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| About the Author Paul27 Perth 4th March 2010 9:31pm #UserID: 3444 Posts: 3 View All Paul27's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. WA 4th March 2010 10:05pm #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Brendan says... Hi Paul, Leaf-tip-burn is usually from too much fertilizer, or as Amanda says, salinity burn from 'somewhere'? What's your water like? Those black spots. We used to call them 'oil spots'. Give your tree a spray of 30g Mancozeb, 4.5 litres water & 30ml of a good wetting agent. The wetting agent is the key. Spray the tree once a week for 4 weeks, then once a month 'till it clears up. I'd spread a lot of gypsum around your avocado tree, say 4 handfulls / sq m. You can now buy liquid gypsum (clay breaker). Wouldn't hurt to give it some of that too. Does the tree have lots of mulch? | About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 6th March 2010 7:37am #UserID: 1947 Posts: 1722 View All Brendan's Edible Fruit Trees |
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People who Like this Answer: Noel Original Post was last edited: 6th March 2010 7:48am | ||||||||||
Paul says... It's starting to make more sense now. I've included photos of the sick tree and the tree next to it which is doing really well, only with minor burning. The ground is clay/rock but have built then on a mound. It only happens this time of year with the heat. I water them every second day from mains water. If it is salinity it has to be coming from the ground some how, maybe leaching from the clay underneath on hot days. I do add cow manure and as lucerne mulch .
| About the Author Paul27 Perth 6th March 2010 9:58am #UserID: 3444 Posts: 3 View All Paul27's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 7th March 2010 8:03am #UserID: 1947 Posts: 1722 View All Brendan's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Paul says... They are Grafted Bacons. They are coming into there 4th year in August. They were growing nearly 1 inch a week last year, crazy. Had heaps of fruit this year the size of golf balls but unfortunately they all dropped off. I think its still too young. Going to put gypsum around the tree, which hopefully next year heaps with the salinity. Thanks | About the Author Paul27 Perth 7th March 2010 9:08am #UserID: 3444 Posts: 3 View All Paul27's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Brendan says... Hi Paul, The fruit probably dropped off because of Anthracnose. Avocados (and mangoes) are notorious for this. To stop this, mix 30g copperoxy chloride, 30g mancozeb plus, 4.5 litres water, & a 'good' wetting agent. eg Spreadmax. Spray the trees once a month. When the buds appear, spray them, BUT, once the buds open, STOP spraying until the small fruits form. Once you reckon you have enough small fruit, spray once a week for 3 to 4 weeks, then go back to the once a month spraying program. As the 'guru' up here says, you'll be sick of eating avocados :-) To help the fruit get to a decent size, give them a fertilizer high in phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), and wouldn't hurt to give them a bit of boron & zinc. Hope that helps. Do you or a neighbour have a Hass avocado tree? I'm fairly sure Hass (type A), pollinates Bacon (type B), this will help you get more fruit. BTW, I read somewhere that the Reed (type A) avocado can handle 'salt' better then the others? | About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 8th March 2010 7:38am #UserID: 1947 Posts: 1722 View All Brendan's Edible Fruit Trees |
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People who Like this Answer: Noel Original Post was last edited: 8th March 2010 7:54am | ||||||||||
BJ says... Hi, I think my baby dwarf wurtz has leaf tip burn. It is just at the tip of the older leaves and the leaves have changed from their initial deep green to more of a kermit green. It still has plenty of new growth. It is only watered with mains water. The plant is in a pot at the moment (it is moving to a new much bigger pot toward the end of spring, but I need to seal the pavers the pot will be sitting on)... How can I help the plant get its nice dark green leaves back? | About the Author BJ11 WA 1st September 2010 5:53pm #UserID: 3414 Posts: 215 View All BJ11's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Jason10 Portland, Vic 1st September 2010 7:07pm #UserID: 3853 Posts: 218 View All Jason10's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author BJ11 WA 1st September 2010 9:46pm #UserID: 3414 Posts: 215 View All BJ11's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Suzanne3 San Diego, CA 19th May 2011 5:30am #UserID: 5323 Posts: 2 View All Suzanne3's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Suzanne3 San Diego, CA 19th May 2011 5:32am #UserID: 5323 Posts: 2 View All Suzanne3's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Brendan says... Hi Suzanne, We have a product over here called Anti Rot, made by Yates. If you can buy that or equivalent, I'd give it a spray. Try googling it. It looks like it's lacking iron (yellow leaves), I'd give it some iron sulphate, sulphate of potash and some gypsum. I would also remove the lawn under the drip line, then put the above brew onto the soil, then cover all that with lots of good mulch, but keep it away from the trunk, like my tree.
| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 20th May 2011 8:07am #UserID: 1947 Posts: 1722 View All Brendan's Edible Fruit Trees |
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John says... Try using miracle grow, 24-8-16 to get the dark green leaf color back. Miracle grow contains the essential micronutrients as well. Follow instructions to fertilize. Check the pH of soil, should be between 6.0 to 6.5 so that the micronutrients can be absorbed by the roots. Once green comes back, feed regularly with a balanced avocado/citrus fertilizer. | About the Author John45 USA 30th May 2011 6:31am #UserID: 5363 Posts: 1 View All John45's Edible Fruit Trees |
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beetlebob says... I have a very young avocado tree and the leaves are turning brown and falling off. I live in Lytle TX, which is in south Texas and the heat is high. My tree is in sandy soil which i think gets good drainage but i don't understand why the leaves are browning, wilting and falling off and no new ones are coming back. I don't know if it's pets, improper watering or root rot. This is a grafted Opal Avocado tree. I would appreciate any help. I also have a tee pee around the tree on two sides to keep the western sun from killing it.
| About the Author beetlebob Lytle TX 26th July 2011 6:37am #UserID: 5585 Posts: 1 View All beetlebob's Edible Fruit Trees |
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tree lover says... Had brown leaf problem myself - to the point of my young potted tree nearly dying - from tips and through veins on most leaves .. Come to find out it was SALTY WATER ! The water in the San Fernando valley has too high minerals and it was killing my avocado (what a sensitive plant). Decided to post to help people out who might have this problem, who are watering their tree - and in turn killing it with minerals! THE ANSWER FOR HIGH MINERAL / SALT CONTENT IN WATER : - add 3 capfuls of white vinegar to 1 gallon of water every single time you water your plant - use a water filter in addition to the vinegar above (water filter alone won't work) - pour coffee / tea grinds on soil (avocados like that) Got the 1st & 3rd idea from a flowershop nearby, and it's done wonders. EVEN WHEN YOU FEED YOUR PLANT add the vinegar to the water. According to my doctor mom Vinegar binds with salt in someway and deactivates it.. Has taken 6 months or so but all my avocado leaves are turning green and multiplying beautifully - !!! WOW !!! And the last of the brown ones are falling-off. Nearly lost my potted avocado tree - so good luck to all of you out there; may this help and your avocados thrive!!! PS - IN PICTURE you will see the last of my brown leaves (which will fall off); all green growth is new ..
| About the Author tree lover los angeles 13th August 2011 12:42am #UserID: 5656 Posts: 1 View All tree lover's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 13th August 2011 12:44am | ||||||||||
amanda says... It's an interesting problem tree lover. The max salinity for humans is around 1100ppm... which is a lot higher than fruit trees...(adult sheep = 9000ppm) We often don't appreciate this fact with water quality - even from our taps. The best buffer for salinty is a good compost, gypsum and rain water flushes. Plus some well considered watering methods. There is NOTHING that will control or eliminate chloride from your soil. Sodium yes..but not Cl. And guess what they put in the tap water... Let's face it - our scheme water is getting saltier every year because of the pressures being put on it - just for drinking alone ...collect as much rain water as u can... (ps littlebob...advocado growing soil is the key...sand is no good! you basically need premium potting mix or natural volcanic soils... avocado growing soil is not easy to come by...) | About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. Mide West WA. 13th August 2011 1:30am #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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People who Like this Answer: Noel Original Post was last edited: 13th August 2011 1:35am | ||||||||||
Brendan says... Hi All, For what it's worth, here is the 'gurus' answer about avocado leaves going brown etc. Q. "Hi Tom, My avocado tree is looking sick. Here is a photo of one of the leaves. Thanks." (lost photo for some reason?) A. Potash and Calcium deficiency, apply Sulphate of Potash one clenched handful per sq metre and Gypsum four clenched handfuls per sq metre. Here's a photo of my Lamb Hass avo taken today (13/8/11). It's covered in new shoots, and been in 22 months. That is gypsum on the mulch, and that's your Lima bean in the background Amanda:-)
| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 13th August 2011 8:20am #UserID: 1947 Posts: 1722 View All Brendan's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Nice work Brendan - both look very happy. That sure is a tropical bean - it never grew that well for me here! I really like gypsum too...I think it's great stuff - I find it doesn't induce an iron deficiency like some other calcium based chemical-fert's (like calcium nitrate) I recently gave both of those things to my lawn along with some phosphate - it's greening up just beautifully and last nite there were fat n happy worms crawling all over it :) | About the Author amanda19 Geraldton. Mide West WA. 13th August 2011 12:39pm #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author quellen Czech Republic 16th August 2012 4:39am #UserID: 7158 Posts: 1 View All quellen's Edible Fruit Trees |
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silvi says... I have aavocado grown from the pith and is in a pot. Leaves are turning brown and falling and I have new growth at the top and on the stem but they also are slowly turning brown. I water with distilled water from my air/con unit, the pot is of adequate size.I spray it every day. The temp here is 35-40 but has been 48. plant is not in full sun but plenty of light | About the Author silvi1 cyprus 15th September 2012 8:35pm #UserID: 7246 Posts: 1 View All silvi1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author ivepeters Brisbane 26th October 2012 2:08pm #UserID: 6741 Posts: 527 View All ivepeters's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Ron says... I bought this this grafted Avocado tree a few months ago now and it has not grown much prob due to winter dormant months but it has started to grow some new buds now. I recently started noticing some of the leaves turning brown. I have fertilized once since I have had it now 3-4 months. Does anyone have any ideas as to why some of the leaves are turning brown like this? It is planted facing North west so it does get some winds when we get a cold front and I have it supported at the top. Thank you. | About the Author Ronmartino Terra Ceia FL 10th February 2013 4:47am #UserID: 7706 Posts: 1 View All Ronmartino's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 10th February 2013 5:02am | ||||||||||
Avocadolover says... My avocado tree looks like this and I'm not sure what's causing it. Can anyone offer help? It's a large well developed tree in the ground. Not sure how old but I'm thinking 10-20 years? We just moved here so I'm not sure of the history of the soil. Thank you for your help.:)
| About the Author Avocadolover Southern cal. 15th February 2013 12:35pm #UserID: 7725 Posts: 2 View All Avocadolover's Edible Fruit Trees |
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VF says... Ron and Avocadolover, I'm learning as I go along too, but I've found that very cold winds can cause that browning on the leaf in winter. Extreme heat in summer can do it too. Avo trees are sensitive to salt too, sometimes found in some tap-waters and also in fertilisers(best to use organic types), and again will have browning leaves. | About the Author VF Wongawallan 16th February 2013 8:22am #UserID: 6795 Posts: 736 View All VF's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 16th February 2013 8:31am #UserID: 1947 Posts: 1722 View All Brendan's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amanda says... Hi avocadolover...we moved here recently and I found this avo in the same state...the other photo is only roughly 2 months later...I fed mine some liquid aquaponics fertilser I had handy (as I wasnt sure if it was a salt issue - and this fert has no damaging salts in it..) and also gave it a big soaking before hand... Then I fixed up the retic going to it so it got watered properly and after a bit gave it a little dynamic lifter..and presto! It then flowered also.. :) This one has loads of lovely leaf litter as mulch. If extra water and modest feeding doesn't see an improvement then it could be your water supply...fingers crossed it's not that.
| About the Author amanda19 16th February 2013 11:08am #UserID: 2309 Posts: 4607 View All amanda19's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Avocado Lovers Malaysia says... Hi everyone. Greetings from "Avocado Lovers Malaysia" (Facebook group page) I need some help. One of my members is growing an Avocado Tree and is facing problems with the plant... Can anyone analyse the cause of the leaf turning yellow and brown? and what solution we should take? Regards
| About the Author Avocado Lovers Malaysia Seremban 25th February 2014 12:24pm #UserID: 9550 Posts: 4 View All Avocado Lovers Malaysia's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Markmelb says... Hi Avocado Lovers Malaysia - I myself wouldnt be too concerned about the odd leaf tip yellowing or browning as Avos dont show anything until a few month after a deficiency - sunburn more immediately tho - Im more concerned about the leaf veins being so yellowish? Has plant had gypsum - Zinc - or Boron around drip line? If not can do wonders but you wont see effects until next flush of leaves and them hardened off - PH of 5.5 is what to aim for too - like to hear if youve done any of the Above | About the Author Markmelb , 26th February 2014 8:58pm #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Avocado Lovers Malaysia Seremban 27th February 2014 10:59am #UserID: 9550 Posts: 4 View All Avocado Lovers Malaysia's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Markmelb says... mmmm Epsom Salt may be ok on strawberries but I did that on my lemons too and didnt like it - dont think the Avos do either - hope you didnt put more than a tablespoon on - hopefully rains wash through in your area - I reckon can cause some yellowing veins on leaves - how much did u put on? | About the Author Markmelb , 27th February 2014 6:42pm #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Avocado Lovers Malaysia Seremban 31st March 2014 11:33am #UserID: 9550 Posts: 4 View All Avocado Lovers Malaysia's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Markmelb says... Hi Good to hear back and that you didnt use too much epsom salts - was interested to see your bag of fertiliser as Avos are a bit hungry as are Citrus but never seen an Avo fertiliser here ever - maybe palm food - can you list the NPK ratios and percentages on side of your bag for comparison purposes - Thanks | About the Author Markmelb , 31st March 2014 6:26pm #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Jason Portland 31st March 2014 6:58pm #UserID: 637 Posts: 1217 View All Jason's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 31st March 2014 6:57pm | ||||||||||
Markmelb says... Hi jason - Ive use a bit of a mix - Dynamic lifter then have green jacket slow release in mix already have put on Troforte M Fruit and Citrus recently and leaves are growing huge???? as lower sections of trees getting more shade as sun lowers to winter - my huge Fuerte in Richmond thats now about 22 years old has lots of self fertilized Avos this year with really long stems to the fruit - picked a couple to bench ripen last week b4 the locals get to the easy reach ones - lots up high (110mm x 60mm and 209gms) so are already a good size and getting bigger - only had one out of 6 grafts fly away yet - have to get some lessons from you :) | About the Author Markmelb , 31st March 2014 7:55pm #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 31st March 2014 7:54pm | ||||||||||
Jason says... Wow that's amazing you can pick Fuerte at this time of year. Richmond must be borderline tropical!. I can't pick a Fuerte for another 9 months yet. Out of interested for those in cooler climate such as Sean. I picked a Gwen the other day and it was ripe, maybe even gone slightly too far. I've been picking Hass for a month? they weren't quite ready then but the last ones that have ripened now are ready. But there are smaller ones on the tree for hanging during Winter. I picked a Reed a while ago and it wasn't ready however they are much bigger now so I've picked another and I think it'll be near perfect. As far as weights go my Hass are pretty small this year (heavy crop) they are 220-250 grams at the moment. The Reed I picked is 430 grams but they will get even bigger than that more towards Winter. P.S long stems are a good indicator of how much nutrients the trees have in my experience. Longer the better. I still like Reed the most, tastes the best, good looking tree, sets a sensible amount of fruit. Not too much or too little. It's pretty good :). | About the Author Jason Portland 31st March 2014 8:11pm #UserID: 637 Posts: 1217 View All Jason's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 31st March 2014 8:10pm | ||||||||||
Markmelb says... Thanks Jason - Im picking say a month or two early as locals around that 8mt x 5mt Fuerte will take the lower ones but higher ones are hard to see - lots more this year than last year - Im glad it hasnt been ripped out - I think they see it as a desirable tree now since I planted in about 1992 and was in a pot for about 6 years before so they can grow away from a big pot planting in the ground :) PS : How long have your Hass been on tree? are they a year old? My Lamb Hass still on the tree are about same size as Fuerte | About the Author Markmelb , 31st March 2014 8:18pm #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 31st March 2014 8:17pm | ||||||||||
Jason says... Oh yeah the Hass I'm picking now pollinated in November 2012 :). The only time there isn't two separate crops on the tree is between August and November (while it's flowering) so it works very hard. No wonder they like the food. The "Mexican" types never carry two crops as they are ripe mostly in September from an October set the year before. | About the Author Jason Portland 31st March 2014 8:30pm #UserID: 637 Posts: 1217 View All Jason's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 31st March 2014 8:30pm | ||||||||||
| About the Author Markmelb , 31st March 2014 8:38pm #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Avocado Lovers Malaysia Seremban 3rd April 2014 6:40pm #UserID: 9550 Posts: 4 View All Avocado Lovers Malaysia's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Markmelb says... Found your Product easy on web The Espoma Company, 6 Espoma Rd, Millville, New Jersey USA www.espoma.com Never seen in Australia - too much other competition here - How much do you pay in Malaysia for 5kg? PDF http://www.espoma.com/p_consumer/pdf/products/tones/Esp_Citrus.pdf | About the Author Markmelb , 4th April 2014 9:18am #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 4th April 2014 9:17am | ||||||||||
| About the Author joey ho joey 25th April 2014 9:18pm #UserID: 9867 Posts: 1 View All joey ho's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author JohnMc1 Warnervale NSW 25th April 2014 10:48pm #UserID: 2743 Posts: 2043 View All JohnMc1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Brendan Mackay, Q 26th April 2014 8:30am #UserID: 1947 Posts: 1722 View All Brendan's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 26th April 2014 8:30am | ||||||||||
Markmelb says... IMHO - plants been indoors too long and potting mix doesnt look great - can only keep avos inside so long - I suggest start again with some new seeds - I see you have others going - no big loss - if you would like to experiment repot into say Debco camelia potting mix and add say a teaspoon of zinc phosphate and half a handful of gypsum and repost in future Pic of a couple 8 month old seedlings for grafting next year
| About the Author Markmelb , 26th April 2014 1:05pm #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author sternus1 Australia 26th April 2014 1:15pm #UserID: 8314 Posts: 1318 View All sternus1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Tatyana says... Can anyone help me with my tree, I don't know why it's turning brown like this, I planted it a few months back everything was fine until 2 weeks ago, it's been raining at least once a day or every other day but For some reason the trees leaves are still turning brown right now every thing is brown but the stem. Can anyone tell me why my tree is the way it is. O and if this helps I live in Florida so right now it's the rain season | About the Author Tatyana Florida 15th July 2014 11:38am #UserID: 10218 Posts: 2 View All Tatyana's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Africanaussie says... I have been reading through this forum, and havent found an identical problem to mine. Gypsum seems to be reccomended quite often. I have sandy soil so I thought gypsum was only added to clay soils. This is a grafted dwarf avocado, and looked like this when I bought it in a pot. I thought putting it into the soil would perk it up, but now all the leaves have in fact fallen off. A lot of worm castings were added when it was planted, but I do use town water and add seaweed to my compost and mulch so will try adding a little vinegar to the water, and maybe add some coffee grounds as mulch. My soil ph is around 7. It has been very dry, but our wet season should start soon.
| About the Author Africanaussie Cairns 4th December 2014 9:02am #UserID: 10945 Posts: 3 View All Africanaussie's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Markmelb says... Ive been thinking about what to offer - apart from you being in Cairns - I think you basically bought a dud plant - search out a few differnt growers and see how vigorous they look esp with big green leaves before buying - dont be shy about giving half a days or afternoon shade. Re Gypsum - Avos treat it like a fertilizer so a couple handfuls no probs even in sandy soil - also compost up your soil and try for a ph between 5 and 6.2 and be patient - Avos are very slow to react so a little bit is best and wait a couple months. | About the Author Markmelb , 4th December 2014 8:12pm #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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jakfruit etiquette says... Gypsum is Calcium Sulphate, it is used in potting mix to supply Calcium and Sulphur, esp Calcium without raising the pH. The rate for pot mix is up to 1 kg per cubic metre, without shifting pH. Other Ca sources are lime and dolomite which raise the pH. Coarse Gypsum is slow release as it dissolves. It should be useful in any other soils. Gypsum is also used to fix salty clay soils structure, but that is not its only use. | About the Author jakfruit etiquette vic 5th December 2014 7:17am #UserID: 5133 Posts: 915 View All jakfruit etiquette's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Markmelb says... got this from Wiki - Gypsum is a soft sulfate mineral composed of calcium sulfate dihydrate, with the chemical formula CaSO. 2H2O. It can be used as a fertilizer, is the main constituent in many forms of plaster and is widely mined. I do know from experience that Avos love it and since finding out about using it they have never looked back -- but dont use too much | About the Author Markmelb , 5th December 2014 7:51am #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Africanaussie Cairns 10th December 2014 10:44am #UserID: 10945 Posts: 3 View All Africanaussie's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Africanaussie Cairns 10th December 2014 10:51am #UserID: 10945 Posts: 3 View All Africanaussie's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Markmelb says... Im really sorry but coffee grounds are nearly close to neutral - bit of a myth about acidity - put some sulpher granules around as recommended and they are slow release - the Manutec is what I use on my blueberries too with a bit of peat and pine needles if you cn find them for mulch as well. | About the Author Markmelb , 10th December 2014 7:08pm #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Julie Roleystone WA 10th December 2014 8:33pm #UserID: 154 Posts: 1842 View All Julie's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Tommoz Dural 10th December 2014 9:11pm #UserID: 7219 Posts: 340 View All Tommoz's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Julie 1 says... RE: Lowering Ph with normal tea from tea leaves Much like coffee, if the leaves/grounds have been used to brew the drink, much of the acid has been removed. Used coffee grounds (UCG's) and tea leaves will have some tannins left in them but far less than if used before the brewing process. Laboratory tests sponsored by Starbucks have shown UCG's to be only very slightly acidic to almost neutral with regards to pH. Either way, they are not an effective method of lowering soil pH - they just offer too little to make much of an impact. Same with most leaves and conifer needles -- contrary to common belief, tests have shown that these materials generally considered to be "acidic" amendments or mulching ingredients have minimal impact on soil pH. They may offer a slight lowering of pH at the soil surface if used as a mulch but once incorporated in to the soil and beginning the decomposition process, their contribution to soil pH is negligible. And once decomposed, like other compost, they will be nearly neutral in pH. Using the brewed liquid rather than the remains should provide better results - that's where all the acidity is - but even that is not going to do much and not for long. Soil pH is dependent primarily on the mineral component of the soil, not on any sort of organic matter that is added to it. Organic matter decomposes and disappears over time while the minerals remain. Altering soil pH to any significant degree is an ongoing process, not a one time thing. You'd have better results with applying sulfur or incorporating peat moss in the planting hole but these methods will need to be repeated as well. http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/organic/msg0110544722453.html?3 | About the Author Julie Roleystone WA 11th December 2014 10:36am #UserID: 154 Posts: 1842 View All Julie's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Bryan2 Escondido, CA 22nd February 2015 12:38pm #UserID: 11347 Posts: 1 View All Bryan2's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Markmelb MT WAVERLEY,3149,VIC 22nd February 2015 1:48pm #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author zutano modesto california 29th March 2015 7:25am #UserID: 11531 Posts: 1 View All zutano's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Athertonbackyarder says... This is a shepherd avocado I planted in late December. We had a run of extremely hot humid weather and I have been watering daily. First I noticed the black mark on the trunk and then it started dropping leaves. I cut it back about 3 weeks ago and one week ago watered the soil and trunk with 2 teaspoons of copper oxychloride mixed with about 8 litres of water in a watering can. I now have purchased some Mancozeb an d wonder if I can use it at the same time. I noticed this weekend that black spots are appearing on the leaves. | About the Author Athertonbackyarder Atherton 14th February 2016 3:23pm #UserID: 13306 Posts: 1 View All Athertonbackyarder's Edible Fruit Trees |
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amehart says... The attached pictures show my dwarf avocado I purchased from you several years ago. It's growing, but every year it has these brown spots, and brown leaves. Can you help me identify what the problem is AND what I need to do to correct it? I have also not had any fruit from the tree yet. Is there something I can do to encourage fruit to grow? I live in WA state and put the tree in a little hot-house type enclosure during the winter. And bring it out in the spring. | About the Author amehart Western Washington State 20th April 2016 12:45am #UserID: 13762 Posts: 1 View All amehart's Edible Fruit Trees |
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myki says... hi guys, daleys has a simple but real informative video about growing avocado trees succesfully. it'll certainly shed a bit of light to why your trees are having problems. hope it helps! http://youtu.be/W_Vx86SCX4w | About the Author myki vic 20th April 2016 7:32pm #UserID: 13752 Posts: 2 View All myki's Edible Fruit Trees |
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davewastech says... In Perth a frequent cause of avocado leaves browning is salt, predominantly NaCL. See https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/spring/growing-avocados-irrigation-principles?page=0%2C3#smartpaging_toc_p3_s1_h3 Note that irrigation water with more than 320 ppm salt is unsuitable, and should ideally be less 190ppm (when I last lived in Perth the bore water at our house had 1500 ppm and the soil was loaded with salt from previous bore use - just suitable for growing much more salt-tolerant plants). Also note that it is important when using marginal water that an irrigation strategy to avoid salt build-up in the soil should be used (see same article for details). Also if either you or nearby neighbours have (or have had) a salt-water pool (6000ppm salt) then it is quite common for pool owners to just run the backwash water onto the nearest bit of dirt. | About the Author davewastech WILLOUGHBY EAST,2068,NSW 25th April 2016 10:36pm #UserID: 7097 Posts: 115 View All davewastech's Edible Fruit Trees |
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davewastech says... If you wish to know the salinity of your bore water you can get a rough idea by asking a swimming pool store to test it with a conductivity meter. It's usually free. Also there is another resource for Perth called The Perth Groundwater Atlas which has maps of salinity levels throughout Perth Metro Area. This can be found in hard copy at some libraries, and can be found in various online versions eg https://www.water.wa.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0015/.../52616.pdf and go to the crude map on page 14. Unfortunately it shows the lowest range as 0 - 500ppm There is a better online version somewhere, but I think it needs a plugin. It will tell you approximate salinity, depth to bore water, etc for the address you type in. There's quite a lot of backyard avo trees on Perth Metro's sandy coastal plain, growing quite well. I know at least some of the owners use just tap water to water them. | About the Author davewastech WILLOUGHBY EAST,2068,NSW 26th April 2016 9:41am #UserID: 7097 Posts: 115 View All davewastech's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Medrex says... Got a pretty young avacado tree that recently got repotted. It seems to be doing well for the most part but there's just one leaf on the tree that's been steadily getting some brown on it. It's been slowly spreading on the leaf for the last week and looks like it's been following the veins. Any ideas? basic googling says it might be a case of to much fertilizer but I'd like to be certain.
| About the Author Medrex Sydney 18th September 2016 12:34pm #UserID: 14602 Posts: 2 View All Medrex's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Waterfall WATERFALL,2233,NSW 19th September 2016 9:42am #UserID: 10026 Posts: 422 View All Waterfall's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Starling1 says... Bryan, that looks like dehydration to me. Judging by the soil type you're on as displayed in the images, it's going to be tough to grow Avo's or indeed any fruit trees, in those conditions. Heavy clay soils are highly water repellent, and it's likely that the water from your driplines isn't penetrating anywhere near enough to get to the roots. Bush mulches layed over the top of soils such as that tend to only compound the problem. Your spae does look like it gets very hot--and are those thick tree roots I see? Will be tough for your fruit trees to compete with water against those. You have a beautiful flat block, which is good because really, the only way you're going to get good results is by building raised beds. Sorry to be the bearer or bad news, but if it's any consolation, I'm in exactly the same boat. It took me a long time to accept that I simply cannot plant in situ directly in clay. So for people like us, we've got a steeper hill to climb, but once the overheads are out of the way, we can control what happens in the soil much better than our counterparts who are lucky right off the bat! | About the Author Starling1 SELECT Your Suburb,4500,QLD 20th September 2016 11:19am #UserID: 14614 Posts: 12 View All Starling1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author wendyloo rosebud 22nd September 2016 3:18pm #UserID: 14633 Posts: 1 View All wendyloo's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Medrex says... Thanks for the response Waterfall! So it's normal for an Avacado tree's leaves to go brown like this and drop off at this time of year in Australia? This is my first time growing one and I couldn't really find any concrete info googling about it. This tree's maybe around half a year old give or take a month.
| About the Author Medrex Sydney 23rd September 2016 12:06pm #UserID: 14602 Posts: 2 View All Medrex's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 23rd September 2016 12:08pm | ||||||||||
Markmelb says... Medrex - Its only a baby seedling i take it - It should get lots of shade - or just filtered sun like in a rainforest - how would you feel as a baby on blazing hot Bondi Beach? Its really not too bad anyway but I did note saucer under pot - lose it or roots will rot - after you manage to get this to 3 mts you can try a grafted Avocado - good practice as are one of the hardest sub trops to grow. (Note - I am not trying to be condescending as I have many seedlings waitng for grafting in January in various degrees of perfection - some are and some have worse than yours spotty and brown leaves - yours could even have been attacked by Avocado mite as have seen similar pics of California Avos like that but maybe doesnt exist in Australia but hey try growing the new GEM Avocado as a seedling?) | About the Author Markmelb MOUNT WAVERLEY,3149,VIC 25th September 2016 6:08pm #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Klev says... Hi, can anyone tell me what's going on with my avocado? It's over 12 months old, but only planted into a big raised bed a few months ago. Soil is well-drained mix of composted pine bark and topsoil. It gets morning sun and then dappled light. It's been a pretty cool Spring so far here (I'm in Belair, which is Adelaide foothills) I've given it some manutec soluble fruit and citrus fertiliser, and some neutrog organic pelleted fertiliser. The twig that's going brown looks to me like some sort of rot or virus - do I cut it back before it spreads?! I check this tree every day (it's my baby), and I only noticed it today. And what about the tip of the new leaf drying out? Too much water? Not enough? It's watered with a drip feed system from my rainwater tank, so it fairly constant watering. Thanks in advance :)
| About the Author Klev Belair, SA 18th November 2016 10:50pm #UserID: 14990 Posts: 1 View All Klev's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Mari Cashmere 8th February 2017 8:18pm #UserID: 15540 Posts: 3 View All Mari's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Biddaddaba Point Vernon 21st October 2017 11:45am #UserID: 17104 Posts: 1 View All Biddaddaba's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Stevie j Healesville Victoria 8th November 2017 7:29pm #UserID: 17252 Posts: 1 View All Stevie j's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Manfred Tully 9th November 2017 8:23am #UserID: 9565 Posts: 243 View All Manfred's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Fruitylicious1 says... It might be transfer shock especially if you relocated them after the pot upgrade from a different spot, from a shady position to a sunnier position. Slowly harden your plants first before exposing them to the full elements of the environment. Shock can kill whether plants or humans. Irrigate them with a weak solution of seasol and rainwater to ease their woes. Also apply white water base paint on the branches to protect them from sunburn during the hotter segment of the season. Over watering and over fertilizing are also possible reasons for browning leaves. HAPPY GARDENING :-) | About the Author Fruitylicious1 TAMWORTH,2340,NSW 9th November 2017 10:50am #UserID: 16885 Posts: 709 View All Fruitylicious1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Matt8888 says... I purchased a dwarf avo plant about 12mths ago. I kept it in its pot for the first 9mths. About 3mths ago I planted into the ground. I heaped the soil and purchased a Vegie mix (mixed with plenty of mushroom compost) with additional sand from a local landscape supplier. Since planting there is no new growth and recently the bottom leaves have started to yellow. Any ideas? Reading other posts I wouldn’t have thought it would be from a lack of nutrients/fertiliser. All I can think of is the new area I planted it in gets less sun than where I had it when in it’s original pot. Engadine, Sydney, nsw
| About the Author Matt8888 Engadine 22nd March 2018 8:31pm #UserID: 18166 Posts: 2 View All Matt8888's Edible Fruit Trees |
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David01 says... Hi Matt8888, Mushroom compost is excellent on the vegetable garden but not for Avocado as it needs acidic growing conditions, If soil PH is high which makes other nutrients in the soil less available to the plant. In severe cases, yellowing of the foliage (known as lime-induced chlorosis) and in general stunting occurs. Mushroom compost also contains high levels of soluble salt and Avocado very sensitive to salt. Your Avocado may have more than one problem but the first step you need to correct that is your soil. Avocado soil PH between 6-6.5. Cheers. | About the Author David01 CRAIGIEBURN,3064,VIC 23rd March 2018 9:44am #UserID: 16671 Posts: 467 View All David01's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Fruitylicious1 says... Hi Matt I see nothing wrong with your avo. Majority of the leaves are healthy and all of the stems are in good health. It's just the normal shedding of the older leaves. The leaves are not plastic so they won't stay with the tree forever. Sooner or later most of the older leaves will have to go to be replaced by new ones. If the shedding of the leaves started from the tip and the upper tip of the stems dries out then that's a real concern coz the roots might have began to rot already. Don't be surprised if your avo becomes crappier as the weather starts to cool down. Relax... Happy Gardening :-) | About the Author Fruitylicious1 TAMWORTH,2340,NSW 23rd March 2018 7:24pm #UserID: 16885 Posts: 709 View All Fruitylicious1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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YMal3 says... I've had my Mexican avocado tree for a little under a year. I've noticed that it will not grow any taller. Lately the bark has gotten dark spots all throughout, leaves will brown on tips and holes through them. Can anyone tell me what could be wrong with my tree and what I can do to help it flourish. (I live in deep south Texas, I water at least twice a week since temperature here is in three digits and I fertilize every other month with the appropriate plant food)
| About the Author YMal3 Texas 22nd August 2018 6:17am #UserID: 18859 Posts: 2 View All YMal3's Edible Fruit Trees |
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David01 says... Hi YMal3, It's difficult to diagnose your Avo tree as you live in Texas. However I will give you some tips to workout by yourself. Hope it will help. 1. Young avo doesn't like direct sun on the hot day (easy to get sun burn on the trunk or branches). Thus it needs to have some shades to protect it when it is young. 2. No chemical fertilizer for the first few years but small dose of poultry/cow manure can be applied on surface. Salinity and over fertilizer will kill the Avo. which shows the burn mark on the leaves 3. Soil needs to be well drain otherwise Avo will get root rot if water logged. If you have clay below the ground, you should raise the bed about 1 by 1m and 0.5m high with good top soil. keep the soil moist but not wet. Need more water during the hot day 4. Prefer PH 5.5 to 6. Cheers | About the Author David01 CRAIGIEBURN,3064,VIC 22nd August 2018 3:58pm #UserID: 16671 Posts: 467 View All David01's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author YMal3 Texas 23rd August 2018 10:56pm #UserID: 18859 Posts: 2 View All YMal3's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Pete_repeat says... So at first I thought my avocado leaves were going like this because of frost but curious if it's a definiency or the organic lifter has caused the burns? I'm in south west Sydney (Camden). The plant has never been the same since planted in the ground (it lived in my vege patch) but it had always had green leaves that wilted reasonably easily which I assumed was due to shock.. Its in a well drained soil, that appears a little sandy.
| About the Author Pete_repeat CAMDEN 2nd September 2018 8:21pm #UserID: 18917 Posts: 2 View All Pete_repeat's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Markmelb MOUNT WAVERLEY,3149,VIC 3rd September 2018 8:20am #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Waterfall WATERFALL,2233,NSW 3rd September 2018 10:10am #UserID: 10026 Posts: 422 View All Waterfall's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Luke :) says... Yes it is completely normal for avocados to shed there old leaves this time of year, the more cold tolerant varieties will hold onto there leaves longer but even they will naturally shed there old leaves as a new rejuvenating spring flush of flowers and leaves appear. There are multiple YouTube videos addressing this very problem, with new avocado growers freaking out thinking there trees are dying when they are going through there natural growth cycle. My Secondo avocado looses its leaves fastest this time of year thanks to the Sharwil genetics. My Fuerte and Lamb Hass hold there leaves well, until new growth is set in. Pinkerton is a strong performer, in regards to showing no signs of winter browning, even with other stresses such as root rot. - An off topic question. Does anyone know what varieties of avocado Pinkerton will graft to. My options are: 1. Hass seedling 2. Fuerte 3. Lamb Hass 4. Secondo I've heard some avocado varieties dont readily graft to other varieties, creating a mix match of what grafts to what within the avocado species. | About the Author Luke :) 5089 12th September 2018 4:15am #UserID: 14508 Posts: 24 View All Luke :)'s Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Markmelb MOUNT WAVERLEY,3149,VIC 12th September 2018 1:20pm #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Luke :) says... I've heard Reed is the go to for avocado root stocks, i may crack a seedling. Out of the 3 cultivated varieties I have, do you think I need a Pinkerton as well? Or would I be missing out?...If you had to choose between a Reed and a Pinkerton to eat what would you go for? See my Pinkerton had root rot but I managed the fungus with a diluted hydrogen peroxide dip, regardless I dont think it will ever fully recover, maybe, maybe not. So im wondering if i should graft a cutting to a healthy tree or a individual root stock...or scrap the whole thing and buy a Reed. | About the Author Luke :) 5089 13th September 2018 8:09am #UserID: 14508 Posts: 24 View All Luke :)'s Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Markmelb MOUNT WAVERLEY,3149,VIC 14th September 2018 1:18pm #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Mango Mike KARRABIN,4306,QLD 14th September 2018 2:21pm #UserID: 14877 Posts: 115 View All Mango Mike's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Luke :) says... I think I may be able to have both varieties Mike, but I do have space issues. I potentially could use my Secondo to graft on a Pinkerton and Reed, as it is my most vigorous tree, I wonder how it compares in vigor to Reed? Does any one own both and can comment? That being said, im not sure how good of an idea that is to graft a semi dwarf Pinkerton onto a vigorous Secondo? May end up looking lopsided in the future. Then again, I may just Plant the 3 varieties that I have as as a trio planting to become one tree and graft Pinkerton onto one or multiple varities. My original plan was to plant the Fuerte and Secondo towards the back of the hole and the semi dwarfs Pinkerton and Lamb Hass at the front, purely for aesthetics. In the end my criteria are: 1. Is it space friendly 2. Does it function how I want it to, ie, shade, fruit production, noise barrier 3. Will it look good in the future I know both varieties to work well in a tight space according to what iv'e read. Reed being upright and less spreading in nature and Pinkerton being a semi dwarf, but I just cant bring myself to put 5 different varieties into one hole, it's overkill haha. | About the Author Luke :) 5089 17th September 2018 4:38am #UserID: 14508 Posts: 24 View All Luke :)'s Edible Fruit Trees |
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Luke :) says... Hey Mark, nice to finally chat, i enjoy reading your forum contributions 👍 I swear H ₂O ₂ is a God send! I was surprised when my Pinkerton was performing the least well out of all my varieties since the description on Daleys says "e;e;e;e;Pinkerton is shown to have some cold tolerance"e;e;e;e;, I took this to mean it does well in Adelaide. My Pinkerton started showing symptoms of decline towards the end of it's first winter. Just a thought, why would both our Pinkerton's suffer root rot when all the varieties, I presume, you and I have are grafted to Reed!! Is it a coincidence?!? Well, I will say Pinkerton does have cold tolerance, but under-performs in cold climates due to being more susceptible to root rot. But why, when Pinkerton is grafted to Reed? Maybe Reed wont do well in Adelaide or Melbourne either? But then by that standard all the varieties grafted to Reed should also show signs of root rot? | About the Author Luke :) 5089 17th September 2018 5:28am #UserID: 14508 Posts: 24 View All Luke :)'s Edible Fruit Trees |
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Markmelb says... Luke- in individuals possibly - attend to underperforming Avos with fungicides immediately and maintain with Aliette WG monthly - Pinkerton seems to grow gangly rather than compact - Lamb Hass Bacon & Secondo are more compact with more internodal growth - I have a Wurtz grafted with Ederanol going gangbusters at my community garden on a mound with branches draping the ground flowering profusely first time and protected by 50% shade cloth - its so green and should make everyong happy if it produces well - way better than my own. Also keen to know how you used the hydrogen peroxide & concentration? | About the Author Markmelb MOUNT WAVERLEY,3149,VIC 17th September 2018 8:17am #UserID: 7785 Posts: 1192 View All Markmelb's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author BerylAnne Moora 22nd September 2018 12:06pm #UserID: 19026 Posts: 1 View All BerylAnne's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Luke :) says... Hey Mark, well I think im going to wait till the Pinkerton recovers enough to do some top working to my other avocados. I dont need a Reed right now. For the Hydrogen Peroxide I used the standard 3% solution that you can buy from any supermarket, not the 20% agricultural solution. I used half a cup of H ₂O ₂ to about 3 and a half litres of water. and I'm sure I could have made it stronger as it is only a 3% solution to begin with. | About the Author Luke :) 5089 7th October 2018 8:42pm #UserID: 14508 Posts: 24 View All Luke :)'s Edible Fruit Trees |
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Luke :) says... Hi BerylAnne, If I could get a photo that would be good, but im betting it is just cold damage from winter. it is nothing to worry about, it is most likely cold damage and purely antithetical at this stage and poses no threat to the plant. Is the avocado putting out new spring growth?? Avocados loose there old leaves around this time of year in place of new spring growth of flowers and new shoots. | About the Author Luke :) 5089 7th October 2018 8:48pm #UserID: 14508 Posts: 24 View All Luke :)'s Edible Fruit Trees |
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newbie_j says... Hi everyone, I am wondering if anyone can help me figure out why my avocado (pot plant) has brown spots on its leaves. Many leaves have been chewed by a caterpillar, so I've taken care of that. Also a couple of the leaves have a white chalky-looking film on them. Thinking whether it's a salinity issue, fungus, root rot? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
| About the Author newbie_j Melbourne Vic 3rd August 2019 6:00pm #UserID: 20658 Posts: 2 View All newbie_j's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Amanda says... I am thinking it might be oedema actually? It is in a rather small pot for it's size - but it also appears to be growing well/vigorously - so it might be time to pot it up into a bigger container this spring and pop it somewhere nice and warm to recover. It is cold now and oedema can occur when the roots are taking up more water than the leaves can transpire and/or when in high humidity. How often are you watering it? Do you keep a dish under the pot or allow the water to drain off? Just be careful not to over water or overfeed at this time of the year. Others may have some different info/thoughts though. | About the Author Amanda LESCHENAULT,6233,WA 4th August 2019 3:20pm #UserID: 16828 Posts: 89 View All Amanda's Edible Fruit Trees |
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newbie_j says... Thank you Amanda! I am trying not to over-water it, as it is winter and it gets some rain. Yes, I normally keep a dish under the pot (not in photo) to allow the water to drain off. You're right, I have been thinking I need to repot it, as it is getting too big for the existing pot... so I will replant it and make sure it's not water-logged and hopefully it may recover. Thanks again for your suggestions. | About the Author newbie_j Melbourne Vic 7th August 2019 8:14am #UserID: 20658 Posts: 2 View All newbie_j's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Julie ROLEYSTONE,6111,WA 7th August 2019 7:41pm #UserID: 154 Posts: 1842 View All Julie's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Andrew82 says... My newly potted avo planted a week ago has this weird copper colour and now the leaves are starting to curl. What could be the problem. All my research has come up suggesting fertiliser burn. I did put some fert in when I ported would this be the problem. Any ideas what it could be. Thanks.
| About the Author Andrew82 Qld north Brisbane 8th August 2019 1:52pm #UserID: 20680 Posts: 1 View All Andrew82's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Ali Cunningham Uk 4th November 2019 3:18am #UserID: 21160 Posts: 1 View All Ali Cunningham's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Matt8888 says... I planted my tree about 1.5yrs ago, through the first summer it put on a huge amount of growth but the main trunk was not rigid - it was floppy to the point where the top of the tree bent over and is now permanently bent over. This year there is some growth particularly on the bottom part of the tree, again these branches seem floppy to the point where they run along the ground as they can’t support themselves. I’ve attached photos. Is this normal? (I’m a novice Gardner particularly with fruit trees - engadine, Sydney)
| About the Author Matt8888 Engadine 23rd December 2019 2:33pm #UserID: 18166 Posts: 2 View All Matt8888's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author davewastech WILLOUGHBY EAST,2068,NSW 24th December 2019 12:49pm #UserID: 7097 Posts: 115 View All davewastech's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Fruitylicious1 says... Hi Matt8888, Your avocado tree is deformed and should be pruned to correct misshapen form. First, cut all the low lying branches to give you access to the tree. Shorten long and weak wispy branches to half. Now get a sturdy ladder and cut off the deformed top. To easily maintain the tree and harvest the fruits limit the height to 8 feet. Don't worry about pruning avocados they easily and quickly grow back during the growing season. After the much needed haircut feed it and give it enough drink. | About the Author Fruitylicious1 TAMWORTH,2340,NSW 26th December 2019 8:28pm #UserID: 16885 Posts: 709 View All Fruitylicious1's Edible Fruit Trees |
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| About the Author Noobgardener Adelaide 5052 SA Australia 15th September 2021 6:10pm #UserID: 27726 Posts: 2 View All Noobgardener's Edible Fruit Trees |
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Original Post was last edited: 15th September 2021 6:12pm | ||||||||||
MelbFruit says... Hello, I think my Wurtz is experiencing the same! I purchased mine in the autumn, and it has done well through most of the winter outside in its pot. The leaves were turning brown and starting to droop a bit so I moved it into my greenhouse, but it has not perked up. I have only occasionally watered it since it has been in the greenhouse. The soil is moist (see picture), but I don't think it is too wet. I have watered it with Seasol (once or twice this winter), and have sprayed its leaves occasionally with micronutrients that I bought for my mandarines (which still have yellow leaves!!). The nutrients include sulfur, iron, magnesium, manganese, Zn, B, Cu, and Mo. From reading some prior posts, I wonder if it has to do with cold burn or salt in the soil. I did pull the tree into the greenhouse prior to the really cold temperatures this past month. Do you guys know what kind of water is in the inner West of Melbourne? Are avos also micronutrient spray?
| About the Author MelbFruit Newport,3015,VIC 24th August 2022 6:42pm #UserID: 27416 Posts: 42 View All MelbFruit's Edible Fruit Trees |
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