011 8:10am
Brendan says...
Looks like it's lacking Potassium. I'd give it a tablespoon of Potassium (because it's in a pot), and some Gypsum too (either powder or liquid). That should help disperse the 'salts' that appear to be causing the problem.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
23rd August 2011 9:21am
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MariaEl says...
Bredan thank you for your answer. However the attached photo wasn't the one I had posted. So please could you take a look once again in order to be sure that you check the correct problem??? I uploaded the right.
The photo in the link was ok but in the thumbnail was different.. Too strange..
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MariaEl
Greece
25th August 2011 8:12am
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Kman says...
After returning from the garden to find a solution for my mango tree problem - browning curly leaves(just like your photos), after lots of research The issue is when mango trees are under any kind of stress they look like this! My tree is positioned in 88% sun near the bottom of a gradule hill in rich volcanic soil. We leave in a tropical rainforest climate, therefore have high rainfalls. I will guess that mango trees love water but they require GREAT drainage - so the solution for me would be to add alot of river sand to my soils. my tree is only 2.5m tall,so im considering to dig it up and add 1/4 ton sand to the plant site.
Hopefully this will help.
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Kman
byron bay
6th September 2011 5:16pm
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grub says...
hi again
can some one tell me what causes mango leaf crinkle?it started this week it doesnt have mites or aphids unless they are minute ,we have had cold morning with cold winds 6 degress c now this week i did put a 5 cm layer of sheep manure well composted and 15 gms of trace elements then mulched it with lurceren hay and to top it of i sprayed the 30 gms mangozeb and 30 gms copper oxy in 4.5 liters of water with wetting agent i usually use 18 grm of both .and 3 weeks ago i gave it the 2:1:1 blood bone/epson salt/potash mix.. many thanks grub
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24th September 2011 1:04pm
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vickey says...
Hi. I tried to grow my own mangoes and planted stones. Germination was poor but I was succeed to get more than 50 plants out of 250 stones planted in polythene bags. Now I am facing this leaves burning, drying out and at the end stems also dry and plant is wasted. I have tried to change the media and transplanted them into new bags with new media. But again after couple of weeks, same problem occured and I am losing my plants. I also dippped stones in thiophenate methyl solution and irrigated with thiophenate methyl added water. I have also sprayed it to plants too. Please help me in this situation. Thanks
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vickey
Pakistan
2nd October 2011 9:27pm
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amanda says...
Owch Vickey...they look very unhappy. They are "burnt" and you have a serious problem there. It could be all the chemical - if not it's a serious nutrient imbalance (eg: fertiliser or salinity burn)
I don't know much about the chemical you are using and if it can do that - maybe someone else here..?
I would stop using it and see if they improve - if not then you need to look at the fertilisers and water you are using.
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
3rd October 2011 11:26am
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grub says...
looks to be sun burn to me
also are you watering over head with bore water?
as salty/alkaline water does the same thing with mine
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3rd October 2011 5:27pm
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vickey says...
What do you suggest that I should do in this situation?
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vickey
Pakistan
3rd October 2011 7:05pm
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amanda says...
Mangoes are very sensitive to salt vickey - do you have access to fresher water? Rainwater?

Try moving them into a shadier area while they recover. What are you feeding them?

Why are you giving them the thiophenate - is there a problem you are currently treating?
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
4th October 2011 12:20pm
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John I says...
I think my mango tree must be dead. It has been trimmed back but no new growth as yet?
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John I
Castle hill
10th October 2011 12:04pm
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amanda says...
Hi John I - I scalped mine awhile back now - and it's only just starting to shoot now..not sure if u are as warm as here - but give it a bit longer maybe...
If u gently scratch the bark with your finger nail and it's green an/or white underneath - then all is well :)
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
10th October 2011 12:19pm
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John I says...
I think I can see some tiny green specs appearing. How can I protect the new growth from fungus. Do I spray?
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John I
Castle hill
16th October 2011 12:12pm
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Denise says...
Aloha all! I am sitting in my hammock under my 40+ yr old mango tree noticing that the tips of the leaves are turning brown. This tree has not bore fruit in over 8 years. We bought the house 11 years ago and the neighbours said this tree never gave fruit. Well, we watered it and fertilised it & it did for 3 years. Then totally stopped. The last fruit had black spots & never matured.
Trimmed it back pretty good - really thinned it out. Have done that every other year. It grows VERY fast, thick and full.
We have stopped fert & water as that didn't give fruit. Now we are on the windward side of the island about a mile from the ocean. We have pretty steady winds blowing off the water almost all the time. The brown tips are mostly on the ocean side of the tree on old growth. I thought that was how mango tree leaves die naturally! I see this site with talk to salt sensitivity?
By air? Could salt air cause this? If so, should I just leave it. Other trees near us fruit and they are closer to the ocean. Can't tell if they have brown tips though.

Yes I'd love some mango. But more importantly I'd love a healthy old tree. We put a Rapoza in our back yard and that flowers but doesn't fruit. We are mango cursed. :-) Mahalo! Denise
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Denise7
Hawaii
17th October 2011 1:15pm
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Brendan says...
Hi Denise,
Sounds like Anthracnose. You need to spray it with a Copper based fungicide, I use Copper Oxychloride. You must add a wetting agent to make it stick.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
18th October 2011 9:23am
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Rhys says...
Hi, you would of heard this a thousand times before but im a newby to mango growing and we have just moved in to a property with a 10years + tree not sure what kind but assume its a KP. The tree flowered in late august and we had some cold weather and rain and the flowers started going black and the flowers dropping. Now mid october some of the flower stalk have small fruit with black dots. As you do i google it and found out about Anthracnose. I have just sprayed mancozeb. Is there any chance that we will have healthy fruit or would the anthracnose done its damage. It we arent going to get any fruit should i cut off all the dead flowers and fruit and feed with blood and bone and hope it flowers again. Can any one help me. Thanks
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Rhys
Tweed Heads
18th October 2011 9:34pm
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Brendan says...
G'day Rhys,
Yep, that's a classic example of anthracnose. You probably won't get any fruit this year because of it.
Spray with a mix of 30g copper oxychloride, 30g mancozeb plus, in 4½ L water with 'enough' wetting agent to make sure it sticks. Usually about 30ml.
Don't worry about cutting off any dead flowers, they'll drop off, but I always try to burn them.
Back to the spraying, spray once a month (from now), until flowers form next year, then stop spraying. When the tiny fruit have formed, and you think you've got enough fruit, start spraying again, but, spray once a week for 4 weeks. Then spray monthly again till harvest.
I'd fertilize with some sulphate of potash along with the blood n bone:-)
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
19th October 2011 7:42am
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Rhys says...
Hi Brendan,
Thanks heaps for the reply. Now your going to wish you hadnt replied. When spraying how much will 4.5ltr cover and do i drench it or just lightly spray it? I have attached some photos of our tree. under the tree is some grass and dead leaves should i scrape this back to bare earth out to the tree line and then spread the fertilizer and apply mulch. What kind of mulch? and when should i fertilize? As you can see in the photo it needs prunning i have heard that you need to open up the canopy do you think this is what i need to do? I also have a sick avocado tree dont suppose you know about avacado trees?? Thanks again Brendan
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Rhys
Tweed Heads
20th October 2011 2:54pm
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Brendan says...
G'day Rhys,
Check out this video: http://www.abc.net.au/local/videos/2011/05/05/3208266.htm

As for under the tree, sulphate of potash fertilizer will 'harden-up' the trees, handful/sq m, lots of mulch (anything) out to the drip line, but keep away from the trunk. Good luck!
Btw, pic 3 is a perfect example of anthracnose, some of my small avocados are like that. Been sprayed, but rain keeps washing it off :-(
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
21st October 2011 8:43am
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Original Post was last edited: 21st October 2011 8:47am
Rhys says...
Cheers Brendan,
Yeah the rain doesnt help!! Here are some pictures of my avocado tree just starting to flower. I think the bush lemon tree next to it is shading it during the day might have to cut it back a bit. When do avocado trees fruit?
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Rhys
Tweed Heads
22nd October 2011 12:21am
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Brendan says...
Hi Rhys,
Different avo varieties fruit at different times of the year, that's why I have about 10 trees, to have fruit all year round.
Winter seems to be main fruiting time.

Pic is my 2 year-old Lamb Hass avocado tree. Note the mulch etc:-)
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
22nd October 2011 7:19am
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Original Post was last edited: 22nd October 2011 7:34am
David says...
Back to Vicki in Pakistan with your seedling problem, did you solve your problem? I had a similar problem with some seedlings. If they have been in full sun I would put under shadecloth, which is recommended for mango seedlings. I am not sure what caused the issue with mine, although in that small greenhouse I had the seedlings in I did have a rot rot infection which claimed some of the seedlings as I was maintaining too much moisture. A root rot soil drench will help cure this. Trouble is, by the time you see the symptoms coming up the stem the seedling is gone. I used Fongarid (by Syngenta) to treat for root rot and dropped the moisture levels. I think the root rot fungus was pythium.
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David1
Perth
23rd October 2011 2:43am
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hunny says...
hi,how much mancozeb we should use per tree or acer?
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hunny
pakistan
24th October 2011 11:00am
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Brendan says...
Hi hunny, check out the video I posted above to Rhys. Try to buy Mancozeb Plus (not plain mancozeb). You'll need Copper Oxychloride, a good wetting agent as well.
Btw, it's 30 grams of each to 4½ litres of water.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
25th October 2011 9:07am
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John I says...
Hi Amanda
.

Finally my mango is starting to sprout after I took the chain saw to it. Now as these new branches start to enter the world should i just leave them alone or should I spray them with Mancozeb +++
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John I
Castle hill
7th November 2011 4:47pm
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Original Post was last edited: 7th November 2011 4:49pm
Rana Rehan says...
Dear friend could you guide me I am from Qatar middle east. here humidity now 45% but sometimes it goes to 60% temperature 18-34C soil pH 7-8 composition of soil 55% sand 30% clay 10% organic ferlilizer and 5% peatmoss wind NW 14 Km/hr.i would like to know about my mango plants. There is not any healthy growth plants are dieing due to the die back disease. you just look at pictures.
i weakly spray with score 250EC(difenoconazole)0.5ml/liter and Dithanne M-45 2gm/liter but there is not good result. right now i am using Miller nutrileaf to get healthy growth for my mango. but it is seemed same before.
please help me
thanks
regards
Rana
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Rana
Doha Qatar
12th November 2011 3:17am
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Rana Rehan says...
Dear Rodney
As i have seen these pictures. its powdery mildew that is usually caused by fungus Erysiphe cichoracearum, Oidium asteris-punicei and Oidium mangiferae. you can use any copper based fungicide to cure this disease
good luck
regards
rana rehan

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Rana
Doha Qatar
12th November 2011 3:37am
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Graeme says...
What I find interesting is one of the soil types is affected. Do you have any native forest dieback in your area.
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14th November 2011 12:08pm
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Rana Rehan says...
it could be possible because my mango farm just near the forest area and how can i treat my soil to get disease free please guide me
thanks
rana rehan
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Rana
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17th November 2011 3:46am
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David says...
Rana, have you tested the level of salts in your soil and irrigation water? Mangoes do not like high salinity levels. Another thought I had was lime toxicity which occurs in areas with high limestone deposits. The high ph causes mineral deficiency which ultimately kills the tree. Are either of these possible in your area?
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David1
Perth
20th November 2011 2:18am
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John I says...
As I have mentioned before I have new growth coming on. I dont want to damage the new growth so should I just leave it alone or spray it so disease doesnt take hold??
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John I
Castle hill
22nd November 2011 12:12pm
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grub says...
rana are you using bore water looks like a alkline problem we suffer here in the south west....
it looks like the problem i had earlier this year ,i had my water tested and my ph was 8.5 and the salts were 400 ppm
my trees that got water on the leaves look the same as yours, the leafs went grey and all crinkle and dry ..
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23rd November 2011 6:46pm
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amanda says...
Hey grub - shame about that pH for your bore water..? Our tap (!) water is pH 8 so not that far behind you. It's good u had it tested tho. I am wondering if the quality of some WA bore water might be getting worse due the dry conditions..?
Did the testing company give you any advice re: the salt levels?
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
23rd November 2011 7:56pm
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grub says...
hi amanda
the only advice they gave me was the salts would drop this year as we had a good rain fall
they said it water im drawing from the bore was from the rain fall 2 years ago
oh and the other advice was not to top up the water my marron dam with the water
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27th November 2011 12:16pm
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amanda says...
Hey grub - some of the guys up here "shandy" their bore water with scheme water. It's to reduce the salt content being applied - but if your scheme water has a lower pH it might work for u too..?

U can get a pool water pH test kit pretty cheap - maybe it's worth checking out.
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
27th November 2011 11:51pm
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John I says...
I guess no one knows??
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John I
Castle hill
29th November 2011 4:53pm
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amanda says...
Maybe it's a mangoe fire blight?

http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0018/413631/Fire-blight-flyer.pdf

http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0009/120114/blight-disease-mango.pdf
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amanda19
Geraldton. Mide West WA.
29th November 2011 5:39pm
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Original Post was last edited: 29th November 2011 5:44pm
John I says...
Its Ok,I have been ignored by much better people.
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John I
Castle hill
1st December 2011 5:37pm
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amanda says...
Can a mangoe person help John I..? his question got lost in the thread? (22/11) (sorry John I - thought u were talking about Rana's Qu.. :)
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amanda19
Geraldton, Mid West WA
1st December 2011 7:16pm
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Salina DK says...
Hello everyone.

Denmark calling with a "giant" mango problem.

All my mangos are grown in pots indoors since the weather here are not mangofriendly. But suddenly 4 out 9 plants started to get brown tips on the leaves, spreading inwards and then the whole leaf is brown and crispy. it started from the bottom and then went upwards to the top.

my plants dont soak in water and i have used citrus fertilizer (was that bad or?) since i cant really get a real mango fertilizer here in Denmark.

Can i mix my own or is the Citrus okay to use on mangos?

i hope you can help me
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Salina DK
 
22nd December 2011 3:56pm
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David says...
John, can you please give a fresh summary of your issue.

Salina, citrus should be OK, how much fertalizer do you apply? I am thinking maybe too much?
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David1
Perth
23rd December 2011 1:51am
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Salina DK says...
Only a tad every other week. i have grolight on them and the rest of my babies in these dark times here.

im thinking that somehow it could be a delayed reaction perhaps from when i gave them tapwater?

now and for a good while i only ever water with rainwater.

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Salina DK
Denmark
23rd December 2011 1:58am
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David says...
Salina, I think the demand for nutrients during your winter would be very low. In pots it is easy to get a build up of salts. If possible you may check the EC (electrical conductivity ) of your soil to see if this has happened. Here are a couple of links that might help:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tropicalfruits/msg0701133317521.html

http://www.pir.sa.gov.au/pirsa/more/factsheets/fact_sheets/salinity/testing_for_soil_and_water_salinity
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David1
Perth
24th December 2011 2:08am
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John I says...
I cut my mango tree right back because it had a disease issue. Now that the new branches are coming through should I just leave them alone or should I spray them?
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Castle Hill
7th January 2012 2:09pm
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Selfsufficientme says...
Wow! This is a huge thread on mango tree issues (mostly issues) and it shows what a pain it is growing this fruit . When i lived in Darwin i saw people harvesting disease free mangoes from large trees growing carefree in the local parks - made me think growing them would be easy. What a shame i too will now cut my tree back harshly in frustration to see if i can beat the diseases and make a productive fruiting tree instead of a shade maker. If only my mangoes grew as good as my oranges... :)
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Selfsufficientme
Bellmere
7th January 2012 3:02pm
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David says...
John, if you've already had problems I would use the Mangozeb / copper oxychloride with wetter as a precaution against reocurrance. I don't know how much you cut back, but I usually paint over cut limbs with a plastic or acrylic paint to seal against infection.
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David1
Perth
8th January 2012 1:25am
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Twampes says...
Hello every body,

I've got a mango plant, planted from sead.
I live in Holland so the winters are very cold, so i keep it inside in winter.
In summer i put the plant outside, my plant is now a year old and know the leaves are turning brown. First just one, but now almost all leaves ar getting dangerously brown. So I'm worryd about my plant, and i hoped some can tell me what it is and what to do.
I added some pics so you can see.

thank you
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Twampes
Holland
11th January 2012 3:52am
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Twampes says...
PS it started with this, it made me worry butt it took a long time before the all started to ge brown
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Twampes
Holland
11th January 2012 3:55am
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Twampes says...
sorry, here's a better resolution pic
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Twampes
Holland
11th January 2012 3:59am
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David says...
I think maybe over-fertalizing, in which case the same advice as to Salina would apply. I would avoid having the soil moist all the time as too frequent watering may invite fungal infection.
Do you know what type of mango it was that you got the seed from? Some varieties can grow true to type from seed. I think most of the varieties sold in Europe will not be true to type, so if it is one of these then it can also possibly be a weak seedling .
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David1
Perth
19th January 2012 1:19am
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Twampes says...
Thanks for your reply David!

I don't know what type of seed/mango it was. It's just some mango from the super market. I don't use any fertalizing. Only the ground I put it in had some white (small) balls with nitrate and such. But the weird thing is dat it growd super nice and after a year it started to gow brown. Also I repotted the plant a few months ago, mayve this has some thing to do with it.
And the plant is now making new leaves as if theres nothing wrong.
And a alsways use water from the tap, maybe there is to much chloride or salt, or lime?
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Twampes
Holland
19th January 2012 11:51pm
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David says...
Yes, I think checking the salt levels is a good idea.
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David1
Perth
20th January 2012 1:28am
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Twampes says...
I want to check the salt levels, but 1 read on the internet that you need some kind of instrument for it. I don't have this instrument, and don't want to pay 50 euros for it. so is there a simple way for checking the salt level without buying the instrument?
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Twampes
 
22nd January 2012 2:02am
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grub says...
hi twampes
id say its a combination of salts and ph in the water .. at a guess are you overhead watering?..
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23rd January 2012 1:07pm
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Twampes says...
No just from the tap, I pore some water in the pot every 3 days or so. trying to keep the soil wet at all times, maybe this what I did wrong. Now I water less then I did before. Hoping it will result in a healthyer plant. Butt most of the leaves are dead, and a few already fell of.
I also want to try en flush the whole pot with water for a few minutes, so al the salt can disolve en come out at the bottom. because now I'm watering so that no water comes out of the bottom(sow the salt level keeps rising)
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Twampes
 
26th January 2012 3:22am
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Kathy says...
Twampes - I don't know about salt levels in water in the Netherlands but just a few other things to consider.
I guess you are in the middle of your winter - so your plant has been indoors now for a few months? Has the main problem started in these indoor months? If so maybe your plant is not getting enough sun. I see you have it by the window - but does a LOT of sun come in there?
I'd think it is a good idea to let the soil in the pot DRY OUT and then water - for example water only once the soil is dry. Don't let the saucer under the pot accumulate water - otherwise the tree is sitting in water - which it might not like.
Here in Maleny (where winter can be cold for Queensland conditions e.g. from 4 to 21 degrees celsius)- mango trees can lose their leaves during winter - and when spring arrives - they get beautiful new leaves.
Good luck! I guess you are growing for the leaves not any possibility of fruit? If you want fruit I think you need to buy a grafted mango (so you know the quality of the fruit you'll get.
Kathy
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kathyturner
Maleny, Qld
26th January 2012 7:40am
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Original Post was last edited: 26th January 2012 7:42am
fire says...
i use my garden hose with weed be gone lock and spray bottle with hose connection,or any such type.
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31st January 2012 5:28am
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Herman says...
Hi all!

I've been growing a couple of mangoes from seeds to be used as root stocks. They are 5 months old, and recently I've noticed some brown/dark brown discoloration, especially on the tips, of a few leaves. Anyone have ideas what they are caused by? I'm using 1:1:1 turface, pine bark, and granite grit so drainage is excellent; I don't think it's an overwatering issue. I don't think it is over fertilizing either. I only feed them liquid kelp at half the labelled doses.

Thanks in advance!

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Herman
 
11th February 2012 3:35pm
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denise. says...
From the photo it appears you have a soilless mix. Sometimes I have gone fancy with potting mix such as yours and results can be poor. Roots need some proper soil or composted mix which serves to buffer against any buildup of chemicals etc and allow beneficial fungi etc. Try adding real soil or totally replace with a proper potting mix. Soil-less mixes are more suited to hydroponic techniques.
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12th February 2012 6:51am
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Herman says...
Thanks for your input Denise.

I've had some really bad experiences with soils in pots, i.e. root rot. So I'm trying out this mix.
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12th February 2012 7:18am
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fregarr says...
I've a mango tree that grew from a potted seed and transferred to solid ground. Is about a year old. It has been growing OK, but I started noticing some of its leaves tips turning brown. Take a look at the picture. Is that a decease or some that can be cure to help him grow healthy?Please advise.
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Fregarr
Margate, FL
17th March 2012 12:27am
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Brendan says...
Hi fregarr, we call that leaf-tip-burn, or salt/sodium burn. Try some sulphate of potash & gypsum. Is the tree mulched?
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
20th March 2012 9:44am
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Rana Rehan says...
Dear fregarr, it could be high concentration of salt in the water you are using for irrigating your plant
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Rana
Abu Dhabi
21st March 2012 3:25am
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denise says...
I have not been happy with mancozeb for treating mango with symptoms of anthracnose. Previously I was lucky to get one fruit per bunch. Copper sprays only helped a little. I got some TARATEK-5F and have a nice bunch of six fruit already. Spray the flowers and also infected foliage or even all the foliage- at intervals of 10 to 21 days. After about 3 times the set fruit will have grown enough to be firmly attached and it is possible they wont need further sprays. The beauty of the Taratek is that it is systemic so that helps where it is hard to get 100% coverage. I did mine each 14 days. The whole job is easier if you can control the size of the tree- which is easier done starting pruning etc right from the beginning. A restricted root zone will help there.
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21st March 2012 7:58am
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denise says...
For mango trees that are barren from having no flowers OR, for bringing forward flowering for making earlier harvests, the following will cause buds to appear quickly and become flowers. Spray the leaves with 10g per litre of potassium nitrate. Buds should appear at 2 to 3 weeks and bloom within a month. Only spray once with a thorough drench. The main cause of trees not flowering is that there is a lack of a colder/damp dormancy season. The tree will only respond if it is physiologically ready to bear. A normal tree can be encouraged to bear up to 3 months early to have profitable extension of the season or to advance the crop into a less stressful time for the tree.
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21st March 2012 8:13am
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denise says...
I looked up the specs for Taratek 5F, and it is very toxic. I wouldnt recommend spraying large trees with it because of drift. It would be more suitable for small trees and wear protective clothing. Pity as it is so successful otherwise.
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21st March 2012 10:42am
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fregarr says...
Yes, it is mulched
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Fregarr
Margate, FL
22nd March 2012 10:29pm
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fregarr says...
Hi Rana. I water the plant with the city water. How can I measure the amount of salt in it?
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Fregarr
Margate, FL
22nd March 2012 10:36pm
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Mike says...
Mangoes hate chlorides and the chloride component of salt is just as nasty as the sodium part.Chlorinated water and fertiliser chlorides can cause tip burning the same way as sodium chloride does.Fregarr, if you can't taste the salt it is probably ok.
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Cairns
22nd March 2012 10:40pm
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amanda says...
Here is a quick link for chloride vs chlorine:
http://www.alcanada.com/index_htm_files/Chlorine%20vs%20Chloride.pdf

The best way is to get your water tested by a Lab...ask your local irrigation specialist to put u onto someone. It's not expensive, in the scheme of things (cost me $60 for a full and comprehensive analysis - and interpretation)

No offence Mike - but tasting is irrelevant. The tolerance for salt (in parts per million etc) for plants is way, way below any animal with kidneys.

Chlorine can be evaporated off...the sodium can be flushed..the chloride (salt) is the big baddy here...there is no current remedy/instant cure for this.

The best you can do is to learn correct irrigation techniques...reduce fertiliser salts and use compost...(in short)
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amanda19
Geraldton. 400km north of Perth.
22nd March 2012 11:15pm
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amanda says...
Oh..and any time your water is not within the Customer Charter...do u have to pay for it? Can you expect a discount maybe..?
Those Mission Statements etc...are worth reading guys...phone, power, water etc...
What IS your water quality charter? Do you even know?
In the 3rd world u wouldn't care...but u also would not be paying for your tap water either...? Horses for courses.

(was that good 4 U john...? ;-)
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amanda19
Geraldton. 400km north of Perth.
23rd March 2012 1:31am
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fregarr says...
Thank you Mike and Amanda for your input. Mike, since you mentioned mulch, I figured that it was not good for the plant health so I removed it from the tree's bed and replaced it with fresh soil. I noticed ants coming out of it roots. I treated it with a bug killer spray.
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Fregarr
Margate, FL
27th March 2012 12:28am
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Brendan says...
Hi fregarr, mulch is good! Just make sure it doesn't touch the trunk, and mulch out to and past the dripline.

Try giving the whole area a good dose of gypsum, say 4 handfuls / sq metre, this WILL help displace the salts in your soil. If you can buy liquid gypsum, I'd use that as well.

Sulphate of Potash will help too, it hardens-up the tissue of the plant, making it more resistant to leaf-tip-burn etc.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
27th March 2012 8:28am
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fregarr says...
Thank you Brendan, I will follow your instructions about mulch and the the use of gypsum and sulphate of potash. I will send you an update in the months to come.
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Fregarr
Margate, FL
30th March 2012 8:51am
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Fregarr says...
My mango tree keeps growing up beautifully, but I haven't been able to stop the leaves tips to turn brown, as a matter of fact, I'm beginning to notice brown spots in some of the leaves. Brendan, where I can get the Gypsum and the Sulphate or Potash that you recommend? My tree is about a year old and I would like him to grow healthy. Thank you for your help.
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Fregarr
Margate, FL
8th May 2012 2:25pm
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Brendan says...
Hi Fregarr, in Australia we can buy them at most nurseries, farmers co-op and hardware stores. Maybe try a google search for your area? They are freely available here in Aus., but the sulphate of potash is getting expensive :-(
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
10th May 2012 8:46am
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Original Post was last edited: 10th May 2012 8:53am
Fregarr says...
I went to Home Depot and they didn't have the Gypsum. They have something that have potash but didn't say Sulphate of Potash and this is a fertilizer that you have to insert in the ground around 36 in apart around the tree or the drip area. My plant is not a grown tree, so the drip area does not extend that far. I showed a damaged leave at the manager and he said that the plant is infected with a fungous. He recommended me to treat the plant with a product that contains 1.34% of Bacillus Subtilis. This product you have to hose it down. I got the product and started the treatment. I have to repeat it every 7 days. I'll see how it goes.
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Fregarr
Margate, FL
12th May 2012 6:42am
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Brendan says...
Hi Fregarr, we can also buy liquid gypsum here, try to buy that.
If they have Potassium Sulphate, that's the same as Sulphate of Potash. Please don't use Muriate of Potash.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
13th May 2012 8:02am
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grub says...
off the subject but when is the best time to graft mangoes ?
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grub
dardanup
14th May 2012 6:38pm
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Brendan says...
Hi grub, depends where you live, but usually just before the sap starts flowing and the tree is dormant, just before new leaves/shoots appear. (if that makes sense).

Up here, that's about now, although there's some trees in Mky in full flower at the moment? Probably because of the cold weather, it's 8ºC here this morning!
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
15th May 2012 6:43am
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grub says...
thanks brenden
i had a felling is was around that time
my mangoes start to crank up about november i have found some r2e2 and a nam doc mi in harvey so im keen to graft them this year ..the nam doc my has fruit on it an its just started flowing again and it the start of winter here ,,heres the mangoes from harvey the middle one is a nam doc mi the other 2 are bown and the fruit are over a kg each
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grub
dardanup
15th May 2012 3:12pm
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Brendan says...
That's unreal you have mangoes on now grub! I know the nam doc mi is usually late to fruit (up here), but I've never seen them with fruit in May.

If they were mine, I'd add a lot more mulch, keeping it away from the trunk, because they look to be growing in sand.
I suppose everything in wa has to grow in sand? I'd make the mulch 200mm thick :-)
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
16th May 2012 8:41am
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amanda says...
Nice work grub! The trees look good too - are u using your bore water anymore..?
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amanda19
Geraldton. 400km north of Perth.
16th May 2012 11:58am
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grub says...
gidday amanda yes still using the bore water had to do bit of work getting my ph right in the soil and is has all come good and a regular does of potash has them looking good
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grub
dardanup
23rd May 2012 8:51pm
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amanda says...
That's good work grub! U must be happy :) I am down in Leschenault in next few days to look at a property...so we may be near neighbours this year :) I hope there is a gardening club or such down that way..?
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amanda19
Geraldton. 400km north of Perth.
23rd May 2012 10:12pm
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grub says...
hi amanda you would be correct australind is close enought to be neibours .lucky you know about sandy soil,doesnt get any sandier than australind.lol
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grub
dardanup
25th May 2012 4:36pm
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amanda says...
Sandier than I realised grub!? :-O I am going to bite the bullet and throw that Soil Solver aound everywhere this time! :)

But I am not seeing any signs of salinity porblems on the fruit trees etc..Nor any deficiency problems even on neglected citrus. The bore water is loaded with iron isn't it.

Finegrs crossed this time! :)

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amanda19
Geraldton. 400km north of Perth.
26th May 2012 9:58am
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Maryam says...
Hi guys, I'm quite new in the mango world and I would appreciate your help. I have planted mango from seed about 7 months ago. As many of you have experienced, the leaves on my mango are turning brown, curl and eventy fall. In addition, the new leaves are very sticky. I water it once a week, actually when I see that the surface is dry. The new leaves are very light green and healthy looking, unfortunately after some time the tips start turning brown. Please help
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Maryam
Uae
13th August 2012 2:16am
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jana says...
Hello!
Our garden has three trees which we assume to be some kind of mango. Since a while now, the leaves continually go brown and fall off the tree. Apart from that it seems rather healthy, it grows new leaves and they are in full flower right now.
Are we dealing with some kind of fungus or is this due to a high salt content in the soil? I would really appreciate if someone can help us out!
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jana
Sydney
27th September 2012 11:23am
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Original Post was last edited: 27th September 2012 11:28am
Nick T says...
Hey guys, what's wrong with my mango tree? It seems to have become infected with some sort of disease over our wet winter...
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
27th September 2012 4:16pm
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David_WM says...
It looks like apical necrosis, a bacterial infection which occurs in regions which have cold wet winters. It is spread by rain and enters the leaf through any injuries. So wind and rain is bad as the wind creates abrasions on the leaves which helps the bacteria enter. There is no treatment in Australia, only preventative by spraying with Copper oxychloride to help reduce disease presence. Older trees are less affected.
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DavidWM1
Perth
27th September 2012 11:49pm
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Peter says...
Picture 3 looks like Anthracnose, so a fungal problem. It lives in there without causing too much problems during most of the year, but in cold winters (Victoria!) the trees get pretty stressed and all sorts of fungi take advantage of that. I would not wonder, if bacteria are involved as well.
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Peter in Perth
Perth
28th September 2012 9:55am
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Nick T says...
Thanks Peter David! Would it be wise to remove all the diseased material before spraying? Luckily I have some copper oxychloride, so I'll give the tree a good spray as soon as this rain clears up.
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Nick T
Altona, VIC
28th September 2012 10:29am
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Original Post was last edited: 28th September 2012 10:31am
Peter in Perth says...
Good idea to cut back the diseased material (well below the border between healthy and diseased) and spray. But keep in mind that it is not possible to completely get rid of it as you won't see a lot of the infected areas where the tree can (still) defend itself. With more stress these areas will then turn black as well, but fungicides will help to control it. For this reason we get the black spots on actual mango fruits. The fruits look fine at harvest, but suddenly fungi like Colletotrichum sp. switch to their aggressive mode (postharvest disease). Good thing is it is warming up now and your mango tree moves towards better conditions, so you will get plenty of healthy new shoots below your prune (Fingers crossed!).
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Peter in Perth
Perth
28th September 2012 12:44pm
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Brendan says...
Hi Nick T, check out Tom's video about anthracnose:
http://www.abc.net.au/local/videos/2011/05/05/3208266.htm?site=capricornia

As he says, the wetting agent is the key.
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Brendan
Mackay, Q
29th September 2012 6:23am
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wd says...
xure uie!!!!
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wd
wd
9th January 2013 1:16pm
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wd says...
xure uie!!!!
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wd
wd
9th January 2013 1:16pm
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wd says...
xure uie!!!!
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wd
wd
9th January 2013 1:16pm
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wd says...
xure uie!!!!
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wd
wd
9th January 2013 1:16pm
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wd says...
xure uie!!!!
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wd
wd
9th January 2013 1:16pm
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wd says...
xure uie!!!!
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wd
wd
9th January 2013 1:16pm
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Rana says...
Dear Nick, it seems like Anthracnose, caused by fungi you should cut the infected branches and spray with copper oxychloride.Thinning trees to allow for better air movement and sunshine may help. On trees in lawns and in nursery stock, anthracnose disease can be controlled by destroying the fungi in its over-wintering stage. Leaves should be raked, and infected twigs and branches pruned. spray fungicide after prunnning and if possible take some Neem leaves and fumigate the tree in night time.
Good Luck...
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Rana
Abu Dhabi UAE
16th January 2013 12:22am
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skip says...
Help please, This is my mango tree, its nearly a year old and it lives in a raised vege patch in back yard, it get pretty good sun ratio and as vege's still grow around it (capsicum, tomato and beetroots) I think the soil health is pretty good. The mango tree damage has increased in recent months so I am not sure if it is a cold weather issue (perth) or a disease. please help. thanks in advance
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skip
secret harbour
9th August 2013 1:17pm
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David_WM says...
Hi Skip, I can't see too well because the thumbnails don't enlarge for me when I click on them. But from what I can see its not too much to worry about for this time of year as with the cold wet weather they can get knocked around a bit. Its good to spray with a mix of copper oxychloride and mangozeb just now as they are quite vulnerable to fungal and other disease in this cool wet windy time of year. On the coast where you are it is good if you can make sure they are sheltered from the southwest wind and get full sun. After the spray and a couple of months with warmer weather it should look better.
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DavidWM1
Perth
10th August 2013 1:01am
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skip says...
thank you david for the advice in your reply, sadly it does get windy in the harbour, I do have a small wind break up for the northerly wind and a fence reduces the southerly wind.
I will spray asap and hope to have a happy tree
thanks again
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skip
secret harbour
13th August 2013 6:23pm
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eeling says...
Hi! I need help, my mango tree is a year and half old and it's leaves has gradually turned horribly wrong. I have it in a pot and in the corner of the patio close to windows so it gets the morning and noon sun. I first thought it was lack of water in summer and towards cooler months i have decreased the watering but leaves still look like it is lack of something, i feed it seasol and fruit fertiliser two during cooling months so far. Now seeing black spots on leaves and on stems. Please help!
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eeling
wandina
16th August 2013 10:48pm
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David_WM says...
It doesn't look too good. What potting medium do you have it in? I think maybe it does not drain enough or has been kept too wet. Why do you keep it indoors? It looks like it is not getting enough light. Can you put in in a position where it get full sun in a sheltered position outside?
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DavidWM1
Perth
17th August 2013 1:13am
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eeling says...
hi david, the potting mix is just potting mix material from the shop and yes, i forgot to take the saucer out and had the poor plant sitting in it. it is inside to stop the wind from getting it. i will have to move it outside now. is there anything else i can do to help it recover? i see the top two stems going black. I hope I havent left it too late to save it.

have it outside now but not sure if it will be protected from the wind, i may have to move it out of the wind when it does get very windy bcos here in geraldton, it gets very windy. i hope this will help the tree.

the tree looks in a very bad way, worse than yesterday!
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eeling
wandina
17th August 2013 9:55am
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Original Post was last edited: 17th August 2013 11:11am
David_WM says...
It is good practice to spray for anthracnose with copper oxychloride and managozeb, but that diseasesare generally introduced by the wind and rain, and as your plant has been kept away from the elements I doubt that they are the problem. I expect your issues are with the soil conditions. It may be an idea to drench the pot with fungicide in case any nasties have set up in the soil. I noticed that you can get small satchets of fongarid in Bunnings now. Giving the soil a treatment with that may help. Mangos are pretty tough, but sometimes by the time they show trouble it is too late to fix the problem. keep the pot well elevated so it drains freely and let it dry between watering. With the weather we've had lateley I doubt it'll need much watering. You do have a healthy terminal shoot coming on, so hopefully the next flush will do better.
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DavidWM1
Perth
17th August 2013 11:30pm
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amanda says...
eeling, your tree is burnt - from salts - either in your water supply or from over fertilising...

When I lived in Geraldton (north side) I had our tap water tested and it came back as Class 3 Salinity - which is very high for salt sensitive plants (mangoe, loquat, avocado, macadamia: I had major dramas with..)

If you have rain water then use this as much as possible. Stick to a gentle slow release fertiliser (like blood and bone with 10% potash) - use little and often - especially as it's in a pot.

I know you are close to the coast there - so wash the leaves with rain water often as well.
You are going to have a very tough job growing a mangoe there I'm afraid.. :-(

If u go to Think Water you can pick up a water test pack to send off (costs about $60)
Worth it if you are wanting to grow fruit trees there...

Never leave the pot sitting in a dish of water when u have high saline water - or have fertilised...
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amanda19
Leschenault (150km south of Perth)
18th August 2013 10:58am
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eeling says...
hi david and amanda,

i left the pot out in the sun yesterday and have managed to dry the soil partly and the dish is gone, silly me, and rushed out to get something for the fungicide. the lady at bunnings gave me lime sulfur, i was desperate before i got ur post david, and gave it a good dose of it.

i also snuck a bottle of mancozeb in the trolley but need the copper stuff and wetting agent wayne from above post has mentioned and was thinking of spraying that in a couple weeks. i now have the tree moved out of the inner patio and closer to the outside but undercover, just the wind is relentless.

Yes amanda, we have rainwater, in future, mental check on my part to remember, i will water it with that, i remember my mango seedlings going in this fashion and i thought too much seasol or burnt from sun. i will have to get more supplies from bunnings to nurture back my sad tree.

Yes, it is true Amanda, very hard to grow anything tropical here, but i will try and will go checkout Think Water for a water test pack. maybe that could be why my curry tree, mint and lavendar isnt doing well, always looking burnt when i have watered it from tap.

Thank you David and Amanda for your help and tip, i really appreciate it. will check back soon to let you guys know how everything went.
Thank you again.
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eeling
wandina
18th August 2013 11:55am
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vlct says...
Did grub mention how old his seedling bowens where ?
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vlct
glenelg
9th September 2013 4:09pm
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Anonymous says...
You need to add some washed filling sand/potting mix sand /lawn topping sand to soil to accelerate the drying time/make it more free draining of soil medium.Put in 3 to 4 handfuls over the top and water in. Use low salt water.Either rainwater or filtered tapwater.Cease fertliser applications.Use low salt residue fertilisers such as Nitraphoska if you must.Remove any mulches allow it to dry out.Do not over water/fertilise .Put plant outside to help it dry out.Plants need both a wet cycle and drying out cycle.Good luck.
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AC1
 
21st September 2013 9:00pm
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vlct says...
Gday, my 2 year old bowen seeding mango is flowering for it's first time. It's only 4ft and I'd prefer it be putting on growth. Is there anything I can do. Or just leave it.
Cheers
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vlct
glenelg
20th October 2013 12:40pm
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vlct says...
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glenelg
20th October 2013 7:00pm
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Brain says...
that's very impressive - flowers at 2 years! You can take the flower spikes off but it may or may not flower again in the same season, it really depends on the plant and the weather.

I recall reading that if you have excessive nitrogen, the mangos goes into green growth but not fruit production.
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Brain
Brisbane
21st October 2013 12:12pm
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vlct says...
Yeah, I was some what disappointed it's flowering. as I've just top pruned the main 5 limbs and now il end up w ten flower spikes and I really need to make the most out of our shorter growing season. dumping heaps of N would prob lead to leaf burn.
Do flower spikes only form on the tips ?
Thanks ..
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vlct
glenelg
21st October 2013 1:14pm
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Brain says...
the flower can grow out of any nodes, which are mainly concentrated at the tips, especially since you tip pruned them.

my experience with a few of the grafted ones is that the flower mainly comes from green wood - newish growth, anywhere from the tip to 1/3 down.
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Brain
Brisbane
21st October 2013 4:59pm
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vlct says...
Ok thanks, there's some shoots forming where internodes more compact.
Wait and see I gues.
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vlct
glenelg
21st October 2013 6:19pm
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AliUAE says...
New to the Forum...
2 years old Mango Plant leafs going brown and fall off starting from the bottom of the trunk upwards, appreciate any cure recommendation.
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AliUAE
UAE
10th November 2013 9:59pm
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Brain says...
AliUAE, without any pictures of your tree or leaves, it is hard to give you an answer.

Based on my experience, (and may not be relevant to you), it seems natural. As the tree grow, new shoots and leaves are focused on the top and the trunk leaves shed off. This is particularly for below the graft. I guess what I am saying is, the tree is transitioning from a seedling state (which the rootstock is) to a tree state.

Provided your scion's leaves are green and lush, then you prob have nothing to worry about.
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Brain
Brisbane
11th November 2013 2:13pm
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Nanik says...
Hi, I am Nanik and I have been growing my Mango fruit for 7 years. Every year they are blooming really well and turned into small Mangoes. Unfortunately they are all falling off. Not even 1 mango got into the egg size. The leafs look healthy and everything else seems normal. Can you please help?
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Nanik
Guildford
29th November 2013 1:23pm
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mojo says...
I recently moved to Northampton WA a couple of years ago and inherited 1 mango tree on my 5 acre block and decided to add a few more as i have had nothing but disasters in the past due to very bad soil and i figured if one will grow, so will more, then i discovered there are a lot of mango plots around town with several hundred tree's on them so i was in the right area. I am now up to 12 tree's and gaining confidence and with all the great help and advice on this forum i am sure things will improve over time.
Keep up the great help because without it we will get nowhere.
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mojo
Northampton WA
7th December 2013 12:40pm
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phil@tyalgum says...
Did you plant different varieties mojo? Hope they ripen at different times otherwise you're gonna be up to your waist in mangoes ;-)
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phil@tyalgum
Murwillumbah
7th December 2013 2:00pm
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mojo says...
Hi phil@tyalgum
I inherited a KP already established on the block, my neighbor gave me another (it was in the way of his new shed he was building) so i dug it up with a bobcat,I brought a Grafted R2E2, Grafted Dwarf King Tai, Grafted Keo Savoy, and another Grafted one i forgot the name of (my grandaughter stole all the tage of them) from Bloomings nursery in Wannaroo Perth and my brother gave me 3 KP's he grew from seed of my mothers 30 year KP in Perth and a couple of KP's from Bunnings in Geraldton so i have bit of a mixture, and i was introduced to one of the local Mango farmers this week who has six hundred tree's mostly KP's, but the one's i am interested in are Apple, Strawberry, Banana, and Pineapple ? i don't know where all the fancy names come from but they sound nice and i have the room to plant them, so my next trick will be grafting ha ha.
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mojo
Northampton WA
9th December 2013 11:16am
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phil@tyalgum says...
k - I read an old article recently that mangoes can also be air layered if it is done about 10 weeks before they start to flower so I guess mid to late winter depending on the variety.
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phil@tyalgum
Murwillumbah
9th December 2013 11:30am
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Brain says...
Nanik, it can be a natural occurance for the tree to fruit and drop off when they are tiny size. The fact that it did flower and fruit means you've done something right.

If the fruit is dropping due to some spots/fungal attack, then spray. Otherwise the tree maybe lacking nutrients for the fruit to size.

And Mojo, if you managed to find those mangos, let us know. :) I read that those varieties were introduced to Aus as part of a mango program back at the 60s/70s.
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Brain
Brisbane
9th December 2013 12:26pm
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mojo says...
Hi guys
Never thought of air layering, that might be worth a try as well as grafting, and as for the fancy named mangos i mentioned earlier, the owner called them a fruit salad or cocktail collection they got from Darwin several years ago, and i asked if it was possible for some cutting and was told "no problems" so when i get some root stock to graft onto i will take it from there and let you know the outcome.
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mojo
Northampton WA
10th December 2013 9:35am
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Brain says...
mojo, you can always use your existing mango trees to graft onto. I.e. just select a few branches (and label). If do the grafts of all the varieties onto one tree, then you'd truely have a 'fruit salad'. I've read some guy in the US has more than 100 varieties of citrus in one tree, and maybe you can set the record for mangos. :)
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Brain
Brisbane
10th December 2013 10:38am
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mojo says...
Good idea Brian, i have two KP's big enough to chop and splice heaps and probably four smaller one's can handle a few. I just need the weather to settle down as we had a hail storm yesterday and thought i would loose what few mangos i had, but all it did was wash off all my mancozeb + and copper oxy and i did not loose one single mango...lucky. Has anyone heard of a mango tree called "Fallon" it was hand written on the pot from Bloomings Nursery and i cannot find any reference to it anywhere except they told me it came from Darwin.
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mojo
Northampton WA
12th December 2013 2:40am
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Brain says...
My guess is the fallon is a phonetic spelling variation of the Thai mango type known as Thunder mango (Falan/Falang/Fralan/Fah-Lahn/-lunn). If memory serves me, BJ knows all about them.

They are quite rare and if it is indeed falang, then would be worth adding to your collection. Though the 'thunder' aspect is obviously not too desirable.
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Brain
Brisbane
12th December 2013 4:48pm
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Original Post was last edited: 12th December 2013 4:47pm
mojo says...
I would say your guess is correct Brian as i finally found a reference to "Falan" as a Thai Mango simular to Keow Savoey generally eaten green in Asia.Maybe the spelling was wrong on the pot it was in as it was written with a texta pen or maybe i read it wrong, anyway i now know what it is and after a spray with Mancozeb+ and Copper oxy with Agril (thanks to Breden or Wayne)it has bounced back with new growth so all is good.
Thanks Guys.
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mojo
Northampton WA
18th December 2013 12:28pm
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Kav says...
Hi would anyone be able to tell me what mango tree type this is and what might be wrong with it? Tips of leaves are all brown. Tree is about 5 years old was just planted before we moved in and has grown about a foot in the past 2 years.

Any help advice would be greatly appreciated. Location is south of perth Western Australia

Thank you
Kav
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Kav
Rockingham wa
29th March 2014 8:57pm
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aus99a says...
Might be one of the blight diseases that affect mangos. See this link:
http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0009/120114/blight-disease-mango.pdf
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aus99a
SOUTH SYDNEY,2000,NSW
29th March 2014 9:04pm
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Alax5 says...
This one is good. keep up the good work!.. http://www.durranifarms.com/about.html
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Alax5
ghbtgh
2nd April 2014 5:52pm
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Original Post was last edited: 2nd April 2014 5:52pm
Julie says...
Kav, looks like exposure to salt-laden wind. Rockingham is on the coast, and plants like mangoes need a bit more protection.

Also, can't see right to the bottom of the tree, but you seem to have grass growing right up to the trunk. The grass will compete heavily with the mango for water and nutrients. Better to remove the grass in a wide circle round the plant and mulch well.
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Julie
Roleystone WA
2nd April 2014 7:53pm
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Original Post was last edited: 2nd April 2014 7:54pm
Snow1 says...
Hi Bruce,
My brother in Mandurah had same problem
It is Anthrachnose and he treated it with regular sprays ofMancozeb which is also great for assisting with fruit set.
Good luck
Eric
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Snow1
Connolly, WA
13th May 2014 5:00pm
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A,C says...
Ive the same problem with my Mango tree here in Cowandilla ,Adelaide.It looks like salt burn,waterlogging issue.I did spray it with Kocide Blue for Anthracnose .Also sprayed it with Zinc sulphate and applied some on the roots as liquid thinking it may be Zinc deficient.The tree appeared to pick up after this .I did this because its a little known fact that Mangoes are susceptible to "Little Leaf" same as Citrus which is treated with Manganese/Zinc spray.I noticed 4 days ago after some heavy rainfall that some more of the leaves edges started to go brown(Salt burn,waterlogging,soil fungal?)Im going to try some other tactics,will keep everyone posted if I get a turn around of the symptoms.
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AC1
Cowandilla,South Australia
14th May 2014 10:53am
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Enelram says...
Hi all...newbie in mango growing too. Bought my mango tree at the nursery in Perth. Planted it 2mos ago. Not sure what's wrong with the tree now. Appreciate some advice. Read it somewhere that most mango trees die of 'love'. So I don't want to 'over'-do everything with regards to the tree. Opinions please. Thanks!
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Enelram
Landsdale
1st October 2015 1:59am
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DougB says...
I use my airless spray gun sometimes with the tip reversed. It pumps at about 2500psi through a 15 thou tip. If you know a painter you'll be right.
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DougB
St George
21st December 2015 8:49pm
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A.C says...
You need to check soil PH .Stop any fertiliser applications be it liquid or pellets.I would put some shadecloth 50 percent grade around this tree till it gets established aprox 12months old.Looks like some sort of leaf burn (salt build up) too much fertiliser or too much watering causing salt build up.Is this soil free draining or heavy clay soil? Waterlogging? If you put any compost around this tree add another 20 percent washed filling sand spread over top and mix lightly with existing soil.
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AC1
HILTON,5033,SA
22nd December 2015 6:45pm
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Ahad says...
Hi Maryanne

Are you still around Sydney? I need help on mango farming?
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Ahad
Sydney
6th April 2016 9:05pm
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mojo says...
Hi Guys
As usual my mangoes are flowering and it keeps raining and the dreaded anthracnose
is back again, has anyone used liquid copper instead of mancozeb to control anthracnose as that is supposed to work as well and the local store is out of mancozeb and it's a 100klm trip into the city
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mojo
NORTHAMPTON,6535,WA
30th August 2016 1:08pm
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JeanP says...
Hello!

Can somebody help me please what's happening with my mango tree now. I cultivate it from seed in a pot on my window sill. During the growth process something white began to appear. And now it seems that something eats it, because the leaves look eaten. I tried to use a spray from aphids but it's still there. How to get rid of them and how to care the tree to restore it?

Thank you
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JeanP
Moscow
5th September 2016 12:51am
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wtaumme1 says...
I don't know much about diseases of mango but there are various diseases in which mango tree can help from its flower to its bark. In herbal treatment therapies it has been explained well.
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wtaumme1
Enter Postcode First,,NT
7th September 2016 9:47pm
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Bangkok says...
Those white things look like aphids/insects to me, clean the leaves with 2 damp spongees or towels.

Also make sure they won't come back. Neem oil might work or something more chemical.
Indoors the air might be dry or a lack of other insects, just spray it well with water to clean. They are not spidermites right?

Spray the tree with seaweedextract or micro's.
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Bangkok
Thailand
8th September 2016 2:59pm
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Markmelb says...
JeanP - do you actually live in Moscow?
If you wish to save it is easy - take outside and spray with soapy water - like what you have in sink to wash dishes -
then wipe leaves with sponge and spray again -
I had the same aphid / mite like critters on my Acerola whilst overwintering inside - took it outside twice on warmer days for a wash - the mango will appreciate a clean :)
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Markmelb
MOUNT WAVERLEY,3149,VIC
8th September 2016 6:10pm
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Original Post was last edited: 8th September 2016 6:11pm
JeanP says...
Bangkok, thank you for useful tips about neem oil and seaweed extract, I will buy it and try. No, not spider mites, there is only like a very small white dust.

Markmelb, yes I live in Moscow, here is enought sun for mango during only 3 months in summer. Thank you for tip to use a dish soap.
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JeanP
Moscow
16th September 2016 5:21pm
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louisspencer says...
Hello, does anyone here have any experience of mango bark beetles? From researching online it is not clear if they are even known to be found here in Australia, but my tree has suffered from tiny borers which inoculate with a fungus as a food source, and which seem to be responsible for mango sudden decline syndrome:
http://www.planthealthaustralia.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Mango-sudden-decline-FS.pdf
If you google image search 'mango bark beetle' you will see the culprits. My tree has all the signs, little boreholes, stained vascular tissues, gummosis, and is not helped by having been recently transplanted, and has lost all of its leaves. But, it is now beginning to show signs of life with shoots in a few places. I wonder though if it can recover?

Many thanks
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louisspencer
Perth
14th October 2016 11:37pm
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bbudd says...
Mango borers are common in Thailand

http://www.iihr.res.in/content/technology-sealer-cum-healer-mango-trunk-borer-management

Tell tale traces of sawdust are the first sign
they lay a grub in the tree that sucks all the life out of one branch after another
Young trees are particularly prone and they will kill the tree one branch at a time
Only good news is mature trees seem to develop a resistance
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bbudd
NOBLE PARK,3174,VIC
17th October 2016 8:36pm
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louisspencer says...
Hi bbudd, these are very different borers to the beetles you are referring to. These are barely 5mm in length and the beetles you refer to are 5cm in length
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louisspencer
Perth
20th October 2016 11:40pm
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Ben12345 says...
Hi there,

My dwarf kensington pride tree which i've had for about a year has been looking a bit sick over the last few weeks. Half of it seems to be going ok and has started to flower but the other has it's leaves dying and main branch isn't looking it's usual bright green. No particular signs of any bugs, is this the anthracnose which seems to be common for mango trees?

Not sure why only half is dying while the other seems to be going ok... But the bad half looks a bit terminal. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Cheers.
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Ben12345
Perth
23rd October 2016 2:24pm
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Ben12345 says...
Sorry it didn't seem to want to attach the images on previous post, second time lucky.
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Ben12345
Perth
23rd October 2016 2:36pm
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Markmelb says...
How cold did it get before all this happened? Did you get a frost? As it takes a while to die back - its not instant.
Cut back the dead bits and it will regrow with new buds below cut.

Next year build a frost cloth shelter?

Older branches have a thicker cambium and are less affected I have found.

We didnt get a frost this year and my Bowen Seedling is damage free.

In fact look for a palmer as mine needs little protection at all.

Edit - Its hard to tell if its Fungal Damage as well Vs Cold -usually its rains and being not too tolerant variety the causes for Anthracnose. Copper Oxy with a wetting agent would help when black spots first seen on leaves.
In Pheonix AZ they have a short winter but still get frosts even though they have perfect mango weather and they put a heat source inside a frost cloth setup on those nights
Another tip is spray drought sheild as this coating also improves frost tolerance by a degree or three maybe- It helped on my Palmer. This is tolerant of black spot on fruit and has some tolerance to Anthracnose.

What CV is your Mango?
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Markmelb
MOUNT WAVERLEY,3149,VIC
24th October 2016 9:03am
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Original Post was last edited: 25th October 2016 7:29am
mojo says...
Hi Ben
I have similar issues with some of my mango trees this year as we have had so much rain i am assuming Anthracnose is more sever than normal, even the eight new trees i planted this winter which were in very good condition when i planted them got anthracnose as well.In the past i have had a few spots on the leaves but this year the whole tip has died off and then spread down the branch, so i started trimming of the dead stuff to prevent further damage and spraying every week with a heavy dose of mancozeb 30gr to five litres of water + wetting agent and this is the eighth week and now more new flowers are growing as most of the old ones died off and the trees have bounced back also the rain has stopped and its getting warmer which has helped and the flowers keep coming so i might even get a good crop this year, and when the fruit has set you can add some Copper Oxychloride to the mix which will help as well. I will take some pictures in the morning.
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mojo
NORTHAMPTON,6535,WA
25th October 2016 3:05am
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mojo says...
I have only sprayed with Mancozeb as i read somewhere on here not to use coppy oxy when flowering but it appears to be working as there is plenty of new growth and the dying of the tips seems to have stopped so when the fruit sets i will include some copper oxy chloride to help things along then trim off the rest of the dead branches.
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mojo
NORTHAMPTON,6535,WA
26th October 2016 8:12pm
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Markmelb says...
So --- for you West Oz guys how cold did it actually get or dont you have a Max / Min thermometer near your Mangos - if you dont you should be monitoring your evening and morning temps - even go so far as buying a weather station with an alarm telling you when it hits 5C?

Your pics appear to be Cold / Frost? Damage.

The reason is to not to spray copper oxy on flowers as will stop fertilizing jyst like on nectarines - if mango is small you can cover flowers or not shoot sprayon them - if its big wait till flowering has finished then spray
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Markmelb
MOUNT WAVERLEY,3149,VIC
27th October 2016 9:04am
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Original Post was last edited: 27th October 2016 3:06pm
PaulaM says...
Hi i have an irwin dwarf mango which i planted outside in a spot where it get sun during the day and shade of an afternoon all of a sudden the new leaves started drooping and they have got a not spotted but the leaves have turned a dark brown in the centre. I have noticed before i planted it outside that there is a bit of what looks like a white fungus on the stem half way down but this has not spread. I treated it with Mancozeb as my dwarf peach had spider mites which i have successfully treated but am worried about my Mango tree. i didn't want to plant it outside but my husband was trying to tell me it was dying but i didn't believe it was and now it looks worse.
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PaulaM
Rosebud
24th November 2016 5:06pm
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